Kukai (Kobo-Taishi) is an influencer, creator of the pilgrimage

zentsuji east side nan-daimon gate

Kukai (Kobo-Taishi) is famous for bringing Esoteric Buddhism from China, and he is often compared to Saicho, who was active at the same time.   In my understanding, Hieizan, opened by Saicho, who accepted his own weaknesses, actively allowed many sects to arise, but Kukai is a genius and self-respect.    The two are polar opposites of soft and hard.

zentsuji east side camphor tree from the time when Kobo-Taishi was alive
zentsuji east side camphor tree from the time when Kobo-Taishi was alive
zentsuji east side five-storied pagoda
zentsuji east side five-storied pagoda

This time, in commemoration of the 1250th anniversary of the birth of Kukai, I visited because the Buddha statue wrapped in a secret veil was open to the public, but the admission fee was a little too high.    They show special things that are not usually shown, which increases their market value.   In particular, “Hikime Taishi,” which will be open to the public this time, is said to be a living copy of a young Kukai, and there is an anecdote that he blinked when an emperor visited him in the Kamakura period, but who knows Kukai’s face when he was young?    It’s not as horror as the bloody Mary statue, but the blinking Buddha statue is also a bit charming.

Therefore, I tried to save money and challenge myself by going around the dark basement of the temple, which is always open to the public, and re-examining myself in it.    However, I was told that it was a combined fee with the opening of Hikime Taishi, and I gave up on this as well.

By the way, the name “Zentsuji” temple can be read as “pass well” in the Japanese kunyomi reading.    That’s why the amulet seems to be popular with students preparing for university entrance exams.    In my case, I just “passed by” the temple without doing anything.   Kanchi-in Temple, the sub-temple of Zentsuji Temple, had a secret Buddha statue open to the public for free, so I “passed well” taking a good look at it.

Kobo-Taishi teaches that just naming though carefully and attractions created well attract people and they will come to temples naturally.

zentsuji to east side and pirgrim
zentsuji to east side and pirgrim

It is said that the tour of the 88 sacred sites in Shikoku began when the disciples traced the place of prayer opened by Kobo-Taishi.    A journey always has an end, and it won’t end until you’ve completed everything. (A never-ending journey, it’s wandering.)  This “traversing” is important, and once you step on it, you must go around it all, so it’s a great system for the tourist association.   In the sacred site tour, you dedicate your own amulet with a wish to each temple, while in the stamp rally, you collect stamps from the places you visit in your notebook.    Recently, collecting goshuin stamps has become popular in the same sense as this stamp rally, and it has become a new source of income for shrines and temples.    This is some kind of gimmick.    Some of them even issue paper-cutting-type goshuin stamps for the season, and I think it’s a little overheated.  In any case, the teachings of Kobo-Taishi have continued to this day.    Chichibu 34 Kannon tour in Saitama prefecture is the same system.   There are tricks all over the country, and it has become a tourist attraction.

zentsuji east side kondo
zentsuji east side kondo (75th temple of 88 sacred sites)

detour

Kumaoka confectionery shop is located between the east and west temples of Zentsuji.    Hard bread is very dangerous for people with bad teeth.   If you hold it in your mouth instead of chewing it, you can enjoy the delicious taste of ginger.    If you’re still in danger, have a pound cake.    It’s also cheap and delicious.

 

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Climb the 785 stone steps and see Mt. Fuji from Konpira

konpira22 sanuki flat

Konpira-san has a strong character of the god of sea routes, but in the feudal era when people were prohibited from moving from distant regions, they were allowed to visit Konpira.   It is said that Konpira pilgrimage became very popular in the Edo period because no one could reach the main shrine unless they climbed 785 steps on their own, and because rumors were exaggerated after the people who visited the shrine returned home.

konpira10 a dog worships on behalf of its master
konpira10 a dog worships on behalf of its master

It is said that those who could not go by themselves wrapped money, goods, and addresses around their dogs, and entrusted those who went to the shrine to visit with their dogs.    If the entrusted person gave up on the way, it is said that he entrusted the dog to another person who was visiting.    This is a surprising system because it is close to the idea of ​​modern Internet protocols.

