It is said that there is a world of ease in the far west where lotus flowers bloom, free from suffering and worries. Buddhism associates the fear of death with the west, where the sun sets, and preaches that paradise lies in the west. Therefore, Amitabha Buddha is enshrined in the west. Jodoji Temple is the embodiment of this idea in its original form.
This is one of temples which were built in various places to collect donations for the reconstruction of Todaiji Temple in Nara. It is such a magnificent temple that if they had that kind of money, they should have used it to rebuild Todaiji itself. The shape of main hall’s roof reminds us of Gangoji Temple in Nara.
jodoji(2)main hall
jodoji(4)
jodoji(5)hydrangea in summer
jodoji(6)shrine in the temple
Once inside, the setting sun shining through lattice doors illuminates the floorboards, and the giant Amida Triad shines golden in the reflected light. It gives a sense of the great imagination that came with this effect at the time. Please note that the closing times are different in summer and winter. Maybe it’s because the sunset time is different. On the other hand, there is also a lunch break time. Interestingly, there is Hachiman Shrine, which cuts through the flow of traffic within the temple grounds.
jodoji amidasub temple (4)dwart made by a monk
The chief priest of the sub-temple, Kanki-in adjacent to Jodoji Temple is making cute dolls made of clay. They also have seasonal dolls, which is a great appeal to repeat customers. However, even though it’s a temple and not a shrine, the dolls come with fortune telling fortunes.
promenard to sub temple (1)
promenard to sub temple (2)
sub temple (3)
sub temple (1)
sub temple (2)
Detour
In summer, a huge sunflower field appears just around Jodoji Temple.
sun flower field
Today’s INN
A hot spring inn located in the back of Himeji City.
The three-storied pagoda is a national treasure. The hanging scrolls with portraits of Prince Shotoku Taishi and Founder of Tendai sect Saicho in the treasure hall are also national treasures. However, advance reservations are required for the latter. After paying the entrance fee at the foot of the temple mountain, I made my way up the more than 400 stone steps to the main hall where tickets to the treasure hall are sold, keeping an eye on the three-storied pagoda on my left but caring about the reservation time at the treasure hall. Then, I paid the ticket to the treasure hall to the monk at the main hall, and he told me that the treasure hall was down the stone steps and next to the entrance! Why aren’t they sold at the entrance? Seeing the disappointed look on my face, the monk told me that I could take my time to see the main hall and then visit the treasure hall on my way home. I’m thankful for that, but I’m starting to wonder why.
ichijoji; still stone steps to main hall
From the main hall, you can look down on the three-storied pagoda standing dignified in the middle of a dense mountain, and the gentle breeze is refreshing.
ichijoji (2)
ichijoji (4)pagoda national tresure
ichijoji (5)
On the side wall of the main hall, I found large letters that looked like they had been scrawled in ink. They are nice letters, but the content doesn’t seem to have anything to do with the temple. Later, when I stopped by Jodoji Temple (see next post) and saw almost the same on display, I realized that it was a doodle made by someone who had visited the temple at the time. Although it’s common in any era, it’s still a bold doodle.
ichijoji (8)ancient graffiti
ichijoji (9)inside of main hall
ichijoji (7)corridor of main hall
ichijoji pagoda
Well, I took my time touring the main hall and the three-storied pagoda, and finally stopped at the treasure hall on my way back, but it didn’t have a particularly strict entrance, and I was told that I could come in freely, which made me feel strange. There were various Buddhist statues from that time, and at the very back there were portraits of Shotoku Taishi and Saicho, but they were so sharp that I wondered, and when I read the description, it turned out to be an exquisite reproduction. Real national treasures are stored in museums, right? If that’s the case, what’s the point of requiring advance reservations, and of not selling tickets until you’re on top of the mountain?
It’s a temple full of questions, but at least it’s better than the crowded and uncomfortable temples in Kyoto.
Just 80 minutes from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, you will arrive at the snow-covered city of prayer. The exterior design of the Nagano Station building is an homage to the main hall of Zenkoji Temple. Daimon, entrance of Zenkoji, is about a 10 minute bus ride from bus stop number 1 in front of the station. The best time to visit is early in the morning when there are fewer worshipers on the approach, and this is when the shops on both sides of the approach open their shutters.
hokuriku bullet train
nagano station
The pair of statues of A-un at the Niomon gate is powerful and reminds us of the statues made by Unkei at Todaiji Temple.
niomon1
niomon2
niomon3
sanmon1 approach
The Sanmon Gate finally comes into view in front of us, and it reminds us of the Sanmon Gate of Chion-in Temple in Kyoto, or the Sanmon Gate of Nanzen-ji Temple, where the great thief Goemon enjoyed a spectacular view from the top of the gate. When you climb up here, you can see Nagano city below and the surrounding mountains, but you can also feel that Zenkoji is located at the top of the alluvial fan.
