Taketa City is famous for the ruins of Oka Castle, a castle built on top of a cliff. It is the motif of the song “Kojo no Tsuki” (Moon over the Ruins of the Castle) composed by the musician Rentaro Taki, but I’ve already been there so I’ll pass this time. I took a walk around the old town, which I hadn’t been able to see last time. It’s a town with a sense of history like Kyoto. I was surprised to see a bronze statue of Lieutenant Hirose, who carried out the Port Arthur blockade operation during the Russo-Japanese War. I didn’t know he was from here. After the operation, the Japanese Navy, led by Commander Togo Heihachi, faced off against the Russian Baltic Fleet, which was said to be the most powerful fleet in the world at the time.
Finally, we had a special lunch (reservation needed in advance) at Okura Shimizuyu, a café that was once a bathhouse. Apparently, his parents own a vegetable shop next door, so they served us a variety of vegetable dishes. I couldn’t finish it all. They even served us matcha green tea.
taketa25 ohkura simizu public bath in the past
taketa26 restaurant now
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taketa28 restaurant managed bu vegitable shop
taketa30 lunch
taketa29 lunch
taketa32 remnants of public bath from upper floor
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taketa33 dessert
taketa35 fukujyuenn distilled spirits factory and shop
Our final stop was a barley shochu brewery in town, where we had the opportunity to try a variety of shochu while the proprietress was busy on her way to Tokyo to attend a wedding.
The village of Ubuyama, located on the outer rim of Mt. Aso, is a laid-back place. The outer rim area is made up of many alternating high hills and deep valleys, and once you enter a valley, it’s hard to tell where you are. There are countless water sources in these valleys. One of them,the Yamabuki Spring, has been selected as one of the 100 famous water sources in Kumamoto Prefecture, and gushes out 30 tons of water every minute. The way the green and autumn leaves of the trees are reflected on the clear water is beautiful.
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yamabuki water source1
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ubuyama village3 ohgi tanada (rice terrace)
Please note that navigation systems do not work this far, so you need to keep a close eye on the map. The terrain is so complex that it is difficult to know where you are once you enter the valley of the outer rim of the volcano. There are stacked fan-shaped rice terraces nearby, and you’ll want to take photos of the way they are filled with water before rice planting and the stars reflected in them at night.
ubuyama village4 cattle grazing
ubuyama village1 sobosan(grandmother mountain) and sea of clouds
ubuyama village2 aso mountains
ubuyama village5 cattle grazing
yamanami21 ranch near hotel
yamanami23 satoimo with a sticky texture
yamanami22 calf
There are also pastures everywhere. There were calves right in front of the Yamanami Inn, but I hope it wasn’t used as an ingredient in the barbecue at the inn last night. There is also a buffet with nearly 30 kinds of homemade pickles. I was impressed that even these things can be made into pickles. If you can’t finish rice, they will make it into rice balls for you to have as a midnight snack.
Mount Kuju is a place where you can enjoy a leisurely day of mountain hiking without having to stay overnight. However, here I would like to introduce a short 2-hour round trip trek to Mount Kuju, which shows off enough a variety of different faces, and the rewards that are well worth it.
climbing1 start from makinoto mountain pass
I would like to see the whole mountain covered in pink Kirishima Azalea flowers in May or June, but I have heard that the mountain gets congested. In the end, I end up just taking pictures of the line of climbers that stands out against the pink mountain. So this time, I went in late October to search for autumn leaves.
The easiest way to get to the summit is from Makinoto Pass along th road, which gives you the highest altitude possible as the starting point.
climbing2
climbing5 waita mountain like Mt.Fuji
climbing6 kutsukake mountain
climbing10 goal of kutsukake mountain
At first, the mountain trail is a long, gradual concrete slope that can be tiring. However, you can get past this point and head towards Mount Kutsukake.
climbing7 iida hights and yufudake over there
climbing9 aso mountains
Along the way, you can see Mt. Yufudake and the Aso mountain range, and at the end you can enjoy the autumn foliage of Mt. Hossho and Ohgigahana. I didn’t see anyone wearing high heels up here, but you can climb in normal shoes. The area around the summit of Mt. Kutsukake is full of rocks, but after that the trail continues along a gentle ridge. If you have the stamina and time, you can go a little further.
