Introduction
Present-day Yamanashi Prefecture is home to Mt. Fuji and the Fuji Five Lakes, and is a familiar tourist destination easily accessible from the Tokyo metropolitan area. However, it was once known as “Land of Kai”, and was ruled by the governments of East (Kamakura) or West (Kyoto) as a defense base. Therefore, there is a strong obsessiveness with place names from long ago, but names of Kofu City, Kai City, Koshu City, Yamanashi City, and Fuefuki City, which were reorganized and named after large-scale municipal mergers, have no idea where they are located in Yamanashi Prefecture. It’s hard to guess. Kai City, which has adopted a name from ancient times, is a commuter town for Kofu City, and Yamanashi City, which has the same name as the prefecture, and Koshu City, which makes you imagine that it is in the same area as the prefecture, are even more confused about where they are. Only a small portion of the Fuefuki River passes through Fuefuki City. As I drive, the signs on the side of the road change rapidly as I enter and exit these cities whose names and locations I can’t even imagine, and my head becomes more and more confused. I think this happened because the administrative districts competed against each other. I guess there must have been some quarrel over the naming.
Well, in ancient times, the most honorable thing was the lineage. In the political world, hereditary inheritance is criticized now. In samurai society, the well-known lineage was the one of the Genji clan, which was a branch family from the Emperor. The Takeda family, as well as the Yasuda family that ruled the region even before that, were descendants of the Genji clan. In fact, it is said that the main force that fought directly with the Taira clan was the Genji clan in the Kofu Basin, land of Kai. For this reason, Minamoto no Yoritomo, who wanted to remain the only member of the Genji lineage, killed the Yasuda family and his entire family, including his younger brother, Minamoto no Yoshitsune. It seems that even Tokugawa Ieyasu claimed to be a descendant of Genji, but its authenticity is highly doubtful.
Now, regarding Takeda Shingen, all the history in the Kofu Basin is linked to Takeda Shingen, and most of the souvenirs are named Shingen〇〇. In Miyagi Prefecture, it would be Date (Masamune) 〇〇, but even though Uesugi Kenshin was a famous Sengoku warlord, he was moved from Joetsu to Aizu and Yonezawa, so his close ties with the region were weakened, so Uesugi 〇〇 is not heard much.
On this trip, let’s pay close attention to Takeda Shingen.
Detail
1st day (Rise of the Takeda family)
Shosenkyo Gorge, the source of power stones
Within an hour by bus from the south exit of Kofu Station on the JR Chuo Main Line. Or about 40 minutes from Futaba IC of the Chuo Expressway. There are three parking lots along Shosenkyo’s 5km promenade. You can either walk back the same way to return to the parking lot, or you can use a local bus for one-way trips (the bus interval is about 1 hour), as there are bus stops at each parking lot.
Another Zenkoji Temple
Why is there a temple that looks just like Zenkoji in Nagano? Comparing the two reveals something interesting. 30 minutes by car from Shosenkyo. If you are using public transportation, take a taxi from JR Chuo Main Line Kofu Station (limited express stop) or 15 minutes walk from Sakaori Station(only local train stop). A huge wooden structure that can be recognized even from a distance.
(left) another Zenkoji Temple (right) original Zenkoji Temple
Erinji Temple, Tenryuji Temple in Kai
It is the family temple of the Takeda clan. It has a beauty that rivals that of Tenryuji Temple in Kyoto, and it is also magnificent. 20 minutes by car from Kai-Zenkoji Temple. If you are using public transportation, the closest station is Enzan Station on the JR Chuo Main Line.
Hokoji, the family temple of the Yasuda clan, the true driving force behind the Genpei War
Precious Buddhist statues are kept. Next to Erinji Temple to the north. The road to the Sanmon Gate is uphill, so it’s easy to miss the corner you should turn.
2nd day (Fall of the Takeda family)
Ryumonkyo Gorge and autumn leaves to enjoy the outdoors
If you are coming from Tokyo, you should get off at Otsuki IC, or if you are coming from Kofu, you should get off at Katsunuma IC to reach two Ryumonkyo Parking Lots within 1 hour. Walk up a little from the parking lot and cross the bridge to enter the hiking trail. There is also a bus bound for Daibosatsu Pass from JR Kai-Yamato Station, but it runs infrequently.
The rock garden of Seiun-ji Temple, the place where the Takeda clan was revived
After walking for 75 minutes on the Ryumonkyo hiking course, you will reach Seiun-ji Temple by climbing steeply at the end. There is also a bus bound for Daibosatsu Pass from Kai-Yamato Station. When you climb up to this point, you can see the top part of Mt. Fuji. This temple is said to be the first place where soba was made into noodles from the shape of sobagaki. You can also practice zazen meditation on natural stones.
Is the priest of Daizenji Temple (National Treasure) a winemaker?
There is Yakushido, a national treasure. Since the medicine master (Buddha statue) had a bunch of grapes instead of a pot, grapes are grown and wine is also brewed within the temple grounds. It is located on the cliff along National Route 20, just out of the mountains into the Kofu Basin, so it is easy to pass by. Near Katsunuma IC. Topographically, it corresponds to the top of an alluvial fan.
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