The Kunisaki Peninsula is a training ground with a series of strangely shaped rocks

nakayamasenkyo yaba viewpoint1 left
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo20
nakayamasenkyo20

Although the elevation is only 300 metres, the tension of climbing up rocky terrain at such an incredible height is perhaps due to its steepness and the excellent views.    Nakayama Senkyo is a place that tests your courage, with a series of chain sections, narrow stone bridges(Mumyo bridge) where stones support each other to cross valleys, and knife-edge saddles(Uma-no-se; horse back), and is not the kind of place you would casually go trekking.

The Ministry of the Environment calls it the Kunisaki Peninsula “Minemichi (Mountain road)” Long Trail and recommends it, but it is truly a training ground.     I don’t recommend it on windy days.  (On the other hand, the ”Michinoku” Coastal Trail, which was restored after the Great East Japan Earthquake, is recommended even on windy days.)    However, once you reach the top, you can see the strangely shaped rocks and peaks, and beyond that the Seto Inland Sea.     Jizo statues are watching over you from every angle.

Once you go ahead beyond the top, you’ll struggle to find the way down.    There’s a hidden path to the rear left at a sharp angle, so if you miss it and go ahead, you’ll find yourself suddenly faced with a sheer cliff, losing track of your position and panicking.    I almost panicked too, but I calmed down and walked back to the path, where I found the entrance to the descent, but it was a long downhill climb from here to the bottom.

The circuit course starts from Reisenji Temple and takes at least two hours to complete.

Detour

Overlooking the rice fields of Tashibu-no-sho, once a manor in Kyoto, is a home-style restaurant called Shiki-sai, where it is a play on words between the four seasonal ingredients and color combinations.    It is located exactly halfway between Nakayama Senkyo and Kitsuki old town.

I always drop by this restaurant because they serve elaborate dishes using unexpected ingredients, but it’s hard work because the owner does everything by herself.    Even if you make a reservation, it’s better to contact her in advance to confirm.

 

climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
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Japanese hotel that makes you feel like you’re in a Kyoto garden

yakakutei2 welcome

I have rarely stayed in such a luxurious inn, Yakakutei.    I would definitely recommend this place to foreign visitors who are taking advantage of the weak yen.   The garden, surrounded by a cloister and covered with shrubs and moss, is beautifully maintained.    A gazebo for viewing the garden faces the courtyard, but it is carved into a lower level than the courtyard, so that the moss garden can be viewed at eye level.

The rock bath hot spring is also located on a vast site, with rocks arranged like a garden, and the hot water is filled to the brim.    Of particular note is the ingenious and creative menu for dinner.   The plates on which the dishes are served are also excellent.    Unusually, the appetizers (similar to an assorted antipasto in Italian cuisine) that usually precede the main dish are served last.    Perhaps this is to avoid eating the appetizer too slowly and being too full by the time the main dish is served?    The waiter was a man dressed as a butler in a crested hakama, which reminded me a bit of a male version of a maid cafe in Akihabara, and that was the only thing that felt a bit strange.

Detour

If you climb the outer rim of the caldera behind the inn, you will soon arrive at Kagoshima Airport, but before checking in, it is worth stopping by Kareigawa Station, with its nostalgic wooden station building, Inukai Falls carved into the cliff, and Shiohitashi Onsen, where Sakamoto Ryoma and his wife, Oryo, were invited by the Satsuma clan to heal the wounds he received when he was nearly assassinated in Kyoto, and where he stopped on his honeymoon.

former shrine2
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Black vinegar not being able to stop drinking every day for health

black vinegar field4 sparrows on the warm vase

Black vinegar is made by taking full advantage of the sunny inner slope of the caldera’s outer rim and the blessings of the groundwater that springs from there.    We often hear about black vinegar on health food programs and in commercials, but unless we come here we can’t truly understand that it is made inside the caldera, in a large number of jars.    The jars are filled with koji, steamed rice, and groundwater, and multiple fermentations take place in parallel inside the sun-warmed jars.

