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Arched stone bridge created by God

stone bridge futamatabashi1

Each arched stone bridge in Kumamoto prefecture exists in exquisite balance with the weight of the thousands of stones that make up it, and the shape is beautiful.    It is said that there are approximately 320 existing stone bridges in Kumamoto, but why are there so many stone bridges in Kumamoto?    Many factors seem to have contributed to this, including the presence of easy-to-work welded tuff formed by the Aso pyroclastic flow nearby, the presence of a technical group of masons, and the fact that people who learned Western techniques in Nagasaki moved there.   There is also a story that the designer of stone bridge was even threatened with his life by other clans due to his high technical skills.    This stone bridge is the result of a divine work.    The steps involved creating an arch-shaped wooden frame according to the blueprint, fitting stones into it from above, and finally removing the wooden frame.

kintai bridge5
refer to kintai bridge

Around the same time, a huge wooden arch bridge was built in Iwakuni. This is Kintaikyo Bridge.

stone bridge tsujyunkyo1
stone bridge tsujyunkyo3 a little water
stone bridge tsujyunkyo2 Anna and the Beast
stone bridge tsujyunkyo behind “Anna and the Beast”

Anyway, the Midori River basin in southern Kumamoto Prefecture is full of stone bridges.  Some are stone bridges for people to cross valleys, but many are also used to carry waterways to irrigate higher ground.    A typical example is the Tsujun Bridge, but for some reason there is an object depicting “Beauty(Anna) and the Beast” in front of it.   Let’s visit your favorite stone bridge.    Depending on the time of day at Futamata bridge, light from the arch opening and light reflected on the river surface overlaps to form a heart shape.

stone bridge futamatabashi2
stone bridge futamata

Furthermore, in order to distribute the precious water carried by stone bridges to the fields, it is necessary to distribute the water equally in proportion to the cultivated area.   A mechanism for this purpose is a circular water diversion system, in which water rises from the center of the circle using a U-shaped pipe, spills into partitions set up along the circumference in proportion to the cultivated area, and is distributed in various directions.    You can see places where this device is still in use today.   You might read the same story at the travel note “Akita in winter”.  Forthermore, there is one in the metropolitan area as well as in Mizonokuchi in Kawasaki City.

circular divertsion1 distributing water according to the rice field
circular diversion2 divided water flows above the river

A detour

Mizutama (Polka dots) cafe, a cafe tucked away on top of a mountain.    A good place to relax and do nothing.    Aso can also be seen in the distance.

polka dots cafe2
polka dots cafe3
polka dots cafe4
polka dots cafe in yamato
polka dots cafe5 lunch
polka dots cafe6 lunch
polka dots cafe7 cheese cake
polka dots cafe8 aso
polka dots cafe10

It’s difficult to get here. Don’t overlook the small landmarks at junctions on narrow roads.   It seems that reservations are now required recently.

Another detour

Yuen railway octagon tunnel
Yuen railway octagon tunnel

At first glance it looks like an octagonal tunnel, but numerous so-called nut-like shapes are lined up along the cliff.    Although it is the remains of a former railroad (Yuen railway), it seems to be a preventative measure against landslides.    There seems to be a demonic realm ahead, but at the end of the tunnel is a　tranquil landscape.

Yuen railway after tunnel
Yuen railway after tunnel

 

 

 

 

 

 

aso statute of nirvana left
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Takachiho Gorge, the abode of the gods

amanoyasugawara2
takachiho canyon4 change directions of columnar joints
takachiho  gorge changing directions of columnar joints

The last major eruption of Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago was so large that volcanic ash fell over the entire Japanese archipelago.    That is why Aso still remains a beautiful caldera topography on that scale.     Pyroclastic flows covered the ground near Mt. Aso, and columnar joints created by the contraction of rocks due to the heat can be seen everywhere.    Takachiho Gorge, which is surprisingly close to Aso, has columnar joints that spread throughout the valley, and it is thought that it has been connected to mythology because it is a structure that does not seem to belong to this world.

takachiho canyon1 columnar joints
takachiho canyon2 3bridges
takachiho canyon3
takachiho canyon5 manai wate fall

