religion | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

2024-11-20

Another Zenkoji Temple

A huge wooden building that stands out by far even from a distance. You can see the form that is exactly like the original Zenkoji Temple in Nagano. The layout of the buildings on the site is also the same as the original. It turns out that Shingen had transferred a lookalike to avoid the ravages of war with Uesugi Kenshin, his rival.

zenkoji (6)

zenkoji hondo

(left) another Zenkoji (righ) original Zenkoji

However, the entire main hall is colored in red to match the red uniform of the Takeda corps, which is very typical of Shingen. In addition, original Zenkoji was originally the Honda family residence, and Buddhist statues and ancestors were enshrined on the left and right sides of the inner shrine, and were treated equally, but another Zenkoji, which was built by Shingen, did not enshrine the Honda family ancestors. As proof of this, at another Zenkoji temple, the Takeda family crest and the Tokugawa family crest, which was rebuilt after the temple was destroyed by fire, are displayed on the front of the main hall.

zenkoji (7)

Additionally, a singing dragon is painted on the ceiling, and if you clap your hands in a specific spot, a tremendous echo will be heard between the ceiling panels and the floor. You can really feel the influence of Zen Buddhism during the Sengoku period. On the other hand, I remember that the original Nagano ceiling painting was a gift from the imperial family.

zenkoji (1) Sanmon

zenkoji (2)

zenkoji (8)

When you think of Zenkoji Temple, you are guaranteed to visit a place under the Buddhist altar in pitch darkness to connect with the Buddha through the key (alter tour), but of course there is a similar experience at another Zenkoji. However, the length of the walk in the dark is short and the turns are sharp, so those who have experienced the original will be surprised at how different it is and occasionally bump their heads. If you are careless, you will pass by without touching the key, so be careful. Don’t forget to see the war drum before going to the darkness. This is the real one used by the Takeda army in the Battle of Kawanakajima. Let’s tap it a little bit without being noticed by the people around you.

zenkoji (3)

The treasure hall here is a must-see and contains the oldest wooden statues of Minamoto no Yoritomo and Sanetomo. The year of manufacture is close to the year of death, so it seems that it is almost a copy of the real face. Sanetomo has the look of a court noble, but in contrast, Yoritomo has a stout face and an aquiline nose. You can see from his face that he is highly suspicious.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag — Go back to itinerary

2024-10-192024-10-27

Kaikei’s Amida Triad statue and hall that embody the Western Pure Land (National Treasure)

It is said that there is a world of ease in the far west where lotus flowers bloom, free from suffering and worries. Buddhism associates the fear of death with the west, where the sun sets, and preaches that paradise lies in the west. Therefore, Amitabha Buddha is enshrined in the west. Jodoji Temple is the embodiment of this idea in its original form.

This is one of temples which were built in various places to collect donations for the reconstruction of Todaiji Temple in Nara. It is such a magnificent temple that if they had that kind of money, they should have used it to rebuild Todaiji itself. The shape of main hall’s roof reminds us of Gangoji Temple in Nara.

jodoji(2)main hall

jodoji(4)

jodoji(5)hydrangea in summer

Once inside, the setting sun shining through lattice doors illuminates the floorboards, and the giant Amida Triad shines golden in the reflected light. It gives a sense of the great imagination that came with this effect at the time. Please note that the closing times are different in summer and winter. Maybe it’s because the sunset time is different. On the other hand, there is also a lunch break time. Interestingly, there is Hachiman Shrine, which cuts through the flow of traffic within the temple grounds.

The chief priest of the sub-temple, Kanki-in adjacent to Jodoji Temple is making cute dolls made of clay. They also have seasonal dolls, which is a great appeal to repeat customers. However, even though it’s a temple and not a shrine, the dolls come with fortune telling fortunes.

promenard to sub temple (1)

promenard to sub temple (2)

sub temple (3)

sub temple (1)

sub temple (2)

Detour

In summer, a huge sunflower field appears just around Jodoji Temple.

