Ryumonkyo Gorge and autumn leaves to enjoy the outdoors

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Shosenkyo is famous as a beautiful valley that anyone can easily walk and enjoy, but Ryumonkyo is also a valley where you can enjoy outdoor activities such as going down to the bottom of the gorge or climbing up a ladder.   The ground underfoot is soft and fluffy with fallen leaves, and there are wooden paths that make it easy to walk.    However, the valley is deep, there are waterfalls everywhere, and there are wooden bridges that have been washed away by rapids.

Along the way, there is a place where you can hear a drum-like sound when you step on it.    Apparently, this is because there are many gaps in the roots of the trees in the soil.    In addition to this, the 1 hour and 15 minute promenade is full of changes, such as a narrow gate made of huge stones piled up, and a zelkova tree that stretches out by splitting the stone in half.

Ryumonkyo walking map
Ryumonkyo walking map @source: Koshu city HP

Unlike the Ojira River Valley map, the map does not lie about the time required.    Finally, after seeing Kumo no Abyss, which is full of water, we climb steeply and arrive at our next destination, the entrance to Tenmokuzan Seiunji Temple with the view of the head of Mt.Fuji.

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Kumo no Abyss at Ryumon Gorge
seiunji (1)
Head of Mt. Fuji arriving at seiunji temple

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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Too exaggerated to call it “Oirase Valley in the west?”

akasai valley cover

The name of the valley is “Akasai Valley”.     It is usually read as “Akanishi”, but this is the Kansai way of reading it.    I happened to see a website that said “Oirase Valley in the west,” but I think the people of Tohoku might have hurt their pride by saying something outrageous (⇒ see a trip on Oirase Valley).

oirase river 6
The above is Oirase valley resemble to Akasai valley, simiar to Oirase valley?

I had a suspicion that I had never heard of a valley comparable to Oirase Valley, so I thought I had been fooled and wanted to check it out, so I decided to make this my main purpose for this trip.

The valley is located on the border with Tottori Prefecture, making it difficult to reach.    Moreover, cars are not allowed inside the valley, so you will need to rent an e-mountain bike at a nearby roadside station.    However, this is cheap at 1000 yen for 2 hours.    After being thoroughly instructed on the functions of the bike by a kind clerk (Listen carefully as this will be important later), we set off.    After getting used to the controls on the first paved road, we finally headed out onto the gravel road in the valley.    If you get stuck in a rut and try to force your way out, there is a risk that the handle will be grabbed and you will fall.   Come to think of it, if one person gets hurt and can’t move, the other one should abandon him and come back to the roadside station to inform the emargency.     In other words, there is no cell phone service in the valley.

The road along the valley used to run on a forest railway used to transport lumber, so there are no steep slopes, and the valley runs along the road all the way, so you can enjoy forest bathing while looking out at the valley as you head deeper into the valley.    I thought the water would be murky because of the heavy rain that came in the linear precipitation belt early in the morning, but the clear water was flowing down between the moss-covered rocks of various sizes.   Ah, this feeling definitely reminds me of Oirase Valley.    As I went deeper, that belief became more and more certain.

Along the way, you will also see the scenery that was used as the title back for the NHK historical drama “Gunshi Kanbei,” who was a tactician for Hideyoshi Toyotomi.    Even though it was a hot summer, I was able to get to the place where I could ride my bike in the natural air conditioning of the forest within an hour without meeting anyone.   I was able to enjoy a rich time.    I brought a bear bell just in case, but no bears have been spotted in this valley yet.    In autumn, the entire area could be covered with autumn leaves.

The return trip is downhill, although the slope is small, so be careful and brake only on the rear wheels.    I was so fascinated by the Oirase Valley that I almost slipped and fell twice.    The water from the valley is the drinking water for the city and the brewing water for sake breweries.

sun flower field
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Don’t believe the time required on the Ojira River Valley flyer

valley (8)
valley (1)suspention bridge as entrance
valley (1)suspention bridge as entrance

I made the mistake of entering the valley with a lighthearted attitude, believing in the information flyer that appeared to be a flat road running along the valley with an appropriate time required, hoping to feel the natural cooling effect of the valley during the hot summer.   At the entrance to the valley, a suspension bridge with a sign that says max 5 people are allowed invites a sense of adventure, but all we pass are children in swimsuits with floats.    Apparently, the waterfall basin (Senga-Fuchi) at the very entrance of the valley had been turned into an improvised pool.   The bright green waterfall basin looks like it has been filled with bath salts, and if you miss your chance to take a photo, it will be crowded with people.