When Japan was about to enter high economic growth, Takachiho Gorge, like the Nichinan Coast of Miyazaki Prefecture, was famous as a honeymoon destination.    Here I would like to talk about the place named Takachiho, which has been a question for some time.    Takachiho, as the Japanese character suggests, refers to rice cultivation in the highlands, but according to Japan’s oldest history book, the Kojiki, it also means the place where the gods descended to earth.    This is the so-called “the descent to earth of the grandson of the sun goddess.”    However, it seems that the question of whether the god descended first, Takachiho Gorge near Aso or Takachiho-mine (peak of mountain) in the Kirishima volcanic belt, is still unresolved.     It’s originally a myth, so I guess it’s not one or the other.    It’s just like Yamataikoku is undecided whether it’s Kinki or Kyushu (but the existance of this old　imperial court  is a historical fact).    In any case, the magnificent scenery of nature will make you feel the presence of God.     It may be the work of an old travel agency to attract tourists to Miyazaki Prefecture, which has inconvenient transportation (sorry).

However, as a real tourist destination, the sounds of rowing boats sailing through Takachiho Gorge and their collisions echoing within the canyon, which may be the voice of God grumbling.    I wonder why young couples jump on rowboats right away.     I am tempted to say that they should be satisfied with sailing at Chidorigafuchi or Shakujii Park in Tokyo.

Ama no Iwato Shrine: Riverbed of Ama no Yasukawara

amanoiwato shrine4
ama no iwato shrine entrance

A famous myth that the older sister’s god (God of the Sun), angry at her younger brother’s violent behavior, closed the rock door and shut herself in a cave, causing the world to become pitch black, and the gods gathered together to deliberate in order to open the rock door.    However, there is Ama no Iwato Shrine at the location of this rock door (you must apply for a prayer to see the rock door in front of you.), and Ama no Yasukawara Cave (this is free.) is located at the place where the council held the meeting.    It’s natural that the authenticity is questionable, but first of all, even in the world of gods, the younger brother should apologize to the older sister, and the gods are the ones who cannot resolve such matters without deliberating.    Furthermore, Takachiho is supposed to be the place where this sister’s grandchild landed on earth for the first time among the gods, but isn’t it strange that the rock door exists in this world?

amanoyasugawara1 meeting cave
amanoyasugawara3
amanoyasugawara4
amanoyasugawara5 salamander

When I was thinking about this, I couldn’t concentrate on sightseeing at all, and all I remember was the appearance of human faces on the surface of the trees on the left and right as I headed towards Ama no Iwato Shrine.

amanoiwato shrine3 face
amanoiwato shrine1
amanoiwato shrine2 face

aso statute of nirvana left
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A ray of light in the pouring rain in Aso

aso horse grazing

When traveling to enjoy the scenery, the weather is crucial.    The scenery shines with the reflection of light, and the wind with just the right amount of humidity makes you feel refreshed.    The sun is great!    But this time, it’s the complete opposite.    The rain was pouring down so hard that I couldn’t even step out of the car in Kusasenri, so I turned on the heater inside the car max to stay warm.

aso shelter
aso shelter

Still, the eruption alert level for Mt. Aso is at its lowest level, so this is a great opportunity to get up close.    As we braved the wind and rain, a shelter covered with thick concrete suddenly appeared in front of us.   I am reminded of the recent incident on Mt. Ontake in Kiso where climbers were caught in volcanic bombs.   Then, for a moment, an emerald blue volcanic lake could be seen through the gap between the clouds and volcanic smoke.    The weather was terrible, but it was an unforgettable sight, even though it was only for a short time.

aso crater2
aso crater1
aso crater3

After lunch at an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town, I went to Daikanbo, which has an observation deck for Aso mountain range, without high expectations.    Although the clouds were not clear, I could see the Aso mountain range, which has been compared to the reclining statue of Buddha, and the somma with deep valleys surrounding it.    It’s not all that the weather is bad.    It seemed like a ray of light was shining.

