Since the era of the Murakami Domain in the Edo period, salmon resource management has been practiced with a focus on the fish’s homing behavior. Salmon were also utilized as preserved food and reportedly helped support the domain’s finances. Consequently, there is a culture of fully enjoying the entire salmon, leaving no part to waste. At the long-established shop “Kikkawa,” various parts of the fish are prepared and sold; additionally, at their separate restaurant, lunches can savor a full-course salmon mealwhile learning about the different preparation methods.
salmon house and dishes (8) shop
salmon house and dishes (1)
salmon house and dishes (2)
salmon house and dishes (3)
salmon house and dishes (7)
salmon house and dishes (5)
It is surprising to discover such a wide variety of ways to enjoy salmon—a fish that, until now, I had only ever seen served as a slice grilled salmon right in the center of a traditional ryokan(Japaese inn) breakfast tray.
Located at the northern edge of Niigata Prefecture, Murakami City is cut off from neighboring Yamagata Prefecture by steep coastal mountains; consequently, its townscape retains a strong atmosphere of the Edo period, featuring merchant houses and samurai residences from its days as a castle town. The “Black Wall Street” along Anzen-koji Lane is a particularly charming place for a stroll—an activity best enjoyed after savoring the local salmon cuisine.
murakami city walking (1)
murakami city walking (2)
murakami city walking (3)
murakami city walking (4)
murakami city walking (5)
murakami city walking (6)
murakami city walking (7)
murakami city walking (8)
murakami city walking (9)
murakami city walking (10)
murakami city walking (11)
murakami city walking (12)
murakami city walking (13)
murakami city walking
In May, local merchants, temples, and private households open their prized gardens—nurtured with great care—to the public free of charge. These are not merely displays of plants left to grow wild; the very fact that these gardens are open for others to view implies a significant investment of time, effort, and money in their maintenance. City dwellers who grow plants only in pots likely cannot fully appreciate the magnitude of that undertaking.
Fusai-ji Temple is located more or less than a ten-minute drive north of downtown Murakami. A magnificent garden has been created by incorporating the steep slope behind the temple grounds. While there is a special period in May when the garden is fully open to the public, it remains accessible year-round.
fusaiji temple (1) entrance
fusaiji temple (2)
fusaiji temple (15)
fusaiji temple (3)
fusaiji temple (8)
fusaiji temple (13)
fusaiji temple (10)
fusaiji temple (4) There’s a frog somewhere
fusaiji temple (14)
Panoramic View of garden
fusaiji temple (5) left
fusaiji temple (6) center
fusaiji temple (7) right
Visitors can also hike up the hill behind the temple, which offers a splendid view of the surrounding rural landscape.
fusaiji temple (12)
fusaiji temple (9)
fusaiji temple (11)
No specific fee is set on the entrance, so please offer a donation based on what you feel is appropriate. I consider maintaining this garden to be a form of spiritual practice, in a sense.
Many municipalities across Japan organize “Fox Wedding Processions” as tourist attractions—recruiting a bride and groom to reenact this traditional supernatural phenomenon—and claim to be the original home of the custom. Among them, the Fox Wedding in Tsugawa is the oldest, with roots dating back to classical literature.
These eerie phenomena fall broadly into two categories: “countless mysterious lights” that could easily be mistaken for a swarm of paper lanterns, and “sunshowers”—rain falling while the sun is shining. Both types are associated with foxes—creatures said to possess the power to bewitch humans—but the phenomenon in Tsugawa belongs to the former category; it is said that mysterious lights appear at night on Mt. Kirin, located on the opposite bank of the Agano River, which flows beside the town. The event, which draws large crowds, takes place over a weekend in June and continues into the night. During the weekend, a steam locomotive runs along the line connecting to Aizu, located in the upper reaches of the Agano River.
tsugawa (4)kirin-zan
tsugawa (1) Iron bridge
The reason there are so many shops in this town specializing in fermented foods lies in Tsugawa’s geographical location. During the Edo period, the primary mode of transport involved *Kitamae-bune* (merchant ships) that navigated the relatively calm Sea of Japan coast rather than the Pacific side.