sanmon2
from sanmon1 nagano city
sanmon3 plaque
The name of Zenkoji is written on the plaque on the temple gate. Normally people would be excited to find the five pigeons hidden inside the kanji, but I’m more curious about why the name of the temple is written on the plaque when the mountain name is usually written on it. Returning to the topic of looking for pigeons, it is difficult to find the last one, but the biggest hint is that its tail is visible. Just find it on site.
zenkoji eko pillar
I also asked the security guard at the temple gate and was convinced that there was still a knowledge hidden in this plaque. At Zenkoji Temple, an Eko (memorial service) pillar is erected in front of the main hall once every six years in order to connect with Maedachi on behalf of the principal image, and touching this pillar is a major event. Speaking of Zenkoji Temple, there is a famous story called
“Visiting Zenkoji Temple being pulled by a Cow”
in which a woman who did not believe in Buddhism got her costume caught in the horns of a cow, and the woman chased after it to get it back and ends up visiting Zenkoji Temple. The cow was an incarnation of Buddha. The face of the cow and the Kanji character of a sheep, animal 6th year after a cow year in the Chinese zodiac, are hidden in this Zenkoji plaque.
from sanmon2
from sanmon3 kyozo
from sanmon4 hondo
Now, we finally enter the main hall, but since the attraction here is famous, where you search for the key to connect with the principal image in the dark, you can’t help but head towards the entrance of an altar tour first. Then, the monk who guides tourists inside the temple scolds them, saying, “What’s wrong with going into someone’s house and not greeting the Lord?” Then you notice that the principal image of the Buddha, which should be located directly in front of the center inside the main hall, is now to the left of the center. To the right of the center is a statue of the Lord of the house and his family. The monk explains that Zenkoji is not actually a temple, but Zenko-san’s private residence, and the Buddha is enshrined there. So, first of all, you have to say hello to the Lord.
By the way, I couldn’t get enough of being scolded, so I asked him about the secret Buddha statue, which even the head priest of Zenkoji Temple had never seen, how big it was and what it was made of, and he answered smoothly that it was 1 sun and 8 shaku (about 54cm) tall and made of gold. The story is about Mr. HONDA Yoshimitsu (Zenko), a local civil servant, who picked up a Buddhist statue that had been abandoned (due to the Mononobe clan’s anti-Buddhism movement during the Asuka period) in Namba (Osaka) while on a business trip. The story is that since people didn’t know about the existence of Buddha or the value of gold at that time, no one would have paid any attention to it even if it was thrown away. It makes sense, but I wonder if that’s true.
Afterwards, Minamoto no Yoritomo also visited Zenkoji Temple, and the secret Buddha statue was brought out by Takeda Shingen and returned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In any case, it was famous enough to be talked about at the time. By the way, when you look up at the ceiling, you can see the pattern of the chrysanthemum crest. The monk boasts that this is proof that the Imperial family donated the money.
entrance of altar tour at zenkoji (Source: Zenkoji HP)
Now it’s time to tour the altar. At the entrance, hold your luggage in your left hand and run along the wall with your right hand to touch the key that connects to the principal image above. It’s getting darker and darker, and I’m afraid to take a step forward. I don’t think anything will come out, but it’s scarier than a haunted house. I suddenly feel anxious and want to hold on to something or someone (=> Buddha) to guide me. This is the purpose of the altar tour. At first I thought that if someone lost something in the pitch darkness, the monk would look for it with a flashlight, but as the tour progressed, the darkness made me forget that.
zenkoji pine tree
zennkoji pagoda
zenkouji the person who invest rinzo
Finally, go to the sutra. I’m amazed at the opportunism that by rotating the octagonal receptacle that holds the sutras by hands, you can get the same merit as reading all 7,000 volumes of sutras. I heard that the weight of the storage receptacle is 5 tons, of which 1.2 tons are sutras, but does the difference of 3.8 tons relate to merit?
Hei-rin-ji Temple was named after the flat (“Hei” in Japanese) forest (“rin” in Japanese). Friendly and easy to understand. The entire vast precinct is colored with autumn leaves, and there is a walking path within the precinct. If you go to the back, there are places where the leaves have not turned autumn yet, so you can enjoy the gradation. But anyway, it’s hard to take a detour. You have to take a bus from Hibarigaoka station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.
heirinji temple walking map
heirin temple15 promnard of backyard
heirin temple1
heirin temple2
heirin temple3
heirin temple4
heirin temple5
heirin temple7
heirin temple8
heirin temple9
heirin temple10
heirin temple12
heirin temple13
heirin temple14
heirin temple17
heirin temple16
heirin temple18
heirin temple20
heirin temple19
heirin temple22
heirin temple21
heirin temple23
Hibarigaoka is a famous place that was developed as a mammoth housing complex to meet the demand for new families to live during the time when Japan’s population increased explosively due to the baby boom. The housing complex is on the opposite side of the station from Heirinji Temple, but renovations have progressed and some of the former housing complexes are now being used as shops, one of which is a café that serves giant pancakes. It’s baked after you order it, so please look forward to it.