aso statute of nirvana left
aso statute of nirvana right
aso somma2 water vapor
aso somma4 burnt remains
aso somma1
aso somma3

Detour (an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town)

wind forest 2 café
wind forest 1
wind forest 3
wind forest 4 lunch plate
wind forest 5
wind forest 6 dessert
wind forest 7 terrace

Overnight at Kurokawa Onsen ”Sanga”

The garden is well-maintained while retaining the atmosphere of deep in the  mountain, but I was surprised to learn that it was all planted by hand.    I fell in love with the richness of the ingredients and the delicious taste, and now I stay here regularly.   It seems that all the accommodations in Kurokawa Onsen are wonderful, but I hope that the regular accommodations do not suffer from the negative effects of overtourism.

sanga1
sanga2
sanga3
sanga4 bath inner
sanga5 bath outer
sanga6 dinner mon appetit
sanga7 dinner
sanga8 dinner
sanga9 dinner
sanga10 dinner
sanga11 dinner
sanga12 dinner
sanga13 dinner
sanga14 dinner
sanga15 dinner
sanga16 dinner
sanga17 dinner merci
sanga18 morning walk
sanga19 morning walk
sanga20 morning walk
sanga21 morning walk
sanga22 breakfast
sanga23 breakfast
sanga24 breakfast

aso statute of nirvana left
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Midwinter night festival that you must see at least once, with fireworks going off overhead

fes15 firework

Arrive into Chichibu city early, visit Chichibu Shrine (be sure to check out the carvings and the parents’ warning signboard), and select the Chichibu meisen (silk fabric with an innovative design that was popular during the Taisho era).      Let’s simulate nighttime behavior.    If you don’t decide on your route back to the inn and the final time in advance, you won’t really be able to return the inn.

chichibu shrine1
chichibu shrine2
chichibu shrine3
chichibu shrine4
chichibu shrine5 chained dragon
chichibu shrine6 three monkeys with opposit action against those at Nikko-Toshogu
chichibu shrine8 lever
chichibu shrine7 knowledge of parents

“Kledge of paents”

>Don’t leave your skin unattended to babies

>Don’t leave your hands unattended to young children

>Don’t leave your eyes off your child

>Don’t leave your mind from young people

fes1
fes2
fes7 paris collection
fes8
fes9 waitig for kabuki
fes10 kabuki
fes11 kabuki wisteria daughter
fes12 old street of wholesaler
fes13 chichibu meisen
fes14

The operation plan for all the festival cars is open, just like a railway schedule, so you don’t have to worry about when and where they will change direction, where they will stop and stay, and when and where the children’s kabuki on the festival cars will be done.   If you want to see the festival cars with fireworks in the background in the middle of the night, be sure to read the schedule.

operation plan of festival cars
chichibu festival cars road map

A festival car does not have a steering wheel like a car, so it can only move in a straight line.    How do it change direction at crossroads?    There will be no forceful change of direction like one at the Kyoto Gion Festival does.    The method is to use a lever to raise it, attach a rotating shaft underneath it, and then change direction.   The work before and after rotation is a bit tedious.    On the other hand, when pulling straight, it is much rougher than the Kyoto.

fes3
fes4 lever
fes5 lever
fes6 lever for turn

In the middle of the night, as festival cars cross the railroad crossing befor going up Dango sloop, the railroad overhead wires are cut off for about two hours.    How bold!

preparation to remove overhead wire
dango sloop beyond the railway crossing
fes17 toward dango sloop

At the end, as all the festival cars line up at the Otabisho, the fireworks go off directly overhead, and you’ll be more overwhelmed by the huge sound than the gaiety of festival cars decorated with lights.    However, please note that seats inside the Otabisho are reserved in advance, and the fireworks are going off behind your head.

fes16
fes18
fes19 square of city hole and goal

There is only one free place in Chichibu Park where you can watch the festival cars panting up Dango sloop and the fireworks in the back, and you might feel  scared of crowd like sad accident at Soul during Halloween week.   If fireworks are important to you, give up on Otabisho, but anywhere along National Route 140 is the best place because you can see clearly and it’s right next to the launch site.

