Japanese countryside | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

2023-10-252023-10-29

Moss Forest, a gathering place for people who love the world of Ghibli

As soon as you step inside, you will be greeted by a ”moss forest” that covers everything from the ground to the roots of the primeval forest. This scenery has been used in various TV commercials, so you may have seen it somewhere at least once. It is said that 485 types of moss live there, so I went in with a magnifying glass, but I couldn’t really observe each one individually.

Anyway, as I climbed up to the Takami-ishi Hut enjoying the scenery I had never seen before, I suddenly saw a mountain piled up with large rocks that looked like they had been piled up by giants. If you drop something into a crevice between rocks, you will never be able to get it out, so be careful when climbing. When you reach the top of the rocky mountain, you can see the round Shirakoma Pond floating just below, and beyond that you can see a vast panoramic view of the Saku and Karuizawa basins, and even Mt. Asama with its volcanic smoke behind them.

shirakoma forest10 top left mt.asamayama

shirakoma forest11 top center saku karuizawa

shirakoma forest12 top right

We crawled down the rocky mountain, passed the mirror-like shores of Shirakoma Pond, and returned to the parking lot through ”Mononoke Forest”, which is also reminiscent of the world of Ghibli. It’s a different world for three hours above the clouds, but it’s a beauty that no amount of words can express.

shirakoma forest1 entrance

shirakoma forest2

shirakoma forest4 baby mushroom

shirakoma forest5 takamiishi hut

shirakoma forest7

shirakoma forest8

shirakoma forest9 shirakoma pond

shirakoma forest14 moss

shirakoma forest13

shirakoma forest15 butterfly

shirakoma forest16 shirakoma pond

shirakoma forest16 walking pass

shirakoma forest18

shirakoma forest17

shirakoma forest19

shirakoma forest20 mononoke forest

shirakoma forest22

shirakoma forest23

shirakoma forest24

shirakoma forest26

The largest lake above the clouds, “Shirakoma Pond”

shirakoma pond1 left

shirakoma pond2 center left

shirakoma pond3 center

shirakoma pond4 center right

Detour (View Point)

Midway through the winding descent on the way back, at a point where my fellow passengers were beginning to feel uncomfortable, we came to the Hinata-Koba Observation Deck. A resting place, not a detour. You can see the Yatsugatake Mountains to the east, the Southern Alps and Kiso Mountains to the south, the Northern Alps to the west, and Mt. Tateshina at the northern tip of Yatsugatake. I have never seen so many mountains in Japan in one direction. The weather was so nice that day that I could see the summit of Mt. Yarigatake and was very impressed.

hinatakoba viewpoint1 left yatsugatake

hinatakoba viewpoint2 south alps

hinatakoba viewpoint3 kiso mountains

hinatakoba viewpoint4

hinatakoba viewpoint6 right mt.tateshina

hinatakoba viewpoint7 front left kirigamine center back mt.yarigatake

shirakoma pond0 cover photo — go back to itinerary

2023-08-232023-08-23

Blue comes from indigo and is bluer than indigo

It is said that when a British chemist came to Japan in the early Meiji period, he described the whole town painted in indigo blue as Japan Blue. Indigo dyeing was used not only for clothing but also for all everyday items, and it was so widespread throughout Japan. Ancient Japaneses must have experienced its insect repellent, deodorant, and antibacterial effects in a humid climate. And many disciples have improved their technical skills beyond their masters.

“Blue comes from indigo and is bluer than indigo.”

With the indigo dyeing technique spread across the country and cotton cultivation in the Seto Inland Sea, which takes advantage of the low rainfall, it was a natural progression that Japan’s jeans production bases were established in Okayama and Hiroshima prefectures near Tokushima prefecture.

indigo dyeing workshop1

indigo dyeing workshop3 preparation

indigo dyeing workshop2 pot of dye

indigo dyeing workshop4 expose to air

indigo dyeing workshop5 finish

For amateurs, it is refreshing to experience indigo dyeing in an unexpected way that the result is not what you expected at all. The dyed material is dipped in the dye many times to make the dye darker, but in accordance with this, the gradation is created by gradually loosening the parts that have been squeezed so as not to be dyed. However, it is difficult to adjust. The amount of time the dyed material is exposed to air and oxidized once out of the dye also greatly affects the results. However, people who experience it once want to do it again and again. In Tokushima Prefecture, there are hands-on workshops everywhere. The workshop where I experienced is in a merchant’s house that amassed wealth from trading indigo-dyed products.

