When Katsushika Hokusai was nearly 90 years old, he was invited to stay in Obuse four times by a patron from Obuse whom he met in Edo. He was said to have walked 250km one way in 8 days, so even though he was almost 90 years old, he had great physical strength to walk 30km a day. That’s probably why the paintings had such power. The last ceiling painting in his later years is in Gansho-in Temple. In addition to Hokusai’s paintings, it is also famous as the place where the haiku poet Issa Kobayashi wrote a haiku about frogs, and the mausoleum of Masanori Fukushima, a man of great service in establishing the Toyotomi government, who was demoted to Obuse by Tokugawa Ieyasu. During the off-season, community buses are not running, so you have no choice but to walk towards the mountain.
obuse gansho-in (2)famous for Hokusai ceiling painting
obuse gansho-in (1)
obuse gansho-in (4)mausoleum of Masanori Fukushima
obuse gansho-in (3)famos for Issa haiku
An old guide with a strong voice explains that the phoenix drawn is a symbol of longevity, and that is why plants such as pine trees drawn on its body were growing. The paintings were drawn directly on 12 cypress boards and pasted together on the ceiling, and since they used a lot of gold leaf and pigments ordered from Edo, the patron must had been very wealthy. When I sat in the recommended sitting position, the phoenix’s eyes looked extremely sexy. This must be a picture drawn by an old man who was almost 90 years old !
ceiling paint by hokusai (Source: Gansho-in Temple website)
There is also the Hokusai Museum in town, where paintings drawn on the ceilings of festival stalls are on display.
Although it has nothing to do with Hokusai, there is Jokoji Temple, which has a beautiful thatched roof, near Gansho-in Temple. This temple is famous for its slackline club. That’s why the World Cup of slackline was held in Obuse for the first time in Asia.
When we arrived at the center of Obuse town, a large group of young tourists got off the large bus. It seemed like they were on a graduation trip, but it’s rare to see so many young people coming together in groups at tourist destinations in Japan. Japan’s tourist spots are now filled with energetic old people or foreigners who have benefited from the weak yen. This site, however, is disseminating information to non-Japanese people.
obuse scenery (4)
obuse scenery (5)
obuse scenery (6)
The first thing I noticed in Obuse was that each house and plot of land was large, and it was far more spacious than in Tokyo. Also, since there is no shopping street itself, there are no shuttered streets that are often seen, and there are no abandoned houses. Perhaps because of this, it has the feel of a rich country town. This area is also an alluvial fan, and fruit trees such as grapes and chestnut trees are cultivated on the farm.
obuse scenery (2)
obuse scenery (20)
obuse scenery (3)
This town does not give the impression of being depopulated or deserted at all. Although it only has a population of 10,000 people, it is famous as a chestnut production area that has continued since the Edo period. During the chestnut harvest season, long lines form in the morning for the seasonal fresh chestnut sweets, but you can enjoy chestnut sweets all year round along with delicious Italian cuisine at Evolve, which is a sister store to the famous store.
evolve lunch (1)entrance
evolve lunch (2)
evolve lunch (3)
evolve lunch (4)
evolve lunch (5)
evolve lunch (6)
evolve lunch (7)
evolve lunch (8)chestnut sweet
There are sweets shops all over the place, and you can enjoy all kinds of chestnut sweets. I wonder if the young group who got off the large bus came looking for these or rare sake from this region, but I couldn’t trace them after that.
I headed to the Nagaden Railway station, Zenkoji-shita to go to Obuse. More than just a means of transportation, the Nagaden is a sacred place for both mania riding a train (“Nori-tetsu”) and mania taking photos of trains (“Tori-Tetsu”).
Walk down to the east from Zenkoji Temple at the top of the alluvial fan, go underground to Zenkoji-Shita Station, get on one station back toward Nagano Station, and board the limited express. Limited express tickets cost 100 yen, but front seats of the limited express can be reserved online for 300 yen. I wonder why the reserved tickets are more expensive than the limited express tickets.
As soon as I got on the train, the mania riding trains occupied the front observation seats and took video. Yes, this train is an old model of the Romance Car that Odakyu Railway had been running between Shinjuku and Hakone, and Nagaden Railway traded it in and is running it as an observation train. It’s difficult to reserve a front observation seat in Tokyo, but my dream can come true on Nagaden Railway. But, I am not a mania riding trains.
nagano dentetsu scenery (7)
In addition to the Romance Car, the JR 253 series Narita Express, which was used to access Narita International Airport, also runs under the name Snow Monkey. It’s not like the people on the train are monkeys. It was named this way because zoos along the railway line often show monkeys relaxing in hot springs during snowy winters, and capyparas are now also shown relaxing in hot springs at zoos.
nagano dentetsu snow monkey
nagano dentetsu monkey decoration
Exit the underground, cross the Chikuma River, get to Suzaka on double track, and from here on single track. The mountain range of North Shinetsu is beautiful. There is a train depot at Suzaka Station, and there are old 03 series cars that ran on the Hibiya Line. Come to think of it, I thought the car I rode on my way back to Nagano Station from Obuse was a Tokyu 8500 series.
