Cruising to Tomonoura, a historic town

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There are no unsophisticated people who come to the Seto Inland Sea and travel by land from Onomichi to Tomonoura.    On the way of sea, you can see a large suspension bridge, a shipyard, and Kannon who prays for maritime safety.   However, please note that this cruise ship makes two round trips a day only on weekends and holidays.

Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura

Well, Tomonoura is located right in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea and was a port of waiting for the tide in the age of ships that depended on the wind and currents.   The high tide coming from the east and west channels of the Seto Inland Sea collides offshore, and the force is used to enter the port.    When leaving the port to advance offshore, it uses the power of the ebb tide that pulls it to the east and west .

The place where the Korean envoys stopped by still remains, and it is also the place where Japan’s first maritime casualty negotiations occurred between steamships on the late Edo period.    Here is the site of a true story in which the Kishu Domain (almost  Wakayama prefecture), which was under the control of the shogunate, was defeated by the Kaientai led by Ryoma Sakamoto, according to the World Public Law.

It’s fun to take a leisurely stroll through the nostalgic port town.    This is the stage of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” produced by Studio Ghibli. Furthermore, ‘Hohmeishu’, sweet sake with Japanese herbs, is famous, but you should also try original sweet sake ‘mirin’ which enhances the flavor of the dish.

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The cat road full of slopes is photogenic. Onomichi is a mecca for movies and anime.

onomichi13 skyview center
onomichi17 down slope
onomichi17 down slope

Anyway, Onomichi has a lot of slopes, cats and temples.   If you get lost in the narrow roads  friendly to cats, you are sure to come across a photogenic scenery.

Since Onomichi has a quiet channel between it and Mukaishima island on the opposite shore, it has been used since the Middle Ages as a shipping port for rice as annual tribute from inland manors and a shipping port for

onomichi road indication to Izumo
onomichi road indication to Izumo

 

 

silver from Izumo’s Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, which has become a World Heritage Site.

 

 

Takauji Ashikaga, who established the Muromachi Shogunate, also used this place as a foothold to advance to Kyoto.

onomichi3 joudo temple
onomichi3 joudo temple

A town packed with various elements.   That’s why it may be used in movies and anime scenes.   Walking route is as below.

The ropeway in the town is quite crowded, but from the top you can see the beauty of islands in the Seto Inland Sea.  The time of sunset is the target.  During the cherry blossom season, the whole mountain is dyed in cherry blossom color.

View from the top

onomichi cherry blossom season
onomichi cherry blossom season
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That island occupied by rabbits

rabbit island0 welcome
rabbit island6 welcome
rabbit island6 welcome

After landing that island you are immediately surrounded by huge number of rabbits.   There are lots of stories as to why rabbits were brought in Ohkuno island and bred.   Looking at the rabbits lying on their bellies and too relaxing even when people approach, it seems like a peaceful island.   However, ruins where the former army conducted poison gas experiments remain everywhere.  My delusion (story) is that after World War II, the GHQ (occupying American army) released the rabbits to confirm the safety of the poison gas removal process.

rabbit island11 too relaxed
rabbit island11 too relaxed

Don’t forget to procure rabbit food before crossing the island.   Rabbits don’t care about people who don’t have food.

Rent a bicycle when you get to the island.   You can go around in about 30 minutes.   However, if you want to see the beauty of the many islands, you need to leave your bicycle and climb a little.

Detour

Did you know that Chukai, Takehara City has a headquarters and a factory that holds more than 50% of Japan’s jam market share?   It is  Aohata, which is the first company in the world to canned mandarin oranges grown in the Seto Inland Sea.    It is said that the president of Aohata, who watched a regatta race between the UK’s most famous universities, was impressed by the cheering of the blue flag.   English replacement of Aohata is a blue flag.      Visitable factories and photogenic shops are near Chukai JR station.

Jam factory
Jam factory

 

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Takehara was once connected to Kyoto

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It is said that Takehara began when Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto developed the land based on the law of the Nara period that allowed the land that was cultivated by oneself to be owned by oneself.    This law was the beginning of the manor system, and wealth was concentrated in those who had the financial power to cultivate the land by themselves, and it triggered the collapse of the world centered on the emperor.