indigo dyeing house1

indigo dyeing house3 inside

indigo dyeing house2

indigo dyeing workshop6 indigo for material

The team color of the Japanese national soccer team is based on Japan Blue, so I hope that the result of the match will overturn the expectations as indigo dyeing !

konpira12 still steps — Go back to itinerary

2023-08-19

Udatsu, a former vanity that is now a major tourist attraction

Is the meaning of “the guy who can’t go up the Udatsu” closer to “the guy who can’t even build a pool in the garden”?

waki town 8

waki town11 the thickest udatsu for only vanity

Udatsu began as a fire wall plastered on the boundary between the second floors of merchant houses on the street to prevent fire from catching fire from neighboring houses. Later, its thickness became a symbol of wealth. Nowadays, it is used in the opposite way, such as “some people can’t go up the Udatsu,” and it has become a proverb to ridicule a husband who is unattractive and inferior to other people.

waki town1 old wharf

waki town2

waki town5 udatsu

waki town4 udatsu for fire protection or vanity

waki town7

waki town14

waki town15

waki town16

waki town24

waki town25

waki towm12 theater

waki town17 old indigo dealer

waki town19 indigo material

The merchant houses on the street remain intact in the townscape, as if you had slipped back in time to the Edo period. In this town, the Udatsu has risen in the trade of indigo products. It is similar to Yamagata’s safflower trade. When you are enjoying the good atmosphere, you will suddenly be occupied by a large number of chattering ladies who got off the large sightseeing bus, so be careful. It is the mother who rules the world, and the husband always doesn’t go up the Udatsu.

waki town3 toribusuma for bird resting place

waki town10 mushiko window like insect cage

In addition to the Udatsu, a perch-like place is attached to the ridge-end tile (Onigawara) on the roof for birds to rest their wings and not poop on the ridge-end tile. It is called “Toribusuma”. Also, Also, on the second floor of the merchant’s house, there is a lattice window that allows the outside to be seen only from inside room, and the exterior is designed like an insect cage. It is called “Mushiko window”. On the first floor, there is a thin lattice that hides the private part, and a lattice with a large gap that allows the store to be seen from the outside. You can see many historical buildings with many interesting details.

waki taomn9 thin grids for private and thick grids for shop

waki town13

waki town6

waki town22 udatsu

waki town20 swallow

2023-08-172023-08-17

Head to the nearby Uyuni Salt Lake without time and money

Chichibugahama beach became quite famous on Instagram etc. If you want to enjoy Uyuni Salt Lake, which reflects the whole sky like a mirror at your feet, only in pictures, check the time of low tide and sunset before heading there.

chichibugahama beach take4

chichibugahama beach take3

It looks majestic in the photo, but the shooting site is covered in mud, and everyone is looking into the viewfinder from a low posture. Looking at Instagram, I still want to expect to see the magnificent scenery with the naked eye, but….. There are three major disappointments in the world, but don’t let that happen here. By the way, the three biggest disappointments experienced were “the Little Mermaid Statue”, which if you take a picture from the side rather than diagonally above, the factory area will be reflected in the background, “the Lorelei Rock”, which you won’t notice even if you were guided on a sightseeing boat, and “the Manneken Pis”, which is smaller than you thought. But it’s not too bad. It would be scary if Manneken Pis were huge. (A girl’s version of Manneken Pis was built nearby, but I don’t know what’s going on now.)

chichibugahama beach take1

chichibugahama beach take2

Kannonji

If I had a little more time, I would have liked to see the sand art of the Kan-ei Tsuho, a huge coin made in sand from the Edo period, from above. Did you know that it was the title background of the TV historical drama program Zenigata Heiji. However, it was close to sunset time, so I headed to the nearby Kamenoi Hotel in Kannonji. Impressed by elaborate appetizers.

kannonji sunset

kannonji dinner1

kannonji dinner2

kannonji dinner3

kannonji dinner4

kannonji dinner5

View of Mt.Kotohira in the morning from the opposite side of Konpira

kannonji morning sanuki Fuji on the left

kannonji morning Mt.Zohtosan(konpirasan)

2023-08-142023-08-14

Overlooking the Seto Inland Sea from Mt. Shiude

There is a steep slope leading to the parking lot at the top of the mountain, so you should never walk from the coast. However, just because you have arrived at the summit parking lot, you can’t feel relieved. At the entrance of the slope leading to the observatory in the mountaintop parking lot, there are many canes like Konpira-san, which means that the steep slope continues from here furthermore.