Steam locomotives run on holidays and special days

steam locomotive1 at bushu-hino station
steam locomotive2
steam locomotive3
souvenir shakushina with recipe

seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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A detour in late autumn, Heirinji Temple completely dyed in red.

heirin temple11
heirin temple6
heirin temple6

Hei-rin-ji Temple was named after the flat (“Hei” in Japanese) forest (“rin” in Japanese).    Friendly and easy to understand.   The entire vast precinct is colored with autumn leaves, and there is a walking path within the precinct.    If you go to the back, there are places where the leaves have not turned autumn yet, so you can enjoy the gradation.   But anyway, it’s hard to take a detour.    You have to take a bus from Hibarigaoka station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

 

heirinji temple walking map
heirin temple15 promnard of backyard
heirin temple1
heirin temple2
heirin temple3
heirin temple4
heirin temple5
heirin temple7
heirin temple8
heirin temple9
heirin temple10
heirin temple12
heirin temple13
heirin temple14
heirin temple17
heirin temple16
heirin temple18
heirin temple20
heirin temple19
heirin temple22
heirin temple21
heirin temple23

Hibarigaoka is a famous place that was developed as a mammoth housing complex to meet the demand for new families to live during the time when Japan’s population increased explosively due to the baby boom.   The housing complex is on the opposite side of the station from Heirinji Temple, but renovations have progressed and some of the former housing complexes are now being used as shops, one of which is a café that serves giant pancakes.    It’s baked after you order it, so please look forward to it.

hibarigaoka housing complex and cafe
cafe1 renovation of old appartment
cafe2
cafe3 comma cafe
cafe4 hotcake
cafe5
seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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Autumn Chichibu Golden Course, Nagatoro and Tsukinoishi Momiji Park

maple park6

Chichibu is a place where you can see that the ocean floor strata have sunk beneath the Japanese archipelago due to the mantle, and have come to the surface.   The limestone from Mt. Buko, which is still being scraped away, was a concrete material that supported Japan’s period of high economic growth, but it originally came from coral reefs in the Pacific Ocean.

nagatoro1
nagatoro rock tatami
nagatoro2 legs holding on
legs holding on crystalline schist

Nagatoro’s rock tatami is made of crystalline schist, which forms thin horizontal cracks (like puff pastry) when the pressure on the rock that was buried deep underground is released.

nagatoro3 left
nagatoro4 right
nagatoro6 left
nagatoro7 right
nagatoro9
nagatoro8
nagatoro5 rever rafting

“Tsukinoishi Momiji Park” is literally  translated in English to “moon stone and maple park.”   “Moon stone! ”   Does this indecates the first one collected by Apollo and  exhibited at the Osaka Expo 1970 ?    That’s what you could think.    It’s confusing because it’s said to have been named after the phrase “moon stone” that appears in a haiku written by a Meiji haiku poet.   Maple trees grow in clusters on the west bank of the Arakawa River that runs through Chichibu, so when you come up from the river, you can see the red leaves of the maple trees shining in the clear setting sun.

maple park2 stone on the moon
maple park1
maple park3
maple park4
maple park5
maple park7 kami-nagatoro station
nagatoro from bridge

seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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A detour in the middle of autumn: Marshal Togo in Koma Valley

togo park3 togo marshal

When you get off at Agano Station, you will see the station plaza, which is not very popular for sightseeing.    Following a group of energetic elderly people who have finished their warm-up exercise in front of the station, we follow the group up and down the narrow cliff-top path and mountain path along the railroad tracks until we arrive at the entrance to Togo Park.

seibu railway agano station
seibu railway walk along rail1
seibu railway walk along rail2
chichibu mitake shrine entrance
chichibu mitake shrine3 black cat
chichibu mitake shrine2 cosmos
togo park2
togo park2

Chichibu Mitake Shrine and Togo Park coexist there.    A little further up, you will see a blanket of bright autumn leaves surrounding the bronze statue of Marshal Togo.    From there, the autumn leaves continue all the way to the mountain.

togo park1
togo park1

 

 

 

 