valley (2)from bridge
valley (2)from bridge

Since it was a valley with so many small children around, I saw a flyer that said it would take 35 minutes to get to the next stop (Asahi-Fall), so I headed deeper into the valley, thinking it would be a nice walk.   After that, I could no longer hear the sounds of children playing, and after 35 minutes of climbing up a steep mountain path that took a long detour to get over a waterfall with steps, and climbing up and down chains and iron ladders, I finally arrived at Asahi fall after 50 minutes.     I’m already drenched in sweat, my throat is parched, and my legs are tired.   However, there was no signboard for the waypoint mentioned in the flyer, and after walking up the mountain road for another 20 minutes, there was a signboard (Asahi-Fall) for the waypoint.    The flyer said it would take 35 minutes, but it actually took 70 minutes.   After that, I continued walking faster and faster until I reached the turnaround point (Jinja-Fall), but I still couldn’t get there in the time specified in the flyer.    Normally, I think the time written on such flyers is written with sufficient margin, but don’t believe the time required on the flyer for Ojira River Valley.

I was only complaining about the time required on the flyer, but the valley itself is full of large white granite rocks, their whiteness is dazzling, and the clear water is flowing everywhere, making it refreshing.    My clothes are soaked with sweat, which is the exact opposite.    The ridge path on the way back was relatively flat, and we stayed on time here.    In the end, it took about 3 hours to turn around at the turnaround point.

jissoji2
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The wild horses of Cape Toi are always eating or scratching their necks

wild horses in toi cape

Kushima, which includes Cape Toi, was an enclave of the Takanabe clan (Akizuki family) in central Miyazaki Prefecture, serving as a buffer zone between the Satsuma clan (Shimadzu family) and Obi clan (Ito family), who had a grudge against each other during Edo period.   Even now, locals don’t seem to think of the Akizuki family very well, as they were one of the families who betrayed their allies in the Battle of Sekigahara, so the guide explained this part in hushed tones.

Since ancient times, this area has been breeding horses and supplying them to various regions as warhorses and agricultural horses to earn foreign currency.  After the Meiji Restoration, they have been protected in a wild state without human intervention.    The only things humans do are maintain water fountains and fences, burn the fields (apparently horses can’t chew if the grass is long), and conduct annual health checks and check on the number of horses.    Horses used to have numbers branded on their legs, but now using a method called frostbite branding, only white hair grows over the numbers.   I was very convinced when I heard that once the pigment is gone, only gray hair will grow again, similar to how we only grow gray hair as we get older.

Breeding is managed by leaving it to nature, so even if many foals are born in the spring (it is called “harukoma”), only a few born in early spring when the season is good will survive.   It is said that foals born during the rainy season will die if their mothers do not protect them from the rain because their body temperature will drop due to the rain.   In order to preserve their wild state, humans do not dare to help them with their fate.

In addition, young stallions make up a harem, and drinking water among them is determined by seniority.    The question arises as to what happens to other stallions, but it makes sense that stallions only come into heat at a certain age, while females come into heat at any age.   In other words, a stallion that is no longer in heat will leave the harem and form a herd with young stallions that are not in heat.    It is said that when young stallions are in heat, they will approach females even as old as their mothers and leave the male herd.

When horses stand still, they are either paying attention to their surroundings or are sleeping.    Therefore, it is dangerous to approach them at times like this.   When they get excited, they kick or run, but they usually spend most of their time either eating grass, or pressing their necks against the fence to scratch themselves because the insects around their necks are itchy.   Unlike cows, which eat the same grass, horses only have one stomach, so they defecate every two hours to keep their bodies from getting too heavy so that they can run when they sense danger.   Therefore, there is feces all over the meadow, but it doesn’t really smell because it hasn’t fermented in the intestines, and many people step on it without even realizing it.    We often see pictures of horses raising their heads and running, but this is not a normal situation for a horse, but an emergency situation for the horse.

All of the above is based on the guide’s explanation.    As I asked for a guide and observed the horses, I realized that there was so much I didn’t know. Instead of just staring at the horses and taking close-up photos of just the two of you and a horse without worrying about the risks, please ask for a guide.

