The moss phlox art is a welcome sight after a tiring walk

Yohzan Park (12)Moss phlox

Yozan Park is a small hill in the middle of town, close to Seibu Chichibu Station, but if you’re not careful, you’ll be exhausted before you even reach your destination.     ‘Yozan’ is written with the kanji for “sheep mountain,” and it is said that in the past, it was a place where sheep were extensively grazed, and there is still an area where sheep are kept today.

View point to watch the downtown of Chichibu

From this park, you can see Mount Bukō, a representative mountain of Chichibu, directly in front of you.     The contrast between the cherry blossoms in the park and the moss phlox spreading across the slope in the foreground is beautiful.

However, be careful not to take the wrong entrance to the park, as you’ll end up climbing an incredibly steep slope.     The signs that guide you from the station appear one after another, seemingly luring you down this steep hill.    While it’s true that the spectacular views of cherry blossoms and moss phlox are at the southern end of the park, I highly recommend taking the approach from the middle, climbing up from the direction of the city hall where the Chichibu Night Festival finale takes place, even though it may seem far away.

Correct access is as below.

Incorrect, challenging access is as below.

Speaking of which, Mount Bukō is a mountain made up of limestone blocks, and a considerable amount has been eroded from its summit, which has become a landmark.     It is said that this limestone was used extensively in the cement used to construct buildings in Tokyo.    The reason there’s limestone in this location is that, long ago, it was a coral reef island in the Pacific Ocean, which was carried on the Pacific Plate and, instead of being dragged down by the Eurasian Plate, emerged onto the surface.     You can really feel the dynamics of the Earth’s crust movement.

Detour

I recommend Chaco, a retro-modern coffee shop, which is located halfway up the hill at the northern end of Yozan Park.    They also serve lunch if you’ve missed your usual lunchtime meal.    They brew each cup of delicious coffee to suit each customer’s taste preferences.     It’s perfect to enjoy with a delicious cake.     The garden is also decorated with flowers.

 

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (2)
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Hōzenji Temple is full of weeping cherry trees

weeping cherry blossoms in Hozenji temple (3)

There are many temples with the same name, Hōzenji, throughout Japan, but the most famous is the Hōzenji in Osaka, which houses the Mizukake Fudo Myoo (Water-Pouring Fudo Myoo).     Because worshippers all pour water on the statue with ladles, the statue of Fudo Myoo is covered in moss.

Now, this blog post is about Hozenji Temple in Chichibu.     Weeping cherry blossoms bloom earlier than Somei Yoshino cherry blossoms, so I had given up on seeing them, thinking they would have already fallen.     However, the station attendant at Ohanabatake Station on the Chichibu Railway gave a detailed announcement of the day’s highlights, and he said that the weeping cherry blossoms at Hozenji Temple were still beautiful, although slightly past their peak.     Since he said he had seen it before going to work, I believed his words and walked 2.5 kilometers down Kita-Sakura Street, then continued walking silently towards Hozenji Temple.

Indeed, even from a distance, the vast cluster of weeping cherry trees looked like a small hill.     If we had come a little earlier, we might have been able to see the weeping cherry trees in full bloom, their branches covered in blossoms, stretching up the cliff behind the temple, but the white weeping cherry trees covering the area around the temple were simply magnificent.     They are said to be 100 years old.

 

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (2)
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An endless tunnel of cherry blossoms

North cherry blossoms Street in Nagatoro (2)

Nagatoro, located a short distance downstream from the center of Chichibu, is famous for its boat trips down the rapids and is also renowned for its dense cherry blossoms.     Incidentally, while boat trips down the river are great, I also recommend rafting in the middle of summer and jumping into the Arakawa River midway through.     Now, even in areas with a high concentration of cherry blossoms, the cherry blossom areas are spread out over a wide area, so you’ll get tired of walking unless you narrow down your area based on information about when the blossoms are in full bloom.

I recommend the 2.5-kilometer-long row of cherry trees along Kita-Sakura(North Cherry Blossoms) Street, which starts from Nagatoro Station to the next station, Nogami.      The tunnel of cherry blossoms stretches on and on, and when you try to take a picture of it, a car or motorcycle inevitably gets in the shot because it’s so long and unobstructed.

