coast | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

2023-08-172023-08-17

Head to the nearby Uyuni Salt Lake without time and money

Chichibugahama beach became quite famous on Instagram etc. If you want to enjoy Uyuni Salt Lake, which reflects the whole sky like a mirror at your feet, only in pictures, check the time of low tide and sunset before heading there.

chichibugahama beach take4

chichibugahama beach take3

It looks majestic in the photo, but the shooting site is covered in mud, and everyone is looking into the viewfinder from a low posture. Looking at Instagram, I still want to expect to see the magnificent scenery with the naked eye, but….. There are three major disappointments in the world, but don’t let that happen here. By the way, the three biggest disappointments experienced were “the Little Mermaid Statue”, which if you take a picture from the side rather than diagonally above, the factory area will be reflected in the background, “the Lorelei Rock”, which you won’t notice even if you were guided on a sightseeing boat, and “the Manneken Pis”, which is smaller than you thought. But it’s not too bad. It would be scary if Manneken Pis were huge. (A girl’s version of Manneken Pis was built nearby, but I don’t know what’s going on now.)

chichibugahama beach take1

chichibugahama beach take2

Kannonji

If I had a little more time, I would have liked to see the sand art of the Kan-ei Tsuho, a huge coin made in sand from the Edo period, from above. Did you know that it was the title background of the TV historical drama program Zenigata Heiji. However, it was close to sunset time, so I headed to the nearby Kamenoi Hotel in Kannonji. Impressed by elaborate appetizers.

kannonji sunset

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kannonji dinner2

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kannonji dinner5

View of Mt.Kotohira in the morning from the opposite side of Konpira

kannonji morning sanuki Fuji on the left

kannonji morning Mt.Zohtosan(konpirasan)

konpira12 still steps — go back to itinerary

2023-08-142023-08-14

Overlooking the Seto Inland Sea from Mt. Shiude

There is a steep slope leading to the parking lot at the top of the mountain, so you should never walk from the coast. However, just because you have arrived at the summit parking lot, you can’t feel relieved. At the entrance of the slope leading to the observatory in the mountaintop parking lot, there are many canes like Konpira-san, which means that the steep slope continues from here furthermore.

Mt.Shiude left

Mt.Shiude right

When you reach the true summit, the view spreads out 360 degrees, but the sound of the waves does not reach you, it is quiet, and there is no sound, which is a strange feeling. If you look closely, you can see Shikoku Niihama, Okayama Mt.Washuzan, and Seto Ohashi Bridge. The highlight here is that you can see that the Seto Inland Sea is made up of regular repetitions of island-lined Seto and flat seas Nada without islands.

Panorama View (from west, north to east)

Mt.Shiude1 over Shikokucyuou

Mt.Shiude2 over Nihama

Mt.Shiude3 Nada

Mt.Shiude4

Mt.Shiude5

Mt.Shiude6

Mt.Shiude7 Seto

Mt.Shiude8 Awashima island

Mt.Shiude Seto Ohhashi bridge

The Japanese archipelago has a complex topography due to the collision of multiple plates. The Seto Inland Sea area was wrinkled diagonally by being pulled diagonally by the plate, and seawater inflowed here 10,000 years ago, and many islands formed at the tops of the wrinkles.

seto inland sea structure — Simulate by pulling cloth diagonally

Between the islands, the speed of the sea water at high tide and low tide makes it difficult for ships to navigate. This is Seto. Half a century ago, the song “Seto no Hanayome”(Bride from Seto) was popular in Japan, and it may have meant the rough seas of married life in the future . Where there are no wrinkles, the sea is flat and calm. This is Nada. Between Kobe and Osaka, there is a long-established sake-producing area, which is famous as “Nada no Sake”(Sake of Nada). You can see that Seto and Nada are clearly divided into east and west from Mt. Shiude.

hydrangea and islands1

hydrangea and islands2

Mt. Shiude seems to be very crowded during the cherry blossom season to enjoy the cherry blossoms and the beauty of the islands together. Reservations are required for those who drive to the parking lot at the top of the mountain, so be careful during this period. If you are a good walker, how about climbing from the coast in this season?

2023-08-022023-08-02

Still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine

I wrote that Hiroshima is not only about the World Heritage Itsukushima Shrine, but, still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine.

Just the other day, the G7 leaders visited Itsukushima Shrine. A shrine floating on the surface of the sea is beautiful, but a shrine at ebb tide isn’t bad either. Oh, don’t be disappointed if the time doesn’t match, feel like you’ve come to dig clams and touch the red big torii that you usually can’t get close to.

