Kamakura isn’t the only place to find hydrangeas in temples: Amabiki Kannon Temple

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Both sides of the stone steps leading up to the Sanmon gate are decorated with hydrangeas, just like at Meigetsuin Temple in Kamakura.   Once you reach the top, you’ll see a pond on the grounds of the main hall filled with floating cut hydrangeas, a very calculating or cunning display.    Everyone will be uploading videos of this to social media.    The ducks in the pond look very cramped.

Even when the hydrangeas are not in full bloom, many peacocks are free to roam.     In Buddhism, they are said to have the power to ward off evil spirits and purify.    I’m sure the pattern on its spread wings looks like eyes, which may intimidate monsters.    According to a local photography enthusiast I bumped into, when surrounded by people, they spread their wings, either to get excited or to intimidate.

He showed me the footage stored on his smartphone, which was full of footage of peacocks spreading their feathers.    Apparently, each peacock has its own unique style; some will raise their long wings vertically with great force, while others will spread them parallel to the ground and then slowly raise them.   Naturally, the former is more impressive, but it’s hard to find one.

Find “the otaku” or the enthusiast and ask him to show you the video.    The peacock’s feathers are reminiscent of the costume worn by Sachiko Kobayashi in the NHK Red and White Song Battle on New Year’s Eve, or the flashy floats at the Hachinohe Sansha Festival.

Finally, if you go up to the temple grounds at the top of the mountain, you can see the flat Kanto Plain in its entirety, which also reminds me of the flat Shonai Plain I saw at Dewa Sanzan.

Today’s Inn

It’s a very rural hot spring inn.   For a moment I thought I had arrived at a mountain hut.    The rice, miso soup and grilled sweetfish were especially delicious.

 

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Giant stone lanterns and decaying Edo period townscape

makabe town (9)shiota house

It seems that the city of Sakuragawa, literally translated as cherry blossoms along river, was formed through a merger of towns and villages, and while there are certainly spots comparable to the wild cherry blossoms of Yoshino in Nara, one of merged town of Makabe, which retains the same town layout as it did in the early Edo period like as Tatsuno town, is more famous.    I headed for the old townscape, and was surprised to see huge stone lanterns installed at the entrances of private homes here and there.

They were so huge that you would never see them at an inn or temple or shrine, and it seemed like each home was competing to have their own.    It seems like people in Tokushima Prefecture are showing off their wealth by building magnificent udatsu at the boundary between houses, but with the recent increase in robberies, the giant stone lantern is intended to appeal to robbers, as if it is asking them to break into its premises.    As we drove, we saw stoneworks everywhere, and the rows of stone lanterns waiting to be shipped were a spectacular sight.     As I couldn’t buy a stone lantern as a souvenir, I bought a stone chopstick rest instead.

makabe town (8)tsukamoto tea storehouse
makabe town (8)tsukamoto tea storehouse

As you enter the town of Makabe, you will come across an old townscape that has been designated an Important Building Heritage District.    While some buildings are well preserved, others are in a state of disrepair, and some look as though they will soon collapse if left as they are.    I wonder if it could be used as a way to revitalize the town and somehow improve it.     There are no shops that you can just drop into while walking around town.     I’m sure there are similar places all over the country, but seeing the buildings decaying in the hot sun made me feel more lonely than touristy.

 

Detour for lunch

There is a lovely little cafe, “Cafe125,” between Makabe town and Amabiki Kannon Temple. The whole house is decorated with handmade dolls and dried flowers.

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