There are no unsophisticated people who come to the Seto Inland Sea and travel by land from Onomichi to Tomonoura. On the way of sea, you can see a large suspension bridge, a shipyard, and Kannon who prays for maritime safety. However, please note that this cruise ship makes two round trips a day only on weekends and holidays.
Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura
cruising1
cruising3 shimanami kaido
cruising4 fishing boat
cruising5 shipyard
cruising6 shipyard dock
cruising7 utsumi ohashi
cruising8 abuto kannon
cruising10
cruising11
cruising12 goal
Well, Tomonoura is located right in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea and was a port of waiting for the tide in the age of ships that depended on the wind and currents. The high tide coming from the east and west channels of the Seto Inland Sea collides offshore, and the force is used to enter the port. When leaving the port to advance offshore, it uses the power of the ebb tide that pulls it to the east and west .
The place where the Korean envoys stopped by still remains, and it is also the place where Japan’s first maritime casualty negotiations occurred between steamships on the late Edo period. Here is the site of a true story in which the Kishu Domain (almost Wakayama prefecture), which was under the control of the shogunate, was defeated by the Kaientai led by Ryoma Sakamoto, according to the World Public Law.
It’s fun to take a leisurely stroll through the nostalgic port town. This is the stage of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” produced by Studio Ghibli. Furthermore,‘Hohmeishu’, sweet sake with Japanese herbs, is famous, but you should also try original sweet sake ‘mirin’ which enhances the flavor of the dish.
tomonoura1 fukuzenn temple
tomonoura2 hohmeishu sake of life
tomonoura3
tomonoura4 allnight lighthouse
tomonoura5 meien temple buddha birthday decoration
Western Pure Land, namely paradise after death in the direction where the sun sets, is where the Agano River flows out west from the Aizu Basin.
As I mentioned three types of Buddha statues, the latest type was ‘Amida’ who promises the happiness of the next life in an uneasy era when the plague spread and war began to break out here and there at Heian period end. “The next life begins from next day” was connected to sun set and people has believed in paradise after death in the west.
That is Western Pure Land.
niouzou in kamiunai yakushi
On the other hand, it seems that the people of the Middle Ages had traveled quite far. The Aizu Lord regretted that money would drop in other areas, and set up 33 Kannon tours in his territory by connecting 33 Buddhist temples with the same history as Nara, accomplishment of it would promise happiness for the next life.
There are many places of faith in Western Pure Land in Aizu, but choose below.
gingyo 800 years old
Shingu-Kumano Shrine
800 years old Ginkgo and huge worship hall without walls
kamiunai yakushi temple
Kamiunai-Yakushi Temple
(prior reservation)
The same style of Buddha statue as in Shoujiji Temple.
eryuji temple
Eryuji Temple
7m height Kannon(Buddha statue) carved in a standing tree with 30 statues including statues with wings like a christian angel statue.
Sake difficult to obtain
hiroki sake brewery
Faith and sake have always been linked. Great sake exists in Western Pure Land. ‘Hiroki’ is my favorite sake. Side dish is not needed and I enjoy it alone.
sake hiroki out of stock
“Even I can’t get it.”, said the worker in that brewery in Aizu Bange downtown. I failed to get fantastic sake directly.
Temple size is now small but the meaning is comparable to Yakushiji Temple in Nara, where the main statue is Buddha giving medicine to people.
If I write without fear of misunderstanding, there are three types of Buddha statues: Buddha, the founder of enlightenment, pharmacist (Namely ‘Yakushi’ is a medicine master in literary in Japanese.)who cures the illness of this world, and Amida who promises the happiness of the next life.
bandai mountains from shoujyouji
Advance reservations* are required to view Yakushi Nyorai(Buddha statue), but it is a good opportunity to know that there was a similar Buddhist culture in the area away from Kyoto and Nara.
*)Local people take care of the temple by themselves.
Small Detour
nanukamachi street in aizu wakamatsu city
There are many tourist destinations in Aizu-Wakamatsu City, but this site is about the countryside, so I will omit it here. I had a glance of historical street ‘Nanukamachi’ by chance passing through the city.
