Numerous waterfalls created by the eruption of Mt. Aso

harajiri fall6

The area was completely covered by pyroclastic flows from the great eruption of Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago, and the heat of the eruption transformed this into welded tuff.     As it cooled further, its volume contracted, creating countless long vertical cracks, and subsequent erosion revealed columnar joints that can be seen everywhere.     This is clearly visible in the waterfall.

Bat Falls

You can’t get close to the waterfall, it can only be seen from above, the road isn’t shown on car navigation systems, and the road to get there is so narrow that even a compact car would likely go off the rails, so the whole experience of getting there is filled with a sense of unease and a sense of being in a remote area.    Suddenly, a parking space and a space to turn around appear. This is thanks to the local people who have maintained the area.     Please check the entrance (“Park golf course” sign) from the main road (National Route 502) and the terrain from an aerial photograph beforehand.     Cars cannot pass each other, but it seems that the road has been widened recently.

bat fall2
bat fall2

The waterfall is shaped like a bat with its wings spread, and in the Edo period, a wooden slide was built on part of it to allow ships to pass through.     People in the past were amazing.     The Kuju mountain range can be seen beautifully beyond the waterfall.     It’s a place worth visiting.

Harajiri Falls is like Niagara Falls

The collapse of the tuff rocks over a width of 120m created a circular waterfall similar to Niagara Falls.     The waterfall and the surrounding scenery are so beautiful that they make you think of a movie set or Disneyland.    There is a suspension bridge that offers a panoramic view of the falls, but once you cross it the road is closed off beyond that point.

harajiri fall6
harajiri fall6

Chinda Falls

The collapse occurred over a width of 100m, creating a 20m-high step.     It is famous for being depicted in a sumi-e painting by Sesshu during the Muromachi period.    Unfortunately, the original painting was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake, and only copies remain.    Sesshu also painted Amanohashidate in Kyoto, so people really did travel a lot by foot in the past.

chinda fall by sesshu source yuagariart
chinda fall by sesshu at source “yuagariart.com”
chinda fall
chinda fall

In modern times, a dam was built behind the falls to generate hydroelectric power, and the structure remains.     At first, I thought it was just part of the falls.    The welded tuff that forms the foundation of the waterfall is a geology that is weak against vertical shocks, and has repeatedly collapsed due to being unable to withstand large-scale flooding.     As a result, the waterfall has gradually moved upstream over a long period of time.  Kyushu Electric Power Co. reinforced the rocks around the base of the waterfall, and now it is in its current form.     Even man-made structures like dams can sometimes help preserve the natural landscape.   There was a lot of water and it was making a roaring noise.

 

 

 

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This is Little Kyoto, Taketa Old Town

taketa9 earthen wall of samrai residence
taketa8 aso mountains
taketa8 aso mountains
taketa7 hirose lieutenant
taketa7 hirose lieutenant

Taketa City is famous for the ruins of Oka Castle, a castle built on top of a cliff.  It is the motif of the song “Kojo no Tsuki” (Moon over the Ruins of the Castle) composed by the musician Rentaro Taki, but I’ve already been there so I’ll pass this time.    I took a walk around the old town, which I hadn’t been able to see last time.     It’s a town with a sense of history like Kyoto.     I was surprised to see a bronze statue of Lieutenant Hirose, who carried out the Port Arthur blockade operation during the Russo-Japanese War.     I didn’t know he was from here.    After the operation, the Japanese Navy, led by Commander Togo Heihachi, faced off against the Russian Baltic Fleet, which was said to be the most powerful fleet in the world at the time.

In one corner of the samurai residence is the Hidden Christian Cave Chapel, giving the area a sense of its rich history.

Finally, we had a special lunch (reservation needed in advance) at Okura Shimizuyu, a café that was once a bathhouse.     Apparently, his parents own a vegetable shop next door, so they served us a variety of vegetable dishes.     I couldn’t finish it all.     They even served us matcha green tea.

taketa35 fukujyuenn distilled spirits factory and shop
taketa35 fukujyuenn distilled spirits factory and shop

Our final stop was a barley shochu brewery in town, where we had the opportunity to try a variety of shochu while the proprietress was busy on her way to Tokyo to attend a wedding.

 

 

 

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Getting lost in search of a water source in Ubuyama Village

yamabuki water source5

The village of Ubuyama, located on the outer rim of Mt. Aso, is a laid-back place.     The outer rim area is made up of many alternating high hills and deep valleys, and once you enter a valley, it’s hard to tell where you are.    There are countless water sources in these valleys.     One of them, the Yamabuki Spring, has been selected as one of the 100 famous water sources in Kumamoto Prefecture, and gushes out 30 tons of water every minute.    The way the green and autumn leaves of the trees are reflected on the clear water is beautiful.

ubuyama village3 ohgi tanada (rice terrace)
ubuyama village3 ohgi tanada (rice terrace)

Please note that navigation systems do not work this far, so you need to keep a close eye on the map.     The terrain is so complex that it is difficult to know where you are once you enter the valley of the outer rim of the volcano.    There are stacked fan-shaped rice terraces nearby, and you’ll want to take photos of the way they are filled with water before rice planting and the stars reflected in them at night.