 

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Weeping cherry blossoms are more wabi-sabi than Kyoto

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (2)

Heading west from Kagemori Station on the Chichibu Railway, you’ll find a series of temples along the line, each boasting magnificent weeping cherry trees.     It’s a bit of a distance, but it’s a leisurely stroll along the country road, admiring the cherry blossoms planted here and there along the way.    Incidentally, the Arakawa River, which flows through downtown Tokyo, runs along the railway line.     Here, it carves a deep gorge.

Shofukuji Temple

First, I started walking from Bushu-Hino Station.     Although there were no signs, I climbed up beside a farmhouse and suddenly Shofuku-ji Temple appeared.     The sight of the cherry blossoms adorning the temple gate, which you can see when you look up the stairs, is truly breathtaking.    This spot is on a slight hill, so you can see the Chichibu Basin beyond the curtain of weeping cherry blossoms in front of you, with cherry blossoms visible everywhere.      You can also see the Chichibu Railway, and you’ll probably even see the steam locomotives moving along, spewing black smoke.

Seiunj Temple and Wakajishi Shrine

Next, we head towards the weeping cherry tree forest at Seiunji Temple, which is often seen on posters.     Along the way, we pass a shrine with a sumo wrestling ring.    The weeping cherry trees at Seiunji Temple are simply breathtaking.     If you climb the stairs of the adjacent Wakajishi Shrine and look down from above, you can enjoy an even more spectacular view of the weeping cherry forest.    Incidentally, the protective statue at the entrance of this shrine is a wolf, not a guardian lion.     Apparently, they light up the shrine at night during the cherry blossom festival, and the fact that there are stalls selling farming tools gives it a very rural festival feel.

        source: Chichibumovies

Chosenji Temple

Finally, we visit Chōsenji Temple, famous for the revival of a giant weeping cherry tree that had once declined in vitality.     Weeping cherry trees bloom earlier than Somei Yoshino cherry trees, so the giant white weeping cherry tree here has already shed its blossoms, but the temple grounds are beautifully maintained.    Furthermore, this temple is worth visiting this year because it is unveiling its hidden Buddha statue for the Year of the Horse.      However, since the unveiling is taking place in the back of the temple hall, which is quite dark, it is very difficult to see the face of the Kannon statue, making it almost as if it were not unveiled at all.

From here, I headed towards Urayamaguchi Station, surrounded by cherry blossoms, and returned to my accommodation.

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Securing a good location is crucial for collaborative photos

Bushu Hino Station (5)

Along the Chichibu Railway line, especially around the stations, weeping cherry trees are densely packed.     What’s more, they’re not lined up in an orderly fashion, but rather grow naturally, which is what makes them so appealing.    These photos, featuring cherry blossoms alongside a quaint old train station, are a classic example of cherry blossom photography.

Moreover, since the steam locomotive runs on weekends from spring to autumn, it would be a shame not to take photos of the steam locomotive and cherry blossoms together.     However, securing a good spot is crucial for taking these kinds of photos.    But, Chichibu isn’t overly touristy, so even photography enthusiasts are generally calm, and finding a good spot is still a peaceful affair.

Bushu Hino Station (4)SL fans
Bushu Hino Station (4)SL fans

A train whistle echoes in the distance, letting us know it’s getting closer.      Soon, the hissing sound of steam can be heard traveling along the tracks.    If you choose a location with a slope, you can capture the sight of black smoke billowing around cherry blossoms.     The steam locomotive seems to approach slowly, but once it’s in front of you, it suddenly speeds past.

My usual favorite photo spot is around Bushu-Hino Station.     There’s a small level crossing without barriers, and an automated voice warns you “Dangerous!” if you try to cross it, but people who don’t know about the automated voice system are startled by the voice and almost trip, so it’s hard to tell which is more dangerous.