Before starting the climb, first fill yourself up with “Sanuki Udon”.    Shrines are often decorated with wooden sacred horses, but here there are two real horses that are not ornaments.    In addition, perhaps to pray for safe navigation, even a large screw is decorated.

konpira16 one step down
konpira16 one step down

If you count the stone steps up to the main shrine, there are 786 steps. However, when the number is read in Japanese, it becomes “worry”(Na-Ya-Mu in Japanese), and it is bad luck even though you came to the shrine.   Therefore, inserting a stone stair that goes down one step to make a total of 785 steps is a very Japanese solution.    It’s a people who likes puns.    I don’t know where to go down one step when I’m dazed, but if I know in advance that I’m going to go down one step somewhere on the long stone steps, I feel nervous and have a little fun.

stone step upto tea house
Click above to refer to stone steps to Mt.Haguro Shrine

A similar story can be found at the 2446 stone steps on Mt. Haguro Shrine in Yamagata Prefecture.    Here, masons engraved something on the stone steps and mixed and matched stylishly designed stones to make you look forward to discovering them.    It makes me happy that Japanese people have had that kind of sense for a long time.

When you climb up to the main shrine, you will be so impressed by the view of the Sanuki Plain from there that you won’t even care about visiting the shrine (it’s a lie).    Beautiful cone-shaped small mountains are scattered in the flat plain, and this looks like small Mt.Fuji.    I believe that people who visited the shrine in the Edo period must have spread playful rumors that they could have seen “real” Mt.Fuji from Konpira.

konpira23 sanuki Fuji
konpira23 sanuki Fuji
konpira19 goal
konpira19 goal
konpira13 special presentation to the public of Jakuchu
konpira13 special presentation to the public of Jakuchu

The Shoin in the middle of the stone steps was the residence of Shinto priests.    This was where the high-ranking people visited, and in the room for visitors, you can always see the fusuma paintings of Maruyama Ohkyo and others.   The purpose of this travel is Jakuchu’s fusuma painting, which is extravagant because it is in the private room of the priest.    It is said that Jakuchu sent this to celebrate his inauguration as a Shinto priest, partly because the Shinto priest at the time had learned painting from Jakuchu.    How cool is that?    In addition to Jakuchu, there are wall paintings of countless butterflies by Gantai, and their detailed expressions make me stare at them.    I hope it will be published again someday.

https://www.nhk.or.jp/takamatsu/jakuchu/index.html

NHK Kagawa is filming the video, so you may be able to watch it on NHK’s favorite rebroadcast (archive).    There are many rebroadcast programs in recent years.    Even though I pay the same amount of NHK subscription fees, the number of broadcasting channels seems to be decreasing.

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Kintai Bridge, an arch bridge completed by the feudal lord’s obsession

kintai bridge1

I thought it was near Iwakuni Station, but I was shaken by a nice local bus and arrived when I was about to get worried.    Original story is that, the castle town was small and divided by a river, so it seems that the feudal lord wanted to

kintai bridge4 iwakuni castle
kintai bridge4 iwakuni castle

build a large bridge so that the low-ranking samurai who lived on the other side of the castle would not have to use boats all the time.    It is said that the arch bridge in the scenery of the West Lake in the Chinese literature ordered from Nagasaki was referred to.    This bridge has a structure in which short girders are piled up from both sides and protrude little by little to form an arch.    It is splendid because it is said that the 100% wooden bridge has not been washed away for nearly 300 years since its construction.    I thought that the steep slope of the arch bridge was really slippery, but this time I learned for the first time that that part was the stairs.

In “Miyamoto Musashi” written by Eiji Yoshikawa, Tsubame-gaeshi, which is said to have been mastered by Kojiro Sasaki, Musashi’s opponent in a serious match with his life on the line, was created through practice on this bridge.  Tsubame-gaeshi literally translates into English as cutting off a swiftly-circling swallow.   However, it is charming that the bridge will be completed after the decisive battle between the two swordsmen.    A bronze statue of Kojiro Sasaki stands by the bridge, and he is a splendid young warrior.

