Is the priest of Daizenji Temple (National Treasure) a winemaker?

daizenji (9) view point of kofu basin

Daizenji Temple is also called Grapes Temple.      This is not because the priest is passionate about grape cultivation and wine making.    It is said that during the Nara period, the monk Gyoki enshrined the Yakushi Sanzon holding a bunch of grapes that appeared in his dreams.     In fact, the priest and temple officials grow grapes on the premises and set up tanks to make wine.

daizenji (7) grape field in the temple
daizenji (7) grape field in the temple
wine produced by temple
wine produced by temple

At the rest area with garden view, a glass of homemade (or sould I say “templemade”) wine is sold for 300 yen, and it comes with four delicious Koshu grapes as a snack, so it’s a good deal.   I ended up buying a bottle(1800ml) of wine(Muscat Bailey A) as a souvenir.

Well, there are three elements that make this temple famous.

First, the Yakushi-do Hall and the Zushi that houses the Buddha statues are national treasures.   The roof of Yakushido is made of cypress bark, and its curved shape is harmonious and beautiful.    It was built during the Mongol invasion period of the Kamakura period, making it the oldest wooden structure in the Kanto region.   In Kyoto, Senbon Shakado was built around the same time.   The Nikko(sun) and Gakko(moon) Bodhisattvas and the 12 divine generals enshrined inside are very well-designed and give a sense of newness despite being old, but the story of the woman who explains them is too comical.    I feel like it’s a bit of a mismatch.

daizenji (11) Yakushido
daizenji (11) Yakushido

Next, it is said that this was the temple where Katsuyori Takeda, who was defeated by the Oda army and headed for Mt. Tenmoku, stayed overnight praying for a counterattack.    These records of Takeda’s demise remain in this temple.

Finally, at the end of the Edo period, the shogunate army and the Shinsengumi, who had a final battle with the new government army, established their tentative headquarter on the west side of Daizenji Temple to prevent the temple from being damaged by war.

The captain was Isamu Kondo, and the main gate of Daizenji Temple is depicted on the background of the nishiki-e(color print).    The purpose of this battle was to seize Kofu Castle first and prevent the new government forces from invading Edo, but they were defeated by the new government forces led by Taisuke Itagaki.   This was exactly the same history as when Katsuyori Takeda tried to reach Seiunji Temple for Reborn, but was preempted by the Oda army.

daizenji (1) gate
daizenji (1) gate

 

Detour

Speaking of food in Yamanashi, it’s “Houtou.”

restaurant kaiki (2)
restaurant minaki (2) entrance

It’s hard to tell how it’s different from udon, but the flour is kneaded without adding salt to keep it from becoming chewy, and then it’s cut up and simmered with vegetables without waiting too long.    Therefore, some of the noodles will dissolve into the soup, creating a soup unique to “Houtou.”

restaurant kaiki (7) hoto
restaurant minaki (7) houtou

Enjoy houtou at a house designated as a registered tangible cultural property. The house “Minaki” is an old Japanese zelkova house built in 1896.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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The rock garden of Seiun-ji Temple, the place where the Takeda clan was revived

seiunji (4)

Suspected of rebellion by the Kamakura Shogunate, the ancestor of the Takeda family committed suicide on Mt. Tenmoku where Seiun-ji Temple is located, and the family was once extinct, but the Muromachi shogunate revived the Takeda family, and after that for the Takeda family, Mt. Tenmoku was recongnized as the place of rebirth, and Seiun-ji Temple became the family temple.    Later, after the death of Takeda Shingen, who ruled the province of Kai, his son Katsuyori Takeda was defeated by Oda Nobunaga’s army and headed for Seiun-ji Temple in hopes of being reborn, but committed suicide on the way.   Indeed, history repeats itself.

seiunji soba service (4)
Autumn leaves in front of seiunji

The founder of Seiun-ji Temple trained on Mt. Tenmoku in China, and opened his temple here as a meditation training hall.    It is called a rock garden, but the huge rocks that fell down are left in their original forms, and people can meditate on them and become one with nature, gaining an understanding of the truth.

seiunji rock garden (1)
seiunji rock garden
seiunji rock garden (14) Mt.Fiji
seiunji rock garden (14) Mt.Fiji

The head of Mt.Fuji can be seen from the temple garden, but if you climb further up the rock garden, you can see Mt. Fuji poking its head out from the gap in the mountains.    Even if you meditate on a stone, you can’t help but worry about the state of Mt. Fuji.

seiunji rock garden (13)
Mt.Fuji  from seiunji rock garden

In addition, up until then, soba was called “sobagaki” and was eaten in the form of manju, but thiswas also the birthplace of soba, which adopted Chinese culture and began eating it in the form of noodle.    I learned this for the first time when I came here. [Link Yamagata]

The time I visited was during the annual Treasure Window Exhibition held in early November.   One of the treasures was a original military flag of the Takeda army written as “Fu-Rin-Ka-Zan.” (>>For meaning, read this post)

In the event, I was also treated to matcha tea with a sweet named as a moon hidden by cloud and autumn soba noodles. 

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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