Numerous waterfalls created by the eruption of Mt. Aso

harajiri fall6

The area was completely covered by pyroclastic flows from the great eruption of Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago, and the heat of the eruption transformed this into welded tuff.     As it cooled further, its volume contracted, creating countless long vertical cracks, and subsequent erosion revealed columnar joints that can be seen everywhere.     This is clearly visible in the waterfall.

Bat Falls

You can’t get close to the waterfall, it can only be seen from above, the road isn’t shown on car navigation systems, and the road to get there is so narrow that even a compact car would likely go off the rails, so the whole experience of getting there is filled with a sense of unease and a sense of being in a remote area.    Suddenly, a parking space and a space to turn around appear. This is thanks to the local people who have maintained the area.     Please check the entrance (“Park golf course” sign) from the main road (National Route 502) and the terrain from an aerial photograph beforehand.     Cars cannot pass each other, but it seems that the road has been widened recently.

bat fall2
bat fall2

The waterfall is shaped like a bat with its wings spread, and in the Edo period, a wooden slide was built on part of it to allow ships to pass through.     People in the past were amazing.     The Kuju mountain range can be seen beautifully beyond the waterfall.     It’s a place worth visiting.

Harajiri Falls is like Niagara Falls

The collapse of the tuff rocks over a width of 120m created a circular waterfall similar to Niagara Falls.     The waterfall and the surrounding scenery are so beautiful that they make you think of a movie set or Disneyland.    There is a suspension bridge that offers a panoramic view of the falls, but once you cross it the road is closed off beyond that point.

harajiri fall6
harajiri fall6

Chinda Falls

The collapse occurred over a width of 100m, creating a 20m-high step.     It is famous for being depicted in a sumi-e painting by Sesshu during the Muromachi period.    Unfortunately, the original painting was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake, and only copies remain.    Sesshu also painted Amanohashidate in Kyoto, so people really did travel a lot by foot in the past.

chinda fall by sesshu source yuagariart
chinda fall by sesshu at source “yuagariart.com”
chinda fall
chinda fall

In modern times, a dam was built behind the falls to generate hydroelectric power, and the structure remains.     At first, I thought it was just part of the falls.    The welded tuff that forms the foundation of the waterfall is a geology that is weak against vertical shocks, and has repeatedly collapsed due to being unable to withstand large-scale flooding.     As a result, the waterfall has gradually moved upstream over a long period of time.  Kyushu Electric Power Co. reinforced the rocks around the base of the waterfall, and now it is in its current form.     Even man-made structures like dams can sometimes help preserve the natural landscape.   There was a lot of water and it was making a roaring noise.

 

 

 

climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
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This is Little Kyoto, Taketa Old Town

taketa9 earthen wall of samrai residence
taketa8 aso mountains
taketa8 aso mountains
taketa7 hirose lieutenant
taketa7 hirose lieutenant

Taketa City is famous for the ruins of Oka Castle, a castle built on top of a cliff.  It is the motif of the song “Kojo no Tsuki” (Moon over the Ruins of the Castle) composed by the musician Rentaro Taki, but I’ve already been there so I’ll pass this time.    I took a walk around the old town, which I hadn’t been able to see last time.     It’s a town with a sense of history like Kyoto.     I was surprised to see a bronze statue of Lieutenant Hirose, who carried out the Port Arthur blockade operation during the Russo-Japanese War.     I didn’t know he was from here.    After the operation, the Japanese Navy, led by Commander Togo Heihachi, faced off against the Russian Baltic Fleet, which was said to be the most powerful fleet in the world at the time.

In one corner of the samurai residence is the Hidden Christian Cave Chapel, giving the area a sense of its rich history.

Finally, we had a special lunch (reservation needed in advance) at Okura Shimizuyu, a café that was once a bathhouse.     Apparently, his parents own a vegetable shop next door, so they served us a variety of vegetable dishes.     I couldn’t finish it all.     They even served us matcha green tea.

taketa35 fukujyuenn distilled spirits factory and shop
taketa35 fukujyuenn distilled spirits factory and shop

Our final stop was a barley shochu brewery in town, where we had the opportunity to try a variety of shochu while the proprietress was busy on her way to Tokyo to attend a wedding.

