Daisetsu Kogen Swamp, a natural beauty more perfect than the gardens of Kyoto

midori-numa (3)

Before the shuttle bus group arrives, take a lecture at the Brown Bear Information Center about how to climb the mountain.    The important thing is to know what to do to avoid encountering a bear, and I have hardly ever thought about what to do in case I do come across one.    Even if you wear a bear bell, it will be drowned out by the sound of the river around the stream.    If you are a certain distance away from a bear you encounter, you will back away while looking into the bear’s eyes, and if you are attacked at close range, you will protect your neck with your hands under your backpack, but what would you do if your hands were bitten by bear?    All you can do is decide not to think about encountering such a thing.    The exit from the center is also on your way home, so make a donation or buy some goods from the center to show your appreciation for the safety efforts.

Now it’s time to tour the swamp.    One circuit clockwise takes 5 hours, but the second half is downhill so you will need some climbing equipment.   If you turn back at Kogen-numa(swamp) just before the deepest Sora-numa, you won’t need any mountaineering equipment and can return in 4 hours round trip.   If you look at the map, you can see that this is a place where the mountain collapsed and created swamps, but it is a fairly long mountain trail and should not be considered a hike.     It is better to at least wear mudguard spats on your foot.

(Source:  Excerpt from the Ministry of the Environment website)

Final descending time for each of the three major swamps is announced, and  instructors are always on standby there regardless of the weather.    I felt that it was hard work for the instructors to call out to every climber, but since they were standing all the time without even ringing a bear bell, so I thought that calling out to them was also a measure against bears. (I’m sorry.)    Early morning and evening are prime times for bears to be seen.

red demon will catch you
red demon will catch you

At this time of final descent, few people will associate it with the red demon of the Mt. Rokko traversal competition (Kobe City).    I once participated in a competition where I ran 48 km of Mt. Rokko from Suma to Takarazuka in one day.   A red demon will chase you from the last place, and at each checkpoint it will display how many minutes it will take to arrive, and if you are overtaken by this, you will be told that the race is over and you will not be able to complete the race.    Furthermore, when you finish the race, you will receive a small shield to prove your completion.    The next day, my body was in shambles.

Now, go back to the tour.    For the first hour, you walk through wetlands dotted with skunk cabbage that looks like it’s been devoured by bears,

If you’re lucky, you might be able to spot the brightly colored wild bird, the Ginzanmashiko,

And then you arrive at Takimi-numa.   There are many temples in Kyoto with wonderful gardens, but Takimi-numa surpasses them in its ultimate natural beauty.    The exquisite balance between the close-up view of the swamp and the distant view of the colorful autumn leaves arranged like a folding screen on the slope is out of this world.    You can enjoy it on both sunny and even rainy days.

Midori-numa, which appears next to Takimi-numa, has an open landscape and is one of swamps with final decending time set.    Each swamp has a completely different look.

After a while along the mountain trail, you will come to Ezo-numa.   It appears to be a swamp formed like a terraced rice field at the edge of a slope, but the end of the break in the trees in the middle seems to be a waterfall over there, and the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is nothing short of beautiful.

When you walk further, you will see the cliffs of Takanegahara and Shikibu-numa where the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is also  beautiful.

As you climb further, Daigaku-numa appears at the foot of the cliff.

The turning point, Kogen-numa, will be just around the corner.     If the weather is good, you can see Mt. Midoridake over there look like the mountain is wrapped in red sashes of autumn leaves.    Time is up here.    Before I knew it, the light rain had gotten heavier, so I turned back.

It took about 5 hours round trip as I went slowly.    After eating up some warm ramen at an inn in Daisetsu Kogen Onsen, I headed straight to New Chitose Airport.    There was no time to stop by to see the Sounkyo waterfall.    The road along the way is covered in terrain full of columnar joints.

 

ezo-numa (1)
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Ginsendai, a carpet of autumn leaves and pikas peeking out from the rocks

ginsendai 3

First, write your name in the climbing record book at the management office at the entrance to the mountain trail.     It takes about 15 minutes to reach the ridgeline, so you just keep going up the mountain trail with no views until then. 

