Daisetsu Kogen Swamp, a natural beauty more perfect than the gardens of Kyoto

midori-numa (3)

Before the shuttle bus group arrives, take a lecture at the Brown Bear Information Center about how to climb the mountain.    The important thing is to know what to do to avoid encountering a bear, and I have hardly ever thought about what to do in case I do come across one.    Even if you wear a bear bell, it will be drowned out by the sound of the river around the stream.    If you are a certain distance away from a bear you encounter, you will back away while looking into the bear’s eyes, and if you are attacked at close range, you will protect your neck with your hands under your backpack, but what would you do if your hands were bitten by bear?    All you can do is decide not to think about encountering such a thing.    The exit from the center is also on your way home, so make a donation or buy some goods from the center to show your appreciation for the safety efforts.

Now it’s time to tour the swamp.    One circuit clockwise takes 5 hours, but the second half is downhill so you will need some climbing equipment.   If you turn back at Kogen-numa(swamp) just before the deepest Sora-numa, you won’t need any mountaineering equipment and can return in 4 hours round trip.   If you look at the map, you can see that this is a place where the mountain collapsed and created swamps, but it is a fairly long mountain trail and should not be considered a hike.     It is better to at least wear mudguard spats on your foot.

(Source:  Excerpt from the Ministry of the Environment website)

Final descending time for each of the three major swamps is announced, and  instructors are always on standby there regardless of the weather.    I felt that it was hard work for the instructors to call out to every climber, but since they were standing all the time without even ringing a bear bell, so I thought that calling out to them was also a measure against bears. (I’m sorry.)    Early morning and evening are prime times for bears to be seen.

red demon will catch you
red demon will catch you

At this time of final descent, few people will associate it with the red demon of the Mt. Rokko traversal competition (Kobe City).    I once participated in a competition where I ran 48 km of Mt. Rokko from Suma to Takarazuka in one day.   A red demon will chase you from the last place, and at each checkpoint it will display how many minutes it will take to arrive, and if you are overtaken by this, you will be told that the race is over and you will not be able to complete the race.    Furthermore, when you finish the race, you will receive a small shield to prove your completion.    The next day, my body was in shambles.

Now, go back to the tour.    For the first hour, you walk through wetlands dotted with skunk cabbage that looks like it’s been devoured by bears,

If you’re lucky, you might be able to spot the brightly colored wild bird, the Ginzanmashiko,

And then you arrive at Takimi-numa.   There are many temples in Kyoto with wonderful gardens, but Takimi-numa surpasses them in its ultimate natural beauty.    The exquisite balance between the close-up view of the swamp and the distant view of the colorful autumn leaves arranged like a folding screen on the slope is out of this world.    You can enjoy it on both sunny and even rainy days.

Midori-numa, which appears next to Takimi-numa, has an open landscape and is one of swamps with final decending time set.    Each swamp has a completely different look.

After a while along the mountain trail, you will come to Ezo-numa.   It appears to be a swamp formed like a terraced rice field at the edge of a slope, but the end of the break in the trees in the middle seems to be a waterfall over there, and the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is nothing short of beautiful.

When you walk further, you will see the cliffs of Takanegahara and Shikibu-numa where the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is also  beautiful.

As you climb further, Daigaku-numa appears at the foot of the cliff.

The turning point, Kogen-numa, will be just around the corner.     If the weather is good, you can see Mt. Midoridake over there look like the mountain is wrapped in red sashes of autumn leaves.    Time is up here.    Before I knew it, the light rain had gotten heavier, so I turned back.

It took about 5 hours round trip as I went slowly.    After eating up some warm ramen at an inn in Daisetsu Kogen Onsen, I headed straight to New Chitose Airport.    There was no time to stop by to see the Sounkyo waterfall.    The road along the way is covered in terrain full of columnar joints.

 

ezo-numa (1)
Go back to itinerary

Ginsendai, a carpet of autumn leaves and pikas peeking out from the rocks

ginsendai 3

First, write your name in the climbing record book at the management office at the entrance to the mountain trail.     It takes about 15 minutes to reach the ridgeline, so you just keep going up the mountain trail with no views until then. 

Once you reach the ridgeline, there are a series of spectacular views.    A brocade of autumn leaves spreads across the huge flat slope.