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climbing18 mitsumata mountain from kutsukake mountain
climbing19 hossho mountain and nishisenrigahama
climbing20 ohgigahana
chez tani
A detour or a reward (Sweets Restaurant)
Return to Makinoto Pass and head south, cross the pass and the Aso mountain range will come into view, and you will then see Chez Tani Senomoto-Kogen store. The view of the Aso mountain range from the full-length windows is a sight to behold, but the 90-minute cake buffet for 3,300 yen is a menu that will make you forget all about it – a menu that is sure to satisfy any desire. If you can’t do something like that, the 1500 yen 2 cakes set with drinks is enough. The cake portions are too big, so you forget to enjoy the view.
The entrance is located quite a way down the slope from the northern outer rim of Mt. Aso to the west. This gorge has an abundant amount of water and is deep, so the sun does not penetrate to the bottom of the gorge. That’s why the color of the pool is a deep blue and mysterious. The only time the light penetrates to the bottom of the gorge, illuminating the curtain of water vapor rising from the pool, is early in the morning in early summer, when the gorge is apparently occupied by many photographers.
kikuchi gorge3 reimei fall
kikuchi gorge2 kakefu fall
kikuchi gorge6
kikuchi gorge11
kikuchi gorge13
kikuchi gorge15 tree on the rock
kikuchi gorge18 hirokawara
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kikuchi gorge22
kikuchi gorge7
It’s a two-hour circular course that goes up and down and doesn’t have many ups and downs, but for some reason it takes longer than that. Perhaps it’s because you’re bathed in negative ions and there are a series of spectacular waterfalls and pools.
There are several observation decks on the outer rim of Mt. Aso. The most representative of these is Daikanbo, which juts out slightly into the caldera basin from within the outer rim, and from there you can see the Aso mountain range directly ahead from due north. However, it takes a little time to get to the top of the observation deck, including the walking time, and the Aso Skyline Observatory solves this problem. The observation deck is right on the side of the road. It is on the way to Kikuchi Gorge.
aso viewpoint1 left
aso viewpoint2 kuju
aso viewpoint3 somma
aso viewpoint4
aso viewpoint5 nekodake
aso viewpoint6 kusasennri
aso viewpoint7 somma
aso viewpoint8 right
aso viewpoint9 nirvana statueaso viewpoint10 kuju mountains on somma
Detour (Lunch time)
Going back a little to Minamioguni Town, in a really small basin surrounded by mountains, there is an apple mint herb garden and a natural food restaurant called “Kaze no Mori (Forest with wind).” I love the plate with colorful vegetables, so I always stop by here. You can enjoy a leisurely lunch while looking at the farm. The assortment of various herbs is a great deal.
The Yamanami Highway is a road that connects Yufuin to Aso, passing through the Kuju mountain range. The scenery overlooking the mountain range changes rapidly, and the road has moderate curves, so you can enjoy an exhilarating drive while listening to music. Along the way, stop at the observation deck where you can get a full view of Mt. Yufu-dake. Mt. Yufu-dake is also known as Bungo Fuji, and its summit is made up of two well-balanced peaks. Although it is different from the shape of Mount Fuji that is generally associated with it, the Mount Fuji as it is called in various regions is probably a mountain that constitutes a representative mental landscape of each region.
yamanami highway1
yamanami highway2 yufudake
yamanami highway3 mitumata mountain
yamanami highway4 evening sun on kuju mountain
Just because you’re not driving doesn’t mean you should fall asleep. This is a route where you should enjoy the beauty of mountain waves. It’s especially amazing to pass through the Kuju mountain range to the south and see the Aso mountain range in the sunset from the pass.
yamanami highway5 aso view left
yamanami highway6 aso view right
We descend the mountain and head towards my usual lodging, Kurokawa Onsen Sanga, as the silver grass sways and sparkles towards the sunset. I came here again looking forward to the food. I apologize for the photos being all about food. But every dish and its tableware is a work of art.
