Saitama prefecture | Japanese Countryside Travel Notes

2026-04-29

Weeping cherry blossoms are more wabi-sabi than Kyoto

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (2)

Heading west from Kagemori Station on the Chichibu Railway, you’ll find a series of temples along the line, each boasting magnificent weeping cherry trees. It’s a bit of a distance, but it’s a leisurely stroll along the country road, admiring the cherry blossoms planted here and there along the way. Incidentally, the Arakawa River, which flows through downtown Tokyo, runs along the railway line. Here, it carves a deep gorge.

Urayamaguchi Station (2)

Urayamaguchi Station (1)

Shofukuji Temple

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (1)

First, I started walking from Bushu-Hino Station. Although there were no signs, I climbed up beside a farmhouse and suddenly Shofuku-ji Temple appeared. The sight of the cherry blossoms adorning the temple gate, which you can see when you look up the stairs, is truly breathtaking. This spot is on a slight hill, so you can see the Chichibu Basin beyond the curtain of weeping cherry blossoms in front of you, with cherry blossoms visible everywhere. You can also see the Chichibu Railway, and you’ll probably even see the steam locomotives moving along, spewing black smoke.

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (3)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (7)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (8)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (9)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (10)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (4)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (6)

weeping cherry blossoms in Shofukuji temple (5)

Seiunj Temple and Wakajishi Shrine

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (11)

Next, we head towards the weeping cherry tree forest at Seiunji Temple, which is often seen on posters. Along the way, we pass a shrine with a sumo wrestling ring. The weeping cherry trees at Seiunji Temple are simply breathtaking. If you climb the stairs of the adjacent Wakajishi Shrine and look down from above, you can enjoy an even more spectacular view of the weeping cherry forest. Incidentally, the protective statue at the entrance of this shrine is a wolf, not a guardian lion. Apparently, they light up the shrine at night during the cherry blossom festival, and the fact that there are stalls selling farming tools gives it a very rural festival feel.

weeping cherry blossoms (1)field of sumo wrestling

weeping cherry blossoms (2)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (1)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (3)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (4)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (5)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (6)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (7)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (8)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (9)Wolves instead of guardian lions

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (10)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (12)

source: Chichibumovies

Chosenji Temple

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (7)

Finally, we visit Chōsenji Temple, famous for the revival of a giant weeping cherry tree that had once declined in vitality. Weeping cherry trees bloom earlier than Somei Yoshino cherry trees, so the giant white weeping cherry tree here has already shed its blossoms, but the temple grounds are beautifully maintained. Furthermore, this temple is worth visiting this year because it is unveiling its hidden Buddha statue for the Year of the Horse. However, since the unveiling is taking place in the back of the temple hall, which is quite dark, it is very difficult to see the face of the Kannon statue, making it almost as if it were not unveiled at all.

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (9)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (1)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (2)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (3)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (4)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (5)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (6)

weeping cherry blossoms in Chosenji temple (8)

From here, I headed towards Urayamaguchi Station, surrounded by cherry blossoms, and returned to my accommodation.

Urayamaguchi Station (4)

Urayamaguchi Station (5)

Urayamaguchi Station (7)

weeping cherry blossoms in Seiunji temple (2) — Go back to itinerary

2026-04-262026-04-28

Securing a good location is crucial for collaborative photos

Along the Chichibu Railway line, especially around the stations, weeping cherry trees are densely packed. What’s more, they’re not lined up in an orderly fashion, but rather grow naturally, which is what makes them so appealing. These photos, featuring cherry blossoms alongside a quaint old train station, are a classic example of cherry blossom photography.

Urayamaguchi Station (3)

Urayamaguchi Station (6)

Urayamaguchi Station (7)

Moreover, since the steam locomotive runs on weekends from spring to autumn, it would be a shame not to take photos of the steam locomotive and cherry blossoms together. However, securing a good spot is crucial for taking these kinds of photos. But, Chichibu isn’t overly touristy, so even photography enthusiasts are generally calm, and finding a good spot is still a peaceful affair.

Bushu Hino Station (2)

Bushu Hino Station (5)

Bushu Hino Station (6)

A train whistle echoes in the distance, letting us know it’s getting closer. Soon, the hissing sound of steam can be heard traveling along the tracks. If you choose a location with a slope, you can capture the sight of black smoke billowing around cherry blossoms. The steam locomotive seems to approach slowly, but once it’s in front of you, it suddenly speeds past.