The view of the jars lined up on the slopes inside the caldera overlooking Sakurajima is spectacular, and there is also a heartwarming scene of sparrows flocking together to keep warm on the warm jars.

Not only did you get to see the vinegar production area, but you also had the chance to try some health foods at a restaurant that uses black vinegar, and then finally, a souvenir corner.    This is the usual flow of the tour.    By the way, the longer you age the black vinegar, the less acidic it becomes and the smoother it tastes, but the price also increases in proportion to the aging years, so it’s all down to your wallet.     However, the ingredients in the vinegar that enter your stomach are probably the same regardless of aging.    From that day on, I started drinking black vinegar mixed with apple juice every morning for my health.

Detour

In addition to Kirishima Jingu(Shrine), there is another Jingu in Kirishima city, Kagoshima Jingu.    “Jingu” is ranked higher than other shrines (>>read a hierarchy story on this blog).       But why is Kagoshima Jingu in Kirishima City, when Kagoshima City is nearby?     It is said that Sakurajima was called “Kagoshima” in the old days, and it is certainly true that the shrine faces due south towards Sakurajima.    It also enshrines “Yamasachihiko,” the same deity as Aoshima Shrine in Miyazaki Prefecture.     

There is a real sacred horse at the entrance to the shrine, just like the one at Konpira Shrine in Shikoku.    Most of them are horses that have been active in horse racing.     In eastern Japan, fake horses are enshrined at the entrance, but in western Japan, most of them are real.

 

former shrine2
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A rare shrine that loves moving

kirishima shrine4

Kirishima Shrine was originally enshrined just below the top of Mount Takachiho, but it was burned down in an eruption and moved to the middle of the mountain.    It was then burned down again in another eruption, and after learning its lesson, it was moved to its current location, much further down the mountain.

You can drive up to Takachiho Kawara (Kawara is “Riverbank” in English but actually the meaning is a landscape with stones scattered all over the place, like those found on a riverbank. ), the shrine’s second moving location.     There’s a short walk through shrubs covered with volcanic debris, but the altar stands alone in the desolate plain, completely silent, and is more charming than the current divine temple.    The only regret is that parking fees are charged even though it’s a desolate, empty place.     Since there aren’t many tourists or tour buses, it would be better if it was free.

former shrine2
former shrine2

The Kirishima mountain range continues to erupt, with Mt. Shinmoedake erupting recently and covering half of the mountain with black volcanic debris.  Right next to the Ebino Highland Rest House where we took a break on the way, Mt. Iou was constantly spewing smoke, giving the impression of an active volcano.

For this reason, it is claimed that this is the right place where the heavenly grandson descended to earth.    But on the other hand, it is claimed that a valley called Takachiho Gorge is the right place.     So it would be great if the two sides could debate it thoroughly and come to a conclusion.    Either way, it’s a world of mythology, so either way, it’s not the correct answer.

The current Kirishima Shrine is built on a slope, so when viewed from the front it looks like a beautifully tiered platform decorated on Girls’ festival.    Part of the shrine is a national treasure, and even though it cannot be seen from the outside, amulets commemorating the national treasure are sold there.  Occasionally it seems that you can visit the inner sanctuary during special viewing days.    But the admission fee is twice the price of the amulet.

Detour

Aso” is unmistakably a caldera because of its perfect shape, and when you look around various regions in Kyushu, you can find traces of caldera everywhere because they are all surrounded by outer rim mountains.    One of them is the “Kakuto Caldera,” and when you climb up the Kirishima mountain range, you pass an observation deck (Shiratori) from which you can see how huge it is,  which is comparable to Aso Caldera.     

Previously, it was thought that whole of Kagoshima Bay was a caldera, and that Sakurajima was a volcano that formed in the center of the caldera, just like Aso.     However, it seems that the entire Kagoshima Bay is not a single caldera, but that the Aira Caldera formed in the northern half of the bay, farther north than Sakurajima, and then Sakurajima formed on the edge of the caldera’s outer rim.     It’s interesting to search for calderas in Kyushu.

former shrine2
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