I wonder how to read this kanji of city name as Kitsuki. It is composed of the kanji characters for pestle, which is used to knead rice cakes, and construction, so it seems to be auspicious. Even more auspicious, this kanji is also used as part of the address of Izumo Taisha Shrine where The god of nation building is enshrined. There is a theory that the place name originated from a typo on a red seal letter (a document guaranteeing territory) given to feudal lords by the shogunate, but is this true?
kitsuki castle town13
Kitsuki is also said to be one of the Little Kyotos, but what exactly is a Little Kyoto? There is an organization called All Japan Kyoto Committee, which all cities across Japan that are considered Little Kyotos join, and the three requirements for membership are that a city have a landscape similar to Kyoto, historical ties, and traditional industries and performing arts. Onomichi City is also a member, but what is missing in Takehara City(*), which calls itself Little Kyoto and is close to Onomichi? Or is the membership fee too high? Or is Onomichi opposed to joining? I wonder if there are various adult reasons for a city like this to join. It seems like it’s very difficult for new members to join either the EU or NATO.
(*)After looking into it more closely, I found that Takehara City was a member but withdrew on its own, and Onomichi City has now also withdrawn. Is the name value of Little Kyoto no longer effective? This may be due to the diversification of tourism appeal.
kitsuki castle town1
kitsuki castle town2 salt house slope
kitsuki castle town3 vinegar house slope
kitsuki castle town10 fuji and reflecting fuji on th slope
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kitsuki castle town12 clan school
kitsuki castle town4 chief retainers house
kitsuki castle town5 samurai residence
kitsuki castle town14 church
Anyway, it seems like it’s popular to take photos on the slopes in kimono. There are a lot of kimono rental shops. It’s a quiet and nice town. The castle town of Kitsuki is made up of samurai residences built on two plateaus running east to west, and merchant houses on the lowlands surrounded by these plateaus. That’s why there are slopes everywhere. When you go up to one plateau, the other slopes seem to be right in front of you, so it makes a great picture. If you walk along the southern plateau to the eastern end, you will see Kitsuki Castle as if it is floating on the sea. This is also worth seeing.
nakayamasenkyo5 mumyo bridge and seto inland seanakayamasenkyo20
nakayamasenkyo yaba viewpoint1 left
nakayamasenkyo yaba viewpoint2 right
Although the elevation is only 300 metres, the tension of climbing up rocky terrain at such an incredible height is perhaps due to its steepness and the excellent views. Nakayama Senkyo is a place that tests your courage, with a series of chain sections, narrow stone bridges(Mumyo bridge) where stones support each other to cross valleys, and knife-edge saddles(Uma-no-se; horse back), and is not the kind of place you would casually go trekking.
nakayamasenkyo1 on the ridge
nakayamasenkyo2 boar numataba
nakayamasenkyo3 chain field to mumyokyo
nakayamasenkyo4 mumyo bridge
nakayamasenkyo6 buddha under the big rock
nakayamasenkyo7 thin ridge
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nakayamasenkyo9 chain field everywhere
nakayamasenkyo10 to the top of takasiro
nakayamasenkyo11 takasiro top
nakayamasenkyo12 buddha on the top
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The Ministry of the Environment calls it the Kunisaki Peninsula “Minemichi (Mountain road)” Long Trail and recommends it, but it is truly a training ground. I don’t recommend it on windy days. (On the other hand, the ”Michinoku” Coastal Trail, which was restored after the Great East Japan Earthquake, is recommended even on windy days.) However, once you reach the top, you can see the strangely shaped rocks and peaks, and beyond that the Seto Inland Sea. Jizo statues are watching over you from every angle.
nakayamasenkyo13 view left
nakayamasenkyo14 view center left
nakayamasenkyo15 view center right
nakayamasenkyo16 view right
Once you go ahead beyond the top, you’ll struggle to find the way down. There’s a hidden path to the rear left at a sharp angle, so if you miss it and go ahead, you’ll find yourself suddenly faced with a sheer cliff, losing track of your position and panicking. I almost panicked too, but I calmed down and walked back to the path, where I found the entrance to the descent, but it was a long downhill climb from here to the bottom.
nakayamasenkyo18 horse back
nakayamasenkyo19
nakayamasenkyo21 see back takashiro
nakayamasenkyo22 hard to find exit slope
nakayamasenkyo23 dead end of big buddha rock
nakayamasenkyo24 uto is an ascetic training ground
The circuit course starts from Reisenji Temple and takes at least two hours to complete.
