How the arcadia was created by the Uesugi family ?

Yonezawa castle1

By the end of the 19th century, British travel explorer Isabella Bird called the Okitama area including Yonezawa basin ‘the Arcadia of Asia’.

The place name of Okitama is not familiar to modern Japanese people, but it is based on the Ainu language.    It is a large granary area surrounded by deep mountains.  Perhaps she was impressed by the green land spreading in front of her after crossing a difficult mountain.    But that’s not all for the arcadia.

Okitama area had been dominated by the Uesugi family in the Edo period.  Everyone knows that a pioneer warlord of Uesugi family, Kenshin Uesugi, had ruled Niigata area, not Okitama area.    In addition, every year during the cherry blossom season, the Kawanakajima battle between Kenshin Uesugi and Shingen Takeda (actually done at Nagano) is reproduced in Yonezawa !

At the end of the Warring States period, Kenshin’s successor ruled Aizu under the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, but after Ieyasu Tokugawa took power, the Uesugi family, his hostile, had been moved to Okitama, which had a low rice production.  The Uesugi family and chief retainer Kanetsugu Noe did not dismiss their subordinates and developed cultivated land.

150 years later, Youzan Uesugi, the new lord appeared to save the financial difficulty by educating people instead of dismissing them and creating new industries that continue to this day.

“People belong to the nation, not the king.”

This is what he advocated and is exactly the idea of ​​modern democracy.  President Kennedy reportedly raised Youzan Uesugi, Yonezawa lord, as a Japanese politician he respected in his inaugural interview.   There are many Japanese who do not know this person, but the following sayings, rather than as a poem written by him, have been heard at least once .

“If you try to do, it can be achieved, if you don’t, it will never be achieved. Achieving nothing is due to one’s own intention to not try.”

What the two reformers had in common was that they value people and thought that people were property.   The arcadia may have been created by people who were carefully protected in this countryside.

By the way,  Kenshin,  a successor Kagekatu and Youzan in Uesugi family were not related by blood but adoption.  It’s cool !

As you walk along the Yonezawa Castle Ruins, the center of Arcadia, imagine the history of hardship.    If the time is right, you can see the Rakuchu Rakugai folding screen (National treasure) donated by Nobunaga Oda to Kenshin Uesugi.    Incidentally, Masamune Date has been moved to the northern part of Miyagi Prefecture from the Okitama area by the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi.  Therefore, at the battle of Sekigahara, Date was attacking Uesugi as an excuse to side with Tokugawa.    Places like each other.

 

Mountain Pass Station0
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High-speed railway suddenly appears at the lonely station building in deep mountains

Mountain Pass Station2

On the way to Namegawa Hot Spring in Yamagata prefecture, I have been searching mobile radio wave to book an event ticket that starts from that day through the Internet.   There was poor wave among deep mountains between Fukushima prefecture and Yamagata prefecture and I found a route sign of ‘Mountain Pass Station’ when the intensity of radio wave became strong.   I recognized that mobile phone access point should be located at this station because passengers getting on or off the station can use mobile phone.

The unmanned station, the name of which is ‘Mountain Pass’, looked like a storage yard surely as a measure against deep snow but nobody seemed to use it.  I heard the chirping of wild birds and felt the presence of wildlife outside the yard.   A place left behind in the real world.    Suddenly an alarm sounded in the yard and the Yamagata Shinkansen(High Speed Railway)* ran through the yard in a moment.    And it returned to the original silence.

I felt a mysterious feeling that I could slip through the world of reality and fantasy in an instant.

*)Shinkansen transit times and local timetables are displayed in unmanned stations. It is rare for this station to meet a local line. There are rarely any places where you can see the Shinkansen passing by at the height of the tracks up close.

Before the Shinkansen passed, the local line seemed to switch back here and climb the mountain pass.    The trace of the switchback can be seen from the photo below.    You can also find the railroad crossing when the Shinkansen passes !

Detour (Namegawa Hot Spring and Waterfall)

Please be careful when driving until you reach the hot spring.   About one hour from the retro hot spring, there is a large waterfall that runs down onto a monolith 80 meters high. The suspension bridge on the side of the inn has collapsed, so you need to wear boots and cross the river yourself.  I missed the chance due to no boots at that time, so photos in gallery are not Namegawa Waterfall.

 

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Hugging Gorge that means you cannot pass without really hugging people you pass by, true or not ?

Hugging valley8

I tried translating the name of this gorge into English without permission, so it became like this title.   So, please do not search seriously with this name.  Anyway in the old days, you couldn’t pass each other without hugging each other.
River Tamagawa flowing through this gorge is cobalt blue.   It flows from Tamagawa Hot Spring* around Mt.Hachimantai, but since the strongly acidic water contains aluminum as a basic ion, the light with a short wavelength is scattered by its particles and the surface of water appears blue.   For the same reason, the water in Lake Tazawa looks blue due to injection of water of River Tamagawa long ago.
If you go sightseeing near here, you will definitely go to the famous Kakunodate with old samurai residence, but as a countryside lover, you should definitely visit the gorge that makes you feel the traces of a volcano.