Once you reach the ridgeline, there are a series of spectacular views.    A brocade of autumn leaves spreads across the huge flat slope.

Don’t be satisfied here, let’s at least go to Daiichi Hanazono (First Flower Garden).    It’s less than an hour from the parking lot.   The view of the sea of ​​trees below is amazing from here, and you’ll want to dive with your whole body.

A little further ahead is a rocky area where pikas live.    It is a small animal of the lagomorph family that survived the Ice Age and physically resembles a mouse.   Listen carefully and look in the direction of the sound.    They move quickly, and the bottom of the rocky area is a passage for pikas, so you can see their faces from various angles.    This is also cute.     There is a regular photographer with a telephoto lens, so it’s a good idea to ask him/her about various things.

 

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Are dolphins messengers of God?

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From the Amakusa Islands, Mount Unzen on the Shimabara Peninsula can be seen nearby, and many wild dolphins live here where the Ariake Sea exits into the East China Sea.    In any case, as soon as we set out on our fishing boat, the dolphins started chasing us as if they were enjoying the competition.   Several of them work together to blow the tide and pass under the bottom of the ship.  It’s like a messenger of peace.

Although it is advertised as a sightseeing boat for viewing dolphins, the hull is essentially a fishing boat.    The price includes lunch.     I was wondering to myself what would happen if I ate it, got on board, and got seasick.

A detour

As you head north along the west coast of the island from Sakitsu Church, you will see “Myoken-ura”, a sea cliff shaped like an elephant, “Tits Rock”, which is difficult to take photos with women, and a lighthouse floating off the coast that looks like “the Statue of Liberty”.   In Amakusa City, you can buy Amakusa pottery “Kohiki” that was introduced from Korea, and Gion Bridge, which is a stone bridge but has multiple girders lined up instead of arches, is a must-see.”

Another detour

At the tip of the Misumi Peninsula, where the bridge to the Amakusa Islands crosses, there is a stone wharf called Misumi Nishi Port that remains from the Meiji period, and has been designated as a World Cultural Heritage Site.    If you have time, it’s a place where you can relax.

 

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Hidden Christians in the Amakusa Islands are not hidden

sakitsu church1

The colonial policy hidden behind the sale of Christian missionary work and trade as a set terrified the Edo shogunate, and with the isolation of the country, Christians fell prey to the banning policy.     Shortly after the establishment of the shogunate, there was a large-scale battle to suppress Christianity (the Shimabara Rebellion), and the victorious shogunate suffered heavy losses, and many Christian farmers in the region died or were dispersed.     As a result, they were unable to harvest any crops at all.    Even so, there were still many Christians remaining in Amakusa and Shimabara.     It is said that 90% of the people in the town of Sakitsu were Christians, and since they all survived as they were, it seems that even if they were hidden Christians, it was an open secret.

The villagers who were accused of being Christians claimed to believe in a local deity inherited from their ancestors, while Shogunate officials, fearing a repeat of the Shimabara Rebellion that had endangered the Shogunate and the subsequent sharp decline in the agricultural population, denied the truth and did not disclose it  publicly.

ohetenshudo2
ohe-tenshudo

Perhaps it was wisdom that determined that the  villagers had a “misunderstanding of the sect” (they did not believe in Christianity, but that he believed in the wrong religion without realizing it was a mistake) and did not certify them as Christians.    I am impressed that there were officials with such good sense at that time.    There are many churches in the Amakusa Islands.    Many believers still maintain their faith.

Sakitsu downtown is a part of World Heritage “Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region”, although not in the Nagasaki Region.

On the way to the Amakusa islands

go to amakusa islands6 Mt.Unzen
Mt.Unzen on the way to Amakusa islands

You can reach the Amakusa Islands by crossing a number of beautiful bridges from the Misumi Peninsula.    On the way, you can clearly see the Shimabara Peninsula and Mt. Unzen across the Ariake Sea.    However, driving while looking away is prohibited.