Today’s INN

A hot spring inn located in the back of Himeji City.

2024-10-13

National Treasure Temples in Harima region that can be enjoyed better than Kyoto

ichijoji (1)steep stairs — ichijoji; steep stairs start

The three-storied pagoda is a national treasure. The hanging scrolls with portraits of Prince Shotoku Taishi and Founder of Tendai sect Saicho in the treasure hall are also national treasures. However, advance reservations are required for the latter. After paying the entrance fee at the foot of the temple mountain, I made my way up the more than 400 stone steps to the main hall where tickets to the treasure hall are sold, keeping an eye on the three-storied pagoda on my left but caring about the reservation time at the treasure hall. Then, I paid the ticket to the treasure hall to the monk at the main hall, and he told me that the treasure hall was down the stone steps and next to the entrance! Why aren’t they sold at the entrance? Seeing the disappointed look on my face, the monk told me that I could take my time to see the main hall and then visit the treasure hall on my way home. I’m thankful for that, but I’m starting to wonder why.

ichijoji (3)main hall — ichijoji; still stone steps to main hall

From the main hall, you can look down on the three-storied pagoda standing dignified in the middle of a dense mountain, and the gentle breeze is refreshing.

ichijoji (2)

ichijoji (4)pagoda national tresure

ichijoji (5)

On the side wall of the main hall, I found large letters that looked like they had been scrawled in ink. They are nice letters, but the content doesn’t seem to have anything to do with the temple. Later, when I stopped by Jodoji Temple (see next post) and saw almost the same on display, I realized that it was a doodle made by someone who had visited the temple at the time. Although it’s common in any era, it’s still a bold doodle.

ichijoji (8)ancient graffiti

ichijoji (9)inside of main hall

ichijoji (7)corridor of main hall

Well, I took my time touring the main hall and the three-storied pagoda, and finally stopped at the treasure hall on my way back, but it didn’t have a particularly strict entrance, and I was told that I could come in freely, which made me feel strange. There were various Buddhist statues from that time, and at the very back there were portraits of Shotoku Taishi and Saicho, but they were so sharp that I wondered, and when I read the description, it turned out to be an exquisite reproduction. Real national treasures are stored in museums, right? If that’s the case, what’s the point of requiring advance reservations, and of not selling tickets until you’re on top of the mountain?

It’s a temple full of questions, but at least it’s better than the crowded and uncomfortable temples in Kyoto.

2023-08-112023-08-10

Climb the 785 stone steps and see Mt. Fuji from Konpira

Konpira-san has a strong character of the god of sea routes, but in the feudal era when people were prohibited from moving from distant regions, they were allowed to visit Konpira. It is said that Konpira pilgrimage became very popular in the Edo period because no one could reach the main shrine unless they climbed 785 steps on their own, and because rumors were exaggerated after the people who visited the shrine returned home.

konpira10 a dog worships on behalf of its master

It is said that those who could not go by themselves wrapped money, goods, and addresses around their dogs, and entrusted those who went to the shrine to visit with their dogs. If the entrusted person gave up on the way, it is said that he entrusted the dog to another person who was visiting. This is a surprising system because it is close to the idea of modern Internet protocols.

Before starting the climb, first fill yourself up with “Sanuki Udon”. Shrines are often decorated with wooden sacred horses, but here there are two real horses that are not ornaments. In addition, perhaps to pray for safe navigation, even a large screw is decorated.

sanuki udon dinning

sanuki udon cool

sanuki udon side menu chicken

konpira11 real divine horse 72 years old in human terms

konpira11 real horse exercise

konpira11 screw

If you count the stone steps up to the main shrine, there are 786 steps. However, when the number is read in Japanese, it becomes “worry”(Na-Ya-Mu in Japanese), and it is bad luck even though you came to the shrine. Therefore, inserting a stone stair that goes down one step to make a total of 785 steps is a very Japanese solution. It’s a people who likes puns. I don’t know where to go down one step when I’m dazed, but if I know in advance that I’m going to go down one step somewhere on the long stone steps, I feel nervous and have a little fun.