Detour
Overlooking the rice fields of Tashibu-no-sho, once a manor in Kyoto, is a home-style restaurant called Shiki-sai, where it is a play on words between the four seasonal ingredients and color combinations. It is located exactly halfway between Nakayama Senkyo and Kitsuki old town.
4season3
4season1
I always drop by this restaurant because they serve elaborate dishes using unexpected ingredients, but it’s hard work because the owner does everything by herself. Even if you make a reservation, it’s better to contact her in advance to confirm.
I have rarely stayed in such a luxurious inn, Yakakutei. I would definitely recommend this place to foreign visitors who are taking advantage of the weak yen. The garden, surrounded by a cloister and covered with shrubs and moss, is beautifully maintained. A gazebo for viewing the garden faces the courtyard, but it is carved into a lower level than the courtyard, so that the moss garden can be viewed at eye level.
yakakutei garden1
yakakutei garden2
yakakutei garden3
yakakutei garden4
yakakutei garden5 see from one step down
yakakutei garden6garden6
yakakutei garden7
yakakutei garden8
yakakutei garden9
yakakutei garden10
yakakutei garden11
The rock bath hot spring is also located on a vast site, with rocks arranged like a garden, and the hot water is filled to the brim. Of particular note is the ingenious and creative menu for dinner. The plates on which the dishes are served are also excellent. Unusually, the appetizers (similar to an assorted antipasto in Italian cuisine) that usually precede the main dish are served last. Perhaps this is to avoid eating the appetizer too slowly and being too full by the time the main dish is served? The waiter was a man dressed as a butler in a crested hakama, which reminded me a bit of a male version of a maid cafe in Akihabara, and that was the only thing that felt a bit strange.
yakakutei7 dinner
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yakakutei18 apetit after main dish deliberately
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yakakutei32 breakfast
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yakakutei34-1 complete
yakakutei35 al dente of local brand rice
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Detour
If you climb the outer rim of the caldera behind the inn, you will soon arrive at Kagoshima Airport, but before checking in, it is worth stopping by Kareigawa Station, with its nostalgic wooden station building, Inukai Falls carved into the cliff, and Shiohitashi Onsen, where Sakamoto Ryoma and his wife, Oryo, were invited by the Satsuma clan to heal the wounds he received when he was nearly assassinated in Kyoto, and where he stopped on his honeymoon.
Black vinegar is made by taking full advantage of the sunny inner slope of the caldera’s outer rim and the blessings of the groundwater that springs from there. We often hear about black vinegar on health food programs and in commercials, but unless we come here we can’t truly understand that it is made inside the caldera, in a large number of jars. The jars are filled with koji, steamed rice, and groundwater, and multiple fermentations take place in parallel inside the sun-warmed jars.
black vinegar field2
black vinegar field5 rice and malt and groundwater from caldera
black vinegar field6 fermentation 3 steps
black vinegar field3
The view of the jars lined up on the slopes inside the caldera overlooking Sakurajima is spectacular, and there is also a heartwarming scene of sparrows flocking together to keep warm on the warm jars.
black vinegar field1 in front of Sakurajima island
Not only did you get to see the vinegar production area, but you also had the chance to try some health foods at a restaurant that uses black vinegar, and then finally, a souvenir corner. This is the usual flow of the tour. By the way, the longer you age the black vinegar, the less acidic it becomes and the smoother it tastes, but the price also increases in proportion to the aging years, so it’s all down to your wallet. However, the ingredients in the vinegar that enter your stomach are probably the same regardless of aging. From that day on, I started drinking black vinegar mixed with apple juice every morning for my health.
