Points that everyone misses at the World Heritage Site Himeji Castle

himeji castle(2)with cherry blossoms

Himeji Castle was the first place in Japan to be registered as a World Heritage Site, along with Horyuji Temple in Nara.    In addition, there are 12 castles that still have castle towers from the Edo period, and of these, the castle with its imposing appearance is the one you want to visit first.    The reason for this is that in its 400-year history, it has never been destroyed by war, nor has it suffered any damage in modern wars, so it remains as it was in the past.    Furthermore, the tiles and walls are hardened with white plaster to protect against wind, rain, and enemy attacks. This gives the entire castle a pure white appearance, and it is so elegant that it has been compared to the white heron, which is common in western Japan.

himeji castle(8)
himeji castle(8) sarcophagus

The structure of the castle is made up of many layers of moats and walls, like a spiral escargot, making it difficult to reach the castle tower.    If you take a photo with the castle tower in the background, you will end up having to press the shutter too often, so be careful.   By the way, there was a shortage of stones for the stone walls when castles were being constructed, so sarcophagi from the Kofun period were used as the stone walls for the gates and the stone mills that the residents used in their homes are embedded in the stone wall, so don’t forget to keep an eye on them.

There is also a ghost story about Himeji Castle called Banshu Sarayashiki.    There was an incident in which an undercover female spy sent against a vassal who betrayed his lord was killed for losing one of ten family heirloom plates, and was thrown into a well by the vassal.   After that, every night a woman could be heard counting the number of plates up to nine from inside the well.    This well is located within Himeji Castle and is named after a woman, “Okiku no Ido” (the well of Okiku).   It’s below the castle tower.    Don’t miss it.

By the way, there is a famous rakugo story based on this ghost story.    It is said that if you hear Okiku counting nine or more pieces, you will die, so a show hut was built around the well.   The hut is crowded with customers who have seen something scary, and Okiku counts up to nearly nine, but the customers are in a state of panic because the exit is narrow and they can’t escape.   Okiku finally counts more than 10 cards to 18, but no one dies.    What did Okiku say at that time?   To find out what happens next, please go to a vaudeville where rakugo is being performed.    Looks like things are going well later.

 

sun flower field
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Are dolphins messengers of God?

dolphin watching4

From the Amakusa Islands, Mount Unzen on the Shimabara Peninsula can be seen nearby, and many wild dolphins live here where the Ariake Sea exits into the East China Sea.    In any case, as soon as we set out on our fishing boat, the dolphins started chasing us as if they were enjoying the competition.   Several of them work together to blow the tide and pass under the bottom of the ship.  It’s like a messenger of peace.

Although it is advertised as a sightseeing boat for viewing dolphins, the hull is essentially a fishing boat.    The price includes lunch.     I was wondering to myself what would happen if I ate it, got on board, and got seasick.

A detour

As you head north along the west coast of the island from Sakitsu Church, you will see “Myoken-ura”, a sea cliff shaped like an elephant, “Tits Rock”, which is difficult to take photos with women, and a lighthouse floating off the coast that looks like “the Statue of Liberty”.   In Amakusa City, you can buy Amakusa pottery “Kohiki” that was introduced from Korea, and Gion Bridge, which is a stone bridge but has multiple girders lined up instead of arches, is a must-see.”

Another detour

At the tip of the Misumi Peninsula, where the bridge to the Amakusa Islands crosses, there is a stone wharf called Misumi Nishi Port that remains from the Meiji period, and has been designated as a World Cultural Heritage Site.    If you have time, it’s a place where you can relax.

 

aso statute of nirvana left
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Hidden Christians in the Amakusa Islands are not hidden

sakitsu church1

The colonial policy hidden behind the sale of Christian missionary work and trade as a set terrified the Edo shogunate, and with the isolation of the country, Christians fell prey to the banning policy.     Shortly after the establishment of the shogunate, there was a large-scale battle to suppress Christianity (the Shimabara Rebellion), and the victorious shogunate suffered heavy losses, and many Christian farmers in the region died or were dispersed.     As a result, they were unable to harvest any crops at all.    Even so, there were still many Christians remaining in Amakusa and Shimabara.     It is said that 90% of the people in the town of Sakitsu were Christians, and since they all survived as they were, it seems that even if they were hidden Christians, it was an open secret.

