The name of the valley is “Akasai Valley”. It is usually read as “Akanishi”, but this is the Kansai way of reading it. I happened to see a website that said “Oirase Valley in the west,” but I think the people of Tohoku might have hurt their pride by saying something outrageous (⇒ see a trip on Oirase Valley).
The above is Oirase valley resemble to Akasai valley, simiar to Oirase valley?
I had a suspicion that I had never heard of a valley comparable to Oirase Valley, so I thought I had been fooled and wanted to check it out, so I decided to make this my main purpose for this trip.
akasai valley map
The valley is located on the border with Tottori Prefecture, making it difficult to reach. Moreover, cars are not allowed inside the valley, so you will need to rent an e-mountain bike at a nearby roadside station. However, this is cheap at 1000 yen for 2 hours. After being thoroughly instructed on the functions of the bike by a kind clerk (Listen carefully as this will be important later), we set off. After getting used to the controls on the first paved road, we finally headed out onto the gravel road in the valley. If you get stuck in a rut and try to force your way out, there is a risk that the handle will be grabbed and you will fall. Come to think of it, if one person gets hurt and can’t move, the other one should abandon him and come back to the roadside station to inform the emargency. In other words, there is no cell phone service in the valley.
akasai valley (1)
akasai valley (2)
akasai valley (3)
akasai valley (5)
akasai valley (4)
akasai valley (6)
akasai valley (7)
The road along the valley used to run on a forest railway used to transport lumber, so there are no steep slopes, and the valley runs along the road all the way, so you can enjoy forest bathing while looking out at the valley as you head deeper into the valley. I thought the water would be murky because of the heavy rain that came in the linear precipitation belt early in the morning, but the clear water was flowing down between the moss-covered rocks of various sizes. Ah, this feeling definitely reminds me of Oirase Valley. As I went deeper, that belief became more and more certain.
akasai valley (8)
akasai valley (10)
akasai valley (9)
akasai valley (11)
akasai valley (12)
akasai valley (13)
akasai valley (14)batterfly
Along the way, you will also see the scenery that was used as the title back for the NHK historical drama “Gunshi Kanbei,” who was a tactician for Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Even though it was a hot summer, I was able to get to the place where I could ride my bike in the natural air conditioning of the forest within an hour without meeting anyone. I was able to enjoy a rich time. I brought a bear bell just in case, but no bears have been spotted in this valley yet. In autumn, the entire area could be covered with autumn leaves.
The return trip is downhill, although the slope is small, so be careful and brake only on the rear wheels. I was so fascinated by the Oirase Valley that I almost slipped and fell twice. The water from the valley is the drinking water for the city and the brewing water for sake breweries.
I used to think that suspension bridges were built out of necessity, but seeing this made me realize that they were purposely built in places where they didn’t need to be built, just to make people feel scary. Many people walk on the suspension bridge, which looks just like a wide pedestrian bridge. Although the suspension bridge uses fairly thick wire rope, you can still feel some sway. There is a magnificent waterfall that can only be seen from here, but the scale of the view from the suspension bridge is so large that the waterfall feels small.
Once you cross the suspension bridge, you will see a building that looks like a haunted house at the festival venue. In front of the house, there was a crowd of people who seemed to be hesitating whether to enter or not. This place holds a spectacle where customers can touch and hold white snakes in hopes of attracting financial luck. I was reluctant to enter, but my companion was blinded by financial fortune and we decided to enter.
suspension bridge6 white snake named toguro
suspension bridge7 white snake named makitsuki
When I pay, the thick curtain in front of me opens and I come face to face with two white snakes. One of them is called “Toguro,” which coils itself on my hand, and the other is “Makitsuki,” which wraps around my arm.” No matter who holds them, these snakes maintain the same posture as their namesake, so these must be their favorite poses. The touch was unlike anything I had ever felt before, neither cold nor warm, and I was filled with the desire to return them as soon as possible. In the end, it was the people at the show booths who were lucky to make money.
