Nagatoro, located a short distance downstream from the center of Chichibu, is famous for its boat trips down the rapids and is also renowned for its dense cherry blossoms. Incidentally, while boat trips down the river are great, I also recommend rafting in the middle of summer and jumping into the Arakawa River midway through. Now, even in areas with a high concentration of cherry blossoms, the cherry blossom areas are spread out over a wide area, so you’ll get tired of walking unless you narrow down your area based on information about when the blossoms are in full bloom.
I recommend the 2.5-kilometer-long row of cherry trees along Kita-Sakura(North Cherry Blossoms) Street, which starts from Nagatoro Station to the next station, Nogami. The tunnel of cherry blossoms stretches on and on, and when you try to take a picture of it, a car or motorcycle inevitably gets in the shot because it’s so long and unobstructed.
North cherry blossoms Street in Nagatoro (1)approach to Mt.Hoto
Heading west from Kagemori Station on the Chichibu Railway, you’ll find a series of temples along the line, each boasting magnificent weeping cherry trees. It’s a bit of a distance, but it’s a leisurely stroll along the country road, admiring the cherry blossoms planted here and there along the way. Incidentally, the Arakawa River, which flows through downtown Tokyo, runs along the railway line. Here, it carves a deep gorge.
Urayamaguchi Station (2)
Urayamaguchi Station (1)
Shofukuji Temple
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (1)
First, I started walking from Bushu-Hino Station. Although there were no signs, I climbed up beside a farmhouse and suddenly Shofuku-ji Temple appeared. The sight of the cherry blossoms adorning the temple gate, which you can see when you look up the stairs, is truly breathtaking. This spot is on a slight hill, so you can see the Chichibu Basin beyond the curtain of weeping cherry blossoms in front of you, with cherry blossoms visible everywhere. You can also see the Chichibu Railway, and you’ll probably even see the steam locomotives moving along, spewing black smoke.
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (3)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (7)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (8)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (9)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (10)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (4)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (6)
weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (5)
Seiunj Temple and Wakajishi Shrine
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (11)
Next, we head towards the weeping cherry tree forest at Seiunji Temple, which is often seen on posters. Along the way, we pass a shrine with a sumo wrestling ring. The weeping cherry trees at Seiunji Temple are simply breathtaking. If you climb the stairs of the adjacent Wakajishi Shrine and look down from above, you can enjoy an even more spectacular view of the weeping cherry forest. Incidentally, the protective statue at the entrance of this shrine is a wolf, not a guardian lion. Apparently, they light up the shrine at night during the cherry blossom festival, and the fact that there are stalls selling farming tools gives it a very rural festival feel.
weeping cherry blossoms (1)field of sumo wrestling
weeping cherry blossoms (2)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (1)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (3)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (4)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (5)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (6)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (7)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (8)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (9)Wolves instead of guardian lions
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (10)
weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (12)
source: Chichibumovies
Chosenji Temple
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (7)
Finally, we visit Chōsenji Temple, famous for the revival of a giant weeping cherry tree that had once declined in vitality. Weeping cherry trees bloom earlier than Somei Yoshino cherry trees, so the giant white weeping cherry tree here has already shed its blossoms, but the temple grounds are beautifully maintained. Furthermore, this temple is worth visiting this year because it is unveiling its hidden Buddha statue for the Year of the Horse. However, since the unveiling is taking place in the back of the temple hall, which is quite dark, it is very difficult to see the face of the Kannon statue, making it almost as if it were not unveiled at all.
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (9)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (1)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (2)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (3)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (4)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (5)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (6)
weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (8)
From here, I headed towards Urayamaguchi Station, surrounded by cherry blossoms, and returned to my accommodation.
Along the Chichibu Railway line, especially around the stations, weeping cherry trees are densely packed. What’s more, they’re not lined up in an orderly fashion, but rather grow naturally, which is what makes them so appealing. These photos, featuring cherry blossoms alongside a quaint old train station, are a classic example of cherry blossom photography.