This area was the site of a major flood caused by a typhoon five years ago, and the Hokuriku Shinkansen depot along the Chikuma River was submerged under water, causing many Shinkansen cars to be scrapped. On the other hand, although the Nagaden Railway line is meandering, it does run on a slightly higher ground. Was it a matter of foresight that the route was designed to avoid areas expected to be submerged?
Just 80 minutes from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, you will arrive at the snow-covered city of prayer. The exterior design of the Nagano Station building is an homage to the main hall of Zenkoji Temple. Daimon, entrance of Zenkoji, is about a 10 minute bus ride from bus stop number 1 in front of the station. The best time to visit is early in the morning when there are fewer worshipers on the approach, and this is when the shops on both sides of the approach open their shutters.
hokuriku bullet train
nagano station
The pair of statues of A-un at the Niomon gate is powerful and reminds us of the statues made by Unkei at Todaiji Temple.
niomon1
niomon2
niomon3
sanmon1 approach
The Sanmon Gate finally comes into view in front of us, and it reminds us of the Sanmon Gate of Chion-in Temple in Kyoto, or the Sanmon Gate of Nanzen-ji Temple, where the great thief Goemon enjoyed a spectacular view from the top of the gate. When you climb up here, you can see Nagano city below and the surrounding mountains, but you can also feel that Zenkoji is located at the top of the alluvial fan.
sanmon2
from sanmon1 nagano city
sanmon3 plaque
The name of Zenkoji is written on the plaque on the temple gate. Normally people would be excited to find the five pigeons hidden inside the kanji, but I’m more curious about why the name of the temple is written on the plaque when the mountain name is usually written on it. Returning to the topic of looking for pigeons, it is difficult to find the last one, but the biggest hint is that its tail is visible. Just find it on site.
zenkoji eko pillar
I also asked the security guard at the temple gate and was convinced that there was still a knowledge hidden in this plaque. At Zenkoji Temple, an Eko (memorial service) pillar is erected in front of the main hall once every six years in order to connect with Maedachi on behalf of the principal image, and touching this pillar is a major event. Speaking of Zenkoji Temple, there is a famous story called
“Visiting Zenkoji Temple being pulled by a Cow”
in which a woman who did not believe in Buddhism got her costume caught in the horns of a cow, and the woman chased after it to get it back and ends up visiting Zenkoji Temple. The cow was an incarnation of Buddha. The face of the cow and the Kanji character of a sheep, animal 6th year after a cow year in the Chinese zodiac, are hidden in this Zenkoji plaque.
from sanmon2
from sanmon3 kyozo
from sanmon4 hondo
Now, we finally enter the main hall, but since the attraction here is famous, where you search for the key to connect with the principal image in the dark, you can’t help but head towards the entrance of an altar tour first. Then, the monk who guides tourists inside the temple scolds them, saying, “What’s wrong with going into someone’s house and not greeting the Lord?” Then you notice that the principal image of the Buddha, which should be located directly in front of the center inside the main hall, is now to the left of the center. To the right of the center is a statue of the Lord of the house and his family. The monk explains that Zenkoji is not actually a temple, but Zenko-san’s private residence, and the Buddha is enshrined there. So, first of all, you have to say hello to the Lord.
By the way, I couldn’t get enough of being scolded, so I asked him about the secret Buddha statue, which even the head priest of Zenkoji Temple had never seen, how big it was and what it was made of, and he answered smoothly that it was 1 sun and 8 shaku (about 54cm) tall and made of gold. The story is about Mr. HONDA Yoshimitsu (Zenko), a local civil servant, who picked up a Buddhist statue that had been abandoned (due to the Mononobe clan’s anti-Buddhism movement during the Asuka period) in Namba (Osaka) while on a business trip. The story is that since people didn’t know about the existence of Buddha or the value of gold at that time, no one would have paid any attention to it even if it was thrown away. It makes sense, but I wonder if that’s true.
Afterwards, Minamoto no Yoritomo also visited Zenkoji Temple, and the secret Buddha statue was brought out by Takeda Shingen and returned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In any case, it was famous enough to be talked about at the time. By the way, when you look up at the ceiling, you can see the pattern of the chrysanthemum crest. The monk boasts that this is proof that the Imperial family donated the money.
entrance of altar tour at zenkoji (Source: Zenkoji HP)
Now it’s time to tour the altar. At the entrance, hold your luggage in your left hand and run along the wall with your right hand to touch the key that connects to the principal image above. It’s getting darker and darker, and I’m afraid to take a step forward. I don’t think anything will come out, but it’s scarier than a haunted house. I suddenly feel anxious and want to hold on to something or someone (=> Buddha) to guide me. This is the purpose of the altar tour. At first I thought that if someone lost something in the pitch darkness, the monk would look for it with a flashlight, but as the tour progressed, the darkness made me forget that.
zenkoji pine tree
zennkoji pagoda
zenkouji the person who invest rinzo
Finally, go to the sutra. I’m amazed at the opportunism that by rotating the octagonal receptacle that holds the sutras by hands, you can get the same merit as reading all 7,000 volumes of sutras. I heard that the weight of the storage receptacle is 5 tons, of which 1.2 tons are sutras, but does the difference of 3.8 tons relate to merit?
