Why Nagoya Castle, even though it’s in Kyushu? Hideyoshi’s base for dispatching troops to Korea

Nanatsu-gama (2)

The fact that more than 130 Sengoku Daimyo(Regional rulers during the Sengoku period), who had previously fought bloody battles, were able to gather together to make up one team was possible only because of the command of Hideyoshi, who had unified the country.    Moreover, Nagoya Castle, which was the same size as Osaka Castle, was completed in just a few months, and this walled city, which housed 200,000 troops dispatched to Korea and 100,000 people stationed there, only lasted seven years, falling into ruins with Hideyoshi’s death.    There is an anecdote that Hideyoshi was pleased because the name Nagoya, where the castle was located, is pronounced the same as Nagoya, Hideyoshi’s hometown, but it seems that Nagoya in Kyushu was a more famous place name at that time.

Nagoya castle (4)
Nagoya castle (4)

After it was abandoned, the castle walls were reused as raw materials for Karatsu Castle and other buildings, and no longer retain their original form.      However, there was an example of Hara Castle, which remained intact during the Shimabara Rebellion, becoming a base for an armed uprising by oppressed Christians, and it seems that the castle was actively demolished out of fear that a similar incident might occur.     This is why there are few clear traces, and it is understandable that only some stone walls and earthworks remain.    Furthermore, it is unusual for feudal lords to have their castles concentrated in such a densely packed area, especially on hilly terrain.

The dispatch of troops to Korea is seen as Hideyoshi’s ambition to invade the Ming Dynasty, but in any case, this battle caused a division among the Toyotomi clan’s vassals after Hideyoshi’s death between those who dispatched troops to Korea and those who remained behind to take charge of the supply routes, and Ieyasu‘s cunning took advantage of this, leading to the downfall of the Toyotomi clan.    On the other hand, Korea’s land was devastated, and the Ming Dynasty lost its national power and was destroyed by the Qing Dynasty, a foreign ethnic group from the north.     No one involved gained anything.     It is clear that Korea and the Ming Dynasty were the ones who suffered the most.

pottery village Imari (10)
pottery village Imari (10)

However, it wasn’t all bad.     The soldiers who went to war had a hard time, but the feudal lords stayed behind and indulged in the tea ceremony, which helped spread Momoyama culture throughout the country.     Potters brought from Korea laid the foundations for pottery in this area.    The museum, located in a corner of the castle, is free to visit and is packed with historical documents.     It even features a reproduction of the gold tea room where Hideyoshi held his tea ceremony.    The construction of the tea room alone cost 30 million yen, and 16,000 sheets of gold leaf weighing 500 grams were used, with two layers of gold leaf.     The shoji screens are made of red silk and feature a watermark of the paulownia crest.      Apparently, a tea ceremony is held in this tea room once a year, and even the participation fee of 10,000 yen may be worth it.     However, it is unlikely that you will be able to fully experience the feeling of wabi-sabi.

Detour

Nanatsugama(Seven pots) is a place where the columnar joints have been eroded by the waves of the Genkai Sea, creating seven hollowed-out caves.

Apparently, the deepest cave is 100m, and when the sea is calm, you can go all the way to the back by sightseeing boat.    The sea was raging on the day we went, and it was terrifying.     I can imagine that it must have been extremely difficult to row out to Korea from here during the Korean War.

 

karatsu kunchi fes (12)
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A detour in the middle of autumn: Marshal Togo in Koma Valley

togo park3 togo marshal

When you get off at Agano Station, you will see the station plaza, which is not very popular for sightseeing.    Following a group of energetic elderly people who have finished their warm-up exercise in front of the station, we follow the group up and down the narrow cliff-top path and mountain path along the railroad tracks until we arrive at the entrance to Togo Park.

togo park2
togo park2

Chichibu Mitake Shrine and Togo Park coexist there.    A little further up, you will see a blanket of bright autumn leaves surrounding the bronze statue of Marshal Togo.    From there, the autumn leaves continue all the way to the mountain.

togo park1
togo park1

 

 

 

 

Along the way, the actual deck of the battleship Mikasa, which was the flagship during the Russo-Japanese War, is on display, with many holes punched by cannonballs.    This is also the shrine that deified Mr. Togo Heihachiro, who defeated the Russian fleet.

At the top of the stone steps, you will reach the main hall of the shrine, but it can be flinching to climb up such a steep slope.    You can enjoy the autumn leaves without even climbing.    I have never seen a mountain so bright red during the autumn leaves.

By the way, there are many names of places near the mountains of Saitama Prefecture that are reminiscent of Korea.    It is said to have originated during the Nara period in Japan, when people who fled from Goguryeo, which had been destroyed by the Tang Dynasty, were given a place to settle from the goverment.    This kind of history is not learned in Japanese history.    There has been a lot of exchange with the mainland since ancient times.

(*)There is a road that goes into the mountain along the railway from the Agano mining site.  Believe in yourself and move on.

Goal to Chichibu (detail of Soba restaurant “Nagomi”)

The only way to get to Nagomi is to walk 20 minutes along a mountain path from Bushu Hino Station on the Chichibu Railway.    However, it is a soba restaurant that is worth the walk.    The restaurant serves only 50 meals a day, and for the first meal, the owner gets to sample the finished product.   On the way, I don’t think I’m the only one who gets surprised when someone calls out to me, “It’s dangerous,” when I cross an unmanned railroad crossing.    Who is that voice?

 

seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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