Is the priest of Daizenji Temple (National Treasure) a winemaker?

daizenji (9) view point of kofu basin

Daizenji Temple is also called Grapes Temple.      This is not because the priest is passionate about grape cultivation and wine making.    It is said that during the Nara period, the monk Gyoki enshrined the Yakushi Sanzon holding a bunch of grapes that appeared in his dreams.     In fact, the priest and temple officials grow grapes on the premises and set up tanks to make wine.

daizenji (7) grape field in the temple
daizenji (7) grape field in the temple
wine produced by temple
wine produced by temple

At the rest area with garden view, a glass of homemade (or sould I say “templemade”) wine is sold for 300 yen, and it comes with four delicious Koshu grapes as a snack, so it’s a good deal.   I ended up buying a bottle(1800ml) of wine(Muscat Bailey A) as a souvenir.

Well, there are three elements that make this temple famous.

First, the Yakushi-do Hall and the Zushi that houses the Buddha statues are national treasures.   The roof of Yakushido is made of cypress bark, and its curved shape is harmonious and beautiful.    It was built during the Mongol invasion period of the Kamakura period, making it the oldest wooden structure in the Kanto region.   In Kyoto, Senbon Shakado was built around the same time.   The Nikko(sun) and Gakko(moon) Bodhisattvas and the 12 divine generals enshrined inside are very well-designed and give a sense of newness despite being old, but the story of the woman who explains them is too comical.    I feel like it’s a bit of a mismatch.

daizenji (11) Yakushido
daizenji (11) Yakushido

Next, it is said that this was the temple where Katsuyori Takeda, who was defeated by the Oda army and headed for Mt. Tenmoku, stayed overnight praying for a counterattack.    These records of Takeda’s demise remain in this temple.

Finally, at the end of the Edo period, the shogunate army and the Shinsengumi, who had a final battle with the new government army, established their tentative headquarter on the west side of Daizenji Temple to prevent the temple from being damaged by war.

The captain was Isamu Kondo, and the main gate of Daizenji Temple is depicted on the background of the nishiki-e(color print).    The purpose of this battle was to seize Kofu Castle first and prevent the new government forces from invading Edo, but they were defeated by the new government forces led by Taisuke Itagaki.   This was exactly the same history as when Katsuyori Takeda tried to reach Seiunji Temple for Reborn, but was preempted by the Oda army.

daizenji (1) gate
daizenji (1) gate

 

Detour

Speaking of food in Yamanashi, it’s “Houtou.”

restaurant kaiki (2)
restaurant minaki (2) entrance

It’s hard to tell how it’s different from udon, but the flour is kneaded without adding salt to keep it from becoming chewy, and then it’s cut up and simmered with vegetables without waiting too long.    Therefore, some of the noodles will dissolve into the soup, creating a soup unique to “Houtou.”

restaurant kaiki (7) hoto
restaurant minaki (7) houtou

Enjoy houtou at a house designated as a registered tangible cultural property. The house “Minaki” is an old Japanese zelkova house built in 1896.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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Erinji Temple is Tenryuji Temple in Kai

erinji (6) Kori

Erinji is the family temple of the Takeda clan.    Its Kuri and Hojo architecture are as splendid as Tenryuji Temple in Kyoto.    The garden was also designed in early Muromachi period by the same Muso Soseki, who was a Zen monk as well as a gardener, and his garden is registered as a World Heritage Site.    There are also pine trees planted everywhere, all of which are carefully pruned.

erinji (1) red gate
red gate as entrance
erinji (2)
approach to main hall
erinji (4) Kaizando
Kaizando
erinji (14) Waebler Corridor notfying of intruder
Waebler Corridor notfying of intruder

Nijo-jo Castle in Kyoto is famous for the warbler corridor that makes noise when you walk on it, no matter how careful you are, but this temple also has one.    Even the “stealth walk” of ninjas who were tasked with being assassins or spies would make an extra loud noise on the corridor, so it was said to be an effective countermeasure at the time, everywhere in Japan was in war.    It made a screeching sound that sounded more like a metallic sound than the chirping of a warbler.      Please compare the sound of warbler corridor with the original one.