Cave hot spring inn Yurakutei (Yumigahama beach in Ohyano island)

Guests are welcomed by writing their names on the sake jar at the entrance of the inn.    The owner has dug a cave by hand and you can enjoy hot springs inside it.    Anyway, for dinner there will be more fish dishes caught in the Ariake Sea than you can finish.

 

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Arched stone bridge created by God

stone bridge futamatabashi1

Each arched stone bridge in Kumamoto prefecture exists in exquisite balance with the weight of the thousands of stones that make up it, and the shape is beautiful.    It is said that there are approximately 320 existing stone bridges in Kumamoto, but why are there so many stone bridges in Kumamoto?    Many factors seem to have contributed to this, including the presence of easy-to-work welded tuff formed by the Aso pyroclastic flow nearby, the presence of a technical group of masons, and the fact that people who learned Western techniques in Nagasaki moved there.   There is also a story that the designer of stone bridge was even threatened with his life by other clans due to his high technical skills.    This stone bridge is the result of a divine work.    The steps involved creating an arch-shaped wooden frame according to the blueprint, fitting stones into it from above, and finally removing the wooden frame.

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refer to kintai bridge

Around the same time, a huge wooden arch bridge was built in Iwakuni. This is Kintaikyo Bridge.

stone bridge tsujyunkyo2 Anna and the Beast
stone bridge tsujyunkyo behind “Anna and the Beast”

Anyway, the Midori River basin in southern Kumamoto Prefecture is full of stone bridges.  Some are stone bridges for people to cross valleys, but many are also used to carry waterways to irrigate higher ground.    A typical example is the Tsujun Bridge, but for some reason there is an object depicting “Beauty(Anna) and the Beast” in front of it.   Let’s visit your favorite stone bridge.    Depending on the time of day at Futamata bridge, light from the arch opening and light reflected on the river surface overlaps to form a heart shape.

stone bridge futamatabashi2
stone bridge futamata

Furthermore, in order to distribute the precious water carried by stone bridges to the fields, it is necessary to distribute the water equally in proportion to the cultivated area.   A mechanism for this purpose is a circular water diversion system, in which water rises from the center of the circle using a U-shaped pipe, spills into partitions set up along the circumference in proportion to the cultivated area, and is distributed in various directions.    You can see places where this device is still in use today.   You might read the same story at the travel note “Akita in winter”.  Forthermore, there is one in the metropolitan area as well as in Mizonokuchi in Kawasaki City.

A detour

Mizutama (Polka dots) cafe, a cafe tucked away on top of a mountain.    A good place to relax and do nothing.    Aso can also be seen in the distance.

It’s difficult to get here. Don’t overlook the small landmarks at junctions on narrow roads.   It seems that reservations are now required recently.

Another detour

Yuen railway octagon tunnel
Yuen railway octagon tunnel

At first glance it looks like an octagonal tunnel, but numerous so-called nut-like shapes are lined up along the cliff.    Although it is the remains of a former railroad (Yuen railway), it seems to be a preventative measure against landslides.    There seems to be a demonic realm ahead, but at the end of the tunnel is a tranquil landscape.

Yuen railway after tunnel
Yuen railway after tunnel

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Takachiho Gorge, the abode of the gods

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takachiho canyon4 change directions of columnar joints
takachiho  gorge changing directions of columnar joints

The last major eruption of Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago was so large that volcanic ash fell over the entire Japanese archipelago.    That is why Aso still remains a beautiful caldera topography on that scale.     Pyroclastic flows covered the ground near Mt. Aso, and columnar joints created by the contraction of rocks due to the heat can be seen everywhere.    Takachiho Gorge, which is surprisingly close to Aso, has columnar joints that spread throughout the valley, and it is thought that it has been connected to mythology because it is a structure that does not seem to belong to this world.