Sazaedo is located at the foot* of Mt.Iimori, where 19 young samurais committed suicide by seeing a burning their lord’s castle in 1868 when Aizu Domain was artificially hit by the new government after the Edo Shogunate to show it.
*)There was a guide to recommend using a paid escalator not to get tired when going to the sacred place from now on. What about that?
The Aizu-Wakamatsu city at twilight that spreads to the west was very impressive.
twilight aizu wakamatsu chity
Sazaedo means not only the name ‘Turban shell Temple’ in English but also the shape of inside structure. When you enter from the front, the slope climbs in a spiral to the right. However, when you cross the bridge at the top, it turns into a descending counterclockwise slope, and at the end you will be behind the building. This structure not only did not cause traffic congestion inside, but it was also a place where people could visit many Buddha efficiently by placing 33 Kannon(Buddha statues) on the slope at that time. Was it profitable in faith?
sazaedo inside topsazaedo side
Distant view of Inawashiro Lake like Death Sea in Israel and Jordan and Mt.Bandai illuminated by the setting sun
Kameoka Monjyu-dou is one of Japan’s three major Monjyu Bodhisattva with wisdom.
Two heads are better than one.
There are similar expressions in each country, but in Japan, the three heads are said to be comparable to the Monjyu Bodhisattva. Is Monjyu Bodhisattva respected with three heads or is it lightly seen?
Abe Monjyu-in in Nara prefecture is the most famous and worth seeing as National treasure, but Kameoka’s is simple and friendly in the countryside. The sculptures of the monks studying along the approach of the tree lined with cedars welcomed us.
Kameoka sculpture2
Kameoka Monjyu in
Kameoka sub hall
Kameoka sculpture
I was surprised that there is a hierarchy in the world of Buddha. An enlightened person is called Nyorai as highest rank, and is usually accompanied by several Bodhisattva. Furthermore, there are many layers under the Bodhisattva. The world of Buddha is also tough.
No graffiti
By the way, Bonjyu Bodhisattva is a Buddha of wisdom who is an attendant of Shaka Nyorai. That’s why many examinees are visiting and the examination season is at the time of earning money at Kameoka Bonjyu-dou. Although I wasn’t in the examination season when I visited there, many children were worshiping in the hall with parents and I was impressed that it was a temple that blended into the area. On the other hand, the attention not to doodle on the Monjyu-dou was indicated, but “Your graffiti halves your wisdom”, or something that it should be written down on its attention with a little more wisdom ! When you go to the back of the hall, you will find water that gives you wisdom when you drink it. Drinking too much water halves your wisdom !
Akutsu Hachimangu1
In Takahata Town, there is another old shrine that should not be overlooked. From Akutsu Hachiman, I think it is a historical shrine of Genji.
There was a magnificent thatched main shrine at the back, but for some reason there was a triple-storied pagoda of Buddhist architecture at the shrine.
Sasano Kannon is one of the 33 Kannon pilgrimages in Okitama area, but it is especially admirable because the lord of the Yonezawa domain had visited it repeatedly. The roof is very large compared to the lower structure, and the sculptures under the eaves are rich and detailed.
sculpture of dragon and crane
good foot prayer
Kannon aims to relieve people’s suffering by changing 33 forms and faces, so 33 Kannon pilgrimage routes had been established in various areas, and it is interesting that industries such as local specialty products are flourishing there.
entrance gate of Sasano Kannon
facade of Sasano Kannon
In Sasano Kannon, lord Youzan Uesugi encouraged the hawk carving by only one engraving tool, and its technology has been passed down to the present day near the Kannon.
The hawk’s carvings made from the Enju tree, Japanese Pagoda tree, have a reddish exposed core that forms part of the design (see below left). It is said that Enju is good for longevity and success in life because it is written in Kanji, Japanese character, that the life span extends. Japanese people like these word games !
Hawk sculpture1
Hawk sculpture3
The famous saying* is displayed (see above right) because the store name is ‘Youzan’, which President Kennedy had respected. >Please read detail another post.
*)”If you try to do, it can be achieved, if you don’t, it will never be achieved. Achieving nothing is due to one’s own intention to not try.”
Hawk sculpture0 shop
Hawk sculpture2 workplace
I found something valuable in this shop. It’s a basket woven from mountain vines and sells for $3,000 to $4,000 per department store in Tokyo. See for yourself how much is here.
Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura
The place where the Korean envoys stopped by still remains, and it is also the place where Japan’s first maritime casualty negotiations occurred between steamships on the late Edo period. Here is the site of a true story in which the Kishu Domain (almost Wakayama prefecture), which was under the control of the shogunate, was defeated by the Kaientai led by Ryoma Sakamoto, according to the World Public Law.
