The bridge that connects Kyushu to Hirado Island looks just like the Golden Bridge. Missionaries came to Hirado Port in an earlier era than Nagasaki, and carried out Christianity and trade with the Western countries. Furthermore, after Hideyoshi‘s ban on Christianity, this was the place where missionaries who had been scattered around the country gathered to discuss their future. The area further inland from Hirado, facing the East China Sea, later became a place for hidden Christians.
The Matsuura clan has ruled this area for a long time, bringing prosperity through trade and passing on its culture. They also created a creative confectionery called “Hyakuka no Kashi” (Confectionery of a Hundred Flowers), using the abundant sugar imported into the area, which is essential for the tea ceremony. Some of these confectioneries have been restored and are available as souvenirs. Today, it gives the impression of being a peaceful town on a bay, but at the time, up-and-coming merchants and intellectuals must have roamed the streets alongside the Nanban people. When you think about it, this remote corner of Japan was a gateway to the outside world due to its easy access, and was actually at the forefront of culture.
The town of Hirado has a number of small slopes surrounding the inlet, with a view of the castle visible at the end of the inlet, and today the serene port town can be enjoyed from various angles. One of them is called the road where you can see the temple and church together. It has become a popular tourist spot because you can see the temple and church together through the camera viewfinder, but only those who have been there know that this is the middle of an incredibly long stone staircase. There is not a single line about this in the guidebooks. I definitely recommend visiting while you’re still in good health.
You can easily stroll around in about an hour, but if you stop by the Matsuura Historical Museum, which is packed with things to see, you won’t have enough time. The museum itself was the feudal lord’s mansion, so the building itself is magnificent to begin with, but because it was the Matsuura clan that ruled this area for a long time, treasures from past lords are on display everywhere, and all of them are genuine, not replicas.
At the very least, I would like you to take a look at the map surveyed and drawn by Ino Tadataka and a passage from a sword-fighting book written by feudal lord Matsuura Seizan: “There are miraculous victories, but no miraculous losses.” Another thing worth seeing is the actual “Fumie,” a statue of Christ that was used in the Edo period to expose hidden Christians and make suspected Christians step on it. A true Christian would never step on God, but no matter how you look at it, the image looks like the devil Satan. Anyone could step on it.
Last but not least, we would like you to eat your fill of seafood here, rather than at the Yobuko Morning Market. We recommend you try the thickness of the sashimi set meal, the change from plain rice to rice infused with flying fish broth, and the great value for money of the grilled turban shells. I really wanted to eat some fresh fried horse mackerel, but they didn’t have any in stock that day.
Detour
Tabira Church is a brick church designed and constructed by a Japanese person. Not only is it beautiful, but the majesty of the Gothic style of the front facade is speechless. Once inside, the stained glass appears to have been made overseas, but scenes from the life of Christ cover the entire wall, and I felt that I would never see such magnificent stained glass even overseas. To enter the site, you need to make a reservation online two days in advance, but it’s free. However, we ask that you make a donation by purchasing postcards or other items. It’s located just before crossing the Hirado Bridge.
