Yabakei is an old volcanic plateau that has been transformed into a series of strangely shaped rocks due to erosion. There are places called this way all over the country (For example: Dakikaeri Gorge in Akita Prefecture), but they are concentrated in the northern part of Oita Prefecture. When Yukichi Fukuzawa, an enlightenment thinker and educator from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period and a founder of Keio University, learned that one of these, his hometown of Kyoshuhou, was going to be sold, he apparently bought the land and protected it without using his name. It was the forerunner of the National Trust movement in Japan.
yabakei kyoshuho1 left
yabakei kyoshuho2 center
yabakei kyoshuho3 right
In addition, the priest of Rakan-ji Temple (Arhat Temple), whose temple complex clings to a gigantic rock wall, spent 30 years digging a hand-dug tunnel called the Ao-no-domon to enable people to safely pass through the difficult access points of this Yabakei to worship. This cave is located at the foot of Kyoshuhou.
yabakei blue tunnel2
yabakei blue tunnel3 hand digging
yabakei blue tunnel1
The writer Kan Kikuchi was inspired by this real story and created a masterpiece called “Beyond the Enemy.” The main character learns that the person he has found to avenge himself is actually a priest who is excavating the tunnel, but in order to achieve revenge as soon as possible, he helps dig the tunnel together, and when it opens, he abandons his desire for revenge. This is the synopsis of his novel. That’s why the title of the work is “Beyond the Enemy.”
By the way, the true story is that after the tunnel opened, Ao-no-Domon became the first toll road in Japan to collect tolls, but the money was used to pay for the construction costs of hiring masons, so it can’t be helped. The chisel and mallet used for hand digging are displayed in the hall next to the entrance to the chair lift that takes you up to Arhat Temple, so don’t miss them.
arhat temple1 entrance
arhat temple2
arhat temple3 real chisel and hammer for digging tunnel
arhat temple4 top of mountain
arhat temple5 using chair lift
arhat temple6
arhat temple8 thousand jizos
arhat temple9
arhat temple11 clouds
arhat temple13
arhat temple15
arhat temple16
arhat temple19 five hundreds arhats
arhat temple18 rice scoops save lives
I think Arhat Temple was also built so that it clings to a rock wall like that. If that’s the case, I wonder if it would have been better to build the temple in a safer place, without the need for tunnels, from the beginning. If that happens, all the good stories I’ve introduced here will be lost. In any case, there is something about Yabakei that moves people’s hearts.
Usa Shrine is the grandmaster of all Hachiman Shrines. Do you understand that there is a hierarchy in shrines, just like in human society?
It is said that there are eight million gods in Japan, and people believe that there are gods everywhere. Depending on the deity enshrined, shrines can be classified into 30,000 Inari shrines for business, 40,000 Hachiman shrines for military fortune, 12,000 Tenjin shrines for academics, and 25,000 Suwa shrines for agricultural irrigation.
Hachiman was originally an indigenous god worshiped by the local Usa clan, but it seems that he became the god of military luck after being told by the gods that he was the incarnation of Emperor Ojin, a master of archery. At Hachiman Shrine, there is a ritual called Hojo-e where living things are released into nature. Samurai (warrior) are destined to kill life, but Buddhism forbids killing. It is said that these contradictory concepts were fused on the Kunisaki Peninsula, resulting in a syncretization of Shinto and Buddhism.
Usa Jingu is the grandmaster of the Hachiman deity, and is positioned to bring together other shrines such as Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto and Tsurugaoka Hachiman Shrine in Kamakura. I think it would be interesting to visit the shrines while understanding their connections. The shape of the main building of the shrine is called Hachiman-zukuri(style) and is similar to each other.
usa gingu nanchu romon
iwashimizu hachiman gu
kamakura hachiman gu
Left: Usa /Center: Iwashimizu(Kyoto) /Right: Tsurugaoka(Kamakura)
worship method: 2bows, 4applause and 1bow again
However, when it comes to etiquette when visiting shrines, at most shrines you bow twice, clap twice and lastly bow once again, but at Usa Shrine you bow twice, clap four times and lastly bow once again. Even so, the grounds of Usa Shrine are too vast like U.S.A.