Urayamaguchi Station (3)
Urayamaguchi Station (6)
Urayamaguchi Station (7)
Moreover, since the steam locomotive runs on weekends from spring to autumn, it would be a shame not to take photos of the steam locomotive and cherry blossoms together. However, securing a good spot is crucial for taking these kinds of photos. But, Chichibu isn’t overly touristy, so even photography enthusiasts are generally calm, and finding a good spot is still a peaceful affair.
Bushu Hino Station (4)SL fans
Bushu Hino Station (2)
Bushu Hino Station (5)
Bushu Hino Station (6)
A train whistle echoes in the distance, letting us know it’s getting closer. Soon, the hissing sound of steam can be heard traveling along the tracks. If you choose a location with a slope, you can capture the sight of black smoke billowing around cherry blossoms. The steam locomotive seems to approach slowly, but once it’s in front of you, it suddenly speeds past.
Bushu Hino Station (9)
Bushu Hino Station (7)
Bushu Hino Station (8)
Bushu Hino Station (3)
Bushu Hino Station (1)
My usual favorite photo spot is around Bushu-Hino Station. There’s a small level crossing without barriers, and an automated voice warns you “Dangerous!” if you try to cross it, but people who don’t know about the automated voice system are startled by the voice and almost trip, so it’s hard to tell which is more dangerous.
Soba restaurant (1)
Soba restaurant (2)
Soba restaurant (3)
If you walk about 20 minutes uphill from this railroad crossing, you’ll find a popular soba restaurant that only serves 49 bowls a day. The owner apparently checks the quality of the soba for one bowl each day, but you can’t help but think, why not just make 51 bowls? A score of 80 points was posted inside the restaurant at that day. It was indeed delicious. Soba noodles are a living thing, so eat them all first before starting on the side dishes. Also, since it’s a mountain trail, don’t forget your bear bell. You have to risk your life to eat delicious food.
The area along the Tadami Line is one of the heaviest snowfall regions in Japan, and the snow is wet with a lot of moisture, so weak buildings will collapse. Therefore, in this region, ladders are already in place to allow people to climb onto the roofs and remove the large amounts of snow that have accumulated. It’s definitely not for Santa Claus. Also, the foundations of the houses are about the height of one story.
In this environment, the Meguro Residence, a thatched-roof house built over 200 years ago, still stands. Its thatched roof is more than twice as thick as a typical thatched roof, and a considerable number of thick pillars are installed inside to withstand heavy snowfall. The descendants of the Meguro family still exist today. At the time, they were positioned between the ruling magistrates and the village headmen who managed the farmers. They were known as “warimoto shoya” (super village headmen) and negotiated with the magistrates regarding the allocation of land tax, and were granted the right to have surnames and carry swords, effectively acting as the family in charge of local administration.
meguro house buried in snow
meguro house (2)Thick thatched roof
meguro house (3)
Even today, there is a large hearth in the center of the house where firewood is burning. Above the hearth hangs a large, flat structure called a “hidana,” which prevents sparks from flying and igniting the thatched roof. In case of fire, the chains hanging from it can be cut to cover the hearth. The phrase “staying awake all night” is often used, and it originates from the practice of servants watching over the hearth fire and protecting against thieves. Apparently, dozens of servants lived and worked in this house at the time.
meguro house (4)
meguro house (5)fire shelf
meguro house (8)
It’s impossible to imagine what it was like back then without listening to the guide’s explanation. I heard many interesting stories, such as how there are three Shinto altars, one of which is modeled after the main hall of Ise Grand Shrine; how, because people always pass through the same threshold as part of proper etiquette, the wood has become warped in that area due to the friction of their kimonos; and how, after the end of the samurai era, they built a power plant.
