religion | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

2023-08-112023-08-10

Climb the 785 stone steps and see Mt. Fuji from Konpira

Konpira-san has a strong character of the god of sea routes, but in the feudal era when people were prohibited from moving from distant regions, they were allowed to visit Konpira. It is said that Konpira pilgrimage became very popular in the Edo period because no one could reach the main shrine unless they climbed 785 steps on their own, and because rumors were exaggerated after the people who visited the shrine returned home.

konpira10 a dog worships on behalf of its master

It is said that those who could not go by themselves wrapped money, goods, and addresses around their dogs, and entrusted those who went to the shrine to visit with their dogs. If the entrusted person gave up on the way, it is said that he entrusted the dog to another person who was visiting. This is a surprising system because it is close to the idea of modern Internet protocols.

Before starting the climb, first fill yourself up with “Sanuki Udon”. Shrines are often decorated with wooden sacred horses, but here there are two real horses that are not ornaments. In addition, perhaps to pray for safe navigation, even a large screw is decorated.

sanuki udon dinning

sanuki udon cool

sanuki udon side menu chicken

konpira11 real divine horse 72 years old in human terms

konpira11 real horse exercise

konpira11 screw

If you count the stone steps up to the main shrine, there are 786 steps. However, when the number is read in Japanese, it becomes “worry”(Na-Ya-Mu in Japanese), and it is bad luck even though you came to the shrine. Therefore, inserting a stone stair that goes down one step to make a total of 785 steps is a very Japanese solution. It’s a people who likes puns. I don’t know where to go down one step when I’m dazed, but if I know in advance that I’m going to go down one step somewhere on the long stone steps, I feel nervous and have a little fun.

stone step upto tea house — Click above to refer to stone steps to Mt.Haguro Shrine

A similar story can be found at the 2446 stone steps on Mt. Haguro Shrine in Yamagata Prefecture. Here, masons engraved something on the stone steps and mixed and matched stylishly designed stones to make you look forward to discovering them. It makes me happy that Japanese people have had that kind of sense for a long time.

konpira1 first step

konpira2 steps

konpira3 steps

konpira4 step slope

konpira5 looking back

konpira6 daimon gate

konpira7 sculpture on gate

konpira8 over gate

konpira9 horse road with cherry blossom

konpira12 still steps

konpira14 asahisha

konpira15 sculpture of wind cloud under the roof

konpira17 last steps

konpira18 donors

When you climb up to the main shrine, you will be so impressed by the view of the Sanuki Plain from there that you won’t even care about visiting the shrine (it’s a lie). Beautiful cone-shaped small mountains are scattered in the flat plain, and this looks like small Mt.Fuji. I believe that people who visited the shrine in the Edo period must have spread playful rumors that they could have seen “real” Mt.Fuji from Konpira.

konpira21

konpira20

konpira13 special presentation to the public of Jakuchu

The Shoin in the middle of the stone steps was the residence of Shinto priests. This was where the high-ranking people visited, and in the room for visitors, you can always see the fusuma paintings of Maruyama Ohkyo and others. The purpose of this travel is Jakuchu’s fusuma painting, which is extravagant because it is in the private room of the priest. It is said that Jakuchu sent this to celebrate his inauguration as a Shinto priest, partly because the Shinto priest at the time had learned painting from Jakuchu. How cool is that? In addition to Jakuchu, there are wall paintings of countless butterflies by Gantai, and their detailed expressions make me stare at them. I hope it will be published again someday.

https://www.nhk.or.jp/takamatsu/jakuchu/index.html

NHK Kagawa is filming the video, so you may be able to watch it on NHK’s favorite rebroadcast (archive). There are many rebroadcast programs in recent years. Even though I pay the same amount of NHK subscription fees, the number of broadcasting channels seems to be decreasing.

