sanga | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

The Yamanami Highway is a road that connects Yufuin to Aso, passing through the Kuju mountain range. The scenery overlooking the mountain range changes rapidly, and the road has moderate curves, so you can enjoy an exhilarating drive while listening to music. Along the way, stop at the observation deck where you can get a full view of Mt. Yufu-dake. Mt. Yufu-dake is also known as Bungo Fuji, and its summit is made up of two well-balanced peaks. Although it is different from the shape of Mount Fuji that is generally associated with it, the Mount Fuji as it is called in various regions is probably a mountain that constitutes a representative mental landscape of each region.

yamanami highway1

yamanami highway2 yufudake

yamanami highway3 mitumata mountain

yamanami highway4 evening sun on kuju mountain

Just because you’re not driving doesn’t mean you should fall asleep. This is a route where you should enjoy the beauty of mountain waves. It’s especially amazing to pass through the Kuju mountain range to the south and see the Aso mountain range in the sunset from the pass.

yamanami highway5 aso view left

yamanami highway6 aso view right

We descend the mountain and head towards my usual lodging, Kurokawa Onsen Sanga, as the silver grass sways and sparkles towards the sunset. I came here again looking forward to the food. I apologize for the photos being all about food. But every dish and its tableware is a work of art.

Kurokawa Hotspring “Sanga”

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kurokawasanga dinner1

kurokawasanga dinner2

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climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain — Go back to itinerary

When traveling to enjoy the scenery, the weather is crucial. The scenery shines with the reflection of light, and the wind with just the right amount of humidity makes you feel refreshed. The sun is great! But this time, it’s the complete opposite. The rain was pouring down so hard that I couldn’t even step out of the car in Kusasenri, so I turned on the heater inside the car max to stay warm.

Still, the eruption alert level for Mt. Aso is at its lowest level, so this is a great opportunity to get up close. As we braved the wind and rain, a shelter covered with thick concrete suddenly appeared in front of us. I am reminded of the recent incident on Mt. Ontake in Kiso where climbers were caught in volcanic bombs. Then, for a moment, an emerald blue volcanic lake could be seen through the gap between the clouds and volcanic smoke. The weather was terrible, but it was an unforgettable sight, even though it was only for a short time.

aso crater2

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aso crater3

After lunch at an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town, I went to Daikanbo, which has an observation deck for Aso mountain range, without high expectations. Although the clouds were not clear, I could see the Aso mountain range, which has been compared to the reclining statue of Buddha, and the somma with deep valleys surrounding it. It’s not all that the weather is bad. It seemed like a ray of light was shining.

aso statute of nirvana left

aso statute of nirvana right

aso somma2 water vapor

aso somma4 burnt remains

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Detour (an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town)

wind forest 2 café

wind forest 1

wind forest 3

wind forest 4 lunch plate

wind forest 5

wind forest 6 dessert

wind forest 7 terrace

Overnight at Kurokawa Onsen ”Sanga”

The garden is well-maintained while retaining the atmosphere of deep in the mountain, but I was surprised to learn that it was all planted by hand. I fell in love with the richness of the ingredients and the delicious taste, and now I stay here regularly. It seems that all the accommodations in Kurokawa Onsen are wonderful, but I hope that the regular accommodations do not suffer from the negative effects of overtourism.