meguro house (9)
meguro house (6)
meguro house (7)
meguro house (10)
meguro house (11)
Detour(Sake Brewery)
sake brewery (4)Natural ice storage(left)
There’s a sake brewery that every visitor to the Meguro residence must stop by. It’s Tamagawa Brewery, which inherited the sake brewing license previously held by the Meguro family. They cover heavy winter snow with a special sheet to protect it from melting and age their sake at low temperatures throughout the year. After a quick tour of the brewery, I head straight for the tasting of the 10 different types of sake they offer.
sake brewery (1)
sake brewery (2)
sake brewery (3)
Detour(Tadami Railway)
tadami line in snow (15)
The Tadami Line, which connects Uonuma and Aizu, is famous for offering scenic views of remote areas from its train windows, but you can enjoy the scenery even just up to Echigo-Suhara Station, where the Meguro Residence is located. We crossed several rivers, and the river water was a deep blue, like the color of melted glaciers. While Echigo-Suhara Station has a very atmospheric exterior, be aware that it is not heated in the middle of winter.
He’s being promoted as Japan’s Michelangelo, but when someone suddenly mentions Michelangelo, it doesn’t immediately ring a bell. He is Ishikawa Uncho. When you search for Michelangelo’s representative works, the results are his sculpture of David, the Sistine Chapel’s Creation ceiling fresco, and the Last Judgment fresco. While the 3D carvings on the transoms, carved from both sides, and the carvings covering the entire ceiling of the memorial hall certainly bear some resemblance to Michelangelo’s masterpieces, the more precise depictions evoke Ito Jakuchu, and the splashing waves suggest an homage to Katsushika Hokusai.
In the central part of the temple’s main hall, a seductive celestial maiden playing a musical instrument is carved into the transom. However, on the other side of the transom, which is only visible to the head priest, the naked back of the celestial maiden is carved. You won’t find a temple like this anywhere else in Japan. The transoms also feature carvings depicting stories and peacocks that devour the poisons of the world. It would be fun to attend a boring Buddhist memorial service at a temple like this.
Beside the few steps leading up to the memorial hall stand Nioh statues that resemble David, but whose faces are undeniably anime-like. And once you reach the top of the stairs, you are so overwhelmed by the gigantic sculptures covering the entire ceiling, which seem within reach, that you don’t even have time to look at the memorial tablets.
Ishikawa Uncho from chity brochure(3)
YoshidayThe scene depicts Zen Master Dogen, nearly attacked by a tiger, summoning a dragon with a thrown stick (this part somehow reminds me of Pokémon), with an eagle observing the scene, carp swimming upstream against a waterfall, and small birds flapping their wings on the cliff face. However, various other animals are scattered among the sculptures, and the level of detail is so exquisite that you’ll want to lie down in the memorial hall and examine it closely. You shouldn’t actually lie down on it.
Ishikawa Uncho from chity brochure(2)
There is also another sculpture, though uncolored, depicting a figure copying scriptures at a long table, but incorporating perspective. Furthermore, the front of the memorial hall building is adorned with intricate carvings. I was able to photograph these, but photography is prohibited inside. For more details, please purchase the photo book. Incidentally, the interior photos in this blog are from the tourist association’s brochure.
saifuku temple (1)
saifuku temple (3)
saifuku temple (4)
saifuku temple (5)
saifuku temple (6)
saifuku temple (2)
Detour
Yoshidaya’s cream puffs
Yoshidaya‘s “Cookie Choux” is popular for its freshly baked, crispy pastry and smooth, light custard cream filling. In addition to Western-style sweets, they also have a wide selection of Japanese sweets. Yoshidaya is located in the shopping street just before crossing the Uonogawa River, on the way from Echigo-Horinouchi Station to Eirinji Temple.