2022-09-082022-09-08

Hachinohe-Sansha Festival (Aomori Prefecture)

Stages with dolls in gorgeous costumes protrude in all directions(10m height, 8m width) from the decorated floats, and ancient stories unfold on it. A long time ago, inspired by the movie “Truck Guy”, trucks decorated with lights transported supplies throughout Japan late at night.　 It seems to have originated in Hachinohe. If you are fun to watch NHK new year’s eve red-and-white singing contest program, the mechanism could remind you of the famous singer, Sachiko Kobayashi. Anyway, you are overwhelmed by its gorgeousness.

hacchi parade1 treasure boat

hacchi parade2 carp on the waterfall

hacchi parade6 1

hacchi parade4

hacchi parade3 Yang Guifei (the Best)

hacchi parade6 2

hacchi parade6 3

hacchi parade6 dojouji

hacchi parade8

hacchi parade7

hacchi parade11 demon extermination

hacchi parade9

hacchi parade10

hacchi parade12

hacchi parade13

hacchi parade14 Taro Urashima and princess

hacchi parade15 1

hacchi parade15 umihiko and yamahiko

hacchi parade16 happy new year

Packed decration float during the day on the road

I passed by the folded float during the day, and was impressed by how compact it was folded.

hacchi preparade2

hacchi preparade3

hacchi preparade4

hacchi preparade5

Cavalry battle similar to polo in Chojasan-Shinra-Shrine

Yabusame can be seen anywhere in Japan, but cavalry battles can only be seen here. A horse divided into red and white throws its own ball into the goal while disturbing the opponent’s ball insertion.　It’s hard to reach the goal even if there are no obstacles.　Prizes are given to the winners by the descendants of the Nanbu clan lords.

hacchi cavalry1

hacchi cavalry2 concentrate his own color ball

hacchi cavalry3 goal

hacchi cavalry4

hacchi cavalry5

hacchi cavalry6

hacchi cavalry8

hacchi cavalry9

hacchi cavalry10

hacchi cavalry11

hacchi cavalry12

hacchi cavalry13

hacchi cavalry14 prize

hacchi cavalry15 tired~ — hacchi cavalry15 tired…..tired…..tired…..

The Best Detour

The northern Tohoku region was a large living area during the Jomon period (the era when people changed from hunting to sedentary life). Gassho, meaning to join hands, clay figurine was excavated in Hachinohe. This is the only clay figurine with the spiritual meaning of gassho.

hacchi clay figurine2 national tresure

hacchi clay figurine3 national teue mark

hacchi clay figurine1

Goats are cleaners around the museum

Dinner of mackerel dishes and market for breakfast

hacchi mackerel dishes1

hacchi mackerel dishes2

hacchi mackerel dishes3

hacchi mackerel dishes4

hacchi hauchi

hacchi stall

hacchi market1 sun rise

hacchi market2 st.Mutsuminato

hacchi market3 300yen breakfast

hacchi market4

hacchi market5 lunch box on express

2020-12-012020-12-01

Torioi-Kannon Temple where asking for immediate death without suffering when you are dying

Torioi-Kannon Temple is one component of Western Pure Land.
Since no one wants to suffer when they die, the ’Korori’ Kannon faith was born. People are fine(‘pin-pin’) just before they die, and when they die, they want to die lightly(‘korori’). In Japanese, this is called pin-pin korori.
You can listen to the fun story of the monk. However, although it is in Japanese.

There are famous sculptures you should not miss in this temple. One of them is a monkey hiding from a eagle. It is said to have been made by Hidari Jingoro, a famous sculptor of the Edo period. However, it seems that there are about 100 works in the whole country, and the authenticity is unknown.

tou no hetsuri shrine — Go back to itinerary

2020-11-262020-11-26

Western Pure Land, namely paradise after death

Western Pure Land, namely paradise after death in the direction where the sun sets, is where the Agano River flows out west from the Aizu Basin.

As I mentioned three types of Buddha statues, the latest type was ‘Amida’ who promises the happiness of the next life in an uneasy era when the plague spread and war began to break out here and there at Heian period end. “The next life begins from next day” was connected to sun set and people has believed in paradise after death in the west.
That is Western Pure Land.

On the other hand, it seems that the people of the Middle Ages had traveled quite far. The Aizu Lord regretted that money would drop in other areas, and set up 33 Kannon tours in his territory by connecting 33 Buddhist temples with the same history as Nara, accomplishment of it would promise happiness for the next life.

There are many places of faith in Western Pure Land in Aizu, but choose below.

Shingu-Kumano Shrine

800 years old Ginkgo and huge worship hall without walls

Kamiunai-Yakushi Temple
(prior reservation)

The same style of Buddha statue as in Shoujiji Temple.

Eryuji Temple

7m height Kannon(Buddha statue) carved in a standing tree with 30 statues including statues with wings like a christian angel statue.