The Kunisaki Peninsula is a group of former volcanoes that jut out into the Seto Inland Sea in a generally conical shape. Because it is an old volcano, it has been eroded along a conical shape, with deep valleys radiating out to the sea. A Buddhist culture was formed by incorporating Japan’s ancient Shinto religion (the Hachiman faith at Usa Shrine) into Buddhism (Tendai sect), which was introduced from the continent, and training was carried out by walking on the harsh peaks of a group of former volcanoes that stood out in deep valleys.
uji byodo-in, the same national treasure
Fukiji Temple is an Amida Hall (national treasure), along with Uji’s Byodo-in Phoenix Hall and Hiraizumi Chuson-ji Konjiki Hall, and is the oldest wooden building in Kyushu, with its sloping roof evoking elegance. According to a local guide, it was a playground when he was little, so it was a luxury. Not only are the precious Buddhist paintings inside the temple fading due to exposure to ultraviolet rays, but the security is not at all worthy of being considered a national treasure, but is rather non-vigilant, making it hard to believe that it is one of the three major Amida temples. A statue of Amida Nyorai is carved out of a Japanese oak tree.
kunisaki fuki temple1
kunisaki fuki temple3
kunisaki fuki temple2 black cat
kunisaki fuki temple4 amidadou
kunisaki fuki temple6 kaya with antiseptic effect
There is also a temple called Magi-Ohdo nearby, where many simple Buddhist statues remain. There are so many temples and large Buddha statues carved into cliffs that you will have to stay for several days to see them all over the place.
kunisaki scarecrows to increase population of depopulated village
Detour (Four seasons’ vegitable restaurant)
There is a home-cooked restaurant called Shikisai (Four seasons’ vegitable restaurant directly translated in English) in a place overlooking a rice field called Tashibu-no-sho, which was the manor of Usa Jingu Shrine during the Heian period. During the rice planting season, you can see the beautiful green terraced rice fields. This was my first visit, but they serve elaborate dishes made with unexpected ingredients. I want to stop by also next time.
Before the shuttle bus group arrives, take a lecture at the Brown Bear Information Center about how to climb the mountain. The important thing is to know what to do to avoid encountering a bear, and I have hardly ever thought about what to do in case I do come across one. Even if you wear a bear bell, it will be drowned out by the sound of the river around the stream. If you are a certain distance away from a bear you encounter, you will back away while looking into the bear’s eyes, and if you are attacked at close range, you will protect your neck with your hands under your backpack, but what would you do if your hands were bitten by bear? All you can do is decide not to think about encountering such a thing. The exit from the center is also on your way home, so make a donation or buy some goods from the center to show your appreciation for the safety efforts.
brown bear info center
brown bear info center explanation of precautions
Now it’s time to tour the swamp. One circuit clockwise takes 5 hours, but the second half is downhill so you will need some climbing equipment. If you turn back at Kogen-numa(swamp) just before the deepest Sora-numa, you won’t need any mountaineering equipment and can return in 4 hours round trip. If you look at the map, you can see that this is a place where the mountain collapsed and created swamps, but it is a fairly long mountain trail and should not be considered a hike. It is better to at least wear mudguard spats on your foot.
Source Excerpt from the Ministry of the Environment website
(Source: Excerpt from the Ministry of the Environment website)
Final descending time for each of the three major swamps is announced, and instructors are always on standby there regardless of the weather. I felt that it was hard work for the instructors to call out to every climber, but since they were standing all the time without even ringing a bear bell, so I thought that calling out to them was also a measure against bears. (I’m sorry.) Early morning and evening are prime times for bears to be seen.
red demon will catch you
At this time of final descent, few people will associate it with the red demon of the Mt. Rokko traversal competition (Kobe City). I once participated in a competition where I ran 48 km of Mt. Rokko from Suma to Takarazuka in one day. A red demon will chase you from the last place, and at each checkpoint it will display how many minutes it will take to arrive, and if you are overtaken by this, you will be told that the race is over and you will not be able to complete the race. Furthermore, when you finish the race, you will receive a small shield to prove your completion. The next day, my body was in shambles.