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Still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine

itsukushima shrine1

I wrote that Hiroshima is not only about the World Heritage Itsukushima Shrine, but, still, I can’t help but stop by Itsukushima Shrine.

Just the other day, the G7 leaders visited Itsukushima Shrine.   A shrine floating on the surface of the sea is beautiful, but a shrine at ebb tide isn’t bad either.    Oh, don’t be disappointed if the time doesn’t match, feel like you’ve come to dig clams and touch the red big torii that you usually can’t get close to.

itsukushima shrine5
itsukushima shrine5

Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara had many wild deer, messengers of the gods, and there are also many wild deer here.    However, since they are not treated as messengers of the gods, feeding them is prohibited.    Even with the same deer, the difference in treatment is considerable.   But there was a person who gave them momiji manju with the shape of maple.   Momiji manju is certainly delicious for humans to eat, but I definitely recommend eating the plump conger eel before crossing over to Itsukushima.    No high-end restaurant can match the taste.

Morning walk in Hiroshima and …

Western Japan has many feudal lord’s gardens right in town.    At that time, feudal lords competed to have a garden with large ponds built.    Shukkeien in Hiroshima is one of famous gardens.  There are trees that survived the atomic bomb.  Okonomiyaki when you are hungry.    People in Hiroshima seem to eat okonomiyaki from lunch, but I’m impressed that they can eat it without beer.

itsukushima shrine1
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Cruising to Tomonoura, a historic town

tomonoura0

There are no unsophisticated people who come to the Seto Inland Sea and travel by land from Onomichi to Tomonoura.    On the way of sea, you can see a large suspension bridge, a shipyard, and Kannon who prays for maritime safety.   However, please note that this cruise ship makes two round trips a day only on weekends and holidays.

Crusing from Onomichi to Tomonoura

Well, Tomonoura is located right in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea and was a port of waiting for the tide in the age of ships that depended on the wind and currents.   The high tide coming from the east and west channels of the Seto Inland Sea collides offshore, and the force is used to enter the port.    When leaving the port to advance offshore, it uses the power of the ebb tide that pulls it to the east and west .

The place where the Korean envoys stopped by still remains, and it is also the place where Japan’s first maritime casualty negotiations occurred between steamships on the late Edo period.    Here is the site of a true story in which the Kishu Domain (almost  Wakayama prefecture), which was under the control of the shogunate, was defeated by the Kaientai led by Ryoma Sakamoto, according to the World Public Law.

It’s fun to take a leisurely stroll through the nostalgic port town.    This is the stage of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” produced by Studio Ghibli. Furthermore, ‘Hohmeishu’, sweet sake with Japanese herbs, is famous, but you should also try original sweet sake ‘mirin’ which enhances the flavor of the dish.

itsukushima shrine1
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The cat road full of slopes is photogenic. Onomichi is a mecca for movies and anime.

onomichi13 skyview center
onomichi17 down slope
onomichi17 down slope

Anyway, Onomichi has a lot of slopes, cats and temples.   If you get lost in the narrow roads  friendly to cats, you are sure to come across a photogenic scenery.

Since Onomichi has a quiet channel between it and Mukaishima island on the opposite shore, it has been used since the Middle Ages as a shipping port for rice as annual tribute from inland manors and a shipping port for

onomichi road indication to Izumo
onomichi road indication to Izumo

 

 

silver from Izumo’s Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, which has become a World Heritage Site.

 

 

Takauji Ashikaga, who established the Muromachi Shogunate, also used this place as a foothold to advance to Kyoto.

onomichi3 joudo temple
onomichi3 joudo temple

A town packed with various elements.   That’s why it may be used in movies and anime scenes.   Walking route is as below.

The ropeway in the town is quite crowded, but from the top you can see the beauty of islands in the Seto Inland Sea.  The time of sunset is the target.  During the cherry blossom season, the whole mountain is dyed in cherry blossom color.