Sake difficult to obtain

Faith and sake have always been linked. Great sake exists in Western Pure Land.
‘Hiroki’ is my favorite sake. Side dish is not needed and I enjoy it alone.

“Even I can’t get it.”, said the worker in that brewery in Aizu Bange downtown. I failed to get fantastic sake directly.

2020-11-192020-11-19

Tou no hetsuri(cliff of towers) is a temple created by nature

The cliff of towers’ shape was created by nature, 1 million years of erosion and weathering. People had been worshiping the tower like a Buddha.
The river flows gracefully and you can cross the suspension bridge and walk under the cliff of towers.

Bottled snake(mamushi or viper) with liquor is on sale as a souvenir at the entrance shop. Who buy it? Instead, be careful of walking the cliff of towers?

Gallery (click photos)

tou no hetsuri left

tou no hetsuri center

tou no hetsuri right

Detour

A cat stationmaster ‘Love’ welcome you at Ashinomaki Hot Spring station. He will appear if he is in a good mood, but I don’t think he is fulfilling his duties as a stationmaster. Although he is the stationmaster, he is merely living at the station. In the countryside, we often see small animals as honorary stationmasters.

ashinomaki hot spring

cat stationmaster

2020-11-182020-11-17

Sazaedo like a turban shell is a pilgrimage place of religion

Sazaedo is located at the foot* of Mt.Iimori, where 19 young samurais committed suicide by seeing a burning their lord’s castle in 1868 when Aizu Domain was artificially hit by the new government after the Edo Shogunate to show it.

*)There was a guide to recommend using a paid escalator not to get tired when going to the sacred place from now on. What about that?
The Aizu-Wakamatsu city at twilight that spreads to the west was very impressive.

twilight aizu wakamatsu city — twilight aizu wakamatsu chity

Sazaedo means not only the name ‘Turban shell Temple’ in English but also the shape of inside structure. When you enter from the front, the slope climbs in a spiral to the right. However, when you cross the bridge at the top, it turns into a descending counterclockwise slope, and at the end you will be behind the building. This structure not only did not cause traffic congestion inside, but it was also a place where people could visit many Buddha efficiently by placing 33 Kannon(Buddha statues) on the slope at that time. Was it profitable in faith?

Distant view of Inawashiro Lake like Death Sea in Israel and Jordan and Mt.Bandai illuminated by the setting sun

inawashiro lake

2020-08-202020-09-08

Buddha’s wisdom bag, Monjyu Bodhisattva, is a children’s playground in Takahata Town

Kameoka Monjyu-dou is one of Japan’s three major Monjyu Bodhisattva with wisdom.

Two heads are better than one.

There are similar expressions in each country, but in Japan, the three heads are said to be comparable to the Monjyu Bodhisattva. Is Monjyu Bodhisattva respected with three heads or is it lightly seen?

Abe Monjyu-in in Nara prefecture is the most famous and worth seeing as National treasure, but Kameoka’s is simple and friendly in the countryside. The sculptures of the monks studying along the approach of the tree lined with cedars welcomed us.

Kameoka sculpture2

Kameoka Monjyu in

Kameoka sub hall

Kameoka sculpture

I was surprised that there is a hierarchy in the world of Buddha. An enlightened person is called Nyorai as highest rank, and is usually accompanied by several Bodhisattva. Furthermore, there are many layers under the Bodhisattva. The world of Buddha is also tough.

By the way, Bonjyu Bodhisattva is a Buddha of wisdom who is an attendant of Shaka Nyorai. That’s why many examinees are visiting and the examination season is at the time of earning money at Kameoka Bonjyu-dou. Although I wasn’t in the examination season when I visited there, many children were worshiping in the hall with parents and I was impressed that it was a temple that blended into the area. On the other hand, the attention not to doodle on the Monjyu-dou was indicated, but “Your graffiti halves your wisdom”, or something that it should be written down on its attention with a little more wisdom ! When you go to the back of the hall, you will find water that gives you wisdom when you drink it. Drinking too much water halves your wisdom !

Akutsu Hachimangu1

In Takahata Town, there is another old shrine that should not be overlooked. From Akutsu Hachiman, I think it is a historical shrine of Genji.
There was a magnificent thatched main shrine at the back, but for some reason there was a triple-storied pagoda of Buddhist architecture at the shrine.