Anyway, Takehara has a connection with Kyoto and still retains a townscape called Little Kyoto.    Incidentally, the Kamo River, which has the same name as Kyoto, runs through the center of the city. Also, like Kyoto, sake brewing is thriving, and one of its descendants founded Nikka Whiskey in Japan.

takehara13
takehara13

A feature that is completely different from Kyoto is salt making in salt fields.    At that time, 80% of the salt produced in Japan was produced in Hiroshima Prefecture.

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Tanabata Decoration Festival (Miyagi Prefecture)

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When you look at the Tanabata decorations in the shopping district, they all look the same(sorry),  but when you learn that each shop displays their own decorations in front of each shop,  your perspective changes.   The results of contest are indicated unobtrusively beside each decoration.

By the way, a famous person signed a streamer for Tanabata decorations, so it seems that there was an event to find it, but the person who found it would definitely tear it off, so I thought the game wouldn’t work.

Recently, sparrow dances have been incorporated into festivals and contests have also been held. After all, decorations alone lack excitement, so it has changed to a participatory festival.   By the way, the sparrow is also the family crest of the Date family of the Sendai clan.

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Hanagasa Dancing Festival (Yamagata Prefecture)

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An important tool in Hanagasa Dance is a hat decorated with flowers.  The flower is safflower, and it was very valuable in the Edo period as a raw material for dyes and lipsticks.  ”Beautiful flowers have thorns.”  It was said that the hands of the young women who hand-picked them were dyed red with thorns.   Please refer to safflower stories in Yamagata at the botton below.

safflower
Go to safflower stories

Go back to the festival, many teams that make up the parade show off their unique dances from in traditional and elegant style to in brave and dynamic style.  Television news programs often show dances in an elegant style, but in contrast to folk music, the force of moving the hanagasa hats violently in dynamic style cannot be conveyed unless you come to the site.  My impression was that elegant dance and dynamic dance in the parade were half and half.   Original dances were occasionally seen.  Each team consists of communities, schools, and workplaces, and each of them appeals their own characteristics in their dance.

yamagata3 soba
yamagata3 soba

It is held on the long main street at night.  So, no need to keep a viewing spot in advance.  Please enjoy Yamagata soba in between viewings.   Yamagata Prefecture ranks first in the consumption ranking of soba.   Please refer to soba stories in Yamagata at the botton below.

white flower of buckwheat
Go to white flower of buckwheat and soba stories

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white flower of buckwheat
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Sansa Dancing Festival (Iwate Prefecture)

morioka3 miss Sansa

Women play the leading role s in dance and Taiko drumming.    In the parade, a powerful drum performance that is in perfect order is followed by an elegant dance.   Sansa dance has a Guinness record in “Largest Japanese Drum Ensemble”.   I am so sorry to say that you do not need to get any paid seat tickets in advance because the powerful parade can be seen from anywhere.

As soon as I get off Morioka Station, the dance is taking place in front of station.  I saw the traditional Sansa dancing with a slow and graceful tone by chance.

morioka1 at the station
morioka1 at the station

Sansa dancing festival and food may make you feel some influence from Korean culture, for example,  Five colors in the clothes, noodles, grilled meat.

Let’s go out early and participate in a free dance class held at the prefecture hall.   In Sansa Festival  the beginners welcome to the circle of dancing.

Detour (with Beer !)

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tono-go hachimanngu shrine
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Kanto Festival (Akita Prefecture)

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Akita is a rice-produching region.  Kanto lanterns shining in the night sky represent a bountiful harvest of rice in coming Autumn and praying for an end of epidemics like that Gion Festival in Kyoto prays.    It is interesting that many festivals both in Japan and abroad, now and in the past, are held to pray for the warding off of epidemics.

The kanto hand over the pillars to the next person while adding a piece of pillars, showing an exquisitely balanced pose each time.    The completed kanto reaches 12 meters high and weighs 50 kilograms, and the pillars are largely bent.   “The boughs that bear most hang lowest.”  This really embodies the proverb.


akita kanto7 a child who take out something decoration when the pose is decided
akita kanto7 a child who take out something decoration when the pose is decided

If you want to see Kanto at night, you should reserve a seat in the front row of the median on the main street. It is so powerful that the lanterns collapsing in front of you.

