Midwinter night festival that you must see at least once, with fireworks going off overhead

fes15 firework

Arrive into Chichibu city early, visit Chichibu Shrine (be sure to check out the carvings and the parents’ warning signboard), and select the Chichibu meisen (silk fabric with an innovative design that was popular during the Taisho era).      Let’s simulate nighttime behavior.    If you don’t decide on your route back to the inn and the final time in advance, you won’t really be able to return the inn.

“Kledge of paents”

>Don’t leave your skin unattended to babies

>Don’t leave your hands unattended to young children

>Don’t leave your eyes off your child

>Don’t leave your mind from young people

The operation plan for all the festival cars is open, just like a railway schedule, so you don’t have to worry about when and where they will change direction, where they will stop and stay, and when and where the children’s kabuki on the festival cars will be done.   If you want to see the festival cars with fireworks in the background in the middle of the night, be sure to read the schedule.

A festival car does not have a steering wheel like a car, so it can only move in a straight line.    How do it change direction at crossroads?    There will be no forceful change of direction like one at the Kyoto Gion Festival does.    The method is to use a lever to raise it, attach a rotating shaft underneath it, and then change direction.   The work before and after rotation is a bit tedious.    On the other hand, when pulling straight, it is much rougher than the Kyoto.

In the middle of the night, as festival cars cross the railroad crossing befor going up Dango sloop, the railroad overhead wires are cut off for about two hours.    How bold!

At the end, as all the festival cars line up at the Otabisho, the fireworks go off directly overhead, and you’ll be more overwhelmed by the huge sound than the gaiety of festival cars decorated with lights.    However, please note that seats inside the Otabisho are reserved in advance, and the fireworks are going off behind your head.

There is only one free place in Chichibu Park where you can watch the festival cars panting up Dango sloop and the fireworks in the back, and you might feel  scared of crowd like sad accident at Soul during Halloween week.   If fireworks are important to you, give up on Otabisho, but anywhere along National Route 140 is the best place because you can see clearly and it’s right next to the launch site.

Steam locomotives run on holidays and special days

seibu railway laview and mt.Buko
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A detour in late autumn, Heirinji Temple completely dyed in red.

heirin temple11
heirin temple6
heirin temple6

Hei-rin-ji Temple was named after the flat (“Hei” in Japanese) forest (“rin” in Japanese).    Friendly and easy to understand.   The entire vast precinct is colored with autumn leaves, and there is a walking path within the precinct.    If you go to the back, there are places where the leaves have not turned autumn yet, so you can enjoy the gradation.   But anyway, it’s hard to take a detour.    You have to take a bus from Hibarigaoka station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

 

Hibarigaoka is a famous place that was developed as a mammoth housing complex to meet the demand for new families to live during the time when Japan’s population increased explosively due to the baby boom.   The housing complex is on the opposite side of the station from Heirinji Temple, but renovations have progressed and some of the former housing complexes are now being used as shops, one of which is a café that serves giant pancakes.    It’s baked after you order it, so please look forward to it.

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Autumn Chichibu Golden Course, Nagatoro and Tsukinoishi Momiji Park

maple park6

Chichibu is a place where you can see that the ocean floor strata have sunk beneath the Japanese archipelago due to the mantle, and have come to the surface.   The limestone from Mt. Buko, which is still being scraped away, was a concrete material that supported Japan’s period of high economic growth, but it originally came from coral reefs in the Pacific Ocean.

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nagatoro rock tatami
nagatoro2 legs holding on
legs holding on crystalline schist

Nagatoro’s rock tatami is made of crystalline schist, which forms thin horizontal cracks (like puff pastry) when the pressure on the rock that was buried deep underground is released.

“Tsukinoishi Momiji Park” is literally  translated in English to “moon stone and maple park.”   “Moon stone! ”   Does this indecates the first one collected by Apollo and  exhibited at the Osaka Expo 1970 ?    That’s what you could think.    It’s confusing because it’s said to have been named after the phrase “moon stone” that appears in a haiku written by a Meiji haiku poet.   Maple trees grow in clusters on the west bank of the Arakawa River that runs through Chichibu, so when you come up from the river, you can see the red leaves of the maple trees shining in the clear setting sun.