Typical of regular horse-related tourism

Yabusame in Tono City and horseback hockey in Hachinohe City show the close relationship between horses and people.    On the other hand, the wild horses of Cape Toi can be observed in their completely natural state, offering new discoveries never seen before in tourism.

west coast (1)
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Cape Shiosezaki at OGA Peninsula

geosite fullscene
godzilla rock
godzilla rock

You can find Godzilla natural sculpture. and his tail, etc. at Geosite of Cape Shiosezaki.  Wind was very very strong !
Stopping by at this cape could be a good approach to OGA Peninsula and ‘NAMAHAGE’ Festival !

 

 

 

 

geosite boat rock
geosite boat rock

rough sea
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Sacred fountain origin of fresh water

sacred fountain
water-share-system
water-share-system

You can reach sacred site through 15min. walk from the entrance of public water plant.  Fresh water is mild, soft and warm in winter, maybe surely cold in summer.
It’s amazing that drinking water is supplied to all residence in Oga city from this spring in the manner of spirit of equality through circle distributer.

 

rough sea
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Tou no hetsuri(cliff of towers)  is a temple created by nature

tou no hetsuri viewpoint
tou no hetsuri explanation
tou no hetsuri explanation

The cliff of towers’ shape was created by nature, 1 million years of erosion and weathering.  People had been worshiping the tower like a Buddha.
The river flows gracefully and you can cross the suspension bridge and walk under the cliff of towers.

snake on sale
snake on sale

 

Bottled snake(mamushi or viper) with liquor is on sale as a souvenir at the entrance shop.  Who buy it?  Instead, be careful of walking the cliff of towers?

Gallery (click photos)

Detour

A cat stationmaster ‘Love’ welcome you at Ashinomaki Hot Spring station.  He will appear if he is in a good mood, but I don’t think he is fulfilling his duties as a stationmaster.  Although he is the stationmaster, he is merely living at the station.  In the countryside, we often see small animals as honorary stationmasters.

tou no hetsuri shrine
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too quiet and scared Nakanose Pond is the face that represents Geopark

nakanose numa viewpoint

I have never met such a spacious and refreshing scenery.  But it’s amazing because the horrific volcanic activity in 1888(recently!) created this landscape.  The collapse of the mountain body occurred on the Urabandai side due to the steam explosion as one of the volcanic activity, and rocks avalanche from the collapse dammed the river creating many lakes and ponds.  On the viewpoint, the top of chunk of rock,  you can imagine how Mt. Bandai collapsed and rocks avalanche rushed in the direction you were in to create lakes and ponds.

Geosite View (click photos)

Taking a walk, many chunks of rocks are recognized here and there and  become a blindfold, so when you pass through it, the scenery suddenly changes and a bear may suddenly appear.   That’s why a bear bell is indispensable if you are not enough bigger than a bear !

*)The Renge Pond walking and the Nakanose Pond walking are connected and enjoy quiet walking except for a bear.

Gallery (click photos)

tou no hetsuri shrine
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deep Nakatsugawa Valley with bright autumn leaves

nakatsugawa valley viewpoint
nakatsugawa valley bridge
nakatsugawa valley bridge

The normal tourist overlooks here, but those who love the countryside cannot.  You can enjoy the autumn colors even from the bridge, but for those with good legs, let’s go down the deep valley 15min for one way.

nakatsugawa valley4
nakatsugawa valley4

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gallery (click phtos)

Panoramic view of Onogawa and Akimoto Lake (click photos)

On the way to Nakatsugawa Valley, Bandai-Azuma Lake Line(road) runs along the ridge.  The mountains colored in autumn colors looked like broccoli !

tou no hetsuri shrine
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Urabandai Goshiki-Numa Ponds(Five colors ponds) walk

goshiki numa viewpoint
goshiki numa midoro
goshiki numa midoro

‘Red Pond’ in literary among Goshiki-NumaPonds is not real red.  The color of Hell Ponds in Beppu Hot spring (Oita prefecture) reproduces the color more faithfully. Five colors here mean that various colors can be found depending on the weather and season, etc.   Its color is due to the reflection of particles of the melted mineral matter.

goshiki numa map
goshiki numa map

 

 

To save time, recommend to use a bus for one way. Return to Goshiki-Numa entrance / Urabandai-Kogen by bus (to Inawashiro / Kitakata for each) to pick up the parked car there.  Check  in advance a time table of bus available per about one hour.  In case go forward to the other starting point taking a bus immediately after parking a car.

Gallery (click photos)

tou no hetsuri shrine
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