stone step upto tea house — Click above to refer to stone steps to Mt.Haguro Shrine

A similar story can be found at the 2446 stone steps on Mt. Haguro Shrine in Yamagata Prefecture. Here, masons engraved something on the stone steps and mixed and matched stylishly designed stones to make you look forward to discovering them. It makes me happy that Japanese people have had that kind of sense for a long time.

konpira1 first step

konpira2 steps

konpira3 steps

konpira4 step slope

konpira5 looking back

konpira6 daimon gate

konpira7 sculpture on gate

konpira8 over gate

konpira9 horse road with cherry blossom

konpira12 still steps

konpira14 asahisha

konpira15 sculpture of wind cloud under the roof

konpira17 last steps

konpira18 donors

When you climb up to the main shrine, you will be so impressed by the view of the Sanuki Plain from there that you won’t even care about visiting the shrine (it’s a lie). Beautiful cone-shaped small mountains are scattered in the flat plain, and this looks like small Mt.Fuji. I believe that people who visited the shrine in the Edo period must have spread playful rumors that they could have seen “real” Mt.Fuji from Konpira.

konpira21

konpira20

konpira13 special presentation to the public of Jakuchu

The Shoin in the middle of the stone steps was the residence of Shinto priests. This was where the high-ranking people visited, and in the room for visitors, you can always see the fusuma paintings of Maruyama Ohkyo and others. The purpose of this travel is Jakuchu’s fusuma painting, which is extravagant because it is in the private room of the priest. It is said that Jakuchu sent this to celebrate his inauguration as a Shinto priest, partly because the Shinto priest at the time had learned painting from Jakuchu. How cool is that? In addition to Jakuchu, there are wall paintings of countless butterflies by Gantai, and their detailed expressions make me stare at them. I hope it will be published again someday.

https://www.nhk.or.jp/takamatsu/jakuchu/index.html

NHK Kagawa is filming the video, so you may be able to watch it on NHK’s favorite rebroadcast (archive). There are many rebroadcast programs in recent years. Even though I pay the same amount of NHK subscription fees, the number of broadcasting channels seems to be decreasing.

2022-09-082022-09-08

Hachinohe-Sansha Festival (Aomori Prefecture)

Stages with dolls in gorgeous costumes protrude in all directions(10m height, 8m width) from the decorated floats, and ancient stories unfold on it. A long time ago, inspired by the movie “Truck Guy”, trucks decorated with lights transported supplies throughout Japan late at night.　 It seems to have originated in Hachinohe. If you are fun to watch NHK new year’s eve red-and-white singing contest program, the mechanism could remind you of the famous singer, Sachiko Kobayashi. Anyway, you are overwhelmed by its gorgeousness.

hacchi parade1 treasure boat

hacchi parade2 carp on the waterfall

hacchi parade6 1

hacchi parade4

hacchi parade3 Yang Guifei (the Best)

hacchi parade6 2

hacchi parade6 3

hacchi parade6 dojouji

hacchi parade8

hacchi parade7

hacchi parade11 demon extermination

hacchi parade9

hacchi parade10

hacchi parade12

hacchi parade13

hacchi parade14 Taro Urashima and princess

hacchi parade15 1

hacchi parade15 umihiko and yamahiko

hacchi parade16 happy new year

Packed decration float during the day on the road

I passed by the folded float during the day, and was impressed by how compact it was folded.

hacchi preparade2

hacchi preparade3

hacchi preparade4

hacchi preparade5

Cavalry battle similar to polo in Chojasan-Shinra-Shrine

Yabusame can be seen anywhere in Japan, but cavalry battles can only be seen here. A horse divided into red and white throws its own ball into the goal while disturbing the opponent’s ball insertion.　It’s hard to reach the goal even if there are no obstacles.　Prizes are given to the winners by the descendants of the Nanbu clan lords.

hacchi cavalry1

hacchi cavalry2 concentrate his own color ball

hacchi cavalry3 goal

hacchi cavalry4

hacchi cavalry5

hacchi cavalry6

hacchi cavalry8

hacchi cavalry9

hacchi cavalry10

hacchi cavalry11

hacchi cavalry12

hacchi cavalry13

hacchi cavalry14 prize

hacchi cavalry15 tired~ — hacchi cavalry15 tired…..tired…..tired…..

