Yabakei is an old volcanic plateau that has been transformed into a series of strangely shaped rocks due to erosion. There are places called this way all over the country (For example: Dakikaeri Gorge in Akita Prefecture), but they are concentrated in the northern part of Oita Prefecture. When Yukichi Fukuzawa, an enlightenment thinker and educator from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period and a founder of Keio University, learned that one of these, his hometown of Kyoshuhou, was going to be sold, he apparently bought the land and protected it without using his name. It was the forerunner of the National Trust movement in Japan.
In addition, the priest of Rakan-ji Temple (Arhat Temple), whose temple complex clings to a gigantic rock wall, spent 30 years digging a hand-dug tunnel called the Ao-no-domon to enable people to safely pass through the difficult access points of this Yabakei to worship. This cave is located at the foot of Kyoshuhou.
The writer Kan Kikuchi was inspired by this real story and created a masterpiece called “Beyond the Enemy.” The main character learns that the person he has found to avenge himself is actually a priest who is excavating the tunnel, but in order to achieve revenge as soon as possible, he helps dig the tunnel together, and when it opens, he abandons his desire for revenge. This is the synopsis of his novel. That’s why the title of the work is “Beyond the Enemy.”
By the way, the true story is that after the tunnel opened, Ao-no-Domon became the first toll road in Japan to collect tolls, but the money was used to pay for the construction costs of hiring masons, so it can’t be helped. The chisel and mallet used for hand digging are displayed in the hall next to the entrance to the chair lift that takes you up to Arhat Temple, so don’t miss them.
I think Arhat Temple was also built so that it clings to a rock wall like that. If that’s the case, I wonder if it would have been better to build the temple in a safer place, without the need for tunnels, from the beginning. If that happens, all the good stories I’ve introduced here will be lost. In any case, there is something about Yabakei that moves people’s hearts.
Yabakei is cool or “Yabai !” in Japanese.