Discover a genius boy mixed with adults! As soon as he strikes an exquisitely balanced pose, he pulls out various projectiles such as fans from his chest and enjoys everyone around him.

During the daytime, the festival holds competition to compete in techniques to support the Kanto in various positions(one hand, forehead, sholder, waist !).  Even at night, you should look down, not up.

Let me briefly explain the rules. use only one hand.   Do not go beyond the 6m diameter circle.   Change technique according to the signal (every 30 seconds).   If playing an instrument, change the tune.    In my opinion, good athletes keep their balance by slightly shifting their heels.    If you can’t afford to stay overnight in Akita, I recommend you watching the daytime competition.


akita competition1 lotus flower
Lotus flower (Junsai is one of familly) around Akita Castle

Detour

Make sure you have something to eat in advance for a long enjoying.   There is a market near the station where you can eat rock oysters from the Oga Peninsula.   You can also choose Akita’s famous sake from the list pasted on all over the wall.   The fact that “junsai” can be eaten with sake is proof that the water is delicious.  “Inaniwa udon” (Japanese noodles), which is eaten in the middle of summer, cools down to the core and releases the summer heat.

 

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Hachinohe-Sansha Festival (Aomori Prefecture)

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Stages with dolls in gorgeous costumes protrude in all directions(10m height, 8m width) from the decorated floats, and ancient stories unfold on it.   A long time ago, inspired by the movie “Truck Guy”, trucks decorated with lights transported supplies throughout Japan late at night.  It seems to have originated in Hachinohe.   If you are fun to watch NHK new year’s eve red-and-white singing contest program,  the mechanism could remind you of the famous singer, Sachiko Kobayashi.    Anyway, you are overwhelmed by its gorgeousness.

Packed decration float during the day on the road

I passed by the folded float during the day, and was impressed by how compact it was folded.

hacchi preparade1 packed decoration
hacchi preparade1 packed decoration

Cavalry battle similar to polo in Chojasan-Shinra-Shrine

Yabusame can be seen anywhere in Japan, but cavalry battles can only be seen here.  A horse divided into red and white throws its own ball into the goal while disturbing the opponent’s ball insertion. It’s hard to reach the goal even if there are no obstacles. Prizes are given to the winners by the descendants of the Nanbu clan lords.

hacchi cavalry7 disturb the opponent
hacchi cavalry7 disturb the opponent

hacchi cavalry15 tired~
hacchi cavalry15        tired…..tired…..tired…..

The Best Detour

The northern Tohoku region was a large living area during the Jomon period (the era when people changed from hunting to sedentary life).   Gassho, meaning to join hands,  clay figurine was excavated in Hachinohe.   This is the only clay figurine with the spiritual meaning of gassho.

Dinner of mackerel dishes and market for breakfast

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enburi at brewery (1)
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Chagu-ChaguーUmakko (Iwate Prefecture)

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chaguchagu2 takizawa village
chaguchagu2 takizawa village

It takes place on 2nd Saturday of June.   Iwate, especially the north of it, named ‘Nambu’ has been a horse production ares.   A pair of sculpture in front of shrines as a guardian ae sometimes changed from dogs normally to horces.   Humen and horses live together under the same roof in the countryside.  Humen  pray their health and safe and the road of pray had became the parade from countryside(Takizawa village) to Morioka city of more than 100 horses dressing up which are nurtured with care in each house.

chaguchagu4 rest
chaguchagu4 rest

*)It takes almost half day on foot(14km) when you follow the parade, so it is a good idea to stay ahead of the curve using trains(st.Aoyama,etc).   The parade takes breaks on the way several times and then nursing baby horses get milk from their mothers.

chaguchagu6 morioka city
chaguchagu6 morioka city

At last, poud parade groups marches through Morioka city and Sansa Dancing welcomes them early in advance the festival season without controling their impulse.

chaguchagu5 rest
chaguchagu5 rest

 

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