*)A hot spring that warms your body with geothermal heat while wearing clothes in a sulfur-rich crater is worth a try.  Simply lay a straw rug on the ground and lie on your back.  You can also enjoy a bathing style where you just put your head out of a box filled with steam.

Gallery (click photos)

Lake Tazawa which looks like a tropical beach is mysterious

blue gradation

It is uncertain that Lake Tazawa is the site of a caldera volcano.   However, the lake is surrounded by outer ring mountains at the same altitude, but the bottom of the lake is lower than the sea level.   It means that the bottom of the lake is the same or more deep from the surface of the lake to the height of outer ring mountains.   It is a mystery where the volcanic product of such a volume were accumulated, so it has not ever been confirmed that Lake Tazawa came from caldera volcano or not.

blue gradation and cloud
blue gradation and cloud

The lake is so acidic that few fish live in it by drawing in the strong acidic hot spring water artificially.  The moment the young girl realized her beauty, she realized that she would grow older.   The water of the fountain that she drank according to a message from God to keep her good looks turned her into a dragon, from which the name of Lake Tazawa came.   I was convinced by this legend when I looked at the lake that showed the mysterious blue gradation.

Panoramic view

A little break for lunch on the beach

Mt.Akita-Komagatake with rich alpine plants,  Moomin valley and bears that occasionally appear in the fog

Akita-Komagatake in clear

Horses and humans have a long history.   It is said that in early spring, a horse is seen in the shape of the remaining snow on the mountain and cultivation is started after the shape appears.   Therefore, there are many mountains in Japan with horses ‘Koma’ as their names.   Similarly, there are mountains all over Japan with Mt. Fuji as a part of the name, but all of them are called ‘the area name + Fuji’, which is similar to the shape of original Mt.Fuji.   However, ‘Komagatake’ has no originator, so each ‘Komagatake’ is an originator and the locals call it only ‘Komagatake’ without ‘the area name’.

Akita Komagatake is composed of two calderas, with a milky-white Nyuto hot spring in the north, a colorless Mizusawa hot spring in the west, and an emerald green Kunimi hot spring in the south.   It is a treasure trove of alpine plants because the airflow from the Sea of ​​Japan hits the mountains and clouds easily form.  Therefore, even if the lower world is sunny, fog will be applied around the top and the temperature will be quite low even in the midsummer.

There seems to be a Moomin valley in the flower field, but recently it was described on the website that there was a personal injury due to a bear.  It’s something I don’t want to encounter in the fog.  Certainly there was a metal rod that made a sound of a bear repellent, but I wondered how effective it was and gave up on going to Moomin Valley.

On the way down the mountain by shuttle bus

Lake Tazawa looks like a hand mirror.   I was convinced that it might be the remains of the caldera volcano.

Ohmagari Fireworks Festival including daytime fireworks like a volcanic eruption

Fireworks at night2

The fireworks powder used sulfur mined from the volcano.   In the Edo period, the production of gunpowder was banned, and the technology was handed over only in areas related to the Tokugawa shogunate government.  So, owning a volcanic area was of strategic importance.
Do you remember studying the flame reaction of metals in a junior high school science experiment?   The gorgeous color of fireworks is achieved by mixing a powder with a metal.   It comes from a metal that emits a single wavelength when an electron excited by explosive energy returns to its original state, producing a pure color.

like Rock Fes
like Rock Fes

The origin of fireworks is wolf smoke.   Fireworks are now enjoyed at night, but at the Ohmagari Fireworks Festival, you can also enjoy the daytime fireworks, that is, the colors and shapes of wolf smoke.

The Ohmagari Fireworks Festival was not just an event to enjoy fireworks, it was an examination committee that competed for the skills of fireworks masters.   The examiners were introduced on the public broadcast, but I didn’t know if it was work or play because they could see fireworks in the special seat.
The competition consists of three parts: a 30cm size concentric style fireworks ball, a freestyle of the same size, and creative fireworks that match the music.   A community FM station ‘HANABI’ was broadcasting the progress, but when listening to it on Internet radio via smartphone, there was too much time difference and it was difficult to listen to.   It will be also useful in the event of a disaster, so let’s buy one FM radio and bring it with you.

Fireworks at night1
Fireworks at night1

Late check-in at Mizusawa Hot Spring

I parked a car near Tazawako station to avoid strong congestion around Ohmagari, where I might have not gone out even from the parking space at Ohmagari until next morning! (It’s true).    A local line was used between Ohmagari and Tazawako.   For the countryside, it was a crowded train like Tokyo.

<Caution !>
Many people come to see fireworks on a day trip by bullet tour from remote areas such as Tokyo and Sendai.   After the fireworks, it is possible to leave the venue in the early morning and it seems that the arrival will be around noon.

The Ohmagari Fireworks Festival is held every four seasons, but the summer 2020 has been canceled due to the covid-19.