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A detour in the middle of autumn: Marshal Togo in Koma Valley

togo park3 togo marshal

When you get off at Agano Station, you will see the station plaza, which is not very popular for sightseeing.    Following a group of energetic elderly people who have finished their warm-up exercise in front of the station, we follow the group up and down the narrow cliff-top path and mountain path along the railroad tracks until we arrive at the entrance to Togo Park.

togo park2
togo park2

Chichibu Mitake Shrine and Togo Park coexist there.    A little further up, you will see a blanket of bright autumn leaves surrounding the bronze statue of Marshal Togo.    From there, the autumn leaves continue all the way to the mountain.

togo park1
togo park1

 

 

 

 

Along the way, the actual deck of the battleship Mikasa, which was the flagship during the Russo-Japanese War, is on display, with many holes punched by cannonballs.    This is also the shrine that deified Mr. Togo Heihachiro, who defeated the Russian fleet.

At the top of the stone steps, you will reach the main hall of the shrine, but it can be flinching to climb up such a steep slope.    You can enjoy the autumn leaves without even climbing.    I have never seen a mountain so bright red during the autumn leaves.

By the way, there are many names of places near the mountains of Saitama Prefecture that are reminiscent of Korea.    It is said to have originated during the Nara period in Japan, when people who fled from Goguryeo, which had been destroyed by the Tang Dynasty, were given a place to settle from the goverment.    This kind of history is not learned in Japanese history.    There has been a lot of exchange with the mainland since ancient times.

(*)There is a road that goes into the mountain along the railway from the Agano mining site.  Believe in yourself and move on.

Goal to Chichibu (detail of Soba restaurant “Nagomi”)

The only way to get to Nagomi is to walk 20 minutes along a mountain path from Bushu Hino Station on the Chichibu Railway.    However, it is a soba restaurant that is worth the walk.    The restaurant serves only 50 meals a day, and for the first meal, the owner gets to sample the finished product.   On the way, I don’t think I’m the only one who gets surprised when someone calls out to me, “It’s dangerous,” when I cross an unmanned railroad crossing.    Who is that voice?

 

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Early summer detour to lavender fields and Little Kyoto

ranzan2

Arashiyama is a famous tourist destination in Kyoto.    However, the place name “Ranzan”, which is pronounced in original Chinese reading but written the same character, is said to have originated from a famous scholar who tweeted that it was Musashi-Arashiyama.   I haven’t walked all the way to Ranzan Valley, so I don’t know what it feels like, but there are lavender fields just before the valley.

sunflower from the stand
sunflower from the stand

It is common for high stands to be set up on the field to create a photo spot for Instagram photos (often seen in sunflower fields), but the real cultivated land is surprisingly small.   If you are in the Provence region of France, the field will fill your field of vision, but since the petals of lavender are small, it is difficult to take pictures that fill the screen with lavender.   The shoot ends early, and the lavender stick making process, which takes place in a tent that blocks the sun, takes just 30 minutes, making it a reasonable time option in the hot early summer weather.

Ogawa Town is a member of the National Kyoto Conference, so it calls itself Little Kyoto.    The history of handmadeJapanese paper, Washi continues, and the brand Hosokawa paper is registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.    Many historic buildings remain, and the town is just the right size to get around by renting a bicycle in front of the station.

Japanese paper as label of sake
Japanese paper as label of sake

If you go a little further by bicycle, there is a sake brewery which brews delicious sakes, Mikado-matsu, and you can also tour it’s inside.    Knowing that the label on this sake bottle is made from Washi paper from Ogawa Town is proof that you are well versed in the culture of this town.    Enjoy the rice malt dishes and desserts made with Daiginjo at the attached restaurant.

 

 

Goal to Chichibu (Usual inn and soba restaurant)

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Onikobe in late autumn looks like something strange is going on

naruko gorge late autumn (1)

The literal translation of the Japanese word Onikobe into English is the head of a demon.   The name Onikobe comes from a legend that during the Heian period, the heads of powerful people from the Tohoku region conquered by Sakanoue Tamuramaro were flown to this area.    A little further back from Naruko Dam is Onikobe Hotspring, which is famous for its geysers.