The Best Detour

The northern Tohoku region was a large living area during the Jomon period (the era when people changed from hunting to sedentary life). Gassho, meaning to join hands, clay figurine was excavated in Hachinohe. This is the only clay figurine with the spiritual meaning of gassho.

hacchi clay figurine2 national tresure

hacchi clay figurine3 national teue mark

hacchi clay figurine1

Goats are cleaners around the museum

Dinner of mackerel dishes and market for breakfast

hacchi mackerel dishes1

hacchi mackerel dishes2

hacchi mackerel dishes3

hacchi mackerel dishes4

hacchi hauchi

hacchi stall

hacchi market1 sun rise

hacchi market2 st.Mutsuminato

hacchi market3 300yen breakfast

hacchi market4

hacchi market5 lunch box on express

2020-12-012020-12-01

Torioi-Kannon Temple where asking for immediate death without suffering when you are dying

Torioi-Kannon Temple is one component of Western Pure Land.
Since no one wants to suffer when they die, the ’Korori’ Kannon faith was born. People are fine(‘pin-pin’) just before they die, and when they die, they want to die lightly(‘korori’). In Japanese, this is called pin-pin korori.
You can listen to the fun story of the monk. However, although it is in Japanese.

There are famous sculptures you should not miss in this temple. One of them is a monkey hiding from a eagle. It is said to have been made by Hidari Jingoro, a famous sculptor of the Edo period. However, it seems that there are about 100 works in the whole country, and the authenticity is unknown.

tou no hetsuri shrine — Go back to itinerary

2020-11-262020-11-26

Western Pure Land, namely paradise after death

Western Pure Land, namely paradise after death in the direction where the sun sets, is where the Agano River flows out west from the Aizu Basin.

As I mentioned three types of Buddha statues, the latest type was ‘Amida’ who promises the happiness of the next life in an uneasy era when the plague spread and war began to break out here and there at Heian period end. “The next life begins from next day” was connected to sun set and people has believed in paradise after death in the west.
That is Western Pure Land.

On the other hand, it seems that the people of the Middle Ages had traveled quite far. The Aizu Lord regretted that money would drop in other areas, and set up 33 Kannon tours in his territory by connecting 33 Buddhist temples with the same history as Nara, accomplishment of it would promise happiness for the next life.

There are many places of faith in Western Pure Land in Aizu, but choose below.

Shingu-Kumano Shrine

800 years old Ginkgo and huge worship hall without walls

Kamiunai-Yakushi Temple
(prior reservation)

The same style of Buddha statue as in Shoujiji Temple.

Eryuji Temple

7m height Kannon(Buddha statue) carved in a standing tree with 30 statues including statues with wings like a christian angel statue.

Sake difficult to obtain

Faith and sake have always been linked. Great sake exists in Western Pure Land.
‘Hiroki’ is my favorite sake. Side dish is not needed and I enjoy it alone.

“Even I can’t get it.”, said the worker in that brewery in Aizu Bange downtown. I failed to get fantastic sake directly.

2020-11-192020-11-19

Tou no hetsuri(cliff of towers) is a temple created by nature

The cliff of towers’ shape was created by nature, 1 million years of erosion and weathering. People had been worshiping the tower like a Buddha.
The river flows gracefully and you can cross the suspension bridge and walk under the cliff of towers.

Bottled snake(mamushi or viper) with liquor is on sale as a souvenir at the entrance shop. Who buy it? Instead, be careful of walking the cliff of towers?