Original sound of a warbler crossing the valley as below

The sound of a warbler corridor

Beyond the corridor is Fudo Myoo, which was created by copying Shingen’s face while he was still alive.     Even though it’s a copy, it’s Fudo Myoo, so I think all Fudo Myoos look the same.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
letters written on military flag

Speaking of Takeda Shingen, the phrase “Fu-rin-ka-zan (wind-forest-fire-mountain)” is famous, and it is a four-character idiom that is an abbreviation of a phrase written in the ancient Chinese military art book “Sun Tzu.”   This means that an army moves as fast as the wind, stays as calm as a forest, attacks enemy territory as fiercely as fire, and defends as solidly and unmoving as a mountain, and these represent the ideal form of military behavior.    It is known that Takeda Shingen, a military commander during the Sengoku period, wrote it in large letters on his military flag and used it as his flag seal.    It can be said that this choice was unique to Shingen, who was a well-educated man well versed in Chinese poetry and the military tactics of Sun Tzu.

”If you clear your mind, you feel the fire will naturally cool down.”

I thought these were also Shingen’s words, but after the fall of the Takeda clan, this was the last words the priest said to the monks who had holed up at the Sanmon gate of Erinji Temple, which had been set on fire by Nobunaga Oda’s army.    It was only when I came here that I realized that it was a word.

erinji (5)
Wind God and Thunder God

Before going to Kori, let’s look up under the eaves of Kaizando. Here is a wooden carved version of the famous paint “Fujin-Raijin”(Wind God and Thunder God) at Ken-ninji Temple in Kyoto.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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Another Zenkoji Temple

zenkoji (4)

A huge wooden building that stands out by far even from a distance.    You can see the form that is exactly like the original Zenkoji Temple in Nagano.     The layout of the buildings on the site is also the same as the original.    It turns out that Shingen had transferred a lookalike to avoid the ravages of war with Uesugi Kenshin, his rival.

(left) another Zenkoji                                                          (righ) original Zenkoji

However, the entire main hall is colored in red to match the red uniform of the Takeda corps, which is very typical of Shingen.     In addition, original Zenkoji was originally the Honda family residence, and Buddhist statues and ancestors were enshrined on the left and right sides of the inner shrine, and were treated equally, but another Zenkoji, which was built by Shingen, did not enshrine the Honda family ancestors.  As proof of this, at another Zenkoji temple, the Takeda family crest and the Tokugawa family crest, which was rebuilt after the temple was destroyed by fire, are displayed on the front of the main hall.

zenkoji (5)
zenkoji (5)

Additionally, a singing dragon is painted on the ceiling, and if you clap your hands in a specific spot, a tremendous echo will be heard between the ceiling panels and the floor.    You can really feel the influence of Zen Buddhism during the Sengoku period.    On the other hand, I remember that the original Nagano ceiling painting was a gift from the imperial family.

When you think of Zenkoji Temple, you are guaranteed to visit a place under the Buddhist altar in pitch darkness to connect with the Buddha through the key (alter tour), but of course there is a similar experience at another Zenkoji.    However, the length of the walk in the dark is short and the turns are sharp, so those who have experienced the original will be surprised at how different it is and occasionally bump their heads.   If you are careless, you will pass by without touching the key, so be careful.    Don’t forget to see the war drum before going to the darkness.    This is the real one used by the Takeda army in the Battle of Kawanakajima.    Let’s tap it a little bit without being noticed by the people around you.

The treasure hall here is a must-see and contains the oldest wooden statues of Minamoto no Yoritomo and Sanetomo.    The year of manufacture is close to the year of death, so it seems that it is almost a copy of the real face.  Sanetomo has the look of a court noble, but in contrast, Yoritomo has a stout face and an aquiline nose.    You can see from his face that he is highly suspicious.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
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