Hell valley is nearby, but I’ve never seen many tourists on it, and it’s a wild trail with geysers all over the promenade that erupt out of too hot water as you walk.    There is a puddle of hot water in the middle that continues to bubble up, so if you put a raw egg in there and pick it up on the way home, you’ll end up with perfectly soft-boiled eggs.    If you don’t prepare a spoon or chopsticks in advance, the boiled eggs that cannot be removed will end up becoming manure in the fields.

Detour 1

Naruko Gorge in late autumn, a month after the peak of its autumn leaves, has a dry look.    The deep cliffs of the gorge give it an even more rugged look.

Detour 2

Iwadeyama was once the stronghold of the Sendai Date family, and its descendants established an academic school called Yubikan. There is a wonderful garden with Iwadeyama Castle in the background.

Detour of Detour

A balloon festival is held in late November mainly on the riverbank at Iwadeyama.   In short, there are no obstacles around, the wind is good, and the crops on the large cultivated land have finished harvesting, so this is the time.  There are events where you can ride a balloon moored and see it from above for free.    However, only 150 numbered tickets will be distributed in the early hours of the morning, so you will need a lot of guts.    Moreover, tickets are only given out to people who lined up to get numbered tickets, so even if you line up alone, you won’t get a ticket for your family.    If you bring children, it’s a good opportunity to test their mettle, but if the weather is bad, you should be prepared for the fact that the numbered tickets will only serve as souvenirs.

not just naruko cover photo
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Naruko Gorge, Autumn leaves like a picture on a folding screen

naruko gorge from ohfukasawa bridge (1) panoramic view
naruko gorge from train (1)
naruko gorge from train (1)

For backpackers coming from Sendai, I recommend getting off at the next station, Nakayama-daira Onsen, instead of Naruko Onsen Station (2.5 hours by JR from Sendai).  The reason for this is that you can briefly glimpse the core of Naruko Gorge that you are about to see between the tunnels passing through the gorge, and the walk from the station to Naruko Gorge is short (about 30 minutes) and there is a flat footpath.

naruko gorge from train (2)
naruko gorge from train (2)

However, as soon as you get off the train, you’ll see a quiet village that makes you wonder if you’ve made a mistake.  On the way to Naruko Gorge, you can see the steam rising from the hot spring village where the hot springs are gentle on the skin. You can stop by on your way home.

Naruko Gorge suddenly appears at the end of the pine forest. When viewed from the top of a steep cliff, it looks like a series of folding screens of autumn leaves.

naruko gorge upper (2) train
naruko gorge upper (2) train

In the gorge at the bottom right, you can clearly see the railroad tracks that the train passed through earlier.  Many photographers are ready to take pictures of the train coming out of the tunnel exit on the cliff covered in autumn leaves.

 

Feeling depressed about the prospect of climbing back up, I descended from the steep cliff for 15 minutes and arrived at the deepest part of the gorge surrounded by cliffs covered in autumn leaves (Kaiko Bridge).

Returning to the top of the cliff, you can see the deep meandering of the Otani River, which created Naruko Gorge, from the midway point of Ohfukasawa Bridge, which is located directly above the Kaiko Bridge.

Beyond that bridge is the entrance to a quiet road that Edo period haiku poet Matsuo Basho wrote about in his travelogue on Oku no Hosomichi (about 45 minutes on the Ohfukasawa Promenade).    There is “Shitomae barrier for defense” nearby.

 

“Shitomae barrier for defense”

The literal translation of the Japanese word naruko into English is a crying child.   There is a theory that Naruko was named after the cry of a child that Minamoto no Yoshitsune’s wife gave birth to while he was on his way to Hiraizumi, and that the place was named “Shitomae barrier for defense”  because the child urinated there for the first time.

Basho is said to have been suspicious of this barrier official when he was leaving for Yamagata, and he also wrote a poem in which he woke up to a horse urinating on his bedside in the stable of a private house where he was staying in the constant rain.    However, it is said that this is just an exaggeration since they probably won’t be able to sleep in the stables.   When I read that haiku for the first time, I believed it with all my heart.

       “Plagued by fleas and lice,

                             I hear the horses urinating              

                                                                   Right by my pillow”

 

 

not just naruko cover photo
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Shirakaba Highland, a traditional Japanese resort

shirakaba highlands (2) center shirakaba lake

What conditions make it feel like a resort?     It is important not only to have a good view, but also to have a painterly color and a quiet atmosphere.