Detour
Tonight we will be staying at Kiyasuya in Sujiyu Onsen, but Sujiyu Onsen is also home to a famous public bathhouse “Utase-yu.” The name Sujiyu originally came from the fact that the hot spring ingredients are effective for soothing tired muscles, but the public bath is an ultimate hot spring where the hot spring water is dropped from a height of about 3 meters to soothe the body.
Before the shuttle bus group arrives, take a lecture at the Brown Bear Information Center about how to climb the mountain. The important thing is to know what to do to avoid encountering a bear, and I have hardly ever thought about what to do in case I do come across one. Even if you wear a bear bell, it will be drowned out by the sound of the river around the stream. If you are a certain distance away from a bear you encounter, you will back away while looking into the bear’s eyes, and if you are attacked at close range, you will protect your neck with your hands under your backpack, but what would you do if your hands were bitten by bear? All you can do is decide not to think about encountering such a thing. The exit from the center is also on your way home, so make a donation or buy some goods from the center to show your appreciation for the safety efforts.
brown bear info center
brown bear info center explanation of precautions
Now it’s time to tour the swamp. One circuit clockwise takes 5 hours, but the second half is downhill so you will need some climbing equipment. If you turn back at Kogen-numa(swamp) just before the deepest Sora-numa, you won’t need any mountaineering equipment and can return in 4 hours round trip. If you look at the map, you can see that this is a place where the mountain collapsed and created swamps, but it is a fairly long mountain trail and should not be considered a hike. It is better to at least wear mudguard spats on your foot.
Source Excerpt from the Ministry of the Environment website
(Source: Excerpt from the Ministry of the Environment website)
Final descending time for each of the three major swamps is announced, and instructors are always on standby there regardless of the weather. I felt that it was hard work for the instructors to call out to every climber, but since they were standing all the time without even ringing a bear bell, so I thought that calling out to them was also a measure against bears. (I’m sorry.) Early morning and evening are prime times for bears to be seen.
red demon will catch you
At this time of final descent, few people will associate it with the red demon of the Mt. Rokko traversal competition (Kobe City). I once participated in a competition where I ran 48 km of Mt. Rokko from Suma to Takarazuka in one day. A red demon will chase you from the last place, and at each checkpoint it will display how many minutes it will take to arrive, and if you are overtaken by this, you will be told that the race is over and you will not be able to complete the race. Furthermore, when you finish the race, you will receive a small shield to prove your completion. The next day, my body was in shambles.
Now, go back to the tour. For the first hour, you walk through wetlands dotted with skunk cabbage that looks like it’s been devoured by bears,
to dohyo-numa (1) skunk cabbage eaten by bear
to dohyo-numa (1)
to dohyo-numa (2)
to dohyo-numa (5) surveillance camera for bear
to dohyo-numa (6) bear feces
to dohyo-numa (8) yanbe tappu stream
to dohyo-numa (9) yanbe tappu stream
to dohyo-numa (11) caution for bear
to dohyo-numa (12)
If you’re lucky, you might be able to spot the brightly colored wild bird, the Ginzanmashiko,
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (2)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (3)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (4)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (5)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (6)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (7)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (8)
dohyo-numa
basho-numa
And then you arrive at Takimi-numa. There are many temples in Kyoto with wonderful gardens, but Takimi-numa surpasses them in its ultimate natural beauty. The exquisite balance between the close-up view of the swamp and the distant view of the colorful autumn leaves arranged like a folding screen on the slope is out of this world. You can enjoy it on both sunny and even rainy days.
takimi-numa 2
takimi-numa (1)
takimi-numa (3)foggy
takimi-numa (4)foggy
takimi-numa (2) foggy
Midori-numa, which appears next to Takimi-numa, has an open landscape and is one of swamps with final decending time set. Each swamp has a completely different look.
