The Jomon cultural area can be found in unexpected places. The Suwa regionhas long been famous for the area because we know that the Jomon people came from all over Japan to search the place of production of obsidian, the raw material for arrowheads. But the Hokkaido/Northern Tohoku Jomon Archaeological Sites, which are registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, had gone completely unnoticed (no attention was paid to them). They lived in Hokkaido and northern Tohoku, separated by the strait, for over 10,000 years, forming the same cultural sphere. We know that they were part of the same cultural sphere because the clay figurines and pottery normaly made by women are almost the same and especially the patterns on them are the same, which means that women of the same blood traveled between these cultural spheres.
Cleaning staff in charge of cleaning around korekawa Jomon Museum
There is the Korekawa Jomon Museum in the outskirts of Hachinohe, where there is a clay figurine with palms together in a sitting position as the National Treasure. I have never seen a sitting position before. This clay figurine has female genitalia, so she may be praying for childbirth or a child. We know that people have been praying with their hands together since the Jomon period. The Venus of the Suwa region as the National Treasure also looks like a pregnant woman.
korekawa ruins1 palms together clay figurine
Also close to Hachinohe Station is Kushibiki Hachiman Shrine, the guardian deity of the Nanbu clan that has been in operation since the Kamakura period. Hachiman Shrine is a shrine that offers eternal good fortune in war, and as such, armor and helmets from the Kamakura and Nanboku-cho periods are enshrined there. However, these national treasure armor and helmets are more magnificent works of art than armor suitable for fighting.
This shrine also has something unique: at the entrance to the shrine, there are a pair of guardian lion statues, but here they are horses statues. On the side of the main shrine there is a wooden carving of a kappa being trampled by a hawk because of its mischievous behaviour. Later, when the Nanbu clan was transferred to Tono in Iwate Prefecture, this kappa legend was transferred with it and forms part of the Tono Stories.
Detour
The Sannai-Maruyama ruins, part of the Hokkaido/Northern Tohoku Jomon Archaeological Sites as a UNESCO-registered cultural heritage site, is located near Shin-Aomori Station on the Shinkansen line. Traces of a village that existed for nearly 2,000 years during the Jomon period remain vividly. Large-scale raised-floor buildings and pit dwellings have been restored.
The dance, representing cultivating the fields in the face of the harsh natural environment and praying for a good harvest, has been designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. The name Enburi comes from the name of a farm tool used to plow fields. The event is scheduled to be held every year from February 17th to 20th, in the middle of the coldest weather, making it an incredibly spirited time to awaken spring. The dancer wears a eboshi hat shaped like a horse’s head, and dances magnificently, swinging his head from side to side. This can also be seen in hip-hop dance, which includes snake choreography.
kojokaku (3)
kojokaku (4)
8000 brewery (9)eboshi hat
8000 brewery (7)
8000 brewery (6)eboshi hat
Teams are formed in each region and the tunes and movements are passed down. There are two types of Enburi: the slow and graceful “Naga-enburi” and the fast and heroic “Dosai-enburi.” In the former, one dancer wears an eboshi hat with a peony flower and other dancers surround him performing different dances, while in the latter, all dancers wear eboshi hats with five-colored tassels and perform the same dance. The dance movements represent the entire process of rice farming, from sowing seeds in the seedbed, to plowing the field with a horse, planting the rice, and finally harvesting. Furthermore, children (and occasionally the elderly) perform blessing performance, which is positioned as something to enjoy during breaks from farm work. The performance includes dancing with hoops that have coins attached to them, dancing with pine branches, and sea bream fishing. It seems that spectators sometimes attach gift money to the end of fishing hooks.
<Dosai-Enburi by Nukatsuka team>
<Naga-Enburi by Nakaibayashi team>
The teams are invited to perform Enburi at various stores and can be seen all over town during the festival. The Tourist Association has also created a separate event program and arranged a public stage. The highlight of this program is the “Garden Enburi” which takes place in the courtyard of Kōjōkaku, a mansion of a former financial clique family in Hachinohe that is now registered as tangible cultural property, located in the center of Hachinohe. You can watch the evening Enburi while sipping on sweet half sake and rice cracker soup in a tatami room. Reserved seats are sold at the convenience store Lawson from one month in advance, so if you want to watch the show, you should definitely reserve a seat in the first row. The competition for the first row seats is fierce. If you’re in the first row luckily, you can set up a video tripod. Heat packs are distributed to all audience and there is a bonfire, but in any case, you’ll be watching outside in the cold, so you’ll need to wear clothes to protect yourself from the extreme cold.