If you walk about 20 minutes uphill from this railroad crossing, you’ll find a popular soba restaurant that only serves 49 bowls a day.     The owner apparently checks the quality of the soba for one bowl each day, but you can’t help but think, why not just make 51 bowls?    A score of 80 points was posted inside the restaurant at that day.     It was indeed delicious. Soba noodles are a living thing, so eat them all first before starting on the side dishes.    Also, since it’s a mountain trail, don’t forget your bear bell.     You have to risk your life to eat delicious food.

 

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Withstands heavy snowfall of 3 meters

meguro house (1)

The area along the Tadami Line is one of the heaviest snowfall regions in Japan, and the snow is wet with a lot of moisture, so weak buildings will collapse.    Therefore, in this region, ladders are already in place to allow people to climb onto the roofs and remove the large amounts of snow that have accumulated.     It’s definitely not for Santa Claus.     Also, the foundations of the houses are about the height of one story.

In this environment, the Meguro Residence, a thatched-roof house built over 200 years ago, still stands.     Its thatched roof is more than twice as thick as a typical thatched roof, and a considerable number of thick pillars are installed inside to withstand heavy snowfall.    The descendants of the Meguro family still exist today.     At the time, they were positioned between the ruling magistrates and the village headmen who managed the farmers.     They were known as “warimoto shoya” (super village headmen) and negotiated with the magistrates regarding the allocation of land tax, and were granted the right to have surnames and carry swords, effectively acting as the family in charge of local administration.

Even today, there is a large hearth in the center of the house where firewood is burning.     Above the hearth hangs a large, flat structure called a “hidana,” which prevents sparks from flying and igniting the thatched roof.     In case of fire, the chains hanging from it can be cut to cover the hearth.    The phrase “staying awake all night” is often used, and it originates from the practice of servants watching over the hearth fire and protecting against thieves.    Apparently, dozens of servants lived and worked in this house at the time.

It’s impossible to imagine what it was like back then without listening to the guide’s explanation.    I heard many interesting stories, such as how there are three Shinto altars, one of which is modeled after the main hall of Ise Grand Shrine; how, because people always pass through the same threshold as part of proper etiquette, the wood has become warped in that area due to the friction of their kimonos; and how, after the end of the samurai era, they built a power plant.

Detour(Sake Brewery)

There’s a sake brewery that every visitor to the Meguro residence must stop by.     It’s Tamagawa Brewery, which inherited the sake brewing license previously held by the Meguro family.      They cover heavy winter snow with a special sheet to protect it from  melting and age their sake at low temperatures throughout the year.     After a quick tour of the brewery, I head straight for the tasting of the 10 different types of sake they offer.

Detour(Tadami Railway)

The Tadami Line, which connects Uonuma and Aizu, is famous for offering scenic views of remote areas from its train windows, but you can enjoy the scenery even just up to Echigo-Suhara Station, where the Meguro Residence is located.     We crossed several rivers, and the river water was a deep blue, like the color of melted glaciers.    While Echigo-Suhara Station has a very atmospheric exterior, be aware that it is not heated in the middle of winter.

 

tadami line in snow (10)
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Who started calling him the Japanese Michelangelo?

saifuku temple (7)

He’s being promoted as Japan’s Michelangelo, but when someone suddenly mentions Michelangelo, it doesn’t immediately ring a bell.     He is Ishikawa Uncho.     When you search for Michelangelo’s representative works, the results are his sculpture of David, the Sistine Chapel’s Creation ceiling fresco, and the Last Judgment fresco.    While the 3D carvings on the transoms, carved from both sides, and the carvings covering the entire ceiling of the memorial hall certainly bear some resemblance to Michelangelo’s masterpieces, the more precise depictions evoke Ito Jakuchu, and the splashing waves suggest an homage to Katsushika Hokusai.

Eirinji Temple

In the central part of the temple’s main hall, a seductive celestial maiden playing a musical instrument is carved into the transom.     However, on the other side of the transom, which is only visible to the head priest, the naked back of the celestial maiden is carved.      You won’t find a temple like this anywhere else in Japan.    The transoms also feature carvings depicting stories and peacocks that devour the poisons of the world.     It would be fun to attend a boring Buddhist memorial service at a temple like this.