midori-numa
midori-numa (2)
midori-numa (8)
midori-numa (10)Please bring your own toilet waste container
midori to yuno (1)bear feces
midori to yuno (2)wooden path materials
midori to yuno (3)
midori to yuno (4)small river crossing
midori to yuno (5)
midori to yuno (6)
yuno-numa
kamo-numa
After a while along the mountain trail, you will come to Ezo-numa. It appears to be a swamp formed like a terraced rice field at the edge of a slope, but the end of the break in the trees in the middle seems to be a waterfall over there, and the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is nothing short of beautiful.
ezo-numa (1)
ezo-numa (2)left
ezo-numa (3)left-center
ezo-numa (4)center-right
ezo-numa (5)right
When you walk further, you will see the cliffs of Takanegahara and Shikibu-numa where the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is also beautiful.
ezo to shikibu (2)
shikibu-numa (1)left
shikibu-numa (2)center
shikibu-numa (3)right
As you climb further, Daigaku-numa appears at the foot of the cliff.
daigaku-numa (0)
daigaku-numa (1)
daigaku-numa (2)
The turning point, Kogen-numa, will be just around the corner. If the weather is good, you can see Mt. Midoridake over there look like the mountain is wrapped in red sashes of autumn leaves. Time is up here. Before I knew it, the light rain had gotten heavier, so I turned back.
kogen-numa
return point (2)
return point (1)
return point (3) looking over at daigaku-numa
return point (4)
go back to midori-numa
daisetsu kogen onsen ramen after swamp tour
It took about 5 hours round trip as I went slowly. After eating up some warm ramen at an inn in Daisetsu Kogen Onsen, I headed straight to New Chitose Airport. There was no time to stop by to see the Sounkyo waterfall. The road along the way is covered in terrain full of columnar joints.
First, write your name in the climbing record book at the management office at the entrance to the mountain trail. It takes about 15 minutes to reach the ridgeline, so you just keep going up the mountain trail with no views until then.
ginsendai 1 entrance
ginsendai 2
Once you reach the ridgeline, there are a series of spectacular views. A brocade of autumn leaves spreads across the huge flat slope.
ginsendai 4
ginsendai 5 forcus
Don’t be satisfied here, let’s at least go to Daiichi Hanazono (First Flower Garden). It’s less than an hour from the parking lot. The view of the sea of trees below is amazing from here, and you’ll want to dive with your whole body.
ginsendai 6 left
ginsendai 7 center
ginsendai 8 right
ginsendai 10
ginsendai 11
ginsendai 12
ginsendai 13 left
ginsendai 14 right
A little further ahead is a rocky area where pikas live. It is a small animal of the lagomorph family that survived the Ice Age and physically resembles a mouse. Listen carefully and look in the direction of the sound. They move quickly, and the bottom of the rocky area is a passage for pikas, so you can see their faces from various angles. This is also cute. There is a regular photographer with a telephoto lens, so it’s a good idea to ask him/her about various things.
Hei-rin-ji Temple was named after the flat (“Hei” in Japanese) forest (“rin” in Japanese). Friendly and easy to understand. The entire vast precinct is colored with autumn leaves, and there is a walking path within the precinct. If you go to the back, there are places where the leaves have not turned autumn yet, so you can enjoy the gradation. But anyway, it’s hard to take a detour. You have to take a bus from Hibarigaoka station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.
heirinji temple walking map
heirin temple15 promnard of backyard
heirin temple1
heirin temple2
heirin temple3
heirin temple4
heirin temple5
heirin temple7
heirin temple8
heirin temple9
heirin temple10
heirin temple12
heirin temple13
heirin temple14
heirin temple17
heirin temple16
heirin temple18
heirin temple20
heirin temple19
heirin temple22
heirin temple21
heirin temple23
Hibarigaoka is a famous place that was developed as a mammoth housing complex to meet the demand for new families to live during the time when Japan’s population increased explosively due to the baby boom. The housing complex is on the opposite side of the station from Heirinji Temple, but renovations have progressed and some of the former housing complexes are now being used as shops, one of which is a café that serves giant pancakes. It’s baked after you order it, so please look forward to it.