kojokaku (1)entrance
kojokaku (2)
kojokaku (5)
kojokaku (6)
garden enburi at kojokaku (1)
garden enburi at kojokaku (2)
garden enburi at kojokaku (3)
garden enburi at kojokaku (4)
garden enburi at kojokaku (5)
garden enburi at kojokaku (6)
garden enburi at kojokaku (7)
garden enburi at kojokaku (8)break
garden enburi at kojokaku (10)
garden enburi at kojokaku (12)
garden enburi at kojokaku (9)
The second recommendation is the “Brewery Storehouse Enburi” that Hachinohe Shuzo(Brewery) accepts only during this season as a set with a tour of the brewery. Online reservations are required, but there is less competition than for the Garden Enburi. Here, in a warm room, you can enjoy some excellent sake while watching the dancers perform right in front of you, almost touching them, making it the perfect opportunity to see their intricate movements. During this period, several tours are scheduled, so you can check out both Naka-enburi and Dosai-enburi. It seems that the brewers at this brewery are also participating in one of the groups. To get to Hachinohe Shuzo( Brewery), you’ll need to take the JR Hachinohe Line from Hachinohe Station to Mutsuminato Station, or take a bus from downtown Hachinohe, but it’s quite close.
enburi at brewery (4)
enburi at brewery (5)
enburi at brewery (6)
enburi at brewery (2)
enburi at brewery (3)
<Brewery storehouse Enburi(Dosai) by Hashikami-Toriyabe team>
Sake brewing is also at its peak at this time of year, so we recommend visiting the two major sake breweries: Hachinohe Shuzo, where you can enjoy the Brewery storehouse Enburi performance, and Hachinohe Shurui, located in the city center and with a modern shop building. Buying sake is a bulky process, but Hachinohe Shurui is surprisingly good at shipping sake with other manufacturers at a low price. I bought two 1.8L bottles at Hachinohe Shurui and had them delivered.
<Hachinohe Shuzo>
8000 brewery (1)entrance
8000 brewery (2)
8000 brewery (8)
8000 brewery (3)
8000 brewery (4)ridge tag
8000 brewery (5)account book in Meiji era
8000 brewery (10)
8000 brewery (11)
<Hachinohe Shurui>
8 tsuru brewery (1)shop
8 tsuru brewery (6)inside shop
8 tsuru brewery (5)
8 tsuru brewery (2)entrance
8 tsuru brewery (4)water
8 tsuru brewery (3)malt production room
Detour
Hachinohe Shuzo is located near JR Mutsuminato Station. It is close to the Tatehana Wharf where the huge and chaotic morning market is held, but of course the market is not open in the middle of winter (though it does have a special market during the New Year). However, in front of the station, there is a fish and vegetable market in a building that is open from morning until noon, and everything is very cheap. Sashimi(sliced raw fish) is also packaged in individual portions, so you can choose what you like, and if you order additional rice and miso soup at a table in the back, you can have a decent meal.
mutsu-minato (10)station monument
mutsu-minato (11)market
mutsu-minato (12)breakfast at market
Also nearby is Minato Shokudo(dining room), a popular restaurant on social media, where you can try their seasoned flounder rice bowl, although you may have to wait in line (in fact, if you write your name in a notebook at the reception desk, they will call you on your mobile phone when it is your turn). Apparently, in good seasons, you may have to wait 2-3 hours, but this was my fourth visit to Hachinohe and the first time I tried it, it was mid-winter, so I only had to wait an hour. Most people arrive on the JR Hachinohe Line and wait in line, and when you board the two-car train at Hachinohe Station, you have to get in directly behind the driver’s seat in the front car because Mutsuminato Station is an unmanned station and the driver of the one-man train also checks the tickets of passengers getting off from inside the train. I didn’t notice it at first, and assumed that all the doors would open if I pressed the button beside doors when I got to the station, but I was surprised when everyone moved to the front. Only one door in the front car opened because of the ticket gate. I later found out that all of these people were heading to Minato Shokudo! After getting off at the unmanned station, I made a furious dash and overtook about 10 people, but the enemy came in a group of several people, and one of the faster runners got in line first, and the person I had overtaken got in front of the line.