The main gate of Fukoji Temple is said to be a replica of the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko Toshogu Shrine, and was commissioned by the temple’s parishioners through donations, so they must have been very wealthy at the time. Moreover, it was built to withstand heavy snowfall of up to 3 meters. Therefore, many support beams are placed at the eaves to withstand the weight of the snow.
fukou temple (1)
fukou temple (2)
More famous here is the Bishamondo Naked Pushing Festival held in early March. When I visited, it was just two days before the festival, and preparations were in full swing. The young men were in the process of carrying a large candle weighing 50 kg. During the festival, they move around carrying the candle, so they are covered in hot wax.
fukou temple (3)
fukou temple (4)
fukou temple (5)
big candles
fukou temple
Bishamondo Temple was built by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, who pacified Tohoku during the Heian period, to pray for victory and a bountiful harvest. In the past, the statue of Bishamonten was only unveiled during the New Year’s visit, and the festival originated from people pushing and shoving to get to the temple as quickly as possible. However, nowadays, one can’t help but think that there’s no need to strip naked, perform water rituals, and then push and shove each other naked inside a temple. In the Tohoku region, winter naked festivals are still held at temples, shrine and others in various places, and usually the main event is a scramble to grab the first good fortune of the new year. However, here it’s simply a matter of pushing and shoving, so unless you participate, you really won’t understand how everyone gets into a trance-like state. Despite attracting many visitors in the midst of a snowstorm exceeding 3 meters, it might be wiser to watch the live stream on YouTube.
Source: @bisyamondo
Detour
A bronze statue of Prime Minister Kakuei Tanaka, who hails from this region, stands proudly in front of east side of Urasa Station. The fact that it has a snow-sheltering roof above it is typical of a snowy region. Just like Fukoji Temple, on the west side of the station there is Ezumiya, which makes bento boxes to order. Even though they are bento boxes, the rice is from Uonuma, so it’s delicious.
These are the remains of a radio facility that was built 27 years after Marconi discovered wireless telegraphy in 1895, but from the outside it looks like a concrete chimney. That’s because the towers are arranged in an equilateral triangle with sides of 300 meters, with wires connecting the tips and transmitting radio waves toward the horizon, so if there were no antenna wires, they would look like three chimneys no matter how you look at them.
Radio Tower (3)
The tower was made by arranging rectangular boards to create the outer frame, then pouring concrete into it. This process was repeated many times to gradually increase the height, and traces of this can be seen, demonstrating the massive work that went into building the 136-meter tower. You can see the steel beams that support the tower from inside, and it is said that after the facility closed, local children climbed to the top of the tower as a test of courage. Once inside the tower, try clapping your hands. The echo is incredible, and the sound echoes back and forth like the roaring of a dragon, a sound that can be heard in the temple halls of Kyoto.
Radio Tower (2)inside
It is believed that this radio equipment was used to transmit the “Niitakayamanobore“(literally “climb up Mt.Nitaka”) radio command to the fleet at sea, signaling the start of the Pacific War. The radio waves used were long waves, which were believed to have reached long distances at the time, and therefore required a 300-meter long transmitting antenna wire. Naturally, since it is a long wave, it requires a huge amount of power, so a huge space where the equipment for this purpose was likely installed remains in the middle of the three pylons. The feeling of ruins is incredible.
Radio Tower (4)
Radio Tower (5)
Radio Tower (6)
Radio Tower (7)
Radio Tower (8)
Please note that although a volunteer ladys are at the reception desk, it is only open until 4pm. A group of patrons of the Saga Shinkin Bank arrived after 4pm in three large buses and forced their way in, which was unfortunate for the receptionists. Admission is free, so please be mindful of your manners. By the way, near the reception desk they were selling Saikai mikan mandarins for 200 yen per bag. Nagasaki is actually a mandarin orange producing region, so you should definitely buy some.
Detour
A small entrance to the huge Omura Bay is located near Hario, and two beautiful Saikai Bridges connect the mouth of the bay. There are several viewpoints, but the one I highly recommend is Saikai no Oka(Hill of Saikai). This is a great viewpoint where you can see the three radio towers of Hario together, and if you shift your viewpoint to the right you can see the two Saikai Bridges.