ubuyama village4 cattle grazing
ubuyama village4 cattle grazing
yamanami22 calf
yamanami22 calf

There are also pastures everywhere.    There were calves right in front of the Yamanami Inn, but I hope it wasn’t used as an ingredient in the barbecue at the inn last night.     There is also a buffet with nearly 30 kinds of homemade pickles.     I was impressed that even these things can be made into pickles.     If you can’t finish rice, they will make it into rice balls for you to have as a midnight snack.

yamanami9 pickles as you like
yamanami9 pickles as you like

 

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Mount Kuju, a mass of multiple volcanoes, loves sweets

climbing19 hossho mountain and nishisenrigahama

Mount Kuju is a place where you can enjoy a leisurely day of mountain hiking without having to stay overnight.    However, here I would like to introduce a short 2-hour round trip trek to Mount Kuju, which shows off enough a variety of different faces, and the rewards that are well worth it.

climbing1 start from makinoto mountain pass
climbing1 start from makinoto mountain pass

I would like to see the whole mountain covered in pink Kirishima Azalea flowers in May or June, but I have heard that the mountain gets congested.     In the end, I end up just taking pictures of the line of climbers that stands out against the pink mountain.    So this time, I went in late October to search for autumn leaves.

The easiest way to get to the summit is from Makinoto Pass along th road, which gives you the highest altitude possible as the starting point.

 

 

At first, the mountain trail is a long, gradual concrete slope that can be tiring.     However, you can get past this point and head towards Mount Kutsukake.

Along the way, you can see Mt. Yufudake and the Aso mountain range, and at the end you can enjoy the autumn foliage of Mt. Hossho and Ohgigahana.     I didn’t see anyone wearing high heels up here, but you can climb in normal shoes.    The area around the summit of Mt. Kutsukake is full of rocks, but after that the trail continues along a gentle ridge.     If you have the stamina and time, you can go a little further.

 

chez tani
chez tani

A detour or a reward (Sweets Restaurant)

Return to Makinoto Pass and head south, cross the pass and the Aso mountain range will come into view, and you will then see Chez Tani Senomoto-Kogen store.    The view of the Aso mountain range from the full-length windows is a sight to behold, but the 90-minute cake buffet for 3,300 yen is a menu that will make you forget all about it – a menu that is sure to satisfy any desire.    If you can’t do something like that, the 1500 yen 2 cakes set with drinks is enough.     The cake portions are too big, so you forget to enjoy the view.

chez tani showcase
chez tani showcase
chez tani aso from window
chez tani aso from window

 

 

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The charm of Kikuchi Gorge is its deep pools

kikuchi gorge9 tengu and dragon fall

The entrance is located quite a way down the slope from the northern outer rim of Mt. Aso to the west.     This gorge has an abundant amount of water and is deep, so the sun does not penetrate to the bottom of the gorge.    That’s why the color of the pool is a deep blue and mysterious.      The only time the light penetrates to the bottom of the gorge, illuminating the curtain of water vapor rising from the pool, is early in the morning in early summer, when the gorge is apparently occupied by many photographers.

kikuchi gorge3 reimei fall
kikuchi gorge3 reimei fall
kikuchi gorge7
kikuchi gorge7

It’s a two-hour circular course that goes up and down and doesn’t have many ups and downs, but for some reason it takes longer than that.    Perhaps it’s because you’re bathed in negative ions and there are a series of spectacular waterfalls and pools.

kikuchi gorge12 430thousands fall
kikuchi gorge12 430thousands fall

For your refference, I recommend sevral as below.

  1. Narugo Gorge(Miyagi Prefecture)
  2. Hugging Gorge(Akita Prefecture)
  3. Nakatsugawa Valley(Fukushima Prefecture)
  4. Geibikei Canyon(Iwate Prefecture)
  5. Oirase Valley(Aomori Prefecture)

Detour    (Aso Skyline Observatory)

There are several observation decks on the outer rim of Mt. Aso.     The most representative of these is Daikanbo, which juts out slightly into the caldera basin from within the outer rim, and from there you can see the Aso mountain range directly ahead from due north.    However, it takes a little time to get to the top of the observation deck, including the walking time, and the Aso Skyline Observatory solves this problem.     The observation deck is right on the side of the road.     It is on the way to Kikuchi Gorge.

aso viewpoint9 nirvana statue
aso viewpoint9 nirvana statue
aso viewpoint10 kuju mountains on somma
aso viewpoint10 kuju mountains on somma

Detour   (Lunch time)

Going back a little to Minamioguni Town, in a really small basin surrounded by mountains, there is an apple mint herb garden and a natural food restaurant called “Kaze no Mori (Forest with wind).”    I love the plate with colorful vegetables, so I always stop by here.    You can enjoy a leisurely lunch while looking at the farm.     The assortment of various herbs is a great deal.