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itsukushima senjokaku2

itsukushima senjokaku1

itsukushima shrine2

itsukushima shrine4

Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara had many wild deer, messengers of the gods, and there are also many wild deer here. However, since they are not treated as messengers of the gods, feeding them is prohibited. Even with the same deer, the difference in treatment is considerable. But there was a person who gave them momiji manju with the shape of maple. Momiji manju is certainly delicious for humans to eat, but I definitely recommend eating the plump conger eel before crossing over to Itsukushima. No high-end restaurant can match the taste.

itsukushima shrine6 deer

itsukushima ferry

itsukushima anago1 special2000yen

itsukushima anago2 without sauce

Morning walk in Hiroshima and …

Western Japan has many feudal lord’s gardens right in town. At that time, feudal lords competed to have a garden with large ponds built. Shukkeien in Hiroshima is one of famous gardens. There are trees that survived the atomic bomb. Okonomiyaki when you are hungry. People in Hiroshima seem to eat okonomiyaki from lunch, but I’m impressed that they can eat it without beer.

hiroshima shukkeien park1 feudal lord’s garden

hiroshima shukkeien park2

hiroshima in the morning

hiroshima atomic bomb dome

hiroshima okonomiyaki1

hiroshima okonomiyaki2

2023-07-282023-08-05

Cruising to Tomonoura, a historic town

There are no unsophisticated people who come to the Seto Inland Sea and travel by land from Onomichi to Tomonoura. On the way of sea, you can see a large suspension bridge, a shipyard, and Kannon who prays for maritime safety. However, please note that this cruise ship makes two round trips a day only on weekends and holidays.

Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura

cruising1

cruising3 shimanami kaido

cruising4 fishing boat

cruising5 shipyard

cruising6 shipyard dock

cruising7 utsumi ohashi

cruising8 abuto kannon

cruising10

cruising11

cruising12 goal

Well, Tomonoura is located right in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea and was a port of waiting for the tide in the age of ships that depended on the wind and currents. The high tide coming from the east and west channels of the Seto Inland Sea collides offshore, and the force is used to enter the port. When leaving the port to advance offshore, it uses the power of the ebb tide that pulls it to the east and west .

The place where the Korean envoys stopped by still remains, and it is also the place where Japan’s first maritime casualty negotiations occurred between steamships on the late Edo period. Here is the site of a true story in which the Kishu Domain (almost Wakayama prefecture), which was under the control of the shogunate, was defeated by the Kaientai led by Ryoma Sakamoto, according to the World Public Law.

It’s fun to take a leisurely stroll through the nostalgic port town. This is the stage of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” produced by Studio Ghibli. Furthermore, ‘Hohmeishu’, sweet sake with Japanese herbs, is famous, but you should also try original sweet sake ‘mirin’ which enhances the flavor of the dish.

tomonoura1 fukuzenn temple

tomonoura2 hohmeishu sake of life

tomonoura3

tomonoura4 allnight lighthouse

tomonoura5 meien temple buddha birthday decoration

tomonoura6

tomonoura7 ankoku temple

2023-07-202023-08-05

That island occupied by rabbits

After landing that island you are immediately surrounded by huge number of rabbits. There are lots of stories as to why rabbits were brought in Ohkuno island and bred. Looking at the rabbits lying on their bellies and too relaxing even when people approach, it seems like a peaceful island. However, ruins where the former army conducted poison gas experiments remain everywhere. My delusion (story) is that after World War II, the GHQ (occupying American army) released the rabbits to confirm the safety of the poison gas removal process.

chukai port1

chukai port2

rabbit island3

rabbit island7 ruin of poison experiment

Don’t forget to procure rabbit food before crossing the island. Rabbits don’t care about people who don’t have food.

rabbit island10

chukai port3 this store sells rabbit food

rabbit island1 ferry

Rent a bicycle when you get to the island. You can go around in about 30 minutes. However, if you want to see the beauty of the many islands, you need to leave your bicycle and climb a little.

rabbit island4 top

rabbit island5 top

Detour

Did you know that Chukai, Takehara City has a headquarters and a factory that holds more than 50% of Japan’s jam market share? It is Aohata, which is the first company in the world to canned mandarin oranges grown in the Seto Inland Sea. It is said that the president of Aohata, who watched a regatta race between the UK’s most famous universities, was impressed by the cheering of the blue flag. English replacement of Aohata is a blue flag. Visitable factories and photogenic shops are near Chukai JR station.