Along the way, the actual deck of the battleship Mikasa, which was the flagship during the Russo-Japanese War, is on display, with many holes punched by cannonballs.    This is also the shrine that deified Mr. Togo Heihachiro, who defeated the Russian fleet.

togo park4 deck of battleship Mikasa in Japan-Russia war

At the top of the stone steps, you will reach the main hall of the shrine, but it can be flinching to climb up such a steep slope.    You can enjoy the autumn leaves without even climbing.    I have never seen a mountain so bright red during the autumn leaves.

togo park6
togo park5
togo park7 long stairs
togo park8 chichibu mitake shrine
togo park8 view
togo park9
togo park10
togo park11

By the way, there are many names of places near the mountains of Saitama Prefecture that are reminiscent of Korea.    It is said to have originated during the Nara period in Japan, when people who fled from Goguryeo, which had been destroyed by the Tang Dynasty, were given a place to settle from the goverment.    This kind of history is not learned in Japanese history.    There has been a lot of exchange with the mainland since ancient times.

(*)There is a road that goes into the mountain along the railway from the Agano mining site.  Believe in yourself and move on.

Goal to Chichibu (detail of Soba restaurant “Nagomi”)

The only way to get to Nagomi is to walk 20 minutes along a mountain path from Bushu Hino Station on the Chichibu Railway.    However, it is a soba restaurant that is worth the walk.    The restaurant serves only 50 meals a day, and for the first meal, the owner gets to sample the finished product.   On the way, I don’t think I’m the only one who gets surprised when someone calls out to me, “It’s dangerous,” when I cross an unmanned railroad crossing.    Who is that voice?

chichibu railway Bushu-hino station
chichibu railway animetion train
chichibu railway someone calls at rail crossing
chichibu railway
soba at nagomi bushu-hino2
soba at nagomi bushu-hino1
soba at nagomi bird
soba at nagomi waiting
soba at nagomi soba
soba at nagomi sesame tofu
soba at nagomi soul food potato
soba at nagomi soba seed icecream
soba at nagomi

 

seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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Early summer detour to lavender fields and Little Kyoto

ranzan2

Arashiyama is a famous tourist destination in Kyoto.    However, the place name “Ranzan”, which is pronounced in original Chinese reading but written the same character, is said to have originated from a famous scholar who tweeted that it was Musashi-Arashiyama.   I haven’t walked all the way to Ranzan Valley, so I don’t know what it feels like, but there are lavender fields just before the valley.

ranzan1
ranzan3
ranzan5
ranzan4
ranzan7
sunflower from the stand
sunflower from the stand

It is common for high stands to be set up on the field to create a photo spot for Instagram photos (often seen in sunflower fields), but the real cultivated land is surprisingly small.   If you are in the Provence region of France, the field will fill your field of vision, but since the petals of lavender are small, it is difficult to take pictures that fill the screen with lavender.   The shoot ends early, and the lavender stick making process, which takes place in a tent that blocks the sun, takes just 30 minutes, making it a reasonable time option in the hot early summer weather.

ranzan8 lavender stick
ranzan9 lavender stick
ranzan10 lavender stick

Ogawa Town is a member of the National Kyoto Conference, so it calls itself Little Kyoto.    The history of handmadeJapanese paper, Washi continues, and the brand Hosokawa paper is registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.    Many historic buildings remain, and the town is just the right size to get around by renting a bicycle in front of the station.

ogawa town1 old stone storehouse NESTo
ogawa town2
ogawa town3 co-workspace inside
ogawa town12
ogawa town13
ogawa town14
ogawa town17
ogawa town18
ogawa town15 left
ogawa town16 right
Japanese paper as label of sake
Japanese paper as label of sake

If you go a little further by bicycle, there is a sake brewery which brews delicious sakes, Mikado-matsu, and you can also tour it’s inside.    Knowing that the label on this sake bottle is made from Washi paper from Ogawa Town is proof that you are well versed in the culture of this town.    Enjoy the rice malt dishes and desserts made with Daiginjo at the attached restaurant.