 

climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
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Yamanami Highway is Mountain wave itself

yamanami highway7 aso view

The Yamanami Highway is a road that connects Yufuin to Aso, passing through the Kuju mountain range.     The scenery overlooking the mountain range changes rapidly, and the road has moderate curves, so you can enjoy an exhilarating drive while listening to music.    Along the way, stop at the observation deck where you can get a full view of Mt. Yufu-dake.    Mt. Yufu-dake is also known as Bungo Fuji, and its summit is made up of two well-balanced peaks.     Although it is different from the shape of Mount Fuji that is generally associated with it, the Mount Fuji as it is called in various regions is probably a mountain that constitutes a representative mental landscape of each region.

Just because you’re not driving doesn’t mean you should fall asleep.     This is a route where you should enjoy the beauty of mountain waves.    It’s especially amazing to pass through the Kuju mountain range to the south and see the Aso mountain range in the sunset from the pass.

We descend the mountain and head towards my usual lodging, Kurokawa Onsen Sanga, as the silver grass sways and sparkles towards the sunset.    I came here again looking forward to the food.     I apologize for the photos being all about food.     But every dish and its tableware is a work of art.

Kurokawa Hotspring “Sanga”

 

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Castle town Kitsuki with picturesque slopes

kitsuki castle town9 accounting place slope
kitsuki castle town3 vinegar house slope
kitsuki castle town3 vinegar house slope

I wonder how to read this kanji of city name as Kitsuki.    It is composed of the kanji characters for pestle, which is used to knead rice cakes, and construction, so it seems to be auspicious.    Even more auspicious, this kanji is also used as part of the address of Izumo Taisha Shrine where The god of nation building is enshrined.    There is a theory that the place name originated from a typo on a red seal letter (a document guaranteeing territory) given to feudal lords by the shogunate, but is this true?

 

 

kitsuki castle town13
kitsuki castle town13

Kitsuki is also said to be one of the Little Kyotos, but what exactly is a Little Kyoto?     There is an organization called All Japan Kyoto Committee, which all cities across Japan that are considered Little Kyotos join, and the three requirements for membership are that a city have a landscape similar to Kyoto, historical ties, and traditional industries and performing arts.    Onomichi City is also a member, but what is missing in Takehara City(*), which calls itself Little Kyoto and is close to Onomichi?     Or is the membership fee too high?     Or is Onomichi opposed to joining?     I wonder if there are various adult reasons for a city like this to join.    It seems like it’s very difficult for new members to join either the EU or NATO.

(*)After looking into it more closely, I found that Takehara City was a member but withdrew on its own, and Onomichi City has now also withdrawn.     Is the name value of Little Kyoto no longer effective?    This may be due to the diversification of tourism appeal.

Anyway, it seems like it’s popular to take photos on the slopes in kimono.    There are a lot of kimono rental shops.    It’s a quiet and nice town.    The castle town of Kitsuki is made up of samurai residences built on two plateaus running east to west, and merchant houses on the lowlands surrounded by these plateaus.    That’s why there are slopes everywhere.    When you go up to one plateau, the other slopes seem to be right in front of you, so it makes a great picture.   If you walk along the southern plateau to the eastern end, you will see Kitsuki Castle as if it is floating on the sea.     This is also worth seeing.

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The Kunisaki Peninsula is a training ground with a series of strangely shaped rocks

nakayamasenkyo yaba viewpoint1 left
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo20
nakayamasenkyo20

Although the elevation is only 300 metres, the tension of climbing up rocky terrain at such an incredible height is perhaps due to its steepness and the excellent views.    Nakayama Senkyo is a place that tests your courage, with a series of chain sections, narrow stone bridges(Mumyo bridge) where stones support each other to cross valleys, and knife-edge saddles(Uma-no-se; horse back), and is not the kind of place you would casually go trekking.

The Ministry of the Environment calls it the Kunisaki Peninsula “Minemichi (Mountain road)” Long Trail and recommends it, but it is truly a training ground.     I don’t recommend it on windy days.  (On the other hand, the ”Michinoku” Coastal Trail, which was restored after the Great East Japan Earthquake, is recommended even on windy days.)    However, once you reach the top, you can see the strangely shaped rocks and peaks, and beyond that the Seto Inland Sea.     Jizo statues are watching over you from every angle.

Once you go ahead beyond the top, you’ll struggle to find the way down.    There’s a hidden path to the rear left at a sharp angle, so if you miss it and go ahead, you’ll find yourself suddenly faced with a sheer cliff, losing track of your position and panicking.    I almost panicked too, but I calmed down and walked back to the path, where I found the entrance to the descent, but it was a long downhill climb from here to the bottom.

The circuit course starts from Reisenji Temple and takes at least two hours to complete.

Detour

Overlooking the rice fields of Tashibu-no-sho, once a manor in Kyoto, is a home-style restaurant called Shiki-sai, where it is a play on words between the four seasonal ingredients and color combinations.    It is located exactly halfway between Nakayama Senkyo and Kitsuki old town.

I always drop by this restaurant because they serve elaborate dishes using unexpected ingredients, but it’s hard work because the owner does everything by herself.    Even if you make a reservation, it’s better to contact her in advance to confirm.

 

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