View from the top

onomichi cherry blossom season
onomichi cherry blossom season
itsukushima shrine1
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That island occupied by rabbits

rabbit island0 welcome
rabbit island6 welcome
rabbit island6 welcome

After landing that island you are immediately surrounded by huge number of rabbits.   There are lots of stories as to why rabbits were brought in Ohkuno island and bred.   Looking at the rabbits lying on their bellies and too relaxing even when people approach, it seems like a peaceful island.   However, ruins where the former army conducted poison gas experiments remain everywhere.  My delusion (story) is that after World War II, the GHQ (occupying American army) released the rabbits to confirm the safety of the poison gas removal process.

rabbit island11 too relaxed
rabbit island11 too relaxed

Don’t forget to procure rabbit food before crossing the island.   Rabbits don’t care about people who don’t have food.

Rent a bicycle when you get to the island.   You can go around in about 30 minutes.   However, if you want to see the beauty of the many islands, you need to leave your bicycle and climb a little.

Detour

Did you know that Chukai, Takehara City has a headquarters and a factory that holds more than 50% of Japan’s jam market share?   It is  Aohata, which is the first company in the world to canned mandarin oranges grown in the Seto Inland Sea.    It is said that the president of Aohata, who watched a regatta race between the UK’s most famous universities, was impressed by the cheering of the blue flag.   English replacement of Aohata is a blue flag.      Visitable factories and photogenic shops are near Chukai JR station.

Jam factory
Jam factory

 

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Takehara was once connected to Kyoto

takehara14

It is said that Takehara began when Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto developed the land based on the law of the Nara period that allowed the land that was cultivated by oneself to be owned by oneself.    This law was the beginning of the manor system, and wealth was concentrated in those who had the financial power to cultivate the land by themselves, and it triggered the collapse of the world centered on the emperor.

Anyway, Takehara has a connection with Kyoto and still retains a townscape called Little Kyoto.    Incidentally, the Kamo River, which has the same name as Kyoto, runs through the center of the city. Also, like Kyoto, sake brewing is thriving, and one of its descendants founded Nikka Whiskey in Japan.

takehara13
takehara13

A feature that is completely different from Kyoto is salt making in salt fields.    At that time, 80% of the salt produced in Japan was produced in Hiroshima Prefecture.

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Tanabata Decoration Festival (Miyagi Prefecture)

tanabata7

When you look at the Tanabata decorations in the shopping district, they all look the same(sorry),  but when you learn that each shop displays their own decorations in front of each shop,  your perspective changes.   The results of contest are indicated unobtrusively beside each decoration.

By the way, a famous person signed a streamer for Tanabata decorations, so it seems that there was an event to find it, but the person who found it would definitely tear it off, so I thought the game wouldn’t work.

Recently, sparrow dances have been incorporated into festivals and contests have also been held. After all, decorations alone lack excitement, so it has changed to a participatory festival.   By the way, the sparrow is also the family crest of the Date family of the Sendai clan.

morioka6
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Hanagasa Dancing Festival (Yamagata Prefecture)

yamagata6 star wars

An important tool in Hanagasa Dance is a hat decorated with flowers.  The flower is safflower, and it was very valuable in the Edo period as a raw material for dyes and lipsticks.  ”Beautiful flowers have thorns.”  It was said that the hands of the young women who hand-picked them were dyed red with thorns.   Please refer to safflower stories in Yamagata at the botton below.

safflower
Go to safflower stories

Go back to the festival, many teams that make up the parade show off their unique dances from in traditional and elegant style to in brave and dynamic style.  Television news programs often show dances in an elegant style, but in contrast to folk music, the force of moving the hanagasa hats violently in dynamic style cannot be conveyed unless you come to the site.  My impression was that elegant dance and dynamic dance in the parade were half and half.   Original dances were occasionally seen.  Each team consists of communities, schools, and workplaces, and each of them appeals their own characteristics in their dance.

yamagata3 soba
yamagata3 soba

It is held on the long main street at night.  So, no need to keep a viewing spot in advance.  Please enjoy Yamagata soba in between viewings.   Yamagata Prefecture ranks first in the consumption ranking of soba.   Please refer to soba stories in Yamagata at the botton below.

white flower of buckwheat
Go to white flower of buckwheat and soba stories

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