national treasure | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

2024-12-062024-12-07

Is the priest of Daizenji Temple (National Treasure) a winemaker?

Daizenji Temple is also called Grapes Temple. This is not because the priest is passionate about grape cultivation and wine making. It is said that during the Nara period, the monk Gyoki enshrined the Yakushi Sanzon holding a bunch of grapes that appeared in his dreams. In fact, the priest and temple officials grow grapes on the premises and set up tanks to make wine.

At the rest area with garden view, a glass of homemade (or sould I say “templemade”) wine is sold for 300 yen, and it comes with four delicious Koshu grapes as a snack, so it’s a good deal. I ended up buying a bottle(1800ml) of wine(Muscat Bailey A) as a souvenir.

Well, there are three elements that make this temple famous.

First, the Yakushi-do Hall and the Zushi that houses the Buddha statues are national treasures. The roof of Yakushido is made of cypress bark, and its curved shape is harmonious and beautiful. It was built during the Mongol invasion period of the Kamakura period, making it the oldest wooden structure in the Kanto region. In Kyoto, Senbon Shakado was built around the same time. The Nikko(sun) and Gakko(moon) Bodhisattvas and the 12 divine generals enshrined inside are very well-designed and give a sense of newness despite being old, but the story of the woman who explains them is too comical. I feel like it’s a bit of a mismatch.

daizenji (10) national treasure

daizenji (12) inside

daizenji (8)

Next, it is said that this was the temple where Katsuyori Takeda, who was defeated by the Oda army and headed for Mt. Tenmoku, stayed overnight praying for a counterattack. These records of Takeda’s demise remain in this temple.

Finally, at the end of the Edo period, the shogunate army and the Shinsengumi, who had a final battle with the new government army, established their tentative headquarter on the west side of Daizenji Temple to prevent the temple from being damaged by war.

daizenji (6) shinsengumi

The captain was Isamu Kondo, and the main gate of Daizenji Temple is depicted on the background of the nishiki-e(color print). The purpose of this battle was to seize Kofu Castle first and prevent the new government forces from invading Edo, but they were defeated by the new government forces led by Taisuke Itagaki. This was exactly the same history as when Katsuyori Takeda tried to reach Seiunji Temple for Reborn, but was preempted by the Oda army.

daizenji (3) a statue

daizenji (4) un statue

daizenji (14) garden

grape field

Detour

Speaking of food in Yamanashi, it’s “Houtou.”

restaurant kaiki (2) — restaurant minaki (2) entrance

It’s hard to tell how it’s different from udon, but the flour is kneaded without adding salt to keep it from becoming chewy, and then it’s cut up and simmered with vegetables without waiting too long. Therefore, some of the noodles will dissolve into the soup, creating a soup unique to “Houtou.”

restaurant kaiki (7) hoto — restaurant minaki (7) houtou

Enjoy houtou at a house designated as a registered tangible cultural property. The house “Minaki” is an old Japanese zelkova house built in 1896.

restaurant minaki (1)

restaurant minaki (3) watch out your head

restaurant minaki (4) persimmons

restaurant minaki (5)

restaurant minaki (6)

erinji (10) letters written on military flag — Go back to itinerary

2024-10-13

National Treasure Temples in Harima region that can be enjoyed better than Kyoto

ichijoji (1)steep stairs — ichijoji; steep stairs start

The three-storied pagoda is a national treasure. The hanging scrolls with portraits of Prince Shotoku Taishi and Founder of Tendai sect Saicho in the treasure hall are also national treasures. However, advance reservations are required for the latter. After paying the entrance fee at the foot of the temple mountain, I made my way up the more than 400 stone steps to the main hall where tickets to the treasure hall are sold, keeping an eye on the three-storied pagoda on my left but caring about the reservation time at the treasure hall. Then, I paid the ticket to the treasure hall to the monk at the main hall, and he told me that the treasure hall was down the stone steps and next to the entrance! Why aren’t they sold at the entrance? Seeing the disappointed look on my face, the monk told me that I could take my time to see the main hall and then visit the treasure hall on my way home. I’m thankful for that, but I’m starting to wonder why.