When Japan was about to enter high economic growth, Takachiho Gorge, like the Nichinan Coast of Miyazaki Prefecture, was famous as a honeymoon destination.    Here I would like to talk about the place named Takachiho, which has been a question for some time.    Takachiho, as the Japanese character suggests, refers to rice cultivation in the highlands, but according to Japan’s oldest history book, the Kojiki, it also means the place where the gods descended to earth.    This is the so-called “the descent to earth of the grandson of the sun goddess.”    However, it seems that the question of whether the god descended first, Takachiho Gorge near Aso or Takachiho-mine (peak of mountain) in the Kirishima volcanic belt, is still unresolved.     It’s originally a myth, so I guess it’s not one or the other.    It’s just like Yamataikoku is undecided whether it’s Kinki or Kyushu (but the existance of this old imperial court  is a historical fact).    In any case, the magnificent scenery of nature will make you feel the presence of God.     It may be the work of an old travel agency to attract tourists to Miyazaki Prefecture, which has inconvenient transportation (sorry).

However, as a real tourist destination, the sounds of rowing boats sailing through Takachiho Gorge and their collisions echoing within the canyon, which may be the voice of God grumbling.    I wonder why young couples jump on rowboats right away.     I am tempted to say that they should be satisfied with sailing at Chidorigafuchi or Shakujii Park in Tokyo.

Ama no Iwato Shrine: Riverbed of Ama no Yasukawara

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ama no iwato shrine entrance

A famous myth that the older sister’s god (God of the Sun), angry at her younger brother’s violent behavior, closed the rock door and shut herself in a cave, causing the world to become pitch black, and the gods gathered together to deliberate in order to open the rock door.    However, there is Ama no Iwato Shrine at the location of this rock door (you must apply for a prayer to see the rock door in front of you.), and Ama no Yasukawara Cave (this is free.) is located at the place where the council held the meeting.    It’s natural that the authenticity is questionable, but first of all, even in the world of gods, the younger brother should apologize to the older sister, and the gods are the ones who cannot resolve such matters without deliberating.    Furthermore, Takachiho is supposed to be the place where this sister’s grandchild landed on earth for the first time among the gods, but isn’t it strange that the rock door exists in this world?

When I was thinking about this, I couldn’t concentrate on sightseeing at all, and all I remember was the appearance of human faces on the surface of the trees on the left and right as I headed towards Ama no Iwato Shrine.

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A ray of light in the pouring rain in Aso

aso horse grazing

When traveling to enjoy the scenery, the weather is crucial.    The scenery shines with the reflection of light, and the wind with just the right amount of humidity makes you feel refreshed.    The sun is great!    But this time, it’s the complete opposite.    The rain was pouring down so hard that I couldn’t even step out of the car in Kusasenri, so I turned on the heater inside the car max to stay warm.

aso shelter
aso shelter

Still, the eruption alert level for Mt. Aso is at its lowest level, so this is a great opportunity to get up close.    As we braved the wind and rain, a shelter covered with thick concrete suddenly appeared in front of us.   I am reminded of the recent incident on Mt. Ontake in Kiso where climbers were caught in volcanic bombs.   Then, for a moment, an emerald blue volcanic lake could be seen through the gap between the clouds and volcanic smoke.    The weather was terrible, but it was an unforgettable sight, even though it was only for a short time.

After lunch at an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town, I went to Daikanbo, which has an observation deck for Aso mountain range, without high expectations.    Although the clouds were not clear, I could see the Aso mountain range, which has been compared to the reclining statue of Buddha, and the somma with deep valleys surrounding it.    It’s not all that the weather is bad.    It seemed like a ray of light was shining.

Detour (an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town)

Overnight at Kurokawa Onsen ”Sanga”

The garden is well-maintained while retaining the atmosphere of deep in the  mountain, but I was surprised to learn that it was all planted by hand.    I fell in love with the richness of the ingredients and the delicious taste, and now I stay here regularly.   It seems that all the accommodations in Kurokawa Onsen are wonderful, but I hope that the regular accommodations do not suffer from the negative effects of overtourism.

