Revenge Aso under the blue sky

aso highway6 shiroyama view point

I was finally able to visit the core of Aso.    Last time, I couldn’t see the whole thing in the rain clouds, but there was a swell of sticky lava, exposed bedrock towering as far as the eye could see, and it looked like there were cordons like construction sites all over the place.

When you look at it, you can feel that it is a volcano that is still active.   The most recent eruption occurred in October 2016.    Crater regulation information is updated daily, so if you don’t check it before you visit, you’ll be missing out even if the weather is nice.

Shiroyama view point on the edge of somma

Aso approach

Aso crater and Kusasenri (The grass stretches for a thousand miles)

Aso cattle are grazed on the mountain path along the way.    If you approach them carelessly, their eyes will turn bright red and threaten you.   I have seen bullfights, and when the fighting instinct comes to the fore, the bull’s eyes become bloodshot.    I’m looking forward to tonight’s beef steak.

kuju highway2
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Arched stone bridge created by God

stone bridge futamatabashi1

Each arched stone bridge in Kumamoto prefecture exists in exquisite balance with the weight of the thousands of stones that make up it, and the shape is beautiful.    It is said that there are approximately 320 existing stone bridges in Kumamoto, but why are there so many stone bridges in Kumamoto?    Many factors seem to have contributed to this, including the presence of easy-to-work welded tuff formed by the Aso pyroclastic flow nearby, the presence of a technical group of masons, and the fact that people who learned Western techniques in Nagasaki moved there.   There is also a story that the designer of stone bridge was even threatened with his life by other clans due to his high technical skills.    This stone bridge is the result of a divine work.    The steps involved creating an arch-shaped wooden frame according to the blueprint, fitting stones into it from above, and finally removing the wooden frame.

kintai bridge5
refer to kintai bridge

Around the same time, a huge wooden arch bridge was built in Iwakuni. This is Kintaikyo Bridge.

stone bridge tsujyunkyo2 Anna and the Beast
stone bridge tsujyunkyo behind “Anna and the Beast”

Anyway, the Midori River basin in southern Kumamoto Prefecture is full of stone bridges.  Some are stone bridges for people to cross valleys, but many are also used to carry waterways to irrigate higher ground.    A typical example is the Tsujun Bridge, but for some reason there is an object depicting “Beauty(Anna) and the Beast” in front of it.   Let’s visit your favorite stone bridge.    Depending on the time of day at Futamata bridge, light from the arch opening and light reflected on the river surface overlaps to form a heart shape.

stone bridge futamatabashi2
stone bridge futamata

Furthermore, in order to distribute the precious water carried by stone bridges to the fields, it is necessary to distribute the water equally in proportion to the cultivated area.   A mechanism for this purpose is a circular water diversion system, in which water rises from the center of the circle using a U-shaped pipe, spills into partitions set up along the circumference in proportion to the cultivated area, and is distributed in various directions.    You can see places where this device is still in use today.   You might read the same story at the travel note “Akita in winter”.  Forthermore, there is one in the metropolitan area as well as in Mizonokuchi in Kawasaki City.

A detour

Mizutama (Polka dots) cafe, a cafe tucked away on top of a mountain.    A good place to relax and do nothing.    Aso can also be seen in the distance.

It’s difficult to get here. Don’t overlook the small landmarks at junctions on narrow roads.   It seems that reservations are now required recently.

Another detour

Yuen railway octagon tunnel
Yuen railway octagon tunnel

At first glance it looks like an octagonal tunnel, but numerous so-called nut-like shapes are lined up along the cliff.    Although it is the remains of a former railroad (Yuen railway), it seems to be a preventative measure against landslides.    There seems to be a demonic realm ahead, but at the end of the tunnel is a tranquil landscape.

Yuen railway after tunnel
Yuen railway after tunnel

 

 

 

 

 

 

aso statute of nirvana left
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A ray of light in the pouring rain in Aso

aso horse grazing

When traveling to enjoy the scenery, the weather is crucial.    The scenery shines with the reflection of light, and the wind with just the right amount of humidity makes you feel refreshed.    The sun is great!    But this time, it’s the complete opposite.    The rain was pouring down so hard that I couldn’t even step out of the car in Kusasenri, so I turned on the heater inside the car max to stay warm.

aso shelter
aso shelter

Still, the eruption alert level for Mt. Aso is at its lowest level, so this is a great opportunity to get up close.    As we braved the wind and rain, a shelter covered with thick concrete suddenly appeared in front of us.   I am reminded of the recent incident on Mt. Ontake in Kiso where climbers were caught in volcanic bombs.   Then, for a moment, an emerald blue volcanic lake could be seen through the gap between the clouds and volcanic smoke.    The weather was terrible, but it was an unforgettable sight, even though it was only for a short time.

After lunch at an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town, I went to Daikanbo, which has an observation deck for Aso mountain range, without high expectations.    Although the clouds were not clear, I could see the Aso mountain range, which has been compared to the reclining statue of Buddha, and the somma with deep valleys surrounding it.    It’s not all that the weather is bad.    It seemed like a ray of light was shining.

Detour (an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town)

Overnight at Kurokawa Onsen ”Sanga”

The garden is well-maintained while retaining the atmosphere of deep in the  mountain, but I was surprised to learn that it was all planted by hand.    I fell in love with the richness of the ingredients and the delicious taste, and now I stay here regularly.   It seems that all the accommodations in Kurokawa Onsen are wonderful, but I hope that the regular accommodations do not suffer from the negative effects of overtourism.

aso statute of nirvana left
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