Now, go back to the tour. For the first hour, you walk through wetlands dotted with skunk cabbage that looks like it’s been devoured by bears,
to dohyo-numa (1) skunk cabbage eaten by bear
to dohyo-numa (1)
to dohyo-numa (2)
to dohyo-numa (5) surveillance camera for bear
to dohyo-numa (6) bear feces
to dohyo-numa (8) yanbe tappu stream
to dohyo-numa (9) yanbe tappu stream
to dohyo-numa (11) caution for bear
to dohyo-numa (12)
If you’re lucky, you might be able to spot the brightly colored wild bird, the Ginzanmashiko,
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (2)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (3)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (4)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (5)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (6)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (7)
to dohyo-numa Ginzanmashiko (8)
dohyo-numa
basho-numa
And then you arrive at Takimi-numa. There are many temples in Kyoto with wonderful gardens, but Takimi-numa surpasses them in its ultimate natural beauty. The exquisite balance between the close-up view of the swamp and the distant view of the colorful autumn leaves arranged like a folding screen on the slope is out of this world. You can enjoy it on both sunny and even rainy days.
takimi-numa 2
takimi-numa (1)
takimi-numa (3)foggy
takimi-numa (4)foggy
takimi-numa (2) foggy
Midori-numa, which appears next to Takimi-numa, has an open landscape and is one of swamps with final decending time set. Each swamp has a completely different look.
midori-numa
midori-numa (2)
midori-numa (8)
midori-numa (10)Please bring your own toilet waste container
midori to yuno (1)bear feces
midori to yuno (2)wooden path materials
midori to yuno (3)
midori to yuno (4)small river crossing
midori to yuno (5)
midori to yuno (6)
yuno-numa
kamo-numa
After a while along the mountain trail, you will come to Ezo-numa. It appears to be a swamp formed like a terraced rice field at the edge of a slope, but the end of the break in the trees in the middle seems to be a waterfall over there, and the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is nothing short of beautiful.
ezo-numa (1)
ezo-numa (2)left
ezo-numa (3)left-center
ezo-numa (4)center-right
ezo-numa (5)right
When you walk further, you will see the cliffs of Takanegahara and Shikibu-numa where the reflection of the autumn leaves on the water’s surface is also beautiful.
ezo to shikibu (2)
shikibu-numa (1)left
shikibu-numa (2)center
shikibu-numa (3)right
As you climb further, Daigaku-numa appears at the foot of the cliff.
daigaku-numa (0)
daigaku-numa (1)
daigaku-numa (2)
The turning point, Kogen-numa, will be just around the corner. If the weather is good, you can see Mt. Midoridake over there look like the mountain is wrapped in red sashes of autumn leaves. Time is up here. Before I knew it, the light rain had gotten heavier, so I turned back.
kogen-numa
return point (2)
return point (1)
return point (3) looking over at daigaku-numa
return point (4)
go back to midori-numa
daisetsu kogen onsen ramen after swamp tour
It took about 5 hours round trip as I went slowly. After eating up some warm ramen at an inn in Daisetsu Kogen Onsen, I headed straight to New Chitose Airport. There was no time to stop by to see the Sounkyo waterfall. The road along the way is covered in terrain full of columnar joints.
First, write your name in the climbing record book at the management office at the entrance to the mountain trail. It takes about 15 minutes to reach the ridgeline, so you just keep going up the mountain trail with no views until then.
ginsendai 1 entrance
ginsendai 2
Once you reach the ridgeline, there are a series of spectacular views. A brocade of autumn leaves spreads across the huge flat slope.
ginsendai 4
ginsendai 5 forcus
Don’t be satisfied here, let’s at least go to Daiichi Hanazono (First Flower Garden). It’s less than an hour from the parking lot. The view of the sea of trees below is amazing from here, and you’ll want to dive with your whole body.
ginsendai 6 left
ginsendai 7 center
ginsendai 8 right
ginsendai 10
ginsendai 11
ginsendai 12
ginsendai 13 left
ginsendai 14 right
A little further ahead is a rocky area where pikas live. It is a small animal of the lagomorph family that survived the Ice Age and physically resembles a mouse. Listen carefully and look in the direction of the sound. They move quickly, and the bottom of the rocky area is a passage for pikas, so you can see their faces from various angles. This is also cute. There is a regular photographer with a telephoto lens, so it’s a good idea to ask him/her about various things.