The Agano River flows wide and calm as far as Tsugawa, making it navigable for transporting materials; at this point, goods were transferred to horses for delivery to or shipment out of Aizu. The combination of seafood and salt brought from Niigata and rice arriving from Aizu gave rise to the production of *koji*-based foods in Tsugawa. The miso purchased at Yamazaki Koji-ya lacks any harshness—offering instead a natural sweetness—and transcends the ordinary concept of miso.
tsugawa (2) malt shop
This area is also said to be the birthplace of the *gangi*—wide, arcade-like eaves extending from shopfronts over the street—which were created in snow-prone Niigata to allow people to move about on snow-covered roads. Isabella Bird, who traveled through Japan’s remote interior during the early Meiji era, also noted their existence in her travelogue.
She reportedly described the Agano River—which widens significantly starting at Tsugawa—as resembling the Rhine. Perhaps she likened the sheer cliffs of Mount Kirin in Tsugawa to the Lorelei Rock; then again, one might easily sail right past the actual Lorelei Rock without even noticing it, were it not for the announcements made on board. Indeed, so many tourists look around restlessly when the announcement is made. The Lorelei Rock is counted among the world’s “three major disappointments“; the other two include the Little Mermaid statue in Copenhagen—where an industrial zone is visible on the opposite shore—and the Manneken Pis in Brussels, which, despite being right next to the central Grand Place, is so small that one might easily walk right past it without noticing. If the Manneken Pis were huge, it would just look like an adult urinating while standing, so perhaps it couldn’t be helped.
Detour 1 (Huge ceder)
Near the town of Tsugawa stands the Shogun Sugi, a cedar certified by the Ministry of the Environment as the largest in Japan—surpassing even the famous Jomon Sugi of Yakushima. Its trunk circumference is said to be approximately 20 meters, though it is unclear exactly where that measurement is taken. On the other hand, people cheat on where they measure to make their waists look slimmer. Although the main trunk has fallen, multiple branched trunks surrounding it rise up together, towering high toward the sky. With an estimated age of 1,400 years, it dates back to the time when Prince Shotoku was alive. Incidentally, the name “Shogun” (General) is derived from the military commander who subjugated the Tohoku region during the Heian period.
tsugawa (6)
tsugawa (5)the biggest cedar
Detour 2 (Roof tiles)
While tourist destinations showcasing pottery-producing regions can be found all over Japan, it is rare to find a place like Aga City that promotes factories manufacturing roof tiles as a tourism asset. These factories are clustered where the Agano River emerges onto the plains, forming a walking path known as “Kawara Road” (Tile Road). While there are facilities like a bus stop house and restrooms made entirely of roof tiles, as well as a cafeteria featuring tile-based plates, the display that allows visitors to take photos of themselves appearing to sit atop a tiled roof is sure to be a hit on Instagram. However, since roof tiles aren’t exactly the sort of thing people buy as souvenirs, a bit of creative ingenuity is required.
roof tiles (1)walking on the top
roof tiles (2)
Because the region experiences heavy snowfall, the roof tiles used there must offer excellent thermal insulation and cold resistance; made from iron-rich clay, they fire into a distinctive lead-gray color. In recent years, however, modern Japanese homes have shifted toward lighter structural materials to reduce construction costs, leading to a move away from traditional tiles in favor of slate roofing—making beautiful tiled roofs an increasingly rare sight in urban areas. A factory belonging to Yasuda Yogurt—famous for its dairy products—is located right next to the tile factory.
Despite being located in an area with such heavy snowfall, the building is a three-story wooden structure and itself Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property, so the masterful skills of the carpenters remain in many places. It is a long-established inn featuring a radon hot spring—a rarity even on a national scale. Breathe in the radon-rich air and revitalize yourself. The meals are delicious, too, featuring primarily local ingredients.
seiko-kan (8)
seiko-kan (3)
seiko-kan (2) An alcove featuring carefully selected premium timber
This town is home to one of Japan’s three great iris gardens and features castle ruins at its center, with the town itself laid out in concentric circles around them; as for the feudal lord’s garden—Shimizu-en—it struck me as familiar, and indeed, it bears a striking resemblance to Kyoto’s Koke-dera (Saiho-ji). Whether the town’s promotional efforts were lacking or I simply failed to spot them myself, a little research revealed that there were plenty of other highlights to see.
