A massive wooden house built to withstand the snow

watanabe house (1)

Why does Niigata have such huge wooden houses—especially considering they have to withstand heavy, wet snow in winter?    Furthermore, the gardens surrounding the residences possess a blend of elegance and grandeur that rivals—or even surpasses—those of Kyoto.     A prime example of this is the Watanabe Residence in Sekikawa Village.

The first head of the family served as a district magistrate for the Murakami Domain—handling duties such as tax collection, the administration of the peasantry, judicial and police functions, and local inspections.     After retiring and moving to the current location, he amassed a fortune by launching businesses in sectors such as sake brewing and finance; he also provided financial assistance to the neighboring Yonezawa Domain and enjoyed a close relationship with Uesugi Yōzan.     It is said that at its peak, forty servants lived on the premises.     It also posses six large storehouses.     What is truly astonishing is the vast open space that unfolds upon entering: a wide earthen-floored area where carts could roll straight in from the street, and a raised wooden-floored hall from which cargo inspections could be conducted.     It is vast enough to easily accommodate an entire gymnasium.

As for its exterior, the building features a roofing style known as *ishi-oki koba-buki*—designed to withstand the region’s harsh winters characterized by heavy snowfall and strong winds—in which cedar shingles are laid across the roof and weighted down by approximately 15,000 cobblestones.

The interior features beams exceeding 10 meters in length, constructed by interlocking cut ends without the use of nails.     The repair methods employed during the major restoration work carried out in the Heisei era are reminiscent of a mechanical puzzle box.    I highly recommend hiring an on-site guide to hear detailed explanations.

Now, the reason I took an interest in the Watanabe Residence is that, about twenty years ago—and the show has been rebroadcast several times since—NHK aired a drama titled *Kura* (The Storehouse), and this location served as the filming site.    While the word “kura” (storehouse) might evoke an image of confinement, the story depicts a protagonist—the daughter and heir of a wealthy landowner—who loses her sight to illness in childhood.     Amidst a family tragedy where the landowner fails to produce a male heir and sons born to his concubines die one after another, she grows into a strong, resilient woman.     Defying the conventions of the era, she becomes a female *kuramoto* (sake brewery owner), effectively breaking free from the confines of the storehouse.     It is deeply moving to realize that this is the actual filming location—the very place where that breathtaking, vast space seen on the program exists.

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The wisdom of the Murakami Domain in managing the salmon returning to the river

salmon house and dishes (4) shop inside

Since the era of the Murakami Domain in the Edo period, salmon resource management has been practiced with a focus on the fish’s homing behavior.    Salmon were also utilized as preserved food and reportedly helped support the domain’s finances.    Consequently, there is a culture of fully enjoying the entire salmon, leaving no part to waste.     At the long-established shop “Kikkawa,” various parts of the fish are prepared and sold; additionally, at their separate restaurant, lunches can savor a full-course salmon meal while learning about the different preparation methods.

It is surprising to discover such a wide variety of ways to enjoy salmon—a fish that, until now, I had only ever seen served as a slice grilled salmon right in the center of a traditional ryokan(Japaese inn) breakfast tray.

Located at the northern edge of Niigata Prefecture, Murakami City is cut off from neighboring Yamagata Prefecture by steep coastal mountains; consequently, its townscape retains a strong atmosphere of the Edo period, featuring merchant houses and samurai residences from its days as a castle town.     The “Black Wall Street” along Anzen-koji Lane is a particularly charming place for a stroll—an activity best enjoyed after savoring the local salmon cuisine.

In May, local merchants, temples, and private households open their prized gardens—nurtured with great care—to the public free of charge.     These are not merely displays of plants left to grow wild; the very fact that these gardens are open for others to view implies a significant investment of time, effort, and money in their maintenance.     City dwellers who grow plants only in pots likely cannot fully appreciate the magnitude of that undertaking.

 

Detour (Fusaiji temple Garden)

Fusai-ji Temple is located more or less than a ten-minute drive north of downtown Murakami.     A magnificent garden has been created by incorporating the steep slope behind the temple grounds.     While there is a special period in May when the garden is fully open to the public, it remains accessible year-round.

Panoramic View of garden

Visitors can also hike up the hill behind the temple, which offers a splendid view of the surrounding rural landscape.

No specific fee is set on the entrance, so please offer a donation based on what you feel is appropriate.     I consider maintaining this garden to be a form of spiritual practice, in a sense.

 

 

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The Fox’s Wedding

tsugawa (3) A Fox's Wedding

Many municipalities across Japan organize “Fox Wedding Processions” as tourist attractions—recruiting a bride and groom to reenact this traditional supernatural phenomenon—and claim to be the original home of the custom.    Among them, the Fox Wedding in Tsugawa is the oldest, with roots dating back to classical literature.

These eerie phenomena fall broadly into two categories: “countless mysterious lights” that could easily be mistaken for a swarm of paper lanterns, and “sunshowers”—rain falling while the sun is shining.     Both types are associated with foxes—creatures said to possess the power to bewitch humans—but the phenomenon in Tsugawa belongs to the former category; it is said that mysterious lights appear at night on Mt. Kirin, located on the opposite bank of the Agano River, which flows beside the town.    The event, which draws large crowds, takes place over a weekend in June and continues into the night.     During the weekend, a steam locomotive runs along the line connecting to Aizu, located in the upper reaches of the Agano River.

The reason there are so many shops in this town specializing in fermented foods lies in Tsugawa’s geographical location.     During the Edo period, the primary mode of transport involved *Kitamae-bune* (merchant ships) that navigated the relatively calm Sea of ​​Japan coast rather than the Pacific side.

The Agano River flows wide and calm as far as Tsugawa, making it navigable for transporting materials; at this point, goods were transferred to horses for delivery to or shipment out of Aizu.     The combination of seafood and salt brought from Niigata and rice arriving from Aizu gave rise to the production of *koji*-based foods in Tsugawa.    The miso purchased at Yamazaki Koji-ya lacks any harshness—offering instead a natural sweetness—and transcends the ordinary concept of miso.

This area is also said to be the birthplace of the *gangi*—wide, arcade-like eaves extending from shopfronts over the street—which were created in snow-prone Niigata to allow people to move about on snow-covered roads.   Isabella Bird, