Introduction
The name Uonuma is written with kanji characters meaning “swamp where fish live,” and it originates from the fact that this area was once a marshland. Uonuma Koshihikari rice is widely recognized among Japanese people as being of the highest quality. I used to think that land suitable for rice cultivation could be found all over Japan. However, after actually coming here, I realized that this area receives significantly more snowfall than the Niigata Plain, with snow reaching up to 3 meters in winter. The sound of flowing water can be heard from all directions, and I wonder if the deliciousness of Uonuma rice is due to the nutrients carried down from the mountains.
Now, I didn’t come to Uonuma just to check out the delicious rice. It’s because of the rich cultural and artistic traditions that thrive in this heavy snowfall region. The Joetsu Shinkansen, which connects Tokyo and Niigata, passes right through here, and indeed, the Shinkansen is named Joetsu (meaning the area around Niigata City), not Chūetsu (the region including Uonuma City).
Detail
What’s at Urasa Station, where the Shinkansen stops?
Urasa Station is the gateway to Uonuma, but even though the Shinkansen stops there, the area in front of the station is rather desolate. It seems to be a politically motivated station, and a bronze statue of the person responsible for its establishment stands in front of the station. But its solitary presence in the otherwise desolate setting only intensifies the sense of loneliness.
Now, Bishamondo Temple, famous for its Naked Festival, is just a short walk from this station.
Who started calling him the Japanese Michelangelo?
Certain people in a particular region (i.e., those in the tourism industry) are promoting sculptor Ishikawa Uncho as Japan’s Michelangelo. His masterpieces are extensively carved into the structures of the temples Eirinji and Saifukuji in Uonuma City, but there is no efficient way to visit both temples. There are only a few local buses a day, and the routes to the two temples are separate and not connected. It also takes well over 30 minutes to walk from the nearest local train station. Furthermore, especially in winter, the visiting hours are from 10 am to 4 pm. Moreover, since there is no sunlight in winter, the inside of the temple hall becomes dark as evening approaches, making it difficult to see the exquisitely crafted carvings. In the end, due to concerns about snow and the lack of nearby rental car companies, I ended up using Times Car Share at Urasa Station. It is definitely worth taking the time to appreciate it.
Withstands heavy snowfall of 3 meters
I’ve always wanted to ride the Tadami Railway, which runs from Uonuma to Aizu. It’s an extremely local railway, taking over four hours to complete the entire journey. I’m amazed they managed to build a railway through such deep gorges. However, this winter, due to heavy snowfall, the train was only running a turnaround before reaching Lake Tadami.
Just before the turnaround station is Echigo-Nasu Station, where a mansion belonging to a wealthy farmer, built to withstand three meters of heavy snowfall, still stands. There is also a sake brewery that retains this heavy snow until summer, using it as an icehouse for aging sake. Both routes are snowy, but it’s only a five-minute walk. However, in this area, if you try to eat at a slightly off-peak time, the restaurants are closed. I was hoping there would be a rest house since there’s a ski resort nearby, so I went there dressed for walking around town rather than skiing clothes, but the shop was closed.
Finally, a word of caution. If you plan to return to Uonuma city in the evening, there are no other places open to visit, so you’ll have to wait an hour and a half at Echigo-Nasu Station. Moreover, even though it’s the middle of winter, the station building is not heated. The only place to kill time is the local general store near the station. They sell unusual ingredients there.
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