Don’t be satisfied here, let’s at least go to Daiichi Hanazono (First Flower Garden).    It’s less than an hour from the parking lot.   The view of the sea of ​​trees below is amazing from here, and you’ll want to dive with your whole body.

A little further ahead is a rocky area where pikas live.    It is a small animal of the lagomorph family that survived the Ice Age and physically resembles a mouse.   Listen carefully and look in the direction of the sound.    They move quickly, and the bottom of the rocky area is a passage for pikas, so you can see their faces from various angles.    This is also cute.     There is a regular photographer with a telephoto lens, so it’s a good idea to ask him/her about various things.

 

ezo-numa (1)
go back to itinerary

 

 

 

Are dolphins messengers of God?

dolphin watching4

From the Amakusa Islands, Mount Unzen on the Shimabara Peninsula can be seen nearby, and many wild dolphins live here where the Ariake Sea exits into the East China Sea.    In any case, as soon as we set out on our fishing boat, the dolphins started chasing us as if they were enjoying the competition.   Several of them work together to blow the tide and pass under the bottom of the ship.  It’s like a messenger of peace.

Although it is advertised as a sightseeing boat for viewing dolphins, the hull is essentially a fishing boat.    The price includes lunch.     I was wondering to myself what would happen if I ate it, got on board, and got seasick.

A detour

As you head north along the west coast of the island from Sakitsu Church, you will see “Myoken-ura”, a sea cliff shaped like an elephant, “Tits Rock”, which is difficult to take photos with women, and a lighthouse floating off the coast that looks like “the Statue of Liberty”.   In Amakusa City, you can buy Amakusa pottery “Kohiki” that was introduced from Korea, and Gion Bridge, which is a stone bridge but has multiple girders lined up instead of arches, is a must-see.”

Another detour

At the tip of the Misumi Peninsula, where the bridge to the Amakusa Islands crosses, there is a stone wharf called Misumi Nishi Port that remains from the Meiji period, and has been designated as a World Cultural Heritage Site.    If you have time, it’s a place where you can relax.

 

aso statute of nirvana left
go back to itinerary

Hidden Christians in the Amakusa Islands are not hidden

sakitsu church1

The colonial policy hidden behind the sale of Christian missionary work and trade as a set terrified the Edo shogunate, and with the isolation of the country, Christians fell prey to the banning policy.     Shortly after the establishment of the shogunate, there was a large-scale battle to suppress Christianity (the Shimabara Rebellion), and the victorious shogunate suffered heavy losses, and many Christian farmers in the region died or were dispersed.     As a result, they were unable to harvest any crops at all.    Even so, there were still many Christians remaining in Amakusa and Shimabara.     It is said that 90% of the people in the town of Sakitsu were Christians, and since they all survived as they were, it seems that even if they were hidden Christians, it was an open secret.

The villagers who were accused of being Christians claimed to believe in a local deity inherited from their ancestors, while Shogunate officials, fearing a repeat of the Shimabara Rebellion that had endangered the Shogunate and the subsequent sharp decline in the agricultural population, denied the truth and did not disclose it  publicly.

ohetenshudo2
ohe-tenshudo

Perhaps it was wisdom that determined that the  villagers had a “misunderstanding of the sect” (they did not believe in Christianity, but that he believed in the wrong religion without realizing it was a mistake) and did not certify them as Christians.    I am impressed that there were officials with such good sense at that time.    There are many churches in the Amakusa Islands.    Many believers still maintain their faith.

Sakitsu downtown is a part of World Heritage “Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region”, although not in the Nagasaki Region.

On the way to the Amakusa islands

go to amakusa islands6 Mt.Unzen
Mt.Unzen on the way to Amakusa islands

You can reach the Amakusa Islands by crossing a number of beautiful bridges from the Misumi Peninsula.    On the way, you can clearly see the Shimabara Peninsula and Mt. Unzen across the Ariake Sea.    However, driving while looking away is prohibited.

Cave hot spring inn Yurakutei (Yumigahama beach in Ohyano island)

Guests are welcomed by writing their names on the sake jar at the entrance of the inn.    The owner has dug a cave by hand and you can enjoy hot springs inside it.    Anyway, for dinner there will be more fish dishes caught in the Ariake Sea than you can finish.

 

aso statute of nirvana left
go back to itinerary