The villagers who were accused of being Christians claimed to believe in a local deity inherited from their ancestors, while Shogunate officials, fearing a repeat of the Shimabara Rebellion that had endangered the Shogunate and the subsequent sharp decline in the agricultural population, denied the truth and did not disclose it  publicly.

ohetenshudo2
ohe-tenshudo

Perhaps it was wisdom that determined that the  villagers had a “misunderstanding of the sect” (they did not believe in Christianity, but that he believed in the wrong religion without realizing it was a mistake) and did not certify them as Christians.    I am impressed that there were officials with such good sense at that time.    There are many churches in the Amakusa Islands.    Many believers still maintain their faith.

Sakitsu downtown is a part of World Heritage “Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region”, although not in the Nagasaki Region.

On the way to the Amakusa islands

go to amakusa islands6 Mt.Unzen
Mt.Unzen on the way to Amakusa islands

You can reach the Amakusa Islands by crossing a number of beautiful bridges from the Misumi Peninsula.    On the way, you can clearly see the Shimabara Peninsula and Mt. Unzen across the Ariake Sea.    However, driving while looking away is prohibited.

Cave hot spring inn Yurakutei (Yumigahama beach in Ohyano island)

Guests are welcomed by writing their names on the sake jar at the entrance of the inn.    The owner has dug a cave by hand and you can enjoy hot springs inside it.    Anyway, for dinner there will be more fish dishes caught in the Ariake Sea than you can finish.

 

aso statute of nirvana left
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Still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine

itsukushima shrine1

I wrote that Hiroshima is not only about the World Heritage Itsukushima Shrine, but, still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine.

Just the other day, the G7 leaders visited Itsukushima Shrine.   A shrine floating on the surface of the sea is beautiful, but a shrine at ebb tide isn’t bad either.    Oh, don’t be disappointed if the time doesn’t match, feel like you’ve come to dig clams and touch the red big torii that you usually can’t get close to.

itsukushima shrine5
itsukushima shrine5

Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara had many wild deer, messengers of the gods, and there are also many wild deer here.    However, since they are not treated as messengers of the gods, feeding them is prohibited.    Even with the same deer, the difference in treatment is considerable.   But there was a person who gave them momiji manju with the shape of maple.   Momiji manju is certainly delicious for humans to eat, but I definitely recommend eating the plump conger eel before crossing over to Itsukushima.    No high-end restaurant can match the taste.

Morning walk in Hiroshima and …

Western Japan has many feudal lord’s gardens right in town.    At that time, feudal lords competed to have a garden with large ponds built.    Shukkeien in Hiroshima is one of famous gardens.  There are trees that survived the atomic bomb.  Okonomiyaki when you are hungry.    People in Hiroshima seem to eat okonomiyaki from lunch, but I’m impressed that they can eat it without beer.

itsukushima shrine1
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The cat road full of slopes is photogenic. Onomichi is a mecca for movies and anime.

onomichi13 skyview center
onomichi17 down slope
onomichi17 down slope

Anyway, Onomichi has a lot of slopes, cats and temples.   If you get lost in the narrow roads  friendly to cats, you are sure to come across a photogenic scenery.

Since Onomichi has a quiet channel between it and Mukaishima island on the opposite shore, it has been used since the Middle Ages as a shipping port for rice as annual tribute from inland manors and a shipping port for

onomichi road indication to Izumo
onomichi road indication to Izumo

 

 

silver from Izumo’s Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, which has become a World Heritage Site.

