Giant stone lanterns and decaying Edo period townscape

makabe town (9)shiota house

It seems that the city of Sakuragawa, literally translated as cherry blossoms along river, was formed through a merger of towns and villages, and while there are certainly spots comparable to the wild cherry blossoms of Yoshino in Nara, one of merged town of Makabe, which retains the same town layout as it did in the early Edo period like as Tatsuno town, is more famous.    I headed for the old townscape, and was surprised to see huge stone lanterns installed at the entrances of private homes here and there.

They were so huge that you would never see them at an inn or temple or shrine, and it seemed like each home was competing to have their own.    It seems like people in Tokushima Prefecture are showing off their wealth by building magnificent udatsu at the boundary between houses, but with the recent increase in robberies, the giant stone lantern is intended to appeal to robbers, as if it is asking them to break into its premises.    As we drove, we saw stoneworks everywhere, and the rows of stone lanterns waiting to be shipped were a spectacular sight.     As I couldn’t buy a stone lantern as a souvenir, I bought a stone chopstick rest instead.

makabe town (8)tsukamoto tea storehouse
makabe town (8)tsukamoto tea storehouse

As you enter the town of Makabe, you will come across an old townscape that has been designated an Important Building Heritage District.    While some buildings are well preserved, others are in a state of disrepair, and some look as though they will soon collapse if left as they are.    I wonder if it could be used as a way to revitalize the town and somehow improve it.     There are no shops that you can just drop into while walking around town.     I’m sure there are similar places all over the country, but seeing the buildings decaying in the hot sun made me feel more lonely than touristy.

 

Detour for lunch

There is a lovely little cafe, “Cafe125,” between Makabe town and Amabiki Kannon Temple. The whole house is decorated with handmade dolls and dried flowers.

amabiki kannon (22)
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Miyakonojo is completely flat

miyakonojyo

Miyakonojo is located upstream of the Oyodo River, which has its mouth in Miyazaki City, so it should be in a basin, but when you look at the map, it’s too flat to be called a basin.    Since it was cherry blossom season, I went to the observatory of Mochio Shrine to see the row of cherry blossom trees that were selected as one of the top 100 cherry blossom trees.   If I go to a shrine on a hill just to get a view, I will might be punished, so after praying at the shrine, I tried to go to the observation deck and noticed that there was a group of megaliths behind the shrine.    I could feel an inexplicable spirit.    Trembling, I proceed to the observation deck.

From the observation deck, you can get a good view of the completely flat Miyakonojo.    I have never seen such flat land.    There is an explanation that it was a lake in ancient times, and was flattened by pyroclastic flows from the Aira Caldera in Kagoshima next to Miyakonojo.   I had often heard on the news that avian influenza had broken out in Miyakonojo and the chickens at the poultry farm had to be culled, and I thought that the area was so flat that migratory birds would also land there.    I came to see the row of cherry blossom trees from the observation deck, but my attention was drawn to the vast, flat basin.

west coast (1)
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Where there is famous water, there is famous sake

shichiken1

A sake brewery in Daigahara, a post town on the old Koshu Highroad, produced a famous sake called Shichiken.    The brewed water in the backyard that you can drink freely is soft and delicious.    There is also sake that is similar to champagne.   Would you like to eat koji(malt) dishes at the attached restaurant, or have cold soba noodles at the soba restaurant across the street?    In either case, good water is the deciding factor.

Whiskey brewing and tasting

Japanese Sake is not the only type of brewing that uses delicious water.    The Suntory Hakushu factory is located towards Kobuchizawa from the post town.  You can tour here, but the most fun part is the tasting.   Advance reservations are required to tour, but be sure to take advantage of the hourly free shuttle bus from Kobuchizawa Station.    Drivers are only boring.    In case of the Suntory Yamazaki factory in Osaka, it is near the station, so you can easily go for a tasting.   The founders of both Suntory and Nikka Whiskey were closely related.

(reference) Yamazaki Suntory Factory

 

jissoji2
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A lone cherry tree with a strong presence

kanda3 oh-ito cherry blossom

If you follow the JR Chuo Main Line further upstream, you will see a particularly huge cherry tree, the Kanda Oito Cherry Blossom (Edohigan Cherry Blossom), standing like a giant with Yatsugatake in the background.    The tree is currently being treated to restore its vigor.

The cherry blossoms at the place where Dososhin, the road god at the entrance of the village, is located overlooking the Oito cherry blossoms are also spectacular.

Detour (Nagasaka Ushiike Pond)

Nagasaka Town is located across the Kamanashi River, which creates a deep valley.    Just one step away from the main road in the middle of town, cherry blossoms are planted surrounding Nagasaka Ushiike Pond, which was built for irrigation purposes, and the Southern Alps appear to be looming in the background.

Sakura needs no explanation.    I missed the famous cherry blossoms along the JR Chuo Line.    This is a lone cherry tree in Wanizuka, Nirasaki City, just before Hokuto City.    The cherry blossoms reach full bloom earlier than the cherry blossoms in Hokuto City, so pay attention to the timing.

jissoji2
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Cherry blossoms bringing spring to the snow-covered mountains

sanehara8 chatting among locals
sanehara1 cherry blossom trees
sanehara1 cherry blossom trees
sanehara11
sanehara11

Near Jisso-ji Temple, there is a row of Sanehara cherry trees planted by the pioneers of this area.    It is said that when they first settled in this area, they had great difficulty cultivating it due to lack of water.

The rows of cherry blossom trees, which have watched their work over the past year, will be in full bloom again this year with Mt. Kai-komagatake in the Southern Alps in the background and will give them courage.

south alps
south alps
kai komagatake
kai komagatake

jissoji2
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