ichijoji (3)main hall — ichijoji; still stone steps to main hall

From the main hall, you can look down on the three-storied pagoda standing dignified in the middle of a dense mountain, and the gentle breeze is refreshing.

ichijoji (2)

ichijoji (4)pagoda national tresure

ichijoji (5)

On the side wall of the main hall, I found large letters that looked like they had been scrawled in ink. They are nice letters, but the content doesn’t seem to have anything to do with the temple. Later, when I stopped by Jodoji Temple (see next post) and saw almost the same on display, I realized that it was a doodle made by someone who had visited the temple at the time. Although it’s common in any era, it’s still a bold doodle.

ichijoji (8)ancient graffiti

ichijoji (9)inside of main hall

ichijoji (7)corridor of main hall

Well, I took my time touring the main hall and the three-storied pagoda, and finally stopped at the treasure hall on my way back, but it didn’t have a particularly strict entrance, and I was told that I could come in freely, which made me feel strange. There were various Buddhist statues from that time, and at the very back there were portraits of Shotoku Taishi and Saicho, but they were so sharp that I wondered, and when I read the description, it turned out to be an exquisite reproduction. Real national treasures are stored in museums, right? If that’s the case, what’s the point of requiring advance reservations, and of not selling tickets until you’re on top of the mountain?

It’s a temple full of questions, but at least it’s better than the crowded and uncomfortable temples in Kyoto.

2024-01-24

The Kunisaki Peninsula is a training ground for Shugensha(Mountain Faith)

The Kunisaki Peninsula is a group of former volcanoes that jut out into the Seto Inland Sea in a generally conical shape. Because it is an old volcano, it has been eroded along a conical shape, with deep valleys radiating out to the sea. A Buddhist culture was formed by incorporating Japan’s ancient Shinto religion (the Hachiman faith at Usa Shrine) into Buddhism (Tendai sect), which was introduced from the continent, and training was carried out by walking on the harsh peaks of a group of former volcanoes that stood out in deep valleys.

uji byodo-in, the same national treasure

Fukiji Temple is an Amida Hall (national treasure), along with Uji’s Byodo-in Phoenix Hall and Hiraizumi Chuson-ji Konjiki Hall, and is the oldest wooden building in Kyushu, with its sloping roof evoking elegance. According to a local guide, it was a playground when he was little, so it was a luxury. Not only are the precious Buddhist paintings inside the temple fading due to exposure to ultraviolet rays, but the security is not at all worthy of being considered a national treasure, but is rather non-vigilant, making it hard to believe that it is one of the three major Amida temples. A statue of Amida Nyorai is carved out of a Japanese oak tree.

kunisaki fuki temple1

kunisaki fuki temple3

kunisaki fuki temple2 black cat

kunisaki fuki temple4 amidadou

kunisaki fuki temple6 kaya with antiseptic effect

There is also a temple called Magi-Ohdo nearby, where many simple Buddhist statues remain. There are so many temples and large Buddha statues carved into cliffs that you will have to stay for several days to see them all over the place.

kunisaki sannomiyanokei

kunisaki magioudou

kunisaki tashibunosho motomiya carved buddha1

kunisaki tashibunosho motomiya carved buddha2 fudo myoo(center)

kunisaki scarecrows to increase population of depopulated village

Detour (Four seasons’ vegitable restaurant)

There is a home-cooked restaurant called Shikisai (Four seasons’ vegitable restaurant directly translated in English) in a place overlooking a rice field called Tashibu-no-sho, which was the manor of Usa Jingu Shrine during the Heian period. During the rice planting season, you can see the beautiful green terraced rice fields. This was my first visit, but they serve elaborate dishes made with unexpected ingredients. I want to stop by also next time.