Goshogake Nature Park enjoying baby volcanos and sulfur gas?

Sulfur gas1

The surface of the rock is exposed in the area due to the emission of sulfur gas.   The valley pond is boiling.   Mud erupts from the bottom of the earth with steam, and there are mud pots everywhere in the shape of Baby Volcano.   It is a landscape that looks like a miniature of a volcano.

Sulfur gas3
Sulfur gas3

The origin of the name of ‘Goshogake’ is the idea of ​​reincarnation in Buddhism.   A young man who fell ill was recovered by a young pilgrimage daughter in this hot spring resort, and they got married.   However, due to the news of the wind, his wife, who had left home with children, visited and the young daughter prayed for their happiness and poured herself into the boiling water.   The wife, who was struck by the chest, followed her also praying (‘gake’ literally)  being reborn (‘sho’ literally) after (‘go’ literally) the death.   It is a sad anecdote, but it is a story that conveys the utility and fear of a volcano at the same time.

There is a toilet at the entrance of the walk path, but there are metal cans and sticks in front of it, and it is written that you should strike it in advance to inform the bear.  But if the bear inside heard the sound and came out of the toilet, I was wondering what to do.   Please do not encounter bears.

Gallery (click photos)

Mt.Hachimantai trekking searching the peak of the flat mountain

Hachiman pond

I learned in high school that Hachimantai was a mountain with the shield of a medieval knight lying beside it.  Therefore, I remembered it as Aspite (shield) volcano, but recent volcanic studies have called it Konide volcano (stratovolcano) because of its formation process rather than its appearance.   The tourist road that crosses the summit was named Hachimantai Aspite Line, but it might be difficult for locals to accept the results of this research and it has not been renamed.

Sea of trees
Sea of trees

In any case, it is a gentle mountain, and the vast sea of ​​trees spreads below you, making it comfortable to drive.   It is also ideal for trekking because the road is not steep.   However, the only drawback is that there is no clear peak, so you cannot get a sense of accomplishment.   For that reason, a half-timbered observatory suddenly appears among the Todomatsu(pine) and bamboo forest, telling us that this is the peak!

peak of Mt.Hachimantai
peak of Mt.Hachimantai

There are ponds around the flat summit, but they became ponds after the steam explosion.   Among them is an emerald green ‘Dragon Eye’ that appears in the snow thaw for only two weeks at the end of May.   I want to see it even once.

Gallery (click photos)

Top Gun ! Blue impulse demonstration flight taking off from Matsushima Air Base

blue impulse
top gun12
top gun12

When you are lucky in sightseeing in Matsushima, you sometimes come across blue impulse flight training.   This is because there is an air base in Higashi-Matsushima town, which is adjacent to Matsushima.   Suddenly a roar comes from the sky.   However, Blue Impulse is busy on a business trip to events all over the country, and if you see it locally, you go to the air festival in August to be prepared for congestion.

Finding top gun talent is a daunting task.   No matter how hard you try, you will not be able to reach the entrance to the top gun without having the ability to be born.

F2
F2 Fighter

The fighter is also just as delicate.   It cannot take off and land even if a small piece of debris falls on the runway.   When the Matsushima Air Base was swallowed by the tsunami of the Great East Japan Earthquake, 18 fighters(F2) were swallowed along with it.   After the earthquake, they would have been better to take off before the tsunami and escape from the difficulties, outsider thought, but unless the fighter is prepared to take off and the runway is clear, it will not take off.  Then, the reason why scrambling is possible is that it is always idling.   What a delicate thing !
On the other hand, Blue Impulse was on a business trip to Kyushu Shinkansen opening event at that time, so they have escaped the tsunami.
Even so, the east-west main runway at Matsushima Air Base receives a strong crosswind, but is that okay for a delicate fighter?

Gallery (click photos)

Ohtakamori viewpoint of Matsushima at sunset

saigyo modoshi pine3

You can’t see the beauty of Matsushima sufficiently unless you look at it from a high place.
Near the Oku-Matsushima(Sagakei) sightseeing boarding place there was a signpost which indicated a 15-minute walk  to the Ohtakamori observatory (106 m above sea level).  This was ridiculous mountain climbing and hell especially in the summer season.  When I got to the observatory, I was out of breath and sweaty.  Matsushima Bay can be seen to the west from Otakamori, but unfortunately it was too early in the sunset.   Nobi district on the right hand view remains reddish wasteland due to the tsunami.

ohtakamori viewpoint
ohtakamori viewpoint

Ohtakamori Panoramic View

Saigyo Modoshino Matsu View

This observatory (122m above sea level) is a 20-minute walk from JR Matsushima Kaigan Station.   However, mainly coming to the famous tourist spots from that station, few people walk up to this point.   If you come, in the cherry blossom season, take a picture of small islands in Matsushima Bay that shines east and the cherry blossoms in the foreground in the afternoon.
After being sweaty due to climbing, how about taking a public bath at the hot spring below viewpoint!