Saifukuji Temple

Beside the few steps leading up to the memorial hall stand Nioh statues that resemble David, but whose faces are undeniably anime-like.     And once you reach the top of the stairs, you are so overwhelmed by the gigantic sculptures covering the entire ceiling, which seem within reach, that you don’t even have time to look at the memorial tablets.

 

YoshidayThe scene depicts Zen Master Dogen, nearly attacked by a tiger, summoning a dragon with a thrown stick (this part somehow reminds me of Pokémon), with an eagle observing the scene, carp swimming upstream against a waterfall, and small birds flapping their wings on the cliff face.     However, various other animals are scattered among the sculptures, and the level of detail is so exquisite that you’ll want to lie down in the memorial hall and examine it closely.    You shouldn’t actually lie down on it.

 

There is also another sculpture, though uncolored, depicting a figure copying scriptures at a long table, but incorporating perspective.    Furthermore, the front of the memorial hall building is adorned with intricate carvings.     I was able to photograph these, but photography is prohibited inside.     For more details, please purchase the photo book.     Incidentally, the interior photos in this blog are from the tourist association’s brochure.

Detour

Yoshidaya's cream puffs
Yoshidaya’s cream puffs

Yoshidaya‘s “Cookie Choux” is popular for its freshly baked, crispy pastry and smooth, light custard cream filling.    In addition to Western-style sweets, they also have a wide selection of Japanese sweets.    Yoshidaya is located in the shopping street just before crossing the Uonogawa River, on the way from Echigo-Horinouchi Station to Eirinji Temple.

 

tadami line in snow (10)
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What’s at Urasa Station, where the Shinkansen stops?

fukou temple (6)

The main gate of Fukoji Temple is said to be a replica of the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko Toshogu Shrine, and was commissioned by the temple’s parishioners through donations, so they must have been very wealthy at the time.    Moreover, it was built to withstand heavy snowfall of up to 3 meters.    Therefore, many support beams are placed at the eaves to withstand the weight of the snow.

More famous here is the Bishamondo Naked Pushing Festival held in early March.    When I visited, it was just two days before the festival, and preparations were in full swing.    The young men were in the process of carrying a large candle weighing 50 kg.    During the festival, they move around carrying the candle, so they are covered in hot wax.

Bishamondo Temple was built by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, who pacified Tohoku during the Heian period, to pray for victory and a bountiful harvest.     In the past, the statue of Bishamonten was only unveiled during the New Year’s visit, and the festival originated from people pushing and shoving to get to the temple as quickly as possible.     However, nowadays, one can’t help but think that there’s no need to strip naked, perform water rituals, and then push and shove each other naked inside a temple.    In the Tohoku region, winter naked festivals are still held at temples, shrine and others in various places, and usually the main event is a scramble to grab the first good fortune of the new year.    However, here it’s simply a matter of pushing and shoving, so unless you participate, you really won’t understand how everyone gets into a trance-like state.    Despite attracting many visitors in the midst of a snowstorm exceeding 3 meters, it might be wiser to watch the live stream on YouTube.

Source: @bisyamondo

Detour

A bronze statue of Prime Minister Kakuei Tanaka, who hails from this region, stands proudly in front of east side of Urasa Station.     The fact that it has a snow-sheltering roof above it is typical of a snowy region.    Just like Fukoji Temple, on the west side of the station there is Ezumiya, which makes bento boxes to order.     Even though they are bento boxes, the rice is from Uonuma, so it’s delicious.

tadami line in snow (10)
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Hario radio tower that’s not a chimney

Radio Tower (13)
Radio Tower (1)
Radio Tower (1)

These are the remains of a radio facility that was built 27 years after Marconi discovered wireless telegraphy in 1895, but from the outside it looks like a concrete chimney.    That’s because the towers are arranged in an equilateral triangle with sides of 300 meters, with wires connecting the tips and transmitting radio waves toward the horizon, so if there were no antenna wires, they would look like three chimneys no matter how you look at them.