Chichibu is a place where you can see that the ocean floor strata have sunk beneath the Japanese archipelago due to the mantle, and have come to the surface. The limestone from Mt. Buko, which is still being scraped away, was a concrete material that supported Japan’s period of high economic growth, but it originally came from coral reefs in the Pacific Ocean.
nagatoro rock tatamilegs holding on crystalline schist
Nagatoro’s rock tatami is made of crystalline schist, which forms thin horizontal cracks (like puff pastry) when the pressure on the rock that was buried deep underground is released.
nagatoro3 left
nagatoro4 right
nagatoro6 left
nagatoro7 right
nagatoro9
nagatoro8
nagatoro5 rever rafting
“Tsukinoishi Momiji Park” is literally translated in English to “moon stone and maple park.” “Moon stone! ” Does this indecates the first one collected by Apollo and exhibited at the Osaka Expo 1970 ? That’s what you could think. It’s confusing because it’s said to have been named after the phrase “moon stone” that appears in a haiku written by a Meiji haiku poet. Maple trees grow in clusters on the west bank of the Arakawa River that runs through Chichibu, so when you come up from the river, you can see the red leaves of the maple trees shining in the clear setting sun.
When you get off at Agano Station, you will see the station plaza, which is not very popular for sightseeing. Following a group of energetic elderly people who have finished their warm-up exercise in front of the station, we follow the group up and down the narrow cliff-top path and mountain path along the railroad tracks until we arrive at the entrance to Togo Park.
seibu railway agano station
seibu railway walk along rail1
seibu railway walk along rail2
chichibu mitake shrine entrance
chichibu mitake shrine3 black cat
chichibu mitake shrine2 cosmos
togo park2
Chichibu Mitake Shrine and Togo Park coexist there. A little further up, you will see a blanket of bright autumn leaves surrounding the bronze statue of Marshal Togo. From there, the autumn leaves continue all the way to the mountain.
togo park1
Along the way, the actual deck of the battleship Mikasa, which was the flagship during the Russo-Japanese War, is on display, with many holes punched by cannonballs. This is also the shrine that deified Mr. Togo Heihachiro, who defeated the Russian fleet.
togo park4 deck of battleship Mikasa in Japan-Russia war
At the top of the stone steps, you will reach the main hall of the shrine, but it can be flinching to climb up such a steep slope. You can enjoy the autumn leaves without even climbing. I have never seen a mountain so bright red during the autumn leaves.
togo park6
togo park5
togo park7 long stairs
togo park8 chichibu mitake shrine
togo park8 view
togo park9
togo park10
togo park11
By the way, there are many names of places near the mountains of Saitama Prefecture that are reminiscent of Korea. It is said to have originated during the Nara period in Japan, when people who fled from Goguryeo, which had been destroyed by the Tang Dynasty, were given a place to settle from the goverment. This kind of history is not learned in Japanese history. There has been a lot of exchange with the mainland since ancient times.
(*)There is a road that goes into the mountain along the railway from the Agano mining site. Believe in yourself and move on.
Goal to Chichibu (detail of Soba restaurant “Nagomi”)
The only way to get to Nagomi is to walk 20 minutes along a mountain path from Bushu Hino Station on the Chichibu Railway. However, it is a soba restaurant that is worth the walk. The restaurant serves only 50 meals a day, and for the first meal, the owner gets to sample the finished product. On the way, I don’t think I’m the only one who gets surprised when someone calls out to me, “It’s dangerous,” when I cross an unmanned railroad crossing. Who is that voice?