 

 

 

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Mount Kuju, a mass of multiple volcanoes, loves sweets

climbing19 hossho mountain and nishisenrigahama

Mount Kuju is a place where you can enjoy a leisurely day of mountain hiking without having to stay overnight.    However, here I would like to introduce a short 2-hour round trip trek to Mount Kuju, which shows off enough a variety of different faces, and the rewards that are well worth it.

climbing1 start from makinoto mountain pass
climbing1 start from makinoto mountain pass

I would like to see the whole mountain covered in pink Kirishima Azalea flowers in May or June, but I have heard that the mountain gets congested.     In the end, I end up just taking pictures of the line of climbers that stands out against the pink mountain.    So this time, I went in late October to search for autumn leaves.

The easiest way to get to the summit is from Makinoto Pass along th road, which gives you the highest altitude possible as the starting point.

 

 

At first, the mountain trail is a long, gradual concrete slope that can be tiring.     However, you can get past this point and head towards Mount Kutsukake.

Along the way, you can see Mt. Yufudake and the Aso mountain range, and at the end you can enjoy the autumn foliage of Mt. Hossho and Ohgigahana.     I didn’t see anyone wearing high heels up here, but you can climb in normal shoes.    The area around the summit of Mt. Kutsukake is full of rocks, but after that the trail continues along a gentle ridge.     If you have the stamina and time, you can go a little further.

 

chez tani
chez tani

A detour or a reward (Sweets Restaurant)

Return to Makinoto Pass and head south, cross the pass and the Aso mountain range will come into view, and you will then see Chez Tani Senomoto-Kogen store.    The view of the Aso mountain range from the full-length windows is a sight to behold, but the 90-minute cake buffet for 3,300 yen is a menu that will make you forget all about it – a menu that is sure to satisfy any desire.    If you can’t do something like that, the 1500 yen 2 cakes set with drinks is enough.     The cake portions are too big, so you forget to enjoy the view.

chez tani showcase
chez tani showcase
chez tani aso from window
chez tani aso from window

 

 

climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
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Yamanami Highway is Mountain wave itself

yamanami highway7 aso view

The Yamanami Highway is a road that connects Yufuin to Aso, passing through the Kuju mountain range.     The scenery overlooking the mountain range changes rapidly, and the road has moderate curves, so you can enjoy an exhilarating drive while listening to music.    Along the way, stop at the observation deck where you can get a full view of Mt. Yufu-dake.    Mt. Yufu-dake is also known as Bungo Fuji, and its summit is made up of two well-balanced peaks.     Although it is different from the shape of Mount Fuji that is generally associated with it, the Mount Fuji as it is called in various regions is probably a mountain that constitutes a representative mental landscape of each region.

Just because you’re not driving doesn’t mean you should fall asleep.     This is a route where you should enjoy the beauty of mountain waves.    It’s especially amazing to pass through the Kuju mountain range to the south and see the Aso mountain range in the sunset from the pass.

We descend the mountain and head towards my usual lodging, Kurokawa Onsen Sanga, as the silver grass sways and sparkles towards the sunset.    I came here again looking forward to the food.     I apologize for the photos being all about food.     But every dish and its tableware is a work of art.

Kurokawa Hotspring “Sanga”

 

climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
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Castle town Kitsuki with picturesque slopes

kitsuki castle town9 accounting place slope
kitsuki castle town3 vinegar house slope
kitsuki castle town3 vinegar house slope

I wonder how to read this kanji of city name as Kitsuki.    It is composed of the kanji characters for pestle, which is used to knead rice cakes, and construction, so it seems to be auspicious.    Even more auspicious, this kanji is also used as part of the address of Izumo Taisha Shrine where The god of nation building is enshrined.    There is a theory that the place name originated from a typo on a red seal letter (a document guaranteeing territory) given to feudal lords by the shogunate, but is this true?