shibata town walking (2)
shibata town walking (1)
shimizu-en (8)
shimizu-en (1)
shimizu-en (2)
shimizu-en (15)
shimizu-en (3)
shimizu-en (4)
shimizu-en (5)
shimizu-en (6)
shimizu-en (7)
shimizu-en (9)
shimizu-en (10)
shimizu-en (11)
shimizu-en (12)
shimizu-en (13)
shimizu-en (14)
Zoshunkaku, a building originally constructed in Tokyo’s Shitamachi (i.e.downtown) district by the prominent industrialist Kihachiro Okura—a native of this town—has been relocated here. Mr. Okura was the founder of numerous major corporations that endure to this day, including what is now known as Taisei Construction Corporation. This construction company was responsible for building a palace for Emperor Meiji; Zoshunkaku was constructed using the same techniques to serve as a state guest house for entertaining figures from the political and business worlds. It features a blend of Japanese and Western styles, yet the design of the second-story roof—reminiscent of a festival float—exudes a sense of grandeur. The interior is also exquisitely crafted, so captivating that one loses all track of time. Cakes and drinks are served inside. I made a special stop at the shop providing the same cakes—a long-established store near the castle called Yamanobe Confectionery—and found a wide array of options, particularly rolled cakes, which made choosing quite a dilemma.
zohshunkaku (1)
zohshunkaku (2)
zohshunkaku (3) Inlay work
zohshunkaku (4) The Dragon on the Ceiling
zohshunkaku (5)
zohshunkaku (6)
zohshunkaku (7) Floor tiles
zohshunkaku (8) Floor tiles
zohshunkaku (9)
zohshunkaku (10)
zohshunkaku (11)
Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town. Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing. The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.
shibata town walking (4)
shibata town walking (5)
shibata town walking (6)
shibata town walking (7)
shibata town walking (8)
shibata town walking (9)
shibata town walking (10)
Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town. Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing. The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.
My expectations for the town of Shibata were completely—and pleasantly—surpassed.
The area along the Tadami Line is one of the heaviest snowfall regions in Japan, and the snow is wet with a lot of moisture, so weak buildings will collapse. Therefore, in this region, ladders are already in place to allow people to climb onto the roofs and remove the large amounts of snow that have accumulated. It’s definitely not for Santa Claus. Also, the foundations of the houses are about the height of one story.
In this environment, the Meguro Residence, a thatched-roof house built over 200 years ago, still stands. Its thatched roof is more than twice as thick as a typical thatched roof, and a considerable number of thick pillars are installed inside to withstand heavy snowfall. The descendants of the Meguro family still exist today. At the time, they were positioned between the ruling magistrates and the village headmen who managed the farmers. They were known as “warimoto shoya” (super village headmen) and negotiated with the magistrates regarding the allocation of land tax, and were granted the right to have surnames and carry swords, effectively acting as the family in charge of local administration.
meguro house buried in snow
meguro house (2)Thick thatched roof
meguro house (3)
Even today, there is a large hearth in the center of the house where firewood is burning. Above the hearth hangs a large, flat structure called a “hidana,” which prevents sparks from flying and igniting the thatched roof. In case of fire, the chains hanging from it can be cut to cover the hearth. The phrase “staying awake all night” is often used, and it originates from the practice of servants watching over the hearth fire and protecting against thieves. Apparently, dozens of servants lived and worked in this house at the time.
meguro house (4)
meguro house (5)fire shelf
meguro house (8)
It’s impossible to imagine what it was like back then without listening to the guide’s explanation. I heard many interesting stories, such as how there are three Shinto altars, one of which is modeled after the main hall of Ise Grand Shrine; how, because people always pass through the same threshold as part of proper etiquette, the wood has become warped in that area due to the friction of their kimonos; and how, after the end of the samurai era, they built a power plant.
meguro house (9)
meguro house (6)
meguro house (7)
meguro house (10)
meguro house (11)
Detour(Sake Brewery)
sake brewery (4)Natural ice storage(left)
There’s a sake brewery that every visitor to the Meguro residence must stop by. It’s Tamagawa Brewery, which inherited the sake brewing license previously held by the Meguro family. They cover heavy winter snow with a special sheet to protect it from melting and age their sake at low temperatures throughout the year. After a quick tour of the brewery, I head straight for the tasting of the 10 different types of sake they offer.
sake brewery (1)
sake brewery (2)
sake brewery (3)
Detour(Tadami Railway)
tadami line in snow (15)
The Tadami Line, which connects Uonuma and Aizu, is famous for offering scenic views of remote areas from its train windows, but you can enjoy the scenery even just up to Echigo-Suhara Station, where the Meguro Residence is located. We crossed several rivers, and the river water was a deep blue, like the color of melted glaciers. While Echigo-Suhara Station has a very atmospheric exterior, be aware that it is not heated in the middle of winter.