The literal translation of the Japanese word Onikobe into English is the head of a demon. The name Onikobe comes from a legend that during the Heian period, the heads of powerful people from the Tohoku region conquered by Sakanoue Tamuramaro were flown to this area. A little further back from Naruko Dam is Onikobe Hotspring, which is famous for its geysers.
naruko dam (2)
naruko dam (1)
Hell valley is nearby, but I’ve never seen many tourists on it, and it’s a wild trail with geysers all over the promenade that erupt out of too hot water as you walk. There is a puddle of hot water in the middle that continues to bubble up, so if you put a raw egg in there and pick it up on the way home, you’ll end up with perfectly soft-boiled eggs. If you don’t prepare a spoon or chopsticks in advance, the boiled eggs that cannot be removed will end up becoming manure in the fields.
hell valley (5) before geyser
hell valley (6) caution with arrow
hell valley (7)geyser
hell valley (1)
hell valley (2) scared
hell valley (3)
hell valley (4)
hell valley (8)
hell valley (9) eggs boiled
hell valley (10)
Detour 1
Naruko Gorge in late autumn, a month after the peak of its autumn leaves, has a dry look. The deep cliffs of the gorge give it an even more rugged look.
naruko gorge late autumn (2)
naruko gorge late autumn (3)
naruko gorge late autumn (4)
Detour 2
Iwadeyama was once the stronghold of the Sendai Date family, and its descendants established an academic school called Yubikan. There is a wonderful garden with Iwadeyama Castle in the background.
yubitei in iwadoyama (1)
yubitei in iwadoyama (2)
yubitei in iwadoyama (3)
yubitei in iwadoyama (4)
yubitei in iwadoyama (5) castle in the background
yubitei in iwadoyama (6)
yubitei in iwadoyama (7)
yubitei in iwadoyama (8)
yubitei in iwadoyama (9)
yubitei in iwadoyama (10)
Detour of Detour
A balloon festival is held in late November mainly on the riverbank at Iwadeyama. In short, there are no obstacles around, the wind is good, and the crops on the large cultivated land have finished harvesting, so this is the time. There are events where you can ride a balloon moored and see it from above for free. However, only 150 numbered tickets will be distributed in the early hours of the morning, so you will need a lot of guts. Moreover, tickets are only given out to people who lined up to get numbered tickets, so even if you line up alone, you won’t get a ticket for your family. If you bring children, it’s a good opportunity to test their mettle, but if the weather is bad, you should be prepared for the fact that the numbered tickets will only serve as souvenirs.
For backpackers coming from Sendai, I recommend getting off at the next station, Nakayama-daira Onsen, instead of Naruko Onsen Station (2.5 hours by JR from Sendai). The reason for this is that you can briefly glimpse the core of Naruko Gorge that you are about to see between the tunnels passing through the gorge, and the walk from the station to Naruko Gorge is short (about 30 minutes) and there is a flat footpath.
naruko gorge from train (2)
However, as soon as you get off the train, you’ll see a quiet village that makes you wonder if you’ve made a mistake. On the way to Naruko Gorge, you can see the steam rising from the hot spring village where the hot springs are gentle on the skin. You can stop by on your way home.
walk from nakayamadaira station (1) hotspring
walk from nakayamadaira station (2)
walk from nakayamadaira station (3)
walk from nakayamadaira station (4)
walk from nakayamadaira station (5)
walk from nakayamadaira station (6)
Naruko Gorge suddenly appears at the end of the pine forest. When viewed from the top of a steep cliff, it looks like a series of folding screens of autumn leaves.
not just naruko cover photo
naruko gorge view point (1) left
naruko gorge view point (2) center
naruko gorge view point (3) right
naruko gorge upper (4)
naruko gorge upper (3)
naruko gorge upper (5)
naruko gorge upper (6)
naruko gorge upper (2) train
In the gorge at the bottom right, you can clearly see the railroad tracks that the train passed through earlier. Many photographers are ready to take pictures of the train coming out of the tunnel exit on the cliff covered in autumn leaves.
