The Kunisaki Peninsula is a training ground with a series of strangely shaped rocks

nakayamasenkyo yaba viewpoint1 left
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo20
nakayamasenkyo20

Although the elevation is only 300 metres, the tension of climbing up rocky terrain at such an incredible height is perhaps due to its steepness and the excellent views.    Nakayama Senkyo is a place that tests your courage, with a series of chain sections, narrow stone bridges(Mumyo bridge) where stones support each other to cross valleys, and knife-edge saddles(Uma-no-se; horse back), and is not the kind of place you would casually go trekking.

The Ministry of the Environment calls it the Kunisaki Peninsula “Minemichi (Mountain road)” Long Trail and recommends it, but it is truly a training ground.     I don’t recommend it on windy days.  (On the other hand, the ”Michinoku” Coastal Trail, which was restored after the Great East Japan Earthquake, is recommended even on windy days.)    However, once you reach the top, you can see the strangely shaped rocks and peaks, and beyond that the Seto Inland Sea.     Jizo statues are watching over you from every angle.

Once you go ahead beyond the top, you’ll struggle to find the way down.    There’s a hidden path to the rear left at a sharp angle, so if you miss it and go ahead, you’ll find yourself suddenly faced with a sheer cliff, losing track of your position and panicking.    I almost panicked too, but I calmed down and walked back to the path, where I found the entrance to the descent, but it was a long downhill climb from here to the bottom.

The circuit course starts from Reisenji Temple and takes at least two hours to complete.

Detour

Overlooking the rice fields of Tashibu-no-sho, once a manor in Kyoto, is a home-style restaurant called Shiki-sai, where it is a play on words between the four seasonal ingredients and color combinations.    It is located exactly halfway between Nakayama Senkyo and Kitsuki old town.

I always drop by this restaurant because they serve elaborate dishes using unexpected ingredients, but it’s hard work because the owner does everything by herself.    Even if you make a reservation, it’s better to contact her in advance to confirm.

 

climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
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The Kunisaki Peninsula is a training ground for Shugensha(Mountain Faith)

kunisaki fuki temple5 national treasure
kunisaki peninsula map
kunisaki peninsula map

The Kunisaki Peninsula is a group of former volcanoes that jut out into the Seto Inland Sea in a generally conical shape.    Because it is an old volcano, it has been eroded along a conical shape, with deep valleys radiating out to the sea.   A Buddhist culture was formed by incorporating Japan’s ancient Shinto religion (the Hachiman faith at Usa Shrine) into Buddhism (Tendai sect), which was introduced from the continent, and training was carried out by walking on the harsh peaks of a group of former volcanoes that stood out in deep valleys.

uji byodo-in
uji byodo-in, the same national  treasure

Fukiji Temple is an Amida Hall (national treasure), along with Uji’s Byodo-in Phoenix Hall and Hiraizumi Chuson-ji Konjiki Hall, and is the oldest wooden building in Kyushu, with its sloping roof evoking elegance.   According to a local  guide, it was a playground when he was little, so it was a luxury.   Not only are the precious Buddhist paintings inside the temple fading due to exposure to ultraviolet rays, but the security is not at all worthy of being considered a national treasure, but is rather non-vigilant, making it hard to believe that it is one of the three major Amida temples.   A statue of Amida Nyorai is carved out of a Japanese oak tree.

There is also a temple called Magi-Ohdo nearby, where many simple Buddhist statues remain. There are so many temples and large Buddha statues carved into cliffs that you will have to stay for several days to see them all over the place.

Detour (Four seasons’ vegitable restaurant)

There is a home-cooked restaurant called Shikisai (Four seasons’ vegitable restaurant directly translated in English) in a place overlooking a rice field called Tashibu-no-sho, which was the manor of Usa Jingu Shrine during the Heian period.   During the rice planting season, you can see the beautiful green terraced rice fields.   This was my first visit, but they serve elaborate dishes made with unexpected ingredients.    I want to stop by also next time.

kuju highway2
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