Radio Tower (12)
Radio Tower (14)old and new Saikai bridges
As it is a small bay mouth of Omura Bay, you can see whirlpools depending on the time of day. Please check the spring tide timesbeforehand. Hill of Saikai is quite difficult to reach even with a navigation system, and if you lose sight of it, you will be taken to a completely unexpected place, so don’t just rely on your navigation system; try to find the location of the Shin-Saikai Bridge viaduct by sight.
Radio Tower (15)A small whirlpool is visible
One more thing, the Saikai Pearl Line that goes through the Shin-Saikai Bridge has a toll of 100 yen for the downhill and 200 yen for the uphill, and you can’t use ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) so you have to pay in cash only, so be sure to have some coins ready. It’s quite surprising in this day and age.
Hill of Saikai
Finally, I would have loved to visit Mukyudo if I had had the time. There are remains of a school built inside an air raid shelter by students at the end of the Pacific War, digging into the bedrock. This is also free.
We headed towards the Tenkaiho observation deck, passing through the somewhat congested Sasebo city and glancing sideways at the military base and shipyard. On the way, we were swayed left and right up and down the steep slope of a small hill twice, and just when we had lost track of our position, we arrived at the observation deck. This is the location where the opening sunset scene of the movie The Last Samuraiwas filmed (although to be precise it was at another observation deck nearby). There is a fairly large free parking lot, but it was full.
The cosmos flowers were in full bloom next to the observation deck, and it seemed the car with Nagasaki license plates had come to see them. Many groups from elderly care facilities were taking photos here and there with the cosmos flowers in the background, rather than heading to the observation deck. I was worried about whether these elderly people got carsick, and if they didn’t feel carsick, I thought that would be a problem in itself.
view point Tenkaiho (1)
view point Tenkaiho (6)
view point Tenkaiho (7)
The observation deck is at the top of a tower reached by climbing a flight of stairs, and from there you can see the chain of small islands of “Tsukumo-jima” to the west and the cranes of Sasebo Port to the east. The view from here on this day was like a diorama that seemed unreal, with calm waves and a tranquil world stretching to the horizon. One place that should not be forgotten when looking at the scenery of a chain of small islands is Matsushima in the Tohoku region. The view from Otakamoriyama overlooks the Pacific Ocean. During the Great East Japan Earthquake, the islands of Matsushima acted as breakwaters, reducing tsunami damage to coastal towns.
The bridge that connects Kyushu to Hirado Island looks just like the Golden Bridge. Missionaries came to Hirado Port in an earlier era than Nagasaki, and carried out Christianity and trade with the Western countries. Furthermore, after Hideyoshi‘s ban on Christianity, this was the place where missionaries who had been scattered around the country gathered to discuss their future. The area further inland from Hirado, facing the East China Sea, later became a place for hidden Christians.
Hirado city (28)The Golden Bridge to Hirado Island
The Matsuura clan has ruled this area for a long time, bringing prosperity through trade and passing on its culture. They also created a creative confectionery called “Hyakuka no Kashi” (Confectionery of a Hundred Flowers), using the abundant sugar imported into the area, which is essential for the tea ceremony. Some of these confectioneries have been restored and are available as souvenirs. Today, it gives the impression of being a peaceful town on a bay, but at the time, up-and-coming merchants and intellectuals must have roamed the streets alongside the Nanban people. When you think about it, this remote corner of Japan was a gateway to the outside world due to its easy access, and was actually at the forefront of culture.
Hirado city (28) b
Hirado city (5)
Hirado city (3)holland bridge
The town of Hirado has a number of small slopes surrounding the inlet, with a view of the castle visible at the end of the inlet, and today the serene port town can be enjoyed from various angles. One of them is called the road where you can see the temple and church together. It has become a popular tourist spot because you can see the temple and church together through the camera viewfinder, but only those who have been there know that this is the middle of an incredibly long stone staircase. There is not a single line about this in the guidebooks. I definitely recommend visiting while you’re still in good health.