Mt.Shiude left

Mt.Shiude right

When you reach the true summit, the view spreads out 360 degrees, but the sound of the waves does not reach you, it is quiet, and there is no sound, which is a strange feeling. If you look closely, you can see Shikoku Niihama, Okayama Mt.Washuzan, and Seto Ohashi Bridge. The highlight here is that you can see that the Seto Inland Sea is made up of regular repetitions of island-lined Seto and flat seas Nada without islands.

Panorama View (from west, north to east)

Mt.Shiude1 over Shikokucyuou

Mt.Shiude2 over Nihama

Mt.Shiude3 Nada

Mt.Shiude4

Mt.Shiude5

Mt.Shiude6

Mt.Shiude7 Seto

Mt.Shiude8 Awashima island

Mt.Shiude Seto Ohhashi bridge

The Japanese archipelago has a complex topography due to the collision of multiple plates. The Seto Inland Sea area was wrinkled diagonally by being pulled diagonally by the plate, and seawater inflowed here 10,000 years ago, and many islands formed at the tops of the wrinkles.

seto inland sea structure — Simulate by pulling cloth diagonally

Between the islands, the speed of the sea water at high tide and low tide makes it difficult for ships to navigate. This is Seto. Half a century ago, the song “Seto no Hanayome”(Bride from Seto) was popular in Japan, and it may have meant the rough seas of married life in the future . Where there are no wrinkles, the sea is flat and calm. This is Nada. Between Kobe and Osaka, there is a long-established sake-producing area, which is famous as “Nada no Sake”(Sake of Nada). You can see that Seto and Nada are clearly divided into east and west from Mt. Shiude.

hydrangea and islands1

hydrangea and islands2

Mt. Shiude seems to be very crowded during the cherry blossom season to enjoy the cherry blossoms and the beauty of the islands together. Reservations are required for those who drive to the parking lot at the top of the mountain, so be careful during this period. If you are a good walker, how about climbing from the coast in this season?

2023-08-112023-08-10

Climb the 785 stone steps and see Mt. Fuji from Konpira

Konpira-san has a strong character of the god of sea routes, but in the feudal era when people were prohibited from moving from distant regions, they were allowed to visit Konpira. It is said that Konpira pilgrimage became very popular in the Edo period because no one could reach the main shrine unless they climbed 785 steps on their own, and because rumors were exaggerated after the people who visited the shrine returned home.

konpira10 a dog worships on behalf of its master

It is said that those who could not go by themselves wrapped money, goods, and addresses around their dogs, and entrusted those who went to the shrine to visit with their dogs. If the entrusted person gave up on the way, it is said that he entrusted the dog to another person who was visiting. This is a surprising system because it is close to the idea of modern Internet protocols.

Before starting the climb, first fill yourself up with “Sanuki Udon”. Shrines are often decorated with wooden sacred horses, but here there are two real horses that are not ornaments. In addition, perhaps to pray for safe navigation, even a large screw is decorated.

sanuki udon dinning

sanuki udon cool

sanuki udon side menu chicken

konpira11 real divine horse 72 years old in human terms

konpira11 real horse exercise

konpira11 screw

If you count the stone steps up to the main shrine, there are 786 steps. However, when the number is read in Japanese, it becomes “worry”(Na-Ya-Mu in Japanese), and it is bad luck even though you came to the shrine. Therefore, inserting a stone stair that goes down one step to make a total of 785 steps is a very Japanese solution. It’s a people who likes puns. I don’t know where to go down one step when I’m dazed, but if I know in advance that I’m going to go down one step somewhere on the long stone steps, I feel nervous and have a little fun.

stone step upto tea house — Click above to refer to stone steps to Mt.Haguro Shrine