From the Amakusa Islands, Mount Unzen on the Shimabara Peninsula can be seen nearby, and many wild dolphins live here where the Ariake Sea exits into the East China Sea. In any case, as soon as we set out on our fishing boat, the dolphins started chasing us as if they were enjoying the competition. Several of them work together to blow the tide and pass under the bottom of the ship. It’s like a messenger of peace.
Although it is advertised as a sightseeing boat for viewing dolphins, the hull is essentially a fishing boat. The price includes lunch. I was wondering to myself what would happen if I ate it, got on board, and got seasick.
dolphin watching1 almost fisher boat
dolphin watching2
dolphin watching5
dolphin watching3
A detour
As you head north along the west coast of the island from Sakitsu Church, you will see “Myoken-ura”, a sea cliff shaped like an elephant, “Tits Rock”, which is difficult to take photos with women, and a lighthouse floating off the coast that looks like “the Statue of Liberty”. In Amakusa City, you can buy Amakusa pottery “Kohiki” that was introduced from Korea, and Gion Bridge, which is a stone bridge but has multiple girders lined up instead of arches, is a must-see.”
myokenura1
myokenura2 elephant
amakusa beach3 tits rock
amakusa beach4 statue of liberty
amakusa beach1
gionbashi1 amakusa
gionbashi3 the top
asanijigama2 gallery
Another detour
At the tip of the Misumi Peninsula, where the bridge to the Amakusa Islands crosses, there is a stone wharf called Misumi Nishi Port that remains from the Meiji period, and has been designated as a World Cultural Heritage Site. If you have time, it’s a place where you can relax.
The colonial policy hidden behind the sale of Christian missionary work and trade as a set terrified the Edo shogunate, and with the isolation of the country, Christians fell prey to the banning policy. Shortly after the establishment of the shogunate, there was a large-scale battle to suppress Christianity (the Shimabara Rebellion), and the victorious shogunate suffered heavy losses, and many Christian farmers in the region died or were dispersed. As a result, they were unable to harvest any crops at all. Even so, there were still many Christians remaining in Amakusa and Shimabara. It is said that 90% of the people in the town of Sakitsu were Christians, and since they all survived as they were, it seems that even if they were hidden Christians, it was an open secret.
sakitsu 15 suwa shrine hiding christians
sakitsu 13 fisherman’s workspace
sakitsu 13
The villagers who were accused of being Christians claimed to believe in a local deity inherited from their ancestors, while Shogunate officials, fearing a repeat of the Shimabara Rebellion that had endangered the Shogunate and the subsequent sharp decline in the agricultural population, denied the truth and did not disclose it publicly.
ohe-tenshudo
Perhaps it was wisdom that determined that the villagers had a “misunderstanding of the sect” (they did not believe in Christianity, but that he believed in the wrong religion without realizing it was a mistake) and did not certify them as Christians. I am impressed that there were officials with such good sense at that time. There are many churches in the Amakusa Islands. Many believers still maintain their faith.
Sakitsu downtown is a part of World Heritage “Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region”, although not in the Nagasaki Region.
sakitsu 9 70% of population is hidden Christian
sakitsu 8 downtown
sakitsu church2
sakitsu church3
sakitsu church4
sakitsu church5 backside made of wood due to money short
sakitsu church6 altaar on the former place where to have hidden Christian step on a picture of Christ
sakitsu church7 Japanese style tatami inside
sakitsu 10 sweets shop
sakitsu 12 sweets
sakitsu 11 sweets
sakitsu 14
On the way to the Amakusa islands
Mt.Unzen on the way to Amakusa islands
You can reach the Amakusa Islands by crossing a number of beautiful bridges from the Misumi Peninsula. On the way, you can clearly see the Shimabara Peninsula and Mt. Unzen across the Ariake Sea. However, driving while looking away is prohibited.
go to amakusa islands1 yatsushiro sea
go to amakusa islands2
go to amakusa islands3
go to amakusa islands4
go to amakusa islands5
Cave hot spring inn Yurakutei (Yumigahama beach in Ohyano island)
Guests are welcomed by writing their names on the sake jar at the entrance of the inn. The owner has dug a cave by hand and you can enjoy hot springs inside it. Anyway, for dinner there will be more fish dishes caught in the Ariake Sea than you can finish.