mutsu-minato (1)for Jaws station
mutsu-minato (2)queue
There was nothing to do during the hour-long wait, so I decided to take a walk to the free observation tower (Grette Tower Minato) on the cape beyond Tatehana Wharf and stared blankly at Hachinohe Port, which turned out to be quite enjoyable. To the east we could see Kabushima island, where black-tailed gulls had not yet arrived because it was not yet spring, and to the west we could see the majestic snow-capped Mount Hakkoda, and to the south we could see downtown Hachinohe and the forest of Chojayama Sinra Shrine, which is the venue for the polo matches at the summer Sansha Festival, as if they were right in front of us, and the hour passed by in the blink of an eye. Needless to say, the long-awaited seasoned flounder rice bowl was as delicious as SNS had said. For an additional 200 yen, you can have the miso soup turned into Hachinohe’s specialty rice cracker soup, but there’s no rice cracker soup with a more delicious broth than this one, so be sure to order it. After that, we once again made a mad dash to Brewery storehouse Enburi, for which we had a reservation starting at 2 p.m.
mutsu-minato (4)
mutsu-minato (5)harber
mutsu-minato (3)kabushima island
mutsu-minato (6)hakkoda mountains
mutsu-minato (8)cafeteria
mutsu-minato (7)cafeteria
mutsu-minato (9)cafeteria
mutsu-minato (10)cafeteria
Go back to itinerary(Hachinohe where you can enjoy the four seasons)Go back to itinerary(Colorful and spiritual Festival in each region)
Stages with dolls in gorgeous costumes protrude in all directions(10m height, 8m width) from the decorated floats, and ancient stories unfold on it. A long time ago, inspired by the movie “Truck Guy”, trucks decorated with lights transported supplies throughout Japan late at night. It seems to have originated in Hachinohe. If you are fun to watch NHK new year’s eve red-and-white singing contest program, the mechanism could remind you of the famous singer, Sachiko Kobayashi. Anyway, you are overwhelmed by its gorgeousness.
hacchi parade1 treasure boat
hacchi parade2 carp on the waterfall
hacchi parade6 1
hacchi parade4
hacchi parade3 Yang Guifei (the Best)
hacchi parade6 2
hacchi parade6 3
hacchi parade6 dojouji
hacchi parade8
hacchi parade7
hacchi parade11 demon extermination
hacchi parade9
hacchi parade10
hacchi parade12
hacchi parade13
hacchi parade14 Taro Urashima and princess
hacchi parade15 1
hacchi parade15 umihiko and yamahiko
hacchi parade16 happy new year
Packed decration float during the day on the road
I passed by the folded float during the day, and was impressed by how compact it was folded.
hacchi preparade1 packed decoration
hacchi preparade2
hacchi preparade3
hacchi preparade4
hacchi preparade5
Cavalry battle similar to polo in Chojasan-Shinra-Shrine
Yabusame can be seen anywhere in Japan, but cavalry battles can only be seen here. A horse divided into red and white throws its own ball into the goal while disturbing the opponent’s ball insertion. It’s hard to reach the goal even if there are no obstacles. Prizes are given to the winners by the descendants of the Nanbu clan lords.
hacchi cavalry7 disturb the opponent
hacchi cavalry1
hacchi cavalry2 concentrate his own color ball
hacchi cavalry3 goal
hacchi cavalry4
hacchi cavalry5
hacchi cavalry6
hacchi cavalry8
hacchi cavalry9
hacchi cavalry10
hacchi cavalry11
hacchi cavalry12
hacchi cavalry13
hacchi cavalry14 prize
hacchi cavalry15 tired…..tired…..tired…..
The Best Detour
The northern Tohoku region was a large living area during the Jomon period (the era when people changed from hunting to sedentary life). Gassho, meaning to join hands, clay figurine was excavated in Hachinohe. This is the only clay figurine with the spiritual meaning of gassho.
hacchi clay figurine2 national treasure
hacchi clay figurine3 national teue mark
hacchi clay figurine1
Goats are cleaners around the museum
Dinner of mackerel dishes and market for breakfast
hacchi mackerel dishes1
hacchi mackerel dishes2
hacchi mackerel dishes3
hacchi mackerel dishes4
hacchi hauchi
hacchi stall
hacchi market1 sun rise
hacchi market2 st.Mutsuminato
hacchi market3 300yen breakfast
hacchi market4
hacchi market5 lunch box on express
Go back to itinerary(Colorful and spiritual Festival in each region)Go back to itinerary(Hachinohe where you can enjoy the four seasons)
Lake Towada is not far behind from Mt.Aso (in Kumamoto prefecture) as ‘Caldera Topography’. In the past, the subduction of the Pacific plate produced magma and many giant caldera volcanoes existed. The Caldera outer ring mountain is huge so always I’m wondering which mountain pass to choose as a panoramic view point.
Hakka Pass is too famous and you can find delicious apples, etc. with cheap price at the souvenir shop there but “Kankodai” is very calm especially at twillight.