Bushu Hino Station (9)

Bushu Hino Station (7)

Bushu Hino Station (8)

Bushu Hino Station (3)

Bushu Hino Station (1)

My usual favorite photo spot is around Bushu-Hino Station. There’s a small level crossing without barriers, and an automated voice warns you “Dangerous!” if you try to cross it, but people who don’t know about the automated voice system are startled by the voice and almost trip, so it’s hard to tell which is more dangerous.

Soba restaurant (1)

Soba restaurant (2)

Soba restaurant (3)

If you walk about 20 minutes uphill from this railroad crossing, you’ll find a popular soba restaurant that only serves 49 bowls a day. The owner apparently checks the quality of the soba for one bowl each day, but you can’t help but think, why not just make 51 bowls? A score of 80 points was posted inside the restaurant at that day. It was indeed delicious. Soba noodles are a living thing, so eat them all first before starting on the side dishes. Also, since it’s a mountain trail, don’t forget your bear bell. You have to risk your life to eat delicious food.

2023-11-092023-11-09

Midwinter night festival that you must see at least once, with fireworks going off overhead

Arrive into Chichibu city early, visit Chichibu Shrine (be sure to check out the carvings and the parents’ warning signboard), and select the Chichibu meisen (silk fabric with an innovative design that was popular during the Taisho era). Let’s simulate nighttime behavior. If you don’t decide on your route back to the inn and the final time in advance, you won’t really be able to return the inn.

chichibu shrine1

chichibu shrine2

chichibu shrine3

chichibu shrine4

chichibu shrine5 chained dragon

chichibu shrine6 three monkeys with opposit action against those at Nikko-Toshogu

chichibu shrine8 lever

chichibu shrine7 knowledge of parents

“Kledge of paents”

>Don’t leave your skin unattended to babies

>Don’t leave your hands unattended to young children

>Don’t leave your eyes off your child

>Don’t leave your mind from young people

fes1

fes2

fes7 paris collection

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fes9 waitig for kabuki

fes10 kabuki

fes11 kabuki wisteria daughter

fes12 old street of wholesaler

fes13 chichibu meisen

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The operation plan for all the festival cars is open, just like a railway schedule, so you don’t have to worry about when and where they will change direction, where they will stop and stay, and when and where the children’s kabuki on the festival cars will be done. If you want to see the festival cars with fireworks in the background in the middle of the night, be sure to read the schedule.

operation plan of festival cars

chichibu festival cars road map

A festival car does not have a steering wheel like a car, so it can only move in a straight line. How do it change direction at crossroads? There will be no forceful change of direction like one at the Kyoto Gion Festival does. The method is to use a lever to raise it, attach a rotating shaft underneath it, and then change direction. The work before and after rotation is a bit tedious. On the other hand, when pulling straight, it is much rougher than the Kyoto.

fes3

fes4 lever

fes5 lever

fes6 lever for turn

In the middle of the night, as festival cars cross the railroad crossing befor going up Dango sloop, the railroad overhead wires are cut off for about two hours. How bold!

preparation to remove overhead wire

dango sloop beyond the railway crossing

fes17 toward dango sloop

At the end, as all the festival cars line up at the Otabisho, the fireworks go off directly overhead, and you’ll be more overwhelmed by the huge sound than the gaiety of festival cars decorated with lights. However, please note that seats inside the Otabisho are reserved in advance, and the fireworks are going off behind your head.

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fes19 square of city hole and goal

There is only one free place in Chichibu Park where you can watch the festival cars panting up Dango sloop and the fireworks in the back, and you might feel scared of crowd like sad accident at Soul during Halloween week. If fireworks are important to you, give up on Otabisho, but anywhere along National Route 140 is the best place because you can see clearly and it’s right next to the launch site.

Steam locomotives run on holidays and special days

steam locomotive1 at bushu-hino station

steam locomotive2

steam locomotive3

souvenir shakushina with recipe

seibu railway laview and mt.Buko — go back to itinerary

2023-11-08

A detour in late autumn, Heirinji Temple completely dyed in red.