 

Perhaps it’s because the white birch (Shirakaba in Japanese) forest looks completely white and gives off a feeling that can’t exist in the ordinary world.    So why are pure white birch forest areas created?   This is because seeds in the soil stay dormant until the conditions are right, and when a forest fire or landslide leaves a ruin, they all switch to germinate all at once in order to suppress other plants and monopolize the area where they can grow as quickly as possible.   That’s why there’s a white forest all around, so it’s beautiful.    However, the lifespan of a tree is about 70 years, so the expression “beautiful and short-lived” can also be applied to these trees.

Lake Shirakaba View Point

Although it looks like a picturesque scene, Lake Shirakaba in the center of photos is actually an artificial lake.   There is a restaurant called Asahigaoka on this lakeside that serves very delicious soba noodles.    It’s more like a private house than a storefront.    You can also eat rainbow trout caught in Lake Shirakaba.    This is real, not artificial, indeed.

Detour (Goddess View Point on the way of Venus-Line)

Detour (Going down to Lake Tateshina on the way of Venus-Line)

shirakoma pond0 cover photo
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The most densely populated area, foothills of Yatsugatake

chino hightland1 cabbage field and yatsugatake

This was during the Jomon period.    To begin with, the Suwa region is where the Japanese archipelago was split in two after it was torn apart from Asia due to tectonic plate movement.   It is said that 5,000 years ago during the middle Jomon period, it had the highest population density in Japan.    The reason for this is said that people have fled as sea levels have risen due to global warming, people have fled ash fall from a major eruption in Kyushu, and people have come looking for obsidian to use as arrowheads and knives.   The Jomon period had a strong image of being primarily about hunting, but recent research shows that there was a lot of farming involved.

hacchi clay figurine2 national tresure
go to Hachinohe clay ( national tresure)

Chino also has two of the five national treasure clay figurines.   Pregnant Jomon Venus, masked goddess (above).    Their shape probably have a meaning from the Jomon period, but their deformation is amazing even as modern art.    I also like the clay figures with palms together of Hachinohe.

 

The current foothills of Mt. Yatsugatake are cool throughout the year, sometimes causing rice harvest failures.    The water is warmed by a reservoir, and the crops are protected by a windbreak forest of red pines.   The cabbage fields, buckwheat fields, and windbreak forest with Yatsugatake in the background are the best photo spots.

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Moss Forest, a gathering place for people who love the world of Ghibli

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shirakoma forest3 moss
shirakoma forest3 moss

As soon as you step inside, you will be greeted by a ”moss forest” that covers everything from the ground to the roots of the primeval forest.    This scenery has been used in various TV commercials, so you may have seen it somewhere at least once.    It is said that 485 types of moss live there, so I went in with a magnifying glass, but I couldn’t really observe each one individually.

shirakoma forest6 huge rocks
shirakoma forest6 huge rocks

Anyway, as I climbed up to the Takami-ishi Hut enjoying the scenery I had never seen before, I suddenly saw a mountain piled up with large rocks that looked like they had been piled up by giants.     If you drop something into a crevice between rocks, you will never be able to get it out, so be careful when climbing.    When you reach the top of the rocky mountain, you can see the round Shirakoma Pond floating just below, and beyond that you can see a vast panoramic view of the Saku and Karuizawa basins, and even Mt. Asama with its volcanic smoke behind them.

 

We crawled down the rocky mountain, passed the mirror-like shores of Shirakoma Pond, and returned to the parking lot through ”Mononoke Forest”, which is also reminiscent of the world of Ghibli.    It’s a different world for three hours above the clouds, but it’s a beauty that no amount of words can express.

The largest lake above the clouds, “Shirakoma Pond”

Detour (View Point)

Midway through the winding descent on the way back, at a point where my fellow passengers were beginning to feel uncomfortable, we came to the Hinata-Koba Observation Deck.     A resting place, not a detour.   You can see the Yatsugatake Mountains to the east, the Southern Alps and Kiso Mountains to the south, the Northern Alps to the west, and Mt. Tateshina at the northern tip of Yatsugatake.    I have never seen so many mountains in Japan in one direction.    The weather was so nice that day that I could see the summit of Mt. Yarigatake and was very impressed.

 

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