We have visit Lake Towada even twice searching for nice weather. On the other hand we had also visit Mt.Aso even twice ! We never get tired of watching the caldera terrain.
Is there something like this? Even thought it’s the highlight of the tourist spot ! But few tourists and the roof of trees as an umbrella made us refreshing.
oirase valley waterfall here and there
Surprisingly a few person walk* from Ishigedo to Choshi-Ohtaki for 4 hours. Walking road almost goes along the Oirase river and is flat like the flow. Let’s watch slowly calm flow and attractive waterfalls here and there. Choshi-Ohtaki(big waterfall) flown from Lake Towada welcome you at the goal. Coincidentally we saw the moment when part of the waterfall wall collapsed with explosive sound. I’m sure the wallrock broke along the columnar joints.
choshi big waterfall
*)You can pick up a bus almost every hour at several bus stops on the way. If you use a rental car, it would be difficult to find out your parking space at Ishigedo in high season, especially weekend.
At Ishigedo, the cup of coffee using Oirase flesh water after long walk was full of bliss !
Highlight from Ishigedo to Choshi-Ohtaki(click photo)
Many photographers visit Tsuta swamp for the bright red autumn leaves illuminated by the morning sun. Therefore, general vehicles are restricted from early morning except for the shuttle bus during this period. You’ll have to choose between booking the historical hotel near here or giving up on the relaxing breakfast at other hotels to get a shuttle bus. Fortunately or unfortunately, we enjoyed a calm and fresh walk in the light rain. The hotel will lend you an umbrella and boots.
tsuta swamp
tsuta swamp right
The bathtub of Tsuta Hot Spring is deep and is filled with overwhelming hot water. And don’t forget that there is a fresh hot spring right under the bathtub. You can directly receive the blessings of the earth with delicious dinner.
The origin of the name Hakkoda Mountains seems to be that there are many shell-shaped peaks and marshes. Therefore, it is a very complicated terrain. So the next tragedy may have been born.
What comes to mind at Hakkoda Mountains is the 1902 distress of 200 people during the snow march training of the Japanese Army. It seems preparing for the war against Russia. Meanwhile, another unit was also training at the same time, and it is said that it passed through the distress scene but was kept secret.
suiren swamp at hakkoda in autumn
Most travelers look at the rugs of autumn colors on the Hakkoda ropeway, but those who love the countryside want to immerse themselves in a quiet place. The route going through from Sukayu hot spring to Tsuta hot spring, which is opposite side of the distress, is one of my favorite driving roads. Stopping by at Suiren swamp is strongly recommended because Mt.Hakkoda mountains reflect on the surface of the swamp on a sunny day and in the silence, wild birds and toads ! (big frogs) echo their voices in the distance. Hell swamp with strong acid water near Sukayu hot spring, the photo of which is indicated on the top of this blog page, is also charming.
If you travel connecting Shirakami mountains and Hakkoda mountains or Lake Towada, going through Jougakura bridge is highly recommended especially in autumn season. The color around the bridge changes into red.
autumn leaves from bridge
You can walk on the bridge safely after parking at the edge of it. But strong winds on the bridge take away heat from the body.
center of bridge plate
Look down like a bird at the middle of the bridge ! Deep valley 122m below the bridge is trying to swallow you. The river is so acidic that no fish can live in it.
bird eyes
There is Sukayu Onsen(Hot Spring), the bath of which is made of Hiba wood and can accommodate 1,000 people at a time, but it is also strongly acidic and it makes you tingle when you take a bath, so be careful of people with sensitive skin. It is famous for mixed bathing, but there is a place to take it individually in the back.
On the way to Shirakami mountains (World Heritage), we drove through HIROSAKI city which is famous for apple production and Mt.Iwaki the shape of which is similar to Mt.Fuji.
The road connects many apple farms. Silver sheets under trees reflect sunlight and apples turn into red. The price of apples is rising due to typhoon damage nationwide, so be sure to buy fresh apples at the production area. It is said that “Apples don’t need a doctor.”
Mt.Iwaki (Tsugaru Fuji)
You can reach Shirakami mountains through this road seeing Mt.Iwaki named Mt.Tsugaru-Fuji with apple trees.
It is easy to approach the entrance to World Heritage, but places inside where a tourist could reach by himself were limited. Furthermore ‘Anmon Fall’* was closed due to typhoon damages. You should chose between to be satisfied with a glance or to spend all day. Next time I would like to challenge with a guide.
kumagera tapping the tree
*)There are many approach routes to the heart of Shirakami mountains. ’Twenty ponds walking course’ is easily accessible from the sea side with public transportation and you can feel variety of nature.