2020-07-272025-03-16

Ohtakamori viewpoint of Matsushima at sunset

You can’t see the beauty of Matsushima sufficiently unless you look at it from a high place.
Near the Oku-Matsushima(Sagakei) sightseeing boarding place there was a signpost which indicated a 15-minute walk to the Ohtakamori observatory (106 m above sea level). This was ridiculous mountain climbing and hell especially in the summer season. When I got to the observatory, I was out of breath and sweaty. Matsushima Bay can be seen to the west from Otakamori, but unfortunately it was too early in the sunset. Nobi district on the right hand view remains reddish wasteland due to the tsunami.

Ohtakamori Panoramic View

ohtakamori1 left

ohtakamori2 middle-left

ohtakamori3 middle

ohtakamori4 middle-right

ohtakamori5 right

Saigyo Modoshino Matsu View

This observatory (122m above sea level) is a 20-minute walk from JR Matsushima Kaigan Station. However, mainly coming to the famous tourist spots from that station, few people walk up to this point. If you come, in the cherry blossom season, take a picture of small islands in Matsushima Bay that shines east and the cherry blossoms in the foreground in the afternoon.
After being sweaty due to climbing, how about taking a public bath at the hot spring below viewpoint!

saigyo modoshino matsu after cherry blossoms season

saigyo modoshino matsu

ohtakamori from saigyo modoshino matsu

2020-07-262025-03-16

Deep Matsushima Sea Canyon, Sagakei, a little different from typical Matsushima

Matsushima, ah! / Ah ah! Matsushima, ah! / Matsushima, ah!

The haiku poet Basho wrote the above in Matsushima and I was taught so in childhood, but it seems different. I certainly thought that anyone could write this, but Basho himself said that he could not write words in the superb view of Matsushima and did not write haiku.

A typical Matsushima sightseeing starts from JR Matsushima Kaigan Station, and Fuku-ura island to pray for getting partner (famous for the combined hike of male and female students; it’s an old story), Godaido temple, a sightseeing boat in the bay inside, and Zuiganji Temple, national treasure, are the golden routes, but those who love the countryside avoid famous tourist spots and crowd.

It is said that the magnificent view of Matsushima Bay was created by rising water levels in the eroded mountains, but erosion due to waves is still progressing outside Matsushima Bay. “Matsushima” is the pine tree on the island when the characters are translated into English. The green of the pine against the yellow of the eroded rock surface could make us feel the bonsai flavor. Anyway, we enjoyed the beauty of nature in the sea canyon “Sagakei” and there were many rocks that remind us of various creatures. The boat is small and very homey, and if there are no waves, you can see the blue cave.

Gallery (click photos)

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sagakei1 net crane

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sagakei3

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sagakei5 frog rock

sagakei6 muroto port and boys

sagakei7 floding rock

sagakei8 man and woman rocks

sagakei9 sea cat

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sagakei11 sea cat

sagakei13 elephant nose

sagakei12

sagakei14 sea lion like oboshi rock

sagakei15 ｂridge collapse

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sagakei17

sagakei18

sagakei19 long root of pine

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sagakei21 blue cave

sagakei22 kanozaki

sagakei23 frog rock

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sagakei25 camel

sagakei26

2020-07-232025-03-16

“The early bird gets the worm” at morning market of Yuriage

Film director Makoto Shinkai said he got the idea for the movie “Your name”(subtitle: I’m always searching for something, for someone.) from the disaster-affected Yuriage. The coastal area of Yuriage and the port town were all swallowed by the tsunami caused by the Great East Japan Earthquake, and the situation was seen by all the people in the live broadcast via helicopter from the sky without doing anything. According to the story of the movie, two people, who transcend time and space, cooperate with each other on how to call residents to evacuate, although the types of disasters are different.

yuriage seawall1

yuriage momument

In the old days, a row of beautiful cool pine trees that continue along the coastline collapsed due to the tsunami, and now triple tide walls continue to the dry ground. In addition, the residents are returning by raising the height of the land. Morning markets are held on Sundays and public holidays from 6:00 to regain the old bustle, and the general public can participate in the auction no charge and get cheap and fresh products(see cover photo).

breakfast1 at yuriage

breakfast2 at yuriage

yuriage morning market

yuriage port

Michinoku Coastal Trail and Natori Information Center

This trail connects the Pacific coast from Hachinohe in Aomori prefecture to Soma in Fukushima prefecture. Walking distance is 1000km ! Natori Information center is located at Yuriage and not only for breaks, you can use showers and laundry there.
>read more about Michinoku Coastal Trail in Hachinohe

2020-07-222025-03-16

Shiogama Shrine protecting the demon gate

Generally speaking of cows in a shrine is associated with Tenmangu, which enshrines Michizane Sugawara, senior official in Heian period, as the god of learning. So, It is a major source of income for the shrine during the examination season. However, at Shiogama Shrine, cows are worshiped in the hope that the business will continue for a long time like cow drool. The drool is not smart, but it is strongly associated with the development of Shiogama as a port town.