He’s being promoted as Japan’s Michelangelo, but when someone suddenly mentions Michelangelo, it doesn’t immediately ring a bell. He is Ishikawa Uncho. When you search for Michelangelo’s representative works, the results are his sculpture of David, the Sistine Chapel’s Creation ceiling fresco, and the Last Judgment fresco. While the 3D carvings on the transoms, carved from both sides, and the carvings covering the entire ceiling of the memorial hall certainly bear some resemblance to Michelangelo’s masterpieces, the more precise depictions evoke Ito Jakuchu, and the splashing waves suggest an homage to Katsushika Hokusai.
In the central part of the temple’s main hall, a seductive celestial maiden playing a musical instrument is carved into the transom. However, on the other side of the transom, which is only visible to the head priest, the naked back of the celestial maiden is carved. You won’t find a temple like this anywhere else in Japan. The transoms also feature carvings depicting stories and peacocks that devour the poisons of the world. It would be fun to attend a boring Buddhist memorial service at a temple like this.
Beside the few steps leading up to the memorial hall stand Nioh statues that resemble David, but whose faces are undeniably anime-like. And once you reach the top of the stairs, you are so overwhelmed by the gigantic sculptures covering the entire ceiling, which seem within reach, that you don’t even have time to look at the memorial tablets.
Ishikawa Uncho from chity brochure(3)
YoshidayThe scene depicts Zen Master Dogen, nearly attacked by a tiger, summoning a dragon with a thrown stick (this part somehow reminds me of Pokémon), with an eagle observing the scene, carp swimming upstream against a waterfall, and small birds flapping their wings on the cliff face. However, various other animals are scattered among the sculptures, and the level of detail is so exquisite that you’ll want to lie down in the memorial hall and examine it closely. You shouldn’t actually lie down on it.
Ishikawa Uncho from chity brochure(2)
There is also another sculpture, though uncolored, depicting a figure copying scriptures at a long table, but incorporating perspective. Furthermore, the front of the memorial hall building is adorned with intricate carvings. I was able to photograph these, but photography is prohibited inside. For more details, please purchase the photo book. Incidentally, the interior photos in this blog are from the tourist association’s brochure.
saifuku temple (1)
saifuku temple (3)
saifuku temple (4)
saifuku temple (5)
saifuku temple (6)
saifuku temple (2)
Detour
Yoshidaya’s cream puffs
Yoshidaya‘s “Cookie Choux” is popular for its freshly baked, crispy pastry and smooth, light custard cream filling. In addition to Western-style sweets, they also have a wide selection of Japanese sweets. Yoshidaya is located in the shopping street just before crossing the Uonogawa River, on the way from Echigo-Horinouchi Station to Eirinji Temple.
The main gate of Fukoji Temple is said to be a replica of the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko Toshogu Shrine, and was commissioned by the temple’s parishioners through donations, so they must have been very wealthy at the time. Moreover, it was built to withstand heavy snowfall of up to 3 meters. Therefore, many support beams are placed at the eaves to withstand the weight of the snow.
fukou temple (1)
fukou temple (2)
More famous here is the Bishamondo Naked Pushing Festival held in early March. When I visited, it was just two days before the festival, and preparations were in full swing. The young men were in the process of carrying a large candle weighing 50 kg. During the festival, they move around carrying the candle, so they are covered in hot wax.
fukou temple (3)
fukou temple (4)
fukou temple (5)
big candles
fukou temple
Bishamondo Temple was built by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, who pacified Tohoku during the Heian period, to pray for victory and a bountiful harvest. In the past, the statue of Bishamonten was only unveiled during the New Year’s visit, and the festival originated from people pushing and shoving to get to the temple as quickly as possible. However, nowadays, one can’t help but think that there’s no need to strip naked, perform water rituals, and then push and shove each other naked inside a temple. In the Tohoku region, winter naked festivals are still held at temples, shrine and others in various places, and usually the main event is a scramble to grab the first good fortune of the new year. However, here it’s simply a matter of pushing and shoving, so unless you participate, you really won’t understand how everyone gets into a trance-like state. Despite attracting many visitors in the midst of a snowstorm exceeding 3 meters, it might be wiser to watch the live stream on YouTube.
Source: @bisyamondo
Detour
A bronze statue of Prime Minister Kakuei Tanaka, who hails from this region, stands proudly in front of east side of Urasa Station. The fact that it has a snow-sheltering roof above it is typical of a snowy region. Just like Fukoji Temple, on the west side of the station there is Ezumiya, which makes bento boxes to order. Even though they are bento boxes, the rice is from Uonuma, so it’s delicious.