 

 

kitsuki castle town13
kitsuki castle town13

Kitsuki is also said to be one of the Little Kyotos, but what exactly is a Little Kyoto?     There is an organization called All Japan Kyoto Committee, which all cities across Japan that are considered Little Kyotos join, and the three requirements for membership are that a city have a landscape similar to Kyoto, historical ties, and traditional industries and performing arts.    Onomichi City is also a member, but what is missing in Takehara City(*), which calls itself Little Kyoto and is close to Onomichi?     Or is the membership fee too high?     Or is Onomichi opposed to joining?     I wonder if there are various adult reasons for a city like this to join.    It seems like it’s very difficult for new members to join either the EU or NATO.

(*)After looking into it more closely, I found that Takehara City was a member but withdrew on its own, and Onomichi City has now also withdrawn.     Is the name value of Little Kyoto no longer effective?    This may be due to the diversification of tourism appeal.

Anyway, it seems like it’s popular to take photos on the slopes in kimono.    There are a lot of kimono rental shops.    It’s a quiet and nice town.    The castle town of Kitsuki is made up of samurai residences built on two plateaus running east to west, and merchant houses on the lowlands surrounded by these plateaus.    That’s why there are slopes everywhere.    When you go up to one plateau, the other slopes seem to be right in front of you, so it makes a great picture.   If you walk along the southern plateau to the eastern end, you will see Kitsuki Castle as if it is floating on the sea.     This is also worth seeing.

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The Kunisaki Peninsula is a training ground with a series of strangely shaped rocks

nakayamasenkyo yaba viewpoint1 left
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland sea
nakayamasenkyo20
nakayamasenkyo20

Although the elevation is only 300 metres, the tension of climbing up rocky terrain at such an incredible height is perhaps due to its steepness and the excellent views.    Nakayama Senkyo is a place that tests your courage, with a series of chain sections, narrow stone bridges(Mumyo bridge) where stones support each other to cross valleys, and knife-edge saddles(Uma-no-se; horse back), and is not the kind of place you would casually go trekking.

The Ministry of the Environment calls it the Kunisaki Peninsula “Minemichi (Mountain road)” Long Trail and recommends it, but it is truly a training ground.     I don’t recommend it on windy days.  (On the other hand, the ”Michinoku” Coastal Trail, which was restored after the Great East Japan Earthquake, is recommended even on windy days.)    However, once you reach the top, you can see the strangely shaped rocks and peaks, and beyond that the Seto Inland Sea.     Jizo statues are watching over you from every angle.

Once you go ahead beyond the top, you’ll struggle to find the way down.    There’s a hidden path to the rear left at a sharp angle, so if you miss it and go ahead, you’ll find yourself suddenly faced with a sheer cliff, losing track of your position and panicking.    I almost panicked too, but I calmed down and walked back to the path, where I found the entrance to the descent, but it was a long downhill climb from here to the bottom.

The circuit course starts from Reisenji Temple and takes at least two hours to complete.

Detour

Overlooking the rice fields of Tashibu-no-sho, once a manor in Kyoto, is a home-style restaurant called Shiki-sai, where it is a play on words between the four seasonal ingredients and color combinations.    It is located exactly halfway between Nakayama Senkyo and Kitsuki old town.

I always drop by this restaurant because they serve elaborate dishes using unexpected ingredients, but it’s hard work because the owner does everything by herself.    Even if you make a reservation, it’s better to contact her in advance to confirm.