Gallery (click photos)

tou no hetsuri left

tou no hetsuri center

tou no hetsuri right

Detour

A cat stationmaster ‘Love’ welcome you at Ashinomaki Hot Spring station. He will appear if he is in a good mood, but I don’t think he is fulfilling his duties as a stationmaster. Although he is the stationmaster, he is merely living at the station. In the countryside, we often see small animals as honorary stationmasters.

ashinomaki hot spring

cat stationmaster

2020-11-182020-11-17

Sazaedo like a turban shell is a pilgrimage place of religion

Sazaedo is located at the foot* of Mt.Iimori, where 19 young samurais committed suicide by seeing a burning their lord’s castle in 1868 when Aizu Domain was artificially hit by the new government after the Edo Shogunate to show it.

*)There was a guide to recommend using a paid escalator not to get tired when going to the sacred place from now on. What about that?
The Aizu-Wakamatsu city at twilight that spreads to the west was very impressive.

twilight aizu wakamatsu city — twilight aizu wakamatsu chity

Sazaedo means not only the name ‘Turban shell Temple’ in English but also the shape of inside structure. When you enter from the front, the slope climbs in a spiral to the right. However, when you cross the bridge at the top, it turns into a descending counterclockwise slope, and at the end you will be behind the building. This structure not only did not cause traffic congestion inside, but it was also a place where people could visit many Buddha efficiently by placing 33 Kannon(Buddha statues) on the slope at that time. Was it profitable in faith?

Distant view of Inawashiro Lake like Death Sea in Israel and Jordan and Mt.Bandai illuminated by the setting sun

inawashiro lake

2020-08-202020-09-08

Buddha’s wisdom bag, Monjyu Bodhisattva, is a children’s playground in Takahata Town

Kameoka Monjyu-dou is one of Japan’s three major Monjyu Bodhisattva with wisdom.

Two heads are better than one.

There are similar expressions in each country, but in Japan, the three heads are said to be comparable to the Monjyu Bodhisattva. Is Monjyu Bodhisattva respected with three heads or is it lightly seen?

Abe Monjyu-in in Nara prefecture is the most famous and worth seeing as National treasure, but Kameoka’s is simple and friendly in the countryside. The sculptures of the monks studying along the approach of the tree lined with cedars welcomed us.

Kameoka sculpture2

Kameoka Monjyu in

Kameoka sub hall

Kameoka sculpture

I was surprised that there is a hierarchy in the world of Buddha. An enlightened person is called Nyorai as highest rank, and is usually accompanied by several Bodhisattva. Furthermore, there are many layers under the Bodhisattva. The world of Buddha is also tough.

By the way, Bonjyu Bodhisattva is a Buddha of wisdom who is an attendant of Shaka Nyorai. That’s why many examinees are visiting and the examination season is at the time of earning money at Kameoka Bonjyu-dou. Although I wasn’t in the examination season when I visited there, many children were worshiping in the hall with parents and I was impressed that it was a temple that blended into the area. On the other hand, the attention not to doodle on the Monjyu-dou was indicated, but “Your graffiti halves your wisdom”, or something that it should be written down on its attention with a little more wisdom ! When you go to the back of the hall, you will find water that gives you wisdom when you drink it. Drinking too much water halves your wisdom !

Akutsu Hachimangu1

In Takahata Town, there is another old shrine that should not be overlooked. From Akutsu Hachiman, I think it is a historical shrine of Genji.
There was a magnificent thatched main shrine at the back, but for some reason there was a triple-storied pagoda of Buddhist architecture at the shrine.

Akutsu Hachimangu3

Akutsu Hachimangu4

Akutsu Hachimangu2 Sanjyunoto

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Detour

Today’s INN

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Packed decration float during the day on the road

Cavalry battle similar to polo in Chojasan-Shinra-Shrine

The Best Detour

Dinner of mackerel dishes and market for breakfast

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Sake difficult to obtain

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Gallery (click photos)

Detour

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Distant view of Inawashiro Lake like Death Sea in Israel and Jordan and Mt.Bandai illuminated by the setting sun

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