The tower was made by arranging rectangular boards to create the outer frame, then pouring concrete into it.    This process was repeated many times to gradually increase the height, and traces of this can be seen, demonstrating the massive work that went into building the 136-meter tower.    You can see the steel beams that support the tower from inside, and it is said that after the facility closed, local children climbed to the top of the tower as a test of courage.    Once inside the tower, try clapping your hands.     The echo is incredible, and the sound echoes back and forth like the roaring of a dragon, a sound that can be heard in the temple halls of Kyoto.

It is believed that this radio equipment was used to transmit the “Niitakayamanobore(literally “climb up Mt.Nitaka”) radio command to the fleet at sea, signaling the start of the Pacific War.     The radio waves used were long waves, which were believed to have reached long distances at the time, and therefore required a 300-meter long transmitting antenna wire.    Naturally, since it is a long wave, it requires a huge amount of power, so a huge space where the equipment for this purpose was likely installed remains in the middle of the three pylons.     The feeling of ruins is incredible.

Please note that although a volunteer ladys are at the reception desk, it is only open until 4pm.     A group of patrons of the Saga Shinkin Bank arrived after 4pm in three large buses and forced their way in, which was unfortunate for the receptionists.    Admission is free, so please be mindful of your manners.      By the way, near the reception desk they were selling Saikai mikan mandarins for 200 yen per bag.     Nagasaki is actually a mandarin orange producing region, so you should definitely buy some.

Detour

A small entrance to the huge Omura Bay is located near Hario, and two beautiful Saikai Bridges connect the mouth of the bay.     There are several viewpoints, but the one I highly recommend is Saikai no Oka(Hill of Saikai).    This is a great viewpoint where you can see the three radio towers of Hario together, and if you shift your viewpoint to the right you can see the two Saikai Bridges.

As it is a small bay mouth of Omura Bay, you can see whirlpools depending on the time of day.    Please check the spring tide times beforehand.     Hill of Saikai is quite difficult to reach even with a navigation system, and if you lose sight of it, you will be taken to a completely unexpected place, so don’t just rely on your navigation system; try to find the location of the Shin-Saikai Bridge viaduct by sight.

One more thing, the Saikai Pearl Line that goes through the Shin-Saikai Bridge has a toll of 100 yen for the downhill and 200 yen for the uphill, and you can’t use ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) so you have to pay in cash only, so be sure to have some coins ready.     It’s quite surprising in this day and age.

Finally, I would have loved to visit Mukyudo if I had had the time.     There are remains of a school built inside an air raid shelter by students at the end of the Pacific War, digging into the bedrock.     This is also free.

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A diorama world at the end of a roller coaster-like road – Tenkaiho

view point Tenkaiho (5)

We headed towards the Tenkaiho observation deck, passing through the somewhat congested Sasebo city and glancing sideways at the military base and shipyard.     On the way, we were swayed left and right up and down the steep slope of a small hill twice, and just when we had lost track of our position, we arrived at the observation deck.    This is the location where the opening sunset scene of the movie The Last Samurai was filmed (although to be precise it was at another observation deck nearby).     There is a fairly large free parking lot, but it was full.

The cosmos flowers were in full bloom next to the observation deck, and it seemed the car with Nagasaki license plates had come to see them.     Many groups from elderly care facilities were taking photos here and there with the cosmos flowers in the background, rather than heading to the observation deck.    I was worried about whether these elderly people got carsick, and if they didn’t feel carsick, I thought that would be a problem in itself.

The observation deck is at the top of a tower reached by climbing a flight of stairs, and from there you can see the chain of small islands of “Tsukumo-jima” to the west and the cranes of Sasebo Port to the east. The view from here on this day was like a diorama that seemed unreal, with calm waves and a tranquil world stretching to the horizon.    One place that should not be forgotten when looking at the scenery of a chain of small islands is Matsushima in the Tohoku region.   The view from Otakamoriyama overlooks the Pacific Ocean.    During the Great East Japan Earthquake, the islands of Matsushima acted as breakwaters, reducing tsunami damage to coastal towns.

 

 

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