Weeping cherry blossoms are more wabi-sabi than Kyoto

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (2)

Heading west from Kagemori Station on the Chichibu Railway, you’ll find a series of temples along the line, each boasting magnificent weeping cherry trees.     It’s a bit of a distance, but it’s a leisurely stroll along the country road, admiring the cherry blossoms planted here and there along the way.    Incidentally, the Arakawa River, which flows through downtown Tokyo, runs along the railway line.     Here, it carves a deep gorge.

Shofukuji Temple

First, I started walking from Bushu-Hino Station.     Although there were no signs, I climbed up beside a farmhouse and suddenly Shofuku-ji Temple appeared.     The sight of the cherry blossoms adorning the temple gate, which you can see when you look up the stairs, is truly breathtaking.    This spot is on a slight hill, so you can see the Chichibu Basin beyond the curtain of weeping cherry blossoms in front of you, with cherry blossoms visible everywhere.      You can also see the Chichibu Railway, and you’ll probably even see the steam locomotives moving along, spewing black smoke.

Seiunj Temple and Wakajishi Shrine

Next, we head towards the weeping cherry tree forest at Seiunji Temple, which is often seen on posters.     Along the way, we pass a shrine with a sumo wrestling ring.    The weeping cherry trees at Seiunji Temple are simply breathtaking.     If you climb the stairs of the adjacent Wakajishi Shrine and look down from above, you can enjoy an even more spectacular view of the weeping cherry forest.    Incidentally, the protective statue at the entrance of this shrine is a wolf, not a guardian lion.     Apparently, they light up the shrine at night during the cherry blossom festival, and the fact that there are stalls selling farming tools gives it a very rural festival feel.

        source: Chichibumovies

Chosenji Temple

Finally, we visit Chōsenji Temple, famous for the revival of a giant weeping cherry tree that had once declined in vitality.     Weeping cherry trees bloom earlier than Somei Yoshino cherry trees, so the giant white weeping cherry tree here has already shed its blossoms, but the temple grounds are beautifully maintained.    Furthermore, this temple is worth visiting this year because it is unveiling its hidden Buddha statue for the Year of the Horse.      However, since the unveiling is taking place in the back of the temple hall, which is quite dark, it is very difficult to see the face of the Kannon statue, making it almost as if it were not unveiled at all.

From here, I headed towards Urayamaguchi Station, surrounded by cherry blossoms, and returned to my accommodation.

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (2)
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The rock garden of Seiun-ji Temple, the place where the Takeda clan was revived

seiunji (4)

Suspected of rebellion by the Kamakura Shogunate, the ancestor of the Takeda family committed suicide on Mt. Tenmoku where Seiun-ji Temple is located, and the family was once extinct, but the Muromachi shogunate revived the Takeda family, and after that for the Takeda family, Mt. Tenmoku was recongnized as the place of rebirth, and Seiun-ji Temple became the family temple.    Later, after the death of Takeda Shingen, who ruled the province of Kai, his son Katsuyori Takeda was defeated by Oda Nobunaga’s army and headed for Seiun-ji Temple in hopes of being reborn, but committed suicide on the way.   Indeed, history repeats itself.

seiunji soba service (4)
Autumn leaves in front of seiunji

The founder of Seiun-ji Temple trained on Mt. Tenmoku in China, and opened his temple here as a meditation training hall.    It is called a rock garden, but the huge rocks that fell down are left in their original forms, and people can meditate on them and become one with nature, gaining an understanding of the truth.

seiunji rock garden (1)
seiunji rock garden
seiunji rock garden (14) Mt.Fiji
seiunji rock garden (14) Mt.Fiji

The head of Mt.Fuji can be seen from the temple garden, but if you climb further up the rock garden, you can see Mt. Fuji poking its head out from the gap in the mountains.    Even if you meditate on a stone, you can’t help but worry about the state of Mt. Fuji.

seiunji rock garden (13)
Mt.Fuji  from seiunji rock garden

In addition, up until then, soba was called “sobagaki” and was eaten in the form of manju, but thiswas also the birthplace of soba, which adopted Chinese culture and began eating it in the form of noodle.    I learned this for the first time when I came here. [Link Yamagata]

The time I visited was during the annual Treasure Window Exhibition held in early November.   One of the treasures was a original military flag of the Takeda army written as “Fu-Rin-Ka-Zan.” (>>For meaning, read this post)

In the event, I was also treated to matcha tea with a sweet named as a moon hidden by cloud and autumn soba noodles. 

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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Ryumonkyo Gorge and autumn leaves to enjoy the outdoors

ryumon (12)

Shosenkyo is famous as a beautiful valley that anyone can easily walk and enjoy, but Ryumonkyo is also a valley where you can enjoy outdoor activities such as going down to the bottom of the gorge or climbing up a ladder.   The ground underfoot is soft and fluffy with fallen leaves, and there are wooden paths that make it easy to walk.    However, the valley is deep, there are waterfalls everywhere, and there are wooden bridges that have been washed away by rapids.

Along the way, there is a place where you can hear a drum-like sound when you step on it.    Apparently, this is because there are many gaps in the roots of the trees in the soil.    In addition to this, the 1 hour and 15 minute promenade is full of changes, such as a narrow gate made of huge stones piled up, and a zelkova tree that stretches out by splitting the stone in half.

Ryumonkyo walking map
Ryumonkyo walking map @source: Koshu city HP

Unlike the Ojira River Valley map, the map does not lie about the time required.    Finally, after seeing Kumo no Abyss, which is full of water, we climb steeply and arrive at our next destination, the entrance to Tenmokuzan Seiunji Temple with the view of the head of Mt.Fuji.

ryumon (22)
Kumo no Abyss at Ryumon Gorge
seiunji (1)
Head of Mt. Fuji arriving at seiunji temple

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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