Hei-rin-ji Temple was named after the flat (“Hei” in Japanese) forest (“rin” in Japanese). Friendly and easy to understand. The entire vast precinct is colored with autumn leaves, and there is a walking path within the precinct. If you go to the back, there are places where the leaves have not turned autumn yet, so you can enjoy the gradation. But anyway, it’s hard to take a detour. You have to take a bus from Hibarigaoka station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

heirinji temple walking map

heirin temple15 promnard of backyard

heirin temple1

heirin temple2

heirin temple3

heirin temple4

heirin temple5

heirin temple7

heirin temple8

heirin temple9

heirin temple10

heirin temple12

heirin temple13

heirin temple14

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heirin temple16

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heirin temple19

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heirin temple21

heirin temple23

Hibarigaoka is a famous place that was developed as a mammoth housing complex to meet the demand for new families to live during the time when Japan’s population increased explosively due to the baby boom. The housing complex is on the opposite side of the station from Heirinji Temple, but renovations have progressed and some of the former housing complexes are now being used as shops, one of which is a café that serves giant pancakes. It’s baked after you order it, so please look forward to it.

hibarigaoka housing complex and cafe

cafe1 renovation of old appartment

cafe2

cafe3 comma cafe

cafe4 hotcake

cafe5

2023-11-072023-11-07

Autumn Chichibu Golden Course, Nagatoro and Tsukinoishi Momiji Park

Chichibu is a place where you can see that the ocean floor strata have sunk beneath the Japanese archipelago due to the mantle, and have come to the surface. The limestone from Mt. Buko, which is still being scraped away, was a concrete material that supported Japan’s period of high economic growth, but it originally came from coral reefs in the Pacific Ocean.

nagatoro2 legs holding on — legs holding on crystalline schist

Nagatoro’s rock tatami is made of crystalline schist, which forms thin horizontal cracks (like puff pastry) when the pressure on the rock that was buried deep underground is released.

nagatoro3 left

nagatoro4 right

nagatoro6 left

nagatoro7 right

nagatoro9

nagatoro8

nagatoro5 rever rafting

“Tsukinoishi Momiji Park” is literally translated in English to “moon stone and maple park.” “Moon stone! ” Does this indecates the first one collected by Apollo and exhibited at the Osaka Expo 1970 ? That’s what you could think. It’s confusing because it’s said to have been named after the phrase “moon stone” that appears in a haiku written by a Meiji haiku poet. Maple trees grow in clusters on the west bank of the Arakawa River that runs through Chichibu, so when you come up from the river, you can see the red leaves of the maple trees shining in the clear setting sun.

maple park2 stone on the moon

maple park1

maple park3

maple park4

maple park5

maple park7 kami-nagatoro station

nagatoro from bridge

2023-11-052023-11-07

A detour in the middle of autumn: Marshal Togo in Koma Valley

When you get off at Agano Station, you will see the station plaza, which is not very popular for sightseeing. Following a group of energetic elderly people who have finished their warm-up exercise in front of the station, we follow the group up and down the narrow cliff-top path and mountain path along the railroad tracks until we arrive at the entrance to Togo Park.

seibu railway agano station

seibu railway walk along rail1

seibu railway walk along rail2

chichibu mitake shrine entrance

chichibu mitake shrine3 black cat

chichibu mitake shrine2 cosmos

Chichibu Mitake Shrine and Togo Park coexist there. A little further up, you will see a blanket of bright autumn leaves surrounding the bronze statue of Marshal Togo. From there, the autumn leaves continue all the way to the mountain.

Along the way, the actual deck of the battleship Mikasa, which was the flagship during the Russo-Japanese War, is on display, with many holes punched by cannonballs. This is also the shrine that deified Mr. Togo Heihachiro, who defeated the Russian fleet.

togo park4 deck of battleship Mikasa in Japan-Russia war

At the top of the stone steps, you will reach the main hall of the shrine, but it can be flinching to climb up such a steep slope. You can enjoy the autumn leaves without even climbing. I have never seen a mountain so bright red during the autumn leaves.

togo park6

togo park5

togo park7 long stairs

togo park8 chichibu mitake shrine

togo park8 view

togo park9

togo park10

togo park11

By the way, there are many names of places near the mountains of Saitama Prefecture that are reminiscent of Korea. It is said to have originated during the Nara period in Japan, when people who fled from Goguryeo, which had been destroyed by the Tang Dynasty, were given a place to settle from the goverment. This kind of history is not learned in Japanese history. There has been a lot of exchange with the mainland since ancient times.

(*)There is a road that goes into the mountain along the railway from the Agano mining site. Believe in yourself and move on.

Goal to Chichibu (detail of Soba restaurant “Nagomi”)

The only way to get to Nagomi is to walk 20 minutes along a mountain path from Bushu Hino Station on the Chichibu Railway. However, it is a soba restaurant that is worth the walk. The restaurant serves only 50 meals a day, and for the first meal, the owner gets to sample the finished product. On the way, I don’t think I’m the only one who gets surprised when someone calls out to me, “It’s dangerous,” when I cross an unmanned railroad crossing. Who is that voice?