A similar story can be found at the 2446 stone steps on Mt. Haguro Shrine in Yamagata Prefecture. Here, masons engraved something on the stone steps and mixed and matched stylishly designed stones to make you look forward to discovering them. It makes me happy that Japanese people have had that kind of sense for a long time.

konpira1 first step

konpira2 steps

konpira3 steps

konpira4 step slope

konpira5 looking back

konpira6 daimon gate

konpira7 sculpture on gate

konpira8 over gate

konpira9 horse road with cherry blossom

konpira12 still steps

konpira14 asahisha

konpira15 sculpture of wind cloud under the roof

konpira17 last steps

konpira18 donors

When you climb up to the main shrine, you will be so impressed by the view of the Sanuki Plain from there that you won’t even care about visiting the shrine (it’s a lie). Beautiful cone-shaped small mountains are scattered in the flat plain, and this looks like small Mt.Fuji. I believe that people who visited the shrine in the Edo period must have spread playful rumors that they could have seen “real” Mt.Fuji from Konpira.

konpira21

konpira20

konpira13 special presentation to the public of Jakuchu

The Shoin in the middle of the stone steps was the residence of Shinto priests. This was where the high-ranking people visited, and in the room for visitors, you can always see the fusuma paintings of Maruyama Ohkyo and others. The purpose of this travel is Jakuchu’s fusuma painting, which is extravagant because it is in the private room of the priest. It is said that Jakuchu sent this to celebrate his inauguration as a Shinto priest, partly because the Shinto priest at the time had learned painting from Jakuchu. How cool is that? In addition to Jakuchu, there are wall paintings of countless butterflies by Gantai, and their detailed expressions make me stare at them. I hope it will be published again someday.

https://www.nhk.or.jp/takamatsu/jakuchu/index.html

NHK Kagawa is filming the video, so you may be able to watch it on NHK’s favorite rebroadcast (archive). There are many rebroadcast programs in recent years. Even though I pay the same amount of NHK subscription fees, the number of broadcasting channels seems to be decreasing.

2023-08-022023-08-02

Still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine

I wrote that Hiroshima is not only about the World Heritage Itsukushima Shrine, but, still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine.

Just the other day, the G7 leaders visited Itsukushima Shrine. A shrine floating on the surface of the sea is beautiful, but a shrine at ebb tide isn’t bad either. Oh, don’t be disappointed if the time doesn’t match, feel like you’ve come to dig clams and touch the red big torii that you usually can’t get close to.

itsukushima shrine3

itsukushima senjokaku2

itsukushima senjokaku1

itsukushima shrine2

itsukushima shrine4

Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara had many wild deer, messengers of the gods, and there are also many wild deer here. However, since they are not treated as messengers of the gods, feeding them is prohibited. Even with the same deer, the difference in treatment is considerable. But there was a person who gave them momiji manju with the shape of maple. Momiji manju is certainly delicious for humans to eat, but I definitely recommend eating the plump conger eel before crossing over to Itsukushima. No high-end restaurant can match the taste.

itsukushima shrine6 deer

itsukushima ferry

itsukushima anago1 special2000yen

itsukushima anago2 without sauce

Morning walk in Hiroshima and …

Western Japan has many feudal lord’s gardens right in town. At that time, feudal lords competed to have a garden with large ponds built. Shukkeien in Hiroshima is one of famous gardens. There are trees that survived the atomic bomb. Okonomiyaki when you are hungry. People in Hiroshima seem to eat okonomiyaki from lunch, but I’m impressed that they can eat it without beer.

hiroshima shukkeien park1 feudal lord’s garden

hiroshima shukkeien park2

hiroshima in the morning

hiroshima atomic bomb dome

hiroshima okonomiyaki1

hiroshima okonomiyaki2

2023-07-282023-08-05

Cruising to Tomonoura, a historic town

There are no unsophisticated people who come to the Seto Inland Sea and travel by land from Onomichi to Tomonoura. On the way of sea, you can see a large suspension bridge, a shipyard, and Kannon who prays for maritime safety. However, please note that this cruise ship makes two round trips a day only on weekends and holidays.

Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura

cruising1

cruising3 shimanami kaido

cruising4 fishing boat

cruising5 shipyard

cruising6 shipyard dock

cruising7 utsumi ohashi

cruising8 abuto kannon

cruising10

cruising11

cruising12 goal

Well, Tomonoura is located right in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea and was a port of waiting for the tide in the age of ships that depended on the wind and currents. The high tide coming from the east and west channels of the Seto Inland Sea collides offshore, and the force is used to enter the port. When leaving the port to advance offshore, it uses the power of the ebb tide that pulls it to the east and west .

The place where the Korean envoys stopped by still remains, and it is also the place where Japan’s first maritime casualty negotiations occurred between steamships on the late Edo period. Here is the site of a true story in which the Kishu Domain (almost Wakayama prefecture), which was under the control of the shogunate, was defeated by the Kaientai led by Ryoma Sakamoto, according to the World Public Law.

It’s fun to take a leisurely stroll through the nostalgic port town. This is the stage of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” produced by Studio Ghibli. Furthermore, ‘Hohmeishu’, sweet sake with Japanese herbs, is famous, but you should also try original sweet sake ‘mirin’ which enhances the flavor of the dish.

tomonoura1 fukuzenn temple

tomonoura2 hohmeishu sake of life

tomonoura3

tomonoura4 allnight lighthouse

tomonoura5 meien temple buddha birthday decoration

tomonoura6

tomonoura7 ankoku temple

2023-07-202023-08-05

That island occupied by rabbits

After landing that island you are immediately surrounded by huge number of rabbits. There are lots of stories as to why rabbits were brought in Ohkuno island and bred. Looking at the rabbits lying on their bellies and too relaxing even when people approach, it seems like a peaceful island. However, ruins where the former army conducted poison gas experiments remain everywhere. My delusion (story) is that after World War II, the GHQ (occupying American army) released the rabbits to confirm the safety of the poison gas removal process.

chukai port1

chukai port2

rabbit island3

rabbit island7 ruin of poison experiment

Don’t forget to procure rabbit food before crossing the island. Rabbits don’t care about people who don’t have food.

rabbit island10

chukai port3 this store sells rabbit food

rabbit island1 ferry

Rent a bicycle when you get to the island. You can go around in about 30 minutes. However, if you want to see the beauty of the many islands, you need to leave your bicycle and climb a little.

rabbit island4 top

rabbit island5 top

Detour

Did you know that Chukai, Takehara City has a headquarters and a factory that holds more than 50% of Japan’s jam market share? It is Aohata, which is the first company in the world to canned mandarin oranges grown in the Seto Inland Sea. It is said that the president of Aohata, who watched a regatta race between the UK’s most famous universities, was impressed by the cheering of the blue flag. English replacement of Aohata is a blue flag. Visitable factories and photogenic shops are near Chukai JR station.

2023-07-192023-07-17

Takehara was once connected to Kyoto

It is said that Takehara began when Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto developed the land based on the law of the Nara period that allowed the land that was cultivated by oneself to be owned by oneself. This law was the beginning of the manor system, and wealth was concentrated in those who had the financial power to cultivate the land by themselves, and it triggered the collapse of the world centered on the emperor.

takehara1

takehara9

takehara8

takehara2 chosei temple

takehara12 golden tree

takehara11

takehara16

Anyway, Takehara has a connection with Kyoto and still retains a townscape called Little Kyoto. Incidentally, the Kamo River, which has the same name as Kyoto, runs through the center of the city.　Also, like Kyoto, sake brewing is thriving, and one of its descendants founded Nikka Whiskey in Japan.

takehara4 takezuru sake brewery

takehara5 frontier of japanese whisky

takehara6 massann and lita

A feature that is completely different from Kyoto is salt making in salt fields. At that time, 80% of the salt produced in Japan was produced in Hiroshima Prefecture.

takehara18 remnants of salt fields

takehara19 morikawa house based on salt business

takehara20 morikawa house

takehara21 morikawa house garden

takehara17 beckoning cat

takehara23 station and kure line

The largest lake above the clouds, “Shirakoma Pond”

Detour (View Point)

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Kannonji

View of Mt.Kotohira in the morning from the opposite side of Konpira

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Panorama View (from west, north to east)

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Morning walk in Hiroshima and …

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Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura

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Detour

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