Feeling depressed about the prospect of climbing back up, I descended from the steep cliff for 15 minutes and arrived at the deepest part of the gorge surrounded by cliffs covered in autumn leaves (Kaiko Bridge).
naruko gorge deepest part (9)
naruko gorge deepest part (1)
naruko gorge deepest part (2)
naruko gorge deepest part (3)
naruko gorge deepest part (4)
naruko gorge deepest part (5)
naruko gorge deepest part (6)
naruko gorge deepest part (7)
naruko gorge deepest part (8)
naruko gorge deepest part (10)
naruko gorge deepest part (11)
naruko gorge deepest part (12)
Returning to the top of the cliff, you can see the deep meandering of the Otani River, which created Naruko Gorge, from the midway point of Ohfukasawa Bridge, which is located directly above the Kaiko Bridge.
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (1) panoramic view
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (2) left
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (3) left
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (4)
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (6)
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (7)
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (8) directly below
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (9) right
Beyond that bridge is the entrance to a quiet road that Edo period haiku poet Matsuo Basho wrote about in his travelogue on Oku no Hosomichi (about 45 minutes on the Ohfukasawa Promenade). There is “Shitomae barrier for defense” nearby.
ohfukasawa promenade (1)
ohfukasawa promenade (2)
ohfukasawa promenade (3)
ohfukasawa promenade (4)
ohfukasawa promenade (5)
ohfukasawa promenade (6)
ohfukasawa promenade (7)
ohfukasawa promenade (8)
ohfukasawa promenade (9)
ohfukasawa promenade (10)
ohfukasawa promenade (11)
ohfukasawa promenade (12)
ohfukasawa promenade (13)
ohfukasawa promenade (14)
ohfukasawa promenade (15)
ohfukasawa promenade (16)
“Shitomae barrier for defense”
The literal translation of the Japanese word naruko into English is a crying child. There is a theory that Naruko was named after the cry of a child that Minamoto no Yoshitsune’s wife gave birth to while he was on his way to Hiraizumi, and that the place was named “Shitomae barrier for defense” because the child urinated there for the first time.
Basho is said to have been suspicious of this barrier official when he was leaving for Yamagata, and he also wrote a poem in which he woke up to a horse urinating on his bedside in the stable of a private house where he was staying in the constant rain. However, it is said that this is just an exaggeration since they probably won’t be able to sleep in the stables. When I read that haiku for the first time, I believed it with all my heart.
What conditions make it feel like a resort? It is important not only to have a good view, but also to have a painterly color and a quiet atmosphere.
venus line (3) mt.tateshina
venus line (2) white birch
Perhaps it’s because the white birch (Shirakaba in Japanese) forest looks completely white and gives off a feeling that can’t exist in the ordinary world. So why are pure white birch forest areas created? This is because seeds in the soil stay dormant until the conditions are right, and when a forest fire or landslide leaves a ruin, they all switch to germinate all at once in order to suppress other plants and monopolize the area where they can grow as quickly as possible. That’s why there’s a white forest all around, so it’s beautiful. However, the lifespan of a tree is about 70 years, so the expression “beautiful and short-lived” can also be applied to these trees.
Lake Shirakaba View Point
shirakaba highlands (1) left kurumayama
shirakaba highlands (2) center shirakaba lake
shirakaba highlands (3)right yatsugatake
Although it looks like a picturesque scene, Lake Shirakaba in the center of photos is actually an artificial lake. There is a restaurant called Asahigaoka on this lakeside that serves very delicious soba noodles. It’s more like a private house than a storefront. You can also eat rainbow trout caught in Lake Shirakaba. This is real, not artificial, indeed.
shirakaba highlands (6)
shirakaba highlands (5) soba at asahigaoka
shirakaba highlands (8) sibukawa maron
shirakaba highlands (7) nijimasu
Detour (Goddess View Point on the way of Venus-Line)
menokami viewpoint (1) left
menokami viewpoint (3) center right central alps
menokami viewpoint (4) right
Detour (Going down to Lake Tateshina on the way of Venus-Line)