Akutsu Hachimangu3

Akutsu Hachimangu4

Akutsu Hachimangu2 Sanjyunoto

Mountain Pass Station0 — Go back to itinerary

2020-08-162020-09-08

Sasano Kannon with thatched roof like a helmet of battle is a symbol of faith

Sasano Kannon is one of the 33 Kannon pilgrimages in Okitama area, but it is especially admirable because the lord of the Yonezawa domain had visited it　repeatedly. The roof is very large compared to the lower structure, and the sculptures under the eaves are rich and detailed.

sculpture of dragon and crane

good foot prayer

Kannon aims to relieve people’s suffering by changing 33 forms and faces, so 33 Kannon pilgrimage routes had been established in various areas, and it is interesting that industries such as local specialty products are flourishing there.

entrance gate of Sasano Kannon

facade of Sasano Kannon

In Sasano Kannon, lord Youzan Uesugi encouraged the hawk carving by only one engraving tool, and its technology has been passed down to the present day near the Kannon.
The hawk’s carvings made from the Enju tree, Japanese Pagoda tree, have a reddish exposed core that forms part of the design (see below left). It is said that Enju is good for longevity and success in life because it is written in Kanji, Japanese character, that the life span extends. Japanese people like these word games !

Hawk sculpture1

Hawk sculpture3

The famous saying* is displayed (see above right) because the store name is ‘Youzan’, which President Kennedy had respected.
>Please read detail another post.

*)”If you try to do, it can be achieved, if you don’t, it will never be achieved. Achieving nothing is due to one’s own intention to not try.”

Hawk sculpture0 shop

Hawk sculpture2 workplace

I found something valuable in this shop. It’s a basket woven from mountain vines and sells for $3,000 to $4,000 per department store in Tokyo. See for yourself how much is here.

Mountain grape basket1

Mountain grape basket2

2020-08-02

Goshogake Nature Park enjoying baby volcanos and sulfur gas?

The surface of the rock is exposed in the area due to the emission of sulfur gas. The valley pond is boiling. Mud erupts from the bottom of the earth with steam, and there are mud pots everywhere in the shape of Baby Volcano. It is a landscape that looks like a miniature of a volcano.

The origin of the name of ‘Goshogake’ is the idea of reincarnation in Buddhism. A young man who fell ill was recovered by a young pilgrimage daughter in this hot spring resort, and they got married. However, due to the news of the wind, his wife, who had left home with children, visited and the young daughter prayed for their happiness and poured herself into the boiling water. The wife, who was struck by the chest, followed her also praying (‘gake’ literally) being reborn (‘sho’ literally) after (‘go’ literally) the death. It is a sad anecdote, but it is a story that conveys the utility and fear of a volcano at the same time.

There is a toilet at the entrance of the walk path, but there are metal cans and sticks in front of it, and it is written that you should strike it in advance to inform the bear. But if the bear inside heard the sound and came out of the toilet, I was wondering what to do. Please do not encounter bears.

Gallery (click photos)

Goshokake nature park

Sulfur gas1

Sulfur gas2

Sulfur gas4

Sulfur gas5

Konya hell

2020-07-12

exhausted 2446 stone steps with about 600 old cedar trees to reach Mt. Haguroyama and a traditional tea house in an exquisite location on the way

Unfortunately, it is downhill to the five-storied pagoda, National treasure. But you can meet the 1000 year old grandfather ceder. In 2019, we had a special visit inside the pagoda. The octagonal core was tied to the surrounding skeleton with a kudzu vine. (>click photos)

haguroyama zuishinmon

old grandfather ceder

five storied pagoda

octagonal pillar inside

special visit inside

buddha on the roadside

Uphill surrounded by old cedars feels sacred air, not just forest bath. But it is hard to climb the 2446 stone steps at once. There is a traditional tea house in an exquisite place. And you can overlook the flat Shonai plain facing the Sea of Japan. If the weather is very nice, you can see Tobishima island over the Shonai plain. (>click photos)

stone steps start

stone step on the way

stone step upto tea house

chikaramochi and tokoroten

shonai plain

view tobishima island over plain

We finally reached the summit of Mt. Haguroyama. It took 50 minutes without a break from the foot. It is difficult to go to the other two mountains, so it is also secular that the three gods are enshrined together here.
It seems that the belfry was built as a thank-you for praying for the invasion of Mongolia during the Kamakura period. (>click photos)