 

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Beppu where both people and food are steamed

kannawa hotspring view from east entrance bus stop

It seems that since the Edo period, common people have enjoyed ranking hot spring resorts with sumo-like rankings, but in modern rankings, Beppu Onsen is always ranked as the western “Yokozuna.”    Beppu is like a collection of many hot spring resorts, but regardless of their ranking, there are small hot spring resorts all over Japan that have their own unique characteristics, for example Geto hot spring, Ginzan hot spring, Matsukawa hot spring and Tsuta hot spring.

kannaw hotspring steam everywhere
kannaw hotspring steam everywhere

Hot springs can be found everywhere in Beppu.    When you climb up the hill and look out over the city, you can see hot spring steam rising from everywhere, and you can feel that the town of Beppu is built on magma underground.    The best view point is the bus stop of Kan-nawa Hotspring East Exit or Steam observation deck with small parking space. (>>refer to the map below)

There are public hot springs all over the place with no frills, just a tiled bathtub in the middle.    There is no caretaker at the entrance, and locals enter without permission.    In addition, the steam bath with medicinal herbs inside the sauna has a relaxing natural scent.     Takegawara Onsen, a splendid Karahafu hot spring near the coast, will test your mettle with its heat.

The ultimate way to enjoy hot springs is to cook steamed dishes.    You procure your own ingredients, arrange them in a colander, and cook them just over hot spring steam for the optimal time for each ingredient.   Steaming with hot spring steam has a slightly different taste than steaming on a regular stove, probably because of the hot spring ingredients.   The Yanagiya Inn we stayed at has an Italian restaurant that serves steamed dishes, as well as a kitchen where you can cook your own steamed dishes.

The best way to enjoy Beppu is to experience something a little different from the typical tourist route of visiting Jigoku Onsen (Hell Hotspring).    Of course, I won’t forget to visit Jigoku Onsen.

kuju highway2
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Buddha statues from Usuki cannot be taken out

usuki6 jizo stone buddha
usuki10
usuki10

Buddha statues are made of five types of materials: metal, lacquer, wood, stone, and earth, and the materials have changed over time.    Naturally, costs, time, and techniques vary depending on the material, but it’s surprising that the old ones are superior in all respects.   In the Asuka period, represented by Horyu-ji Temple, Buddha statues were made of gilt bronze, although they were small, but later on, lacquer was used to make them lighter so that they could be carried out in case of frequent temple fires caused by lightning.  The Asura statue at Kofukuji Temple is a representative work.

shoujyouji kakushi
shoujyouji kakushi (Source: website of village Yugawa)

Furthermore, as Buddhism spread, the demand for Buddhist statues increased, and people began to make Buddhist statues using wood, which was easy to procure and could be produced in a short time.  During the Heian period, there were many Buddhist statues made of one piece of wood.    There are more wooden Buddhist statues in Nara than in Kyoto, but the surviving single-wood Buddha statues are valuable because the Heike family burned down temples that sided with the Genji clan at the end of the Heian period.  Therefore, the precious single-wooden Buddha statues surprisingly remain in the region.    One of the representative examples is the Yakushi Nyorai statue, a national treasure, at Shoujyouji Temple in the Aizu region of Fukushima Prefecture, where Buddhist culture was flourishing.

When it became difficult to procure a single large piece of wood to carve a Buddha statue from, they introduced the method of marquetry and division of labor to enable mass production in a short time.   This led to the development of the Kei-ha school, whose representative was the Buddhist sculptor Unkei.  From the Kamakura period onward, muscular statues were made using marquetry.

On the other hand, regarding stone making, large amounts of marble suitable for carving were produced around the Mediterranean Sea, so stone sculptures were produced in large quantities during the Greco-Roman period, but in Japan there was a lack of natural stone suitable for carving.    As a result, 60-70% of the Buddha statues carved directly into cliffs are located in Oita Prefecture.