 

 

sake brewery3
sake brewery4 hard water without iron for sake preparation from 130m underground
sake brewery1 mikado-matsu
sake brewery2 press machine for sakekasu
ogawa town4 restarant shofu-an
ogawa town5
ogawa town6 garden
ogawa town7 lunch
ogawa town8 lunch
ogawa town9 dessert
ogawa town10 dessert
ogawa town11 dessert

Goal to Chichibu (Usual inn and soba restaurant)

chichibu railway at bushu-hino station
kayanoki1
kayanoki2
kayanoki3
kayanoki dinner1
kayanoki dinner2
kayanoki dinner3
kayanoki dinner4
kayanoki dinner5
kayanoki dinner6
kayanoki dinner7
kayanoki dinner8
kayanoki dinner9
kayanoki dinner10
kayanoki dinner11
kayanoki dinner12
kayanoki1 entrance
kayanoki2 reception big oak tree
kayanoki3 soft hotspring
kayanoki4
soba at nagomi another time
seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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Onikobe in late autumn looks like something strange is going on

naruko gorge late autumn (1)

The literal translation of the Japanese word Onikobe into English is the head of a demon.   The name Onikobe comes from a legend that during the Heian period, the heads of powerful people from the Tohoku region conquered by Sakanoue Tamuramaro were flown to this area.    A little further back from Naruko Dam is Onikobe Hotspring, which is famous for its geysers.

naruko dam (2)
naruko dam (1)

Hell valley is nearby, but I’ve never seen many tourists on it, and it’s a wild trail with geysers all over the promenade that erupt out of too hot water as you walk.    There is a puddle of hot water in the middle that continues to bubble up, so if you put a raw egg in there and pick it up on the way home, you’ll end up with perfectly soft-boiled eggs.    If you don’t prepare a spoon or chopsticks in advance, the boiled eggs that cannot be removed will end up becoming manure in the fields.

hell valley (5) before geyser
hell valley (6) caution with arrow
hell valley (7)geyser
hell valley (1)
hell valley (2) scared
hell valley (3)
hell valley (4)
hell valley (8)
hell valley (9) eggs boiled
hell valley (10)

Detour 1

Naruko Gorge in late autumn, a month after the peak of its autumn leaves, has a dry look.    The deep cliffs of the gorge give it an even more rugged look.

naruko gorge late autumn (2)
naruko gorge late autumn (3)
naruko gorge late autumn (4)

Detour 2

Iwadeyama was once the stronghold of the Sendai Date family, and its descendants established an academic school called Yubikan. There is a wonderful garden with Iwadeyama Castle in the background.

yubitei in iwadoyama (1)
yubitei in iwadoyama (2)
yubitei in iwadoyama (3)
yubitei in iwadoyama (4)
yubitei in iwadoyama (5) castle in the background
yubitei in iwadoyama (6)
yubitei in iwadoyama (7)
yubitei in iwadoyama (8)
yubitei in iwadoyama (9)
yubitei in iwadoyama (10)

Detour of Detour

A balloon festival is held in late November mainly on the riverbank at Iwadeyama.   In short, there are no obstacles around, the wind is good, and the crops on the large cultivated land have finished harvesting, so this is the time.  There are events where you can ride a balloon moored and see it from above for free.    However, only 150 numbered tickets will be distributed in the early hours of the morning, so you will need a lot of guts.    Moreover, tickets are only given out to people who lined up to get numbered tickets, so even if you line up alone, you won’t get a ticket for your family.    If you bring children, it’s a good opportunity to test their mettle, but if the weather is bad, you should be prepared for the fact that the numbered tickets will only serve as souvenirs.

ballon festa on riverside
ballon festa souvnir ticket
soba at momiji-no (1)
soba at momiji-no (2)
soba at momiji-no (3)

not just naruko cover photo
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Naruko Gorge, Autumn leaves like a picture on a folding screen

naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (1) panoramic view
naruko gorge from train (1)
naruko gorge from train (1)