Each arched stone bridge in Kumamoto prefecture exists in exquisite balance with the weight of the thousands of stones that make up it, and the shape is beautiful. It is said that there are approximately 320 existing stone bridges in Kumamoto, but why are there so many stone bridges in Kumamoto? Many factors seem to have contributed to this, including the presence of easy-to-work welded tuff formed by the Aso pyroclastic flow nearby, the presence of a technical group of masons, and the fact that people who learned Western techniques in Nagasaki moved there. There is also a story that the designer of stone bridge was even threatened with his life by other clans due to his high technical skills. This stone bridge is the result of a divine work. The steps involved creating an arch-shaped wooden frame according to the blueprint, fitting stones into it from above, and finally removing the wooden frame.
refer to kintai bridge
Around the same time, a huge wooden arch bridge was built in Iwakuni. This is Kintaikyo Bridge.
stone bridge tsujyunkyo1
stone bridge tsujyunkyo3 a little water
stone bridge tsujyunkyo behind “Anna and the Beast”
Anyway, the Midori River basin in southern Kumamoto Prefecture is full of stone bridges. Some are stone bridges for people to cross valleys, but many are also used to carry waterways to irrigate higher ground. A typical example is the Tsujun Bridge, but for some reason there is an object depicting “Beauty(Anna) and the Beast” in front of it. Let’s visit your favorite stone bridge. Depending on the time of day at Futamata bridge, light from the arch opening and light reflected on the river surface overlaps to form a heart shape.
stone bridge futamata
Furthermore, in order to distribute the precious water carried by stone bridges to the fields, it is necessary to distribute the water equally in proportion to the cultivated area. A mechanism for this purpose is a circular water diversion system, in which water rises from the center of the circle using a U-shaped pipe, spills into partitions set up along the circumference in proportion to the cultivated area, and is distributed in various directions. You can see places where this device is still in use today. You might read the same story at the travel note “Akita in winter”. Forthermore, there is one in the metropolitan area as well as in Mizonokuchi in Kawasaki City.
circular divertsion1 distributing water according to the rice field
circular diversion2 divided water flows above the river
A detour
Mizutama (Polka dots) cafe, a cafe tucked away on top of a mountain. A good place to relax and do nothing. Aso can also be seen in the distance.
polka dots cafe2
polka dots cafe3
polka dots cafe4
polka dots cafe in yamato
polka dots cafe5 lunch
polka dots cafe6 lunch
polka dots cafe7 cheese cake
polka dots cafe8 aso
polka dots cafe10
It’s difficult to get here. Don’t overlook the small landmarks at junctions on narrow roads. It seems that reservations are now required recently.
Another detour
Yuen railway octagon tunnel
At first glance it looks like an octagonal tunnel, but numerous so-called nut-like shapes are lined up along the cliff. Although it is the remains of a former railroad (Yuen railway), it seems to be a preventative measure against landslides. There seems to be a demonic realm ahead, but at the end of the tunnel is a tranquil landscape.
takachiho gorge changing directions of columnar joints
The last major eruption of Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago was so large that volcanic ash fell over the entire Japanese archipelago. That is why Aso still remains a beautiful caldera topography on that scale. Pyroclastic flows covered the ground near Mt. Aso, and columnar joints created by the contraction of rocks due to the heat can be seen everywhere. Takachiho Gorge, which is surprisingly close to Aso, has columnar joints that spread throughout the valley, and it is thought that it has been connected to mythology because it is a structure that does not seem to belong to this world.