Usuki is home to many stone cliff Buddha statues that have been designated as national treasures, and are said to date from the late Heian period to the Kamakura period.    Not only is the carving beautiful, but the colors remain as well.    There are all kinds of Buddhist statues, including Amida Nyorai, Yakushi Nyorai, Dainichi Nyorai, and Jizo Bosatsu.

usuki12 black garlic famous for TV shopping
usuki12 black garlic famous for TV shopping

By the way, many of the souvenir shops here sell black garlic as a way to promote health, but I wonder why.    I heard that you can make black garlic yourself by heating and fermenting raw garlic in an electronic jar for 20 days, as I saw on a Japanese satellite TV advertising program.    It’s quite expensive to buy.   All the souvenir shops reminded me that Japan’s satellite broadcasts are mostly commercials for health-promoting foods, jewelry, or bedding.

kuju highway2
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Laputa (Ghibli) is not the only castle in the sky

oka castle8 kuju mountains (2)

The next morning, the mountain road leading back to the Yamanami Highway was a tunnel of autumn leaves, shining brightly.

On the road to Taketa City, I come across a light truck with an elegant English Pointer on its back.    The pointer on the loading platform does not look at me easily.   He is balanced well on the carrier.

oka castle6
parabolic curve

Meanwhile, I arrived at Taketa.    I didn’t have enough time to visit the old town (>refer to the post in the near future), so I headed straight to Oka Castle.   This castle was the setting for “Kojo no Tsuki” (“The moon over the ruined castle” in English) composed by Rentaro Taki who spent his childhood here.     It’s interesting that the admission ticket comes in the form of an old period scroll with a guide map of Oka Castle, but it gets in the way and is inconvenient when it comes to taking it home.   Although only the stone walls remain of this mountain castle, the stonework is beautiful and draws a parabolic curve.

oka castle9 do not the same thing
Do not the same thing

Since there is no protective fence, you can sit on the protruding tip of the stone wall, but it doesn’t feel like you’re alive.    It feels like my lower abdomen is falling out.   Those with a strong heart can admire the beautiful Kuju Mountain Range from here.    There are several castles in the sky floating in the morning mist in Japan, but Oka Castle, which appears out of nowhere amidst layers of mountains, is a true Ghibli castle in the sky.

 

 

kuju highway2
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Giant Suspension Bridge and unrelated snake spectacle

suspension bridge3
suspension bridge0
suspension bridge0

I used to think that suspension bridges were built out of necessity, but seeing this made me realize that they were purposely built in places where they didn’t need to be built, just to make people feel scary.    Many people walk on the suspension bridge, which looks just like a wide pedestrian bridge.   Although the suspension bridge uses fairly thick wire rope, you can still feel some sway.    There is a magnificent waterfall that can only be seen from here, but the scale of the view from the suspension bridge is so large that the waterfall feels small.

There are also places in the Tohoku region where the views from bridges are dynamic.    Johgakura Bridge in Aomori Prefecture is a good place to stop by on your way to the Shirakami Mountain Range and Lake Towada as above photos.    It’s also a good idea to stop by the bridge that spans the Nakatsugawa Valley in Fukushima Prefecture near Goshikinuma on Mt. Bandai.

t

Once you cross the suspension bridge, you will see a building that looks like a haunted house at the festival venue.    In front of the house, there was a crowd of people who seemed to be hesitating whether to enter or not.   This place holds a spectacle where customers can touch and hold white snakes in hopes of attracting financial luck.    I was reluctant to enter, but my companion was blinded by financial fortune and we decided to enter.

When I pay, the thick curtain in front of me opens and I come face to face with two white snakes.    One of them is called “Toguro,” which coils itself on my hand, and the other is “Makitsuki,” which wraps around my arm.”    No matter who holds them, these snakes maintain the same posture as their namesake, so these must be their favorite poses.   The touch was unlike anything I had ever felt before, neither cold nor warm, and I was filled with the desire to return them as soon as possible.    In the end, it was the people at the show booths who were lucky to make money.

Detour

Tonight we will be staying at Kiyasuya in Sujiyu Onsen, but Sujiyu Onsen is also home to a famous public bathhouse “Utase-yu.”   The name Sujiyu originally came from the fact that the hot spring ingredients are effective for soothing tired muscles, but the public bath is an ultimate hot spring where the hot spring water is dropped from a height of about 3 meters to soothe the body.

kuju highway2
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