For backpackers coming from Sendai, I recommend getting off at the next station, Nakayama-daira Onsen, instead of Naruko Onsen Station (2.5 hours by JR from Sendai).  The reason for this is that you can briefly glimpse the core of Naruko Gorge that you are about to see between the tunnels passing through the gorge, and the walk from the station to Naruko Gorge is short (about 30 minutes) and there is a flat footpath.

naruko gorge from train (2)
naruko gorge from train (2)

However, as soon as you get off the train, you’ll see a quiet village that makes you wonder if you’ve made a mistake.  On the way to Naruko Gorge, you can see the steam rising from the hot spring village where the hot springs are gentle on the skin. You can stop by on your way home.

walk from nakayamadaira station (1) hotspring
walk from nakayamadaira station (2)
walk from nakayamadaira station (3)
walk from nakayamadaira station (4)
walk from nakayamadaira station (5)
walk from nakayamadaira station (6)

Naruko Gorge suddenly appears at the end of the pine forest. When viewed from the top of a steep cliff, it looks like a series of folding screens of autumn leaves.

not just naruko cover photo
naruko gorge view point (1) left
naruko gorge view point (2) center
naruko gorge view point (3) right
naruko gorge upper (4)
naruko gorge upper (3)
naruko gorge upper (5)
naruko gorge upper (6)
naruko gorge upper (2) train
naruko gorge upper (2) train

In the gorge at the bottom right, you can clearly see the railroad tracks that the train passed through earlier.  Many photographers are ready to take pictures of the train coming out of the tunnel exit on the cliff covered in autumn leaves.

 

Feeling depressed about the prospect of climbing back up, I descended from the steep cliff for 15 minutes and arrived at the deepest part of the gorge surrounded by cliffs covered in autumn leaves (Kaiko Bridge).

naruko gorge deepest part (9)
naruko gorge deepest part (1)
naruko gorge deepest part (2)
naruko gorge deepest part (3)
naruko gorge deepest part (4)
naruko gorge deepest part (5)
naruko gorge deepest part (6)
naruko gorge deepest part (7)
naruko gorge deepest part (8)
naruko gorge deepest part (10)
naruko gorge deepest part (11)
naruko gorge deepest part (12)

Returning to the top of the cliff, you can see the deep meandering of the Otani River, which created Naruko Gorge, from the midway point of Ohfukasawa Bridge, which is located directly above the Kaiko Bridge.

naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (1) panoramic view
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (2) left
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (3) left
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (4)
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (6)
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (7)
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (8) directly below
naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (9) right

Beyond that bridge is the entrance to a quiet road that Edo period haiku poet Matsuo Basho wrote about in his travelogue on Oku no Hosomichi (about 45 minutes on the Ohfukasawa Promenade).    There is “Shitomae barrier for defense” nearby.

ohfukasawa promenade (1)
ohfukasawa promenade (2)
ohfukasawa promenade (3)
ohfukasawa promenade (4)
ohfukasawa promenade (5)
ohfukasawa promenade (6)
ohfukasawa promenade (7)
ohfukasawa promenade (8)
ohfukasawa promenade (9)
ohfukasawa promenade (10)
ohfukasawa promenade (11)
ohfukasawa promenade (12)
ohfukasawa promenade (13)
ohfukasawa promenade (14)
ohfukasawa promenade (15)
ohfukasawa promenade (16)

 

“Shitomae barrier for defense”

The literal translation of the Japanese word naruko into English is a crying child.   There is a theory that Naruko was named after the cry of a child that Minamoto no Yoshitsune’s wife gave birth to while he was on his way to Hiraizumi, and that the place was named “Shitomae barrier for defense”  because the child urinated there for the first time.

Basho is said to have been suspicious of this barrier official when he was leaving for Yamagata, and he also wrote a poem in which he woke up to a horse urinating on his bedside in the stable of a private house where he was staying in the constant rain.    However, it is said that this is just an exaggeration since they probably won’t be able to sleep in the stables.   When I read that haiku for the first time, I believed it with all my heart.

       “Plagued by fleas and lice,

                             I hear the horses urinating              

                                                                   Right by my pillow”

naruko gorge map

 

 

not just naruko cover photo
go bak to itinerary