 

 

Takauji Ashikaga, who established the Muromachi Shogunate, also used this place as a foothold to advance to Kyoto.

onomichi3 joudo temple
onomichi3 joudo temple

A town packed with various elements.   That’s why it may be used in movies and anime scenes.   Walking route is as below.

The ropeway in the town is quite crowded, but from the top you can see the beauty of islands in the Seto Inland Sea.  The time of sunset is the target.  During the cherry blossom season, the whole mountain is dyed in cherry blossom color.

View from the top

onomichi cherry blossom season
onomichi cherry blossom season
itsukushima shrine1
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Shirakami mountains (World Heritage)

shirakami mountains walking 1
bear scratches
bear scratches

It is easy to approach the entrance to World Heritage, but places inside where a tourist could reach by himself were limited.  Furthermore ‘Anmon Fall’* was closed due to typhoon damages.  You should chose between to be satisfied with a glance or to spend all day.  Next time I would like to challenge with a guide.

kumagera tapping the tree
kumagera tapping the tree

 

 

 

*)There are many approach routes to the heart of Shirakami mountains.  ’Twenty ponds walking course’ is easily accessible from the sea side with public transportation and you can feel variety of nature.

 

Galley(click photo)

Mt.Gentagatake
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Motsuji-Temple, World Heritage, and Yoshitsune self-harm land overlooking the Kitakami River where basho wrote famous haiku

kitakami river

‘The Summer grasses / Of brave soldier’s dreams / The aftermath’

by Basho

Basho traveled to Tohoku district during the Edo period and left many famous haiku poems. One of them is the battlefield of the distant past.  The view of the flowing Kitakami River where Basho wrote this haiku was impressed and too sad because this was just the place where Yoshitsune harmed himself being surrounded by his brother’s army and where the glory of Hiraizumi began to collapse.   Almost the same fate as the one of Emishi was repeated.

Stories of Aterui and Yoshitsune in another post     >read more

Motsuji Temple, World Heritage

motsuji temple pond
motsuji temple pond

It was said that Hiraizumi had the same scale and brilliance as the capital of Kyoto during its Golden Age.  Being far from the political center brought peace and prosperity to Hiraizumi.  The garden in Motsuji Temple has been restored and remind us of Uji-Byodoin Temple in Kyoto.

Gallery (click photos)

Chusonji Temple, World Heritage, where the highlights are connected by a too long slope, and finally arrive at the Golden Hall after getting tired

chusonji temple gate

‘Eary summer rains / Fall not here / Temple of light’

by Basho

cyusonji temple basho
chusonji temple basho

Basho traveled to Tohoku district during the Edo period and left many famous haiku poems. One of them is the Chusonji Temple, especially the golden hall.  The hall was shining with a dazzling light, which seemed to have prevented the rain.   It may have something to do with the discovery in Tohoku as a result of exploring the whole country because a large amount of gold was needed to manufacture the Great Buddha of Todaiji Temple in the Nara era.

cyusonji temple oi
chusonji temple oi

You can’t reach the golden hall unless you climb a fairly long slope. There are many highlights, so let’s save your physical strength.  One of highlights I thought was the backpack ‘oi’ Benkei used when he came back to Hiraizumi to accompany his master Yoshitsune and escaped from the army of Yoshitsune’s brother Minamoto no Yoritomo.  I was surprised that there was something like this.  It was made of wood with ‘Kamakura’ carving.  How ironic it is that the name of carving method came from the capital name where Yoritomo put the political center.

koromogawa saku
koromogawa saku

Here around Chusonji Temple is strategic region that have been important since ancient times.   It was the forefront base when the Yamato Imperial Court was trying to expand its power to the north in Heian period, and it was also the forefront of Emishi defense.  The captured leader of Emishi, Aterui, was killed in Kyoto, almost the same as the fate of Yoshitsune.   You can look down on Japan’s oldest ancient battlefield from the place you climbed up, but the only trace is the lush river.  Against this background, another Basho haiku has been created.

cyusonji temple big trees
chusonji temple big trees
cyusonji temple basho
chusonji temple basho haiku