He’s being promoted as Japan’s Michelangelo, but when someone suddenly mentions Michelangelo, it doesn’t immediately ring a bell. He is Ishikawa Uncho. When you search for Michelangelo’s representative works, the results are his sculpture of David, the Sistine Chapel’s Creation ceiling fresco, and the Last Judgment fresco. While the 3D carvings on the transoms, carved from both sides, and the carvings covering the entire ceiling of the memorial hall certainly bear some resemblance to Michelangelo’s masterpieces, the more precise depictions evoke Ito Jakuchu, and the splashing waves suggest an homage to Katsushika Hokusai.
Eirinji Temple
In the central part of the temple’s main hall, a seductive celestial maiden playing a musical instrument is carved into the transom. However, on the other side of the transom, which is only visible to the head priest, the naked back of the celestial maiden is carved. You won’t find a temple like this anywhere else in Japan. The transoms also feature carvings depicting stories and peacocks that devour the poisons of the world. It would be fun to attend a boring Buddhist memorial service at a temple like this.
Saifukuji Temple
Beside the few steps leading up to the memorial hall stand Nioh statues that resemble David, but whose faces are undeniably anime-like. And once you reach the top of the stairs, you are so overwhelmed by the gigantic sculptures covering the entire ceiling, which seem within reach, that you don’t even have time to look at the memorial tablets.
YoshidayThe scene depicts Zen Master Dogen, nearly attacked by a tiger, summoning a dragon with a thrown stick (this part somehow reminds me of Pokémon), with an eagle observing the scene, carp swimming upstream against a waterfall, and small birds flapping their wings on the cliff face. However, various other animals are scattered among the sculptures, and the level of detail is so exquisite that you’ll want to lie down in the memorial hall and examine it closely. You shouldn’t actually lie down on it.
There is also another sculpture, though uncolored, depicting a figure copying scriptures at a long table, but incorporating perspective. Furthermore, the front of the memorial hall building is adorned with intricate carvings. I was able to photograph these, but photography is prohibited inside. For more details, please purchase the photo book. Incidentally, the interior photos in this blog are from the tourist association’s brochure.
Detour
Yoshidaya‘s “Cookie Choux” is popular for its freshly baked, crispy pastry and smooth, light custard cream filling. In addition to Western-style sweets, they also have a wide selection of Japanese sweets. Yoshidaya is located in the shopping street just before crossing the Uonogawa River, on the way from Echigo-Horinouchi Station to Eirinji Temple.