Hirado city (1)
Hirado city (6)
Hirado city (7)A slope with a view of the temple and church
Hirado city (9)
Hirado city (8)
Hirado city (10)Xavier Memorial Church
Hirado city (25)
Hirado city (26)
Hirado city (28) (a)A fence to prevent foreigners from being seen by Japanese people
Hirado city (27)dutch trading post
You can easily stroll around in about an hour, but if you stop by the Matsuura Historical Museum, which is packed with things to see, you won’t have enough time. The museum itself was the feudal lord’s mansion, so the building itself is magnificent to begin with, but because it was the Matsuura clan that ruled this area for a long time, treasures from past lords are on display everywhere, and all of them are genuine, not replicas.
Hirado city (11)
Hirado city (12)
Hirado city (13)Matsuura Historical Museum
Hirado city (14)
Hirado city (15)Japanese Tea House
At the very least, I would like you to take a look at the map surveyed and drawn by Ino Tadataka and a passage from a sword-fighting book written by feudal lord Matsuura Seizan: “There are miraculous victories, but no miraculous losses.” Another thing worth seeing is the actual “Fumie,” a statue of Christ that was used in the Edo period to expose hidden Christians and make suspected Christians step on it. A true Christian would never step on God, but no matter how you look at it, the image looks like the devil Satan. Anyone could step on it.
Hirado city (16)
Hirado city (17)Survey map from the Edo period
Hirado city (18)surveying tools
Hirado city (19)
Hirado city (20)A red seal letter from Tokugawa Ieyasu
Hirado city (22)
Hirado city (23)
Hirado city (24)There are no mysterious losses
Hirado city (21)A painting of people being forced to trample in order to find hidden Christians
Last but not least, we would like you to eat your fill of seafood here, rather than at the Yobuko Morning Market. We recommend you try the thickness of the sashimi set meal, the change from plain rice to rice infused with flying fish broth, and the great value for money of the grilled turban shells. I really wanted to eat some fresh fried horse mackerel, but they didn’t have any in stock that day.
Hirado city (29) (a)Local seafood restaurant
Hirado city (29)Rice made with flying fish stock
Hirado city (30)
Hirado city (30)Turban shell
Hirado city (31)Turban shell
Hirado city (32)
Detour
Tabira Cathedral(4)
Tabira Church is a brick church designed and constructed by a Japanese person. Not only is it beautiful, but the majesty of the Gothic style of the front facade is speechless. Once inside, the stained glass appears to have been made overseas, but scenes from the life of Christ cover the entire wall, and I felt that I would never see such magnificent stained glass even overseas. To enter the site, you need to make a reservation online two days in advance, but it’s free. However, we ask that you make a donation by purchasing postcards or other items. It’s located just before crossing the Hirado Bridge.
The concentration of pottery production areas in this area, including Imari ware, Arita ware, and Hasami ware, is a product of Hideyoshi’s invasion of Korea, and began when potters who came from Korea settled there and discovered high-quality pottery stone. After this, the Chinese Civil War caused a decrease in porcelain exports from China, and Imari ware was fortunate enough to replace the demand in Europe. Furthermore, the trade route at the time, which ran from Southeast Asia through the Indian Ocean, was controlled by the Dutch East India Company, and Japan was fortunate enough to be open to trade with the Netherlands during the period of national isolation. It seems to me that these three miracles have made the ceramics industry thrive today.
pottery village Imari (1)
pottery village Imari (2)A bridge decorated with broken tea bowls
pottery village Imari (4)
pottery village Imari (5)
pottery village Imari (6)
pottery village Imari (7)
pottery village Imari (8)
pottery village Imari (9)
pottery village Imari (3)Remains of the checkpoint where potters were imprisoned
During the Edo period, the ceramics industry was under the control of the feudal domain, and talented people were gathered there, enriching the domain’s finances. Imari ware (Nabeshima ware) is said to have confined its potters to narrow mountainous areas and installed a checkpoint to prevent the outflow of its techniques.
