Points that everyone misses at the World Heritage Site Himeji Castle

himeji castle(2)with cherry blossoms

Himeji Castle was the first place in Japan to be registered as a World Heritage Site, along with Horyuji Temple in Nara.    In addition, there are 12 castles that still have castle towers from the Edo period, and of these, the castle with its imposing appearance is the one you want to visit first.    The reason for this is that in its 400-year history, it has never been destroyed by war, nor has it suffered any damage in modern wars, so it remains as it was in the past.    Furthermore, the tiles and walls are hardened with white plaster to protect against wind, rain, and enemy attacks. This gives the entire castle a pure white appearance, and it is so elegant that it has been compared to the white heron, which is common in western Japan.

himeji castle(8)
himeji castle(8) sarcophagus

The structure of the castle is made up of many layers of moats and walls, like a spiral escargot, making it difficult to reach the castle tower.    If you take a photo with the castle tower in the background, you will end up having to press the shutter too often, so be careful.   By the way, there was a shortage of stones for the stone walls when castles were being constructed, so sarcophagi from the Kofun period were used as the stone walls for the gates and the stone mills that the residents used in their homes are embedded in the stone wall, so don’t forget to keep an eye on them.

There is also a ghost story about Himeji Castle called Banshu Sarayashiki.    There was an incident in which an undercover female spy sent against a vassal who betrayed his lord was killed for losing one of ten family heirloom plates, and was thrown into a well by the vassal.   After that, every night a woman could be heard counting the number of plates up to nine from inside the well.    This well is located within Himeji Castle and is named after a woman, “Okiku no Ido” (the well of Okiku).   It’s below the castle tower.    Don’t miss it.

By the way, there is a famous rakugo story based on this ghost story.    It is said that if you hear Okiku counting nine or more pieces, you will die, so a show hut was built around the well.   The hut is crowded with customers who have seen something scary, and Okiku counts up to nearly nine, but the customers are in a state of panic because the exit is narrow and they can’t escape.   Okiku finally counts more than 10 cards to 18, but no one dies.    What did Okiku say at that time?   To find out what happens next, please go to a vaudeville where rakugo is being performed.    Looks like things are going well later.

 

sun flower field
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The stonework in Obi is too manic

obi walking
obi (9)ito connection
obi (9)ito connection

How many Japanese people can read the kanji “Obi”?   This land was the site of a dispute between the Ito clan and the Shimazu clan, both of whom were officials dispatched from the Kamakura shogunate, but it is said that after the Toyotomi administration, the Ito clan took over the land.    The Ito clan is said to have immigrated from Ito City, Shizuoka Prefecture during the Kamakura Shogunate era, and took the surname Ito, so it has a really long history.   That’s why a commemorative tree (Cherry Blossom) was planted in Obi Castle by Mayor Ito.

It was the first in Kyushu to be selected as an Important Preservation District for Traditional Buildings by Agency for Cultural Affairs.   The town layout from the early Edo period remains intact, and it is one of the Little Kyotos throughout the country.   The beauty of the stonework of both Obi Castle and samurai residences is unparalleled in the world.   What’s more, the techniques used are too maniacal, such as stacking them in a large curve or at an angle instead of stacking them straight.   The nearly 500-year history gives the moss on the stone walls a wabi-sabi feel.    I have never seen such beautiful stonework.    Definitely worth seeing.

Also, the Obi cedars, which can often be seen inside Obi Castle, are beautiful as they grow straight through a carpet of moss.    There is a wonderful cedar forest on the hill at the very back of the castle ruins.   Because they contain oil inside and grows quickly, it is also light, so it was valued as a material for ships and construction.

obi (37)
seated archery with cat

There is a seated archery course near the tourist information center that was popular among samurai at the time, so be sure to give it a try.   8 arrows cost 500 yen.    If you underestimate them because they are close, your arrows will have a hard time hitting the target.    If you miss too many arrows, the person in charge will feel sorry for you and add a few more arrows.   By the way, there is a black cat living at this archery range, and he appeared on the NHK program Iwago-san’s “Cat Walks,” and when I was struggling with my bow and arrow, he came and sat behind me quietly.

 

Detour

Miyazaki is the home of sweet potato shochu.    Strangely enough, the alcohol content shipped outside the prefecture is the usual 25%, but the one distributed within the prefecture is as low as 20%.   It is said that the technology for making shochu was brought to Miyazaki from Okinawa, and  people who moved from Okinawa to Miyazaki after the world-war2 created moonshine with a low alcohol content, and it was legalized by setting a low alcohol tax on it.    It is still distributed in Miyazaki Prefecture.   There is a famous sake brewery in Nichinan City, and a dojo where young people can learn brewing techniques has opened.

 

west coast (1)
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How the arcadia was created by the Uesugi family ?

Yonezawa castle1

By the end of the 19th century, British travel explorer Isabella Bird called the Okitama area including Yonezawa basin ‘the Arcadia of Asia’.

The place name of Okitama is not familiar to modern Japanese people, but it is based on the Ainu language.    It is a large granary area surrounded by deep mountains.  Perhaps she was impressed by the green land spreading in front of her after crossing a difficult mountain.    But that’s not all for the arcadia.

Okitama area had been dominated by the Uesugi family in the Edo period.  Everyone knows that a pioneer warlord of Uesugi family, Kenshin Uesugi, had ruled Niigata area, not Okitama area.    In addition, every year during the cherry blossom season, the Kawanakajima battle between Kenshin Uesugi and Shingen Takeda (actually done at Nagano) is reproduced in Yonezawa !

At the end of the Warring States period, Kenshin’s successor ruled Aizu under the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, but after Ieyasu Tokugawa took power, the Uesugi family, his hostile, had been moved to Okitama, which had a low rice production.  The Uesugi family and chief retainer Kanetsugu Noe did not dismiss their subordinates and developed cultivated land.

150 years later, Youzan Uesugi, the new lord appeared to save the financial difficulty by educating people instead of dismissing them and creating new industries that continue to this day.

“People belong to the nation, not the king.”

This is what he advocated and is exactly the idea of ​​modern democracy.  President Kennedy reportedly raised Youzan Uesugi, Yonezawa lord, as a Japanese politician he respected in his inaugural interview.   There are many Japanese who do not know this person, but the following sayings, rather than as a poem written by him, have been heard at least once .

“If you try to do, it can be achieved, if you don’t, it will never be achieved. Achieving nothing is due to one’s own intention to not try.”

What the two reformers had in common was that they value people and thought that people were property.   The arcadia may have been created by people who were carefully protected in this countryside.

By the way,  Kenshin,  a successor Kagekatu and Youzan in Uesugi family were not related by blood but adoption.  It’s cool !

As you walk along the Yonezawa Castle Ruins, the center of Arcadia, imagine the history of hardship.    If the time is right, you can see the Rakuchu Rakugai folding screen (National treasure) donated by Nobunaga Oda to Kenshin Uesugi.    Incidentally, Masamune Date has been moved to the northern part of Miyagi Prefecture from the Okitama area by the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi.  Therefore, at the battle of Sekigahara, Date was attacking Uesugi as an excuse to side with Tokugawa.    Places like each other.

 

Mountain Pass Station0
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