A rare shrine that loves moving

kirishima shrine4

Kirishima Shrine was originally enshrined just below the top of Mount Takachiho, but it was burned down in an eruption and moved to the middle of the mountain.    It was then burned down again in another eruption, and after learning its lesson, it was moved to its current location, much further down the mountain.

You can drive up to Takachiho Kawara (Kawara is “Riverbank” in English but actually the meaning is a landscape with stones scattered all over the place, like those found on a riverbank. ), the shrine’s second moving location.     There’s a short walk through shrubs covered with volcanic debris, but the altar stands alone in the desolate plain, completely silent, and is more charming than the current divine temple.    The only regret is that parking fees are charged even though it’s a desolate, empty place.     Since there aren’t many tourists or tour buses, it would be better if it was free.

former shrine2
former shrine2

The Kirishima mountain range continues to erupt, with Mt. Shinmoedake erupting recently and covering half of the mountain with black volcanic debris.  Right next to the Ebino Highland Rest House where we took a break on the way, Mt. Iou was constantly spewing smoke, giving the impression of an active volcano.

For this reason, it is claimed that this is the right place where the heavenly grandson descended to earth.    But on the other hand, it is claimed that a valley called Takachiho Gorge is the right place.     So it would be great if the two sides could debate it thoroughly and come to a conclusion.    Either way, it’s a world of mythology, so either way, it’s not the correct answer.

The current Kirishima Shrine is built on a slope, so when viewed from the front it looks like a beautifully tiered platform decorated on Girls’ festival.    Part of the shrine is a national treasure, and even though it cannot be seen from the outside, amulets commemorating the national treasure are sold there.  Occasionally it seems that you can visit the inner sanctuary during special viewing days.    But the admission fee is twice the price of the amulet.

Detour

Aso” is unmistakably a caldera because of its perfect shape, and when you look around various regions in Kyushu, you can find traces of caldera everywhere because they are all surrounded by outer rim mountains.    One of them is the “Kakuto Caldera,” and when you climb up the Kirishima mountain range, you pass an observation deck (Shiratori) from which you can see how huge it is,  which is comparable to Aso Caldera.     

Previously, it was thought that whole of Kagoshima Bay was a caldera, and that Sakurajima was a volcano that formed in the center of the caldera, just like Aso.     However, it seems that the entire Kagoshima Bay is not a single caldera, but that the Aira Caldera formed in the northern half of the bay, farther north than Sakurajima, and then Sakurajima formed on the edge of the caldera’s outer rim.     It’s interesting to search for calderas in Kyushu.

former shrine2
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Takachiho Gorge, the abode of the gods

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takachiho canyon4 change directions of columnar joints
takachiho  gorge changing directions of columnar joints

The last major eruption of Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago was so large that volcanic ash fell over the entire Japanese archipelago.    That is why Aso still remains a beautiful caldera topography on that scale.     Pyroclastic flows covered the ground near Mt. Aso, and columnar joints created by the contraction of rocks due to the heat can be seen everywhere.    Takachiho Gorge, which is surprisingly close to Aso, has columnar joints that spread throughout the valley, and it is thought that it has been connected to mythology because it is a structure that does not seem to belong to this world.

When Japan was about to enter high economic growth, Takachiho Gorge, like the Nichinan Coast of Miyazaki Prefecture, was famous as a honeymoon destination.    Here I would like to talk about the place named Takachiho, which has been a question for some time.    Takachiho, as the Japanese character suggests, refers to rice cultivation in the highlands, but according to Japan’s oldest history book, the Kojiki, it also means the place where the gods descended to earth.    This is the so-called “the descent to earth of the grandson of the sun goddess.”    However, it seems that the question of whether the god descended first, Takachiho Gorge near Aso or Takachiho-mine (peak of mountain) in the Kirishima volcanic belt, is still unresolved.     It’s originally a myth, so I guess it’s not one or the other.    It’s just like Yamataikoku is undecided whether it’s Kinki or Kyushu (but the existance of this old imperial court  is a historical fact).    In any case, the magnificent scenery of nature will make you feel the presence of God.     It may be the work of an old travel agency to attract tourists to Miyazaki Prefecture, which has inconvenient transportation (sorry).

However, as a real tourist destination, the sounds of rowing boats sailing through Takachiho Gorge and their collisions echoing within the canyon, which may be the voice of God grumbling.    I wonder why young couples jump on rowboats right away.     I am tempted to say that they should be satisfied with sailing at Chidorigafuchi or Shakujii Park in Tokyo.

Ama no Iwato Shrine: Riverbed of Ama no Yasukawara

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ama no iwato shrine entrance

A famous myth that the older sister’s god (God of the Sun), angry at her younger brother’s violent behavior, closed the rock door and shut herself in a cave, causing the world to become pitch black, and the gods gathered together to deliberate in order to open the rock door.    However, there is Ama no Iwato Shrine at the location of this rock door (you must apply for a prayer to see the rock door in front of you.), and Ama no Yasukawara Cave (this is free.) is located at the place where the council held the meeting.    It’s natural that the authenticity is questionable, but first of all, even in the world of gods, the younger brother should apologize to the older sister, and the gods are the ones who cannot resolve such matters without deliberating.    Furthermore, Takachiho is supposed to be the place where this sister’s grandchild landed on earth for the first time among the gods, but isn’t it strange that the rock door exists in this world?

When I was thinking about this, I couldn’t concentrate on sightseeing at all, and all I remember was the appearance of human faces on the surface of the trees on the left and right as I headed towards Ama no Iwato Shrine.

aso statute of nirvana left
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