Hasami ware, which is used for everyday use, was apparently launched as an independent brand from Arita ware after regulations for the labeling of origin were established, and it has maintained a strong position as a product for everyday use. What originally prompted me to visit the Hasami ware workshop in Nakaoyama was the workshop’s name (reverse seal) engraved on the back of the rice bowls I use every day. Hasami ware is made for everyday use, so large quantities are fired at once, and so there are still traces of climbing kilns built along the mountain slopes. From the walking path around these kilns, you can see the many chimneys of the kilns, which is quite picturesque, but there are quite a few ups and downs, so we recommend taking a walk before shopping.
pottery village Hasami (6)
There were no foreign tourists at Nakaoyama, but there were many foreign visitors in the world-famous Okawauchi town of Imari. They hold pottery markets in different seasons, so it’s easier to stop by at those times and there are many bargains to be had. However, it can get very crowded. There is still a workshop in Okawauchi Town, but it is so small that most of the factories are located outside.
pottery village Hasami (1)
pottery village Hasami (2)
pottery village Hasami (3)Climbing kilns for mass production
pottery village Hasami (4)
pottery village Hasami (5)
pottery village Hasami (7)
pottery village Hasami (9)
pottery village Hasami (8)
The autumn pottery market was happening at the time, and there were a few stalls set up along the way. It has nothing to do with pottery, and I was caught by an older man from the Ureshino tea producing area in Saga, who gave me a lecture on how to brew tea. The key is to use a teapot with a deep tea strainer so that the tea leaves can move freely, and not to move the leaves inside once the hot water is poured in. To avoid bitterness, do not turn the teapot, and do not steep the tea for too long, in order to preserve its vibrant color. This certainly makes the tea flavor linger in your mouth for hours, but the amount of tea leaves that tea makers generously add is impossible to replicate at home.
Detour 1
When you think of kappa, you probably think of the Tono Monogatari(Story) from Iwate Prefecture or the trademark of Kyoto’s Kizakura Sake Brewery, which is famous for its commercials. However, Matsuura Ichi Brewery has had a connection with kappa for even longer than that. The reason is that a kappa mummy was discovered in the brewery. The real thing is enshrined here. We don’t know if it’s really a kappa, but we don’t know why it was kept in this storehouse. I think it’s better to leave it as a mystery without investigating.
Matsuuraichi Sake Brewery (3)Kappa Mummy
The aroma of the Junmai Ginjo had a gorgeous melon aroma, and I remembered that Matsuura City is a melon-producing region. Surprisingly, this brewery specializes in plum wine, made by soaking pickled plums in undiluted sake, not shochu. You’ll be surprised at how rich the flavor is, so be sure to give it a try.
Matsuuraichi Sake Brewery (1)
Matsuuraichi Sake Brewery (2)
Matsuuraichi Sake Brewery (4)
Detour 2
In this region, mountains often extend right up to the coastline, and many terraced rice paddies have been built along the mountain slopes for rice cultivation. In early spring, the terraced rice paddies are filled with water, and the way the sunlight hits them is truly magical. However, because each paddy is small, mechanization of the work is difficult, and with the aging population, farmland is being abandoned, making the remaining terraced rice paddy landscapes precious.
Rice terraces Oniki (2)
Rice terraces Oniki (1)
Rice terraces Oniki (3)
If you cross the hill of Nakao-yama, where many pottery workshops in Hasami are located, you can enjoy a panoramic view of terraced rice fields spread across a large slope. However, the roads through the rice fields are quite narrow, barely wide enough for even a small car to pass through.
Detour 3
While many pottery workshops are concentrated in the heart of Hasami town, Nishinohara has transformed a former workshop into a stylish hub. Even the meals are served on charming Hasami ware tableware.