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Midwinter night festival that you must see at least once, with fireworks going off overhead

fes15 firework

Arrive into Chichibu city early, visit Chichibu Shrine (be sure to check out the carvings and the parents’ warning signboard), and select the Chichibu meisen (silk fabric with an innovative design that was popular during the Taisho era).      Let’s simulate nighttime behavior.    If you don’t decide on your route back to the inn and the final time in advance, you won’t really be able to return the inn.

“Kledge of paents”

>Don’t leave your skin unattended to babies

>Don’t leave your hands unattended to young children

>Don’t leave your eyes off your child

>Don’t leave your mind from young people

The operation plan for all the festival cars is open, just like a railway schedule, so you don’t have to worry about when and where they will change direction, where they will stop and stay, and when and where the children’s kabuki on the festival cars will be done.   If you want to see the festival cars with fireworks in the background in the middle of the night, be sure to read the schedule.

A festival car does not have a steering wheel like a car, so it can only move in a straight line.    How do it change direction at crossroads?    There will be no forceful change of direction like one at the Kyoto Gion Festival does.    The method is to use a lever to raise it, attach a rotating shaft underneath it, and then change direction.   The work before and after rotation is a bit tedious.    On the other hand, when pulling straight, it is much rougher than the Kyoto.

In the middle of the night, as festival cars cross the railroad crossing befor going up Dango sloop, the railroad overhead wires are cut off for about two hours.    How bold!

At the end, as all the festival cars line up at the Otabisho, the fireworks go off directly overhead, and you’ll be more overwhelmed by the huge sound than the gaiety of festival cars decorated with lights.    However, please note that seats inside the Otabisho are reserved in advance, and the fireworks are going off behind your head.

There is only one free place in Chichibu Park where you can watch the festival cars panting up Dango sloop and the fireworks in the back, and you might feel  scared of crowd like sad accident at Soul during Halloween week.   If fireworks are important to you, give up on Otabisho, but anywhere along National Route 140 is the best place because you can see clearly and it’s right next to the launch site.

Steam locomotives run on holidays and special days

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A detour in late autumn, Heirinji Temple completely dyed in red.

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heirin temple6
heirin temple6

Hei-rin-ji Temple was named after the flat (“Hei” in Japanese) forest (“rin” in Japanese).    Friendly and easy to understand.   The entire vast precinct is colored with autumn leaves, and there is a walking path within the precinct.    If you go to the back, there are places where the leaves have not turned autumn yet, so you can enjoy the gradation.   But anyway, it’s hard to take a detour.    You have to take a bus from Hibarigaoka station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

 

Hibarigaoka is a famous place that was developed as a mammoth housing complex to meet the demand for new families to live during the time when Japan’s population increased explosively due to the baby boom.   The housing complex is on the opposite side of the station from Heirinji Temple, but renovations have progressed and some of the former housing complexes are now being used as shops, one of which is a café that serves giant pancakes.    It’s baked after you order it, so please look forward to it.

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Autumn Chichibu Golden Course, Nagatoro and Tsukinoishi Momiji Park

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Chichibu is a place where you can see that the ocean floor strata have sunk beneath the Japanese archipelago due to the mantle, and have come to the surface.   The limestone from Mt. Buko, which is still being scraped away, was a concrete material that supported Japan’s period of high economic growth, but it originally came from coral reefs in the Pacific Ocean.

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nagatoro rock tatami
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legs holding on crystalline schist

Nagatoro’s rock tatami is made of crystalline schist, which forms thin horizontal cracks (like puff pastry) when the pressure on the rock that was buried deep underground is released.

“Tsukinoishi Momiji Park” is literally  translated in English to “moon stone and maple park.”   “Moon stone! ”   Does this indecates the first one collected by Apollo and  exhibited at the Osaka Expo 1970 ?    That’s what you could think.    It’s confusing because it’s said to have been named after the phrase “moon stone” that appears in a haiku written by a Meiji haiku poet.   Maple trees grow in clusters on the west bank of the Arakawa River that runs through Chichibu, so when you come up from the river, you can see the red leaves of the maple trees shining in the clear setting sun.

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