Hokoji, the family temple of the Yasuda clan, the true driving force behind the Genpei War

houkoji (1) gate
houkoji (2) left UN state
houkoji (2) left UN state

Before the Takeda family ruled Kai, the Yasuda family, which was descended from the Genji clan, ruled Kai.    He fought as the main force of the Genji clan in the Genpei War at the end of Heian period, and built Hokoji Temple to celebrate the victory at Ichinotani, where Minamoto no Yoshitsune was said to be the most active person to victory against Heike clan.    The Yasuda clan had ambitions to open a Buddhist city in Kai, following the example of Hiraizumi in Oshu(Tohoku region), and for this reason, there is still a wealth of cultural assets such as Buddhist statues.

houkoji (3)right A statue
houkoji (3)right A statue

The Bishamonten statue, which depicts the face of Yoshisada Yasuda at his peak, has a war helmet(Kabuto) on his head.    The statue of Aizen Myoo holding a bow is said to be the oldest in Japan.    The similar one at Jindoji Temple in Kyoto has some rough edges, but this one has a neat form.    Later, the Yasuda family was suspected of rebellion by Minamoto no Yoritomo, who was highly suspicious, and the Yasuda family was destroyed.    The Kamakura period was a history of slaughter between allies.

 

houkoji (4)
Hojo at houkoji temple

Detour

Delicious lunch using sake lees provided by a sake brewery “Kai”

sake brewery kai (4)
lunch menu at sake brewery “kai”

The word “kai” in the name of the sake brewery has the same pronunciation as the name of the region, but it also refers to the important tool used to mix ingredients in sake brewing.    The restaurant is full of women who are looking for delicious food, probably anywhere in the world.

There is Kubo-Hachiman Shrine nearby, and the torii gate here is made of wood and is the oldest in Japan.    However, it was surprising to see a normal road passing under it, and a large number of cars passing through it.    It was solicited from Usa Jingu Shrine in Oita Prefecture, and since it is Hachiman Shrine, it is the god of military fortune and is also the guardian deity of the Takeda family.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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First texture, fermented food

shiso city (3)fermented dishes

I don’t think there are many Japanese people who can read this (宍粟) about Shiso City.    There are many difficult-to-read place names in Osaka, but it is called Yokozuna of the West (the strongest sumo wrestler in the west side), based on the sumo ranking.    So, the Yokozuna of the east is Sosa City.    This (匝瑳) is also a completely unfamiliar character.

Now, the name Shiso comes from the fact that it is rich in ingredients. Although it is famous for its fermented foods, it also promotes itself as the birthplace of Japanese sake.    Akasai Valley, which is located in the same city, is promoted as the Oirase Valley in the west, but I don’t think there are many Kansai people who have ever been to Oirase Valley, so Kansai people have no objections to this point, probably.    However, there are probably quite a few Kansai people who disagree with the idea that it is the birthplace of Japanese sake.   It seems like there are a lot of people in this area who exaggerate things.

Well, in this town, such a famous sake brewery is serving lunch in a building from the Edo period, so I stopped by.    In particular, the soup made from sake lees had a strange flavor that I can’t describe in basic tastes such as sweet, spicy, or salty, and even now when I think back on it, it was delicious.    The Ibo River basin, which flows out of the Akasai Valley and runs from Shiso to Tatsuno City, is a treasure trove of miso, soy sauce, sake, and fermented foods.   In addition, since it’s the Ibo River, one thing you shouldn’t forget is the somen noodles.

By the way, I tried to take a walk around Shiso City, but a linear rain band had just appeared and it was pouring down so I couldn’t walk around the city at all.   I stopped by just for lunch, but it was worth it.

sun flower field
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Where there is famous water, there is famous sake

shichiken1

A sake brewery in Daigahara, a post town on the old Koshu Highroad, produced a famous sake called Shichiken.    The brewed water in the backyard that you can drink freely is soft and delicious.    There is also sake that is similar to champagne.   Would you like to eat koji(malt) dishes at the attached restaurant, or have cold soba noodles at the soba restaurant across the street?    In either case, good water is the deciding factor.

Whiskey brewing and tasting

Japanese Sake is not the only type of brewing that uses delicious water.    The Suntory Hakushu factory is located towards Kobuchizawa from the post town.  You can tour here, but the most fun part is the tasting.   Advance reservations are required to tour, but be sure to take advantage of the hourly free shuttle bus from Kobuchizawa Station.    Drivers are only boring.    In case of the Suntory Yamazaki factory in Osaka, it is near the station, so you can easily go for a tasting.   The founders of both Suntory and Nikka Whiskey were closely related.

(reference) Yamazaki Suntory Factory

 

jissoji2
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The small town Obuse thrives on chestnuts

obuse scenery (1)

When we arrived at the center of Obuse town, a large group of young tourists got off the large bus.   It seemed like they were on a graduation trip, but it’s rare to see so many young people coming together in groups at tourist destinations in Japan.    Japan’s tourist spots are now filled with energetic old people or foreigners who have benefited from the weak yen.    This site, however, is disseminating information to non-Japanese people.

The first thing I noticed in Obuse was that each house and plot of land was large, and it was far more spacious than in Tokyo.    Also, since there is no shopping street itself, there are no shuttered streets that are often seen, and there are no abandoned houses.    Perhaps because of this, it has the feel of a rich country town.    This area is also an alluvial fan, and fruit trees such as grapes and chestnut trees are cultivated on the farm.

This town does not give the impression of being depopulated or deserted at all.    Although it only has a population of 10,000 people, it is famous as a chestnut production area that has continued since the Edo period.    During the chestnut harvest season, long lines form in the morning for the seasonal fresh chestnut sweets, but you can enjoy chestnut sweets all year round along with delicious Italian cuisine at Evolve, which is a sister store to the famous store.

There are sweets shops all over the place, and you can enjoy all kinds of chestnut sweets.    I wonder if the young group who got off the large bus came looking for these or rare sake from this region, but I couldn’t trace them after that.

evolve lunch (8)chestnut sweet
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