Shiogama Shrine is the No. 1 shrine in Tohoku, and sits in a position to protect the demon gate of Tagajo, which is the agency of the Yamato Imperial Court. It is located on a ridiculous hill in expectation of a tsunami caused by an earthquake. If you climb from the main approach, you will find 202 stone steps. At the time of the festival, 16 people carry one ton of mikoshi on the stone steps, so each person carries the same weight as their own weight.

I could see many small islands floating in Matsushima Bay from the precincts, and I felt that the hard work of climbing was rewarded.

There is Shiogama Sakura, a large-flowered double-flowered cherry tree designated as a natural monument in the precincts, but when it was about to disappear due to aging, it revived thanks to Kyoto gardener Sano Toemon. If you have the opportunity, definitely enjoy the wonderful Shiogama Sakura.

shiogama shrine cherry — shiogama shirine cherry

Haiku Basho wrote about this lantern in his travel journal.

Detour

The Tagajo, which was the agency for the Yamato Imperial Court and guarded by shrine, is explained at the Tohoku History Museum near Kokufu-Tagajo station. Excavations are still ongoing at Tagajo and there is a good walking course.

2020-07-112025-03-16

For those who go further south along Sanriku railway, I want you to experience the earthquake disaster remains and reconstruction.

Sanriku suffered Tsunami disasters many times. Each time, a stone monument was set up at the highest point where the tsunami reached, and lessons remained for individuals to run away in isolation, regardless of their families, it is said ‘Tendenko’. In the Great East Japan Earthquake, this lesson was put to good use, and about 600 students of elementary school and junior high school took the lead in evacuating to the hills at Unosumai region in Kamaishi City, saving many lives including residents. It is said to be a miracle of Kamaishi. The Unosumai Stadium, the venue for the Rugby World Cup 2019, was built on the site of the schools swallowed by the Tsunami. Test match Japan vs Fiji and World Cup match Fiji vs Uruguay were held with full audience.

Sanriku is still on the way of recovery from the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011. Also, the speed of recovery varies from region to region. It is also influenced by topographical factors. As I mentioned the post of ‘Kita-Yamazaki cliff’ (>read more), the northern half of Sanriku is a raised coast and the other is a sinking coast, that is the real ‘rias’ coast with deep natural coves and natural good ports. The tsunami becomes huge toward the cove and the damage is great.
After the Great East Japan Earthquake, the houses in small fishing ports were moved to higher ground and the lands of towns in the cove were raised, but if the scale was large, the construction took time, and the evacuated residents could not return anymore when the land was cleared. I feel sad when I see vacant land here and there…..

vacant land in otsuchi town — vacant space in Otsuchi town on the raised land

If you finally went to Kesennuma at the southern end of Southern Sanriku, please drop by at the Kesennuma Memorial. The school building of Kesennuma Koyo High School, which was affected by the earthquake and tsunami, remains as it is. The tsunami that rushed up to the 4th floor, the car that had flown into the classroom and turned over, textbooks and upper shoes scattered on the floor are left as they are. I feel a strong will not to weather and forget the memory of the disaster. Come once.

car crushed by tsunami on the 3rd floor at Kesennuma Memorial

For those who directly return to Morioka from Miyako

In Morioka, try jaja-men(noodles) and after that not forget to order chi-tan-tan(egg soup) using the leftovers of the jaja-men. Morioka feels continental culture in food and festival costumes.

ja ja men

chi tan tan after ja ja men

Kannonji

View of Mt.Kotohira in the morning from the opposite side of Konpira

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Panorama View (from west, north to east)

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Morning walk in Hiroshima and …

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Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura

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Detour

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Ohtakamori Panoramic View

Saigyo Modoshino Matsu View

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Gallery (click photos)

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Michinoku Coastal Trail and Natori Information Center

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Detour

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For those who directly return to Morioka from Miyako

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