takachiho canyon1 columnar joints
takachiho canyon2 3bridges
takachiho canyon3
takachiho canyon5 manai wate fall
When Japan was about to enter high economic growth, Takachiho Gorge, like the Nichinan Coast of Miyazaki Prefecture, was famous as a honeymoon destination. Here I would like to talk about the place named Takachiho, which has been a question for some time. Takachiho, as the Japanese character suggests, refers to rice cultivation in the highlands, but according to Japan’s oldest history book, the Kojiki, it also means the place where the gods descended to earth. This is the so-called “the descent to earth of the grandson of the sun goddess.” However, it seems that the question of whether the god descended first, Takachiho Gorge near Aso or Takachiho-mine (peak of mountain) in the Kirishima volcanic belt, is still unresolved. It’s originally a myth, so I guess it’s not one or the other. It’s just like Yamataikoku is undecided whether it’s Kinki or Kyushu (but the existance of this old imperial court is a historical fact). In any case, the magnificent scenery of nature will make you feel the presence of God. It may be the work of an old travel agency to attract tourists to Miyazaki Prefecture, which has inconvenient transportation (sorry).
However, as a real tourist destination, the sounds of rowing boats sailing through Takachiho Gorge and their collisions echoing within the canyon, which may be the voice of God grumbling. I wonder why young couples jump on rowboats right away. I am tempted to say that they should be satisfied with sailing at Chidorigafuchi or Shakujii Park in Tokyo.
Ama no Iwato Shrine: Riverbed of Ama no Yasukawara
ama no iwato shrine entrance
A famous myth that the older sister’s god (God of the Sun), angry at her younger brother’s violent behavior, closed the rock door and shut herself in a cave, causing the world to become pitch black, and the gods gathered together to deliberate in order to open the rock door. However, there is Ama no Iwato Shrine at the location of this rock door (you must apply for a prayer to see the rock door in front of you.), and Ama no Yasukawara Cave (this is free.) is located at the place where the council held the meeting. It’s natural that the authenticity is questionable, but first of all, even in the world of gods, the younger brother should apologize to the older sister, and the gods are the ones who cannot resolve such matters without deliberating. Furthermore, Takachiho is supposed to be the place where this sister’s grandchild landed on earth for the first time among the gods, but isn’t it strange that the rock door exists in this world?
amanoyasugawara1 meeting cave
amanoyasugawara3
amanoyasugawara4
amanoyasugawara5 salamander
When I was thinking about this, I couldn’t concentrate on sightseeing at all, and all I remember was the appearance of human faces on the surface of the trees on the left and right as I headed towards Ama no Iwato Shrine.
When traveling to enjoy the scenery, the weather is crucial. The scenery shines with the reflection of light, and the wind with just the right amount of humidity makes you feel refreshed. The sun is great! But this time, it’s the complete opposite. The rain was pouring down so hard that I couldn’t even step out of the car in Kusasenri, so I turned on the heater inside the car max to stay warm.
aso shelter
Still, the eruption alert level for Mt. Aso is at its lowest level, so this is a great opportunity to get up close. As we braved the wind and rain, a shelter covered with thick concrete suddenly appeared in front of us. I am reminded of the recent incident on Mt. Ontake in Kiso where climbers were caught in volcanic bombs. Then, for a moment, an emerald blue volcanic lake could be seen through the gap between the clouds and volcanic smoke. The weather was terrible, but it was an unforgettable sight, even though it was only for a short time.
aso crater2
aso crater1
aso crater3
After lunch at an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town, I went to Daikanbo, which has an observation deck for Aso mountain range, without high expectations. Although the clouds were not clear, I could see the Aso mountain range, which has been compared to the reclining statue of Buddha, and the somma with deep valleys surrounding it. It’s not all that the weather is bad. It seemed like a ray of light was shining.
aso statute of nirvana left
aso statute of nirvana right
aso somma2 water vapor
aso somma4 burnt remains
aso somma1
aso somma3
Detour (an herb farm* in Minami-oguni town)
wind forest 2 café
wind forest 1
wind forest 3
wind forest 4 lunch plate
wind forest 5
wind forest 6 dessert
wind forest 7 terrace
Overnight at Kurokawa Onsen ”Sanga”
The garden is well-maintained while retaining the atmosphere of deep in the mountain, but I was surprised to learn that it was all planted by hand. I fell in love with the richness of the ingredients and the delicious taste, and now I stay here regularly. It seems that all the accommodations in Kurokawa Onsen are wonderful, but I hope that the regular accommodations do not suffer from the negative effects of overtourism.