black vinegar lunch1
black vinegar lunch2
black vinegar lunch3
Detour
In addition to Kirishima Jingu(Shrine), there is another Jingu in Kirishima city, Kagoshima Jingu. “Jingu” is ranked higher than other shrines (>>read a hierarchy story on this blog). But why is Kagoshima Jingu in Kirishima City, when Kagoshima City is nearby? It is said that Sakurajima was called “Kagoshima” in the old days, and it is certainly true that the shrine faces due south towards Sakurajima. It also enshrines “Yamasachihiko,” the same deity as Aoshima Shrine in Miyazaki Prefecture.
kagoshima shrine10
kagoshima shrine1 sacred tree
kagoshima shrine4
kagoshima shrine5
kagoshima shrine6 ceiling painting
kagoshima shrine7
kagoshima shrine8 dragon
kagoshima shrine9
There is a real sacred horse at the entrance to the shrine, just like the one at Konpira Shrine in Shikoku. Most of them are horses that have been active in horse racing. In eastern Japan, fake horses are enshrined at the entrance, but in western Japan, most of them are real.
Kirishima Shrine was originally enshrined just below the top of Mount Takachiho, but it was burned down in an eruption and moved to the middle of the mountain. It was then burned down again in another eruption, and after learning its lesson, it was moved to its current location, much further down the mountain.
shrine moving map
You can drive up to Takachiho Kawara (Kawara is “Riverbank” in English but actually the meaning is a landscape with stones scattered all over the place, like those found on a riverbank. ), the shrine’s second moving location. There’s a short walk through shrubs covered with volcanic debris, but the altar stands alone in the desolate plain, completely silent, and is more charming than the current divine temple. The only regret is that parking fees are charged even though it’s a desolate, empty place. Since there aren’t many tourists or tour buses, it would be better if it was free.
former shrine2
former shrine1
former shrine5 shinnendake
former shrine4
The Kirishima mountain range continues to erupt, with Mt. Shinmoedake erupting recently and covering half of the mountain with black volcanic debris. Right next to the Ebino Highland Rest House where we took a break on the way, Mt. Iou was constantly spewing smoke, giving the impression of an active volcano.
ebino plateau1
ebino plateau2
ebino plateau3 iou mountain
For this reason, it is claimed that this is the right place where the heavenly grandson descended to earth. But on the other hand, it is claimed that a valley called Takachiho Gorge is the right place. So it would be great if the two sides could debate it thoroughly and come to a conclusion. Either way, it’s a world of mythology, so either way, it’s not the correct answer.
kirishima mountains2 takachihomine
takachiho canyon5 manai wate fall
The current Kirishima Shrine is built on a slope, so when viewed from the front it looks like a beautifully tiered platform decorated on Girls’ festival. Part of the shrine is a national treasure, and even though it cannot be seen from the outside, amulets commemorating the national treasure are sold there. Occasionally it seems that you can visit the inner sanctuary during special viewing days. But the admission fee is twice the price of the amulet.
kirishima shrine1
kirishima shrine3
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kirishima shrine6
kirishima shrine7 montain shrine1
kirishima shrine7 mountain shrine2 amulet divided into two
kirishima shrine7 moutain shrine3 the other amulet
kirishima shrine8
kirishima mountains1
Detour
“Aso” is unmistakably a caldera because of its perfect shape, and when you look around various regionsin Kyushu, you can find traces of caldera everywhere because they are all surrounded by outer rim mountains. One of them is the “Kakuto Caldera,” and when you climb up the Kirishima mountain range, you pass an observation deck (Shiratori) from which you can see how huge it is, which is comparable to Aso Caldera.
kakuto caldera1 left
kakuto caldera2 right
Previously, it was thought that whole of Kagoshima Bay was a caldera, and that Sakurajima was a volcano that formed in the center of the caldera, just like Aso. However, it seems that the entire Kagoshima Bay is not a single caldera, but that the Aira Caldera formed in the northern half of the bay, farther north than Sakurajima, and then Sakurajima formed on the edge of the caldera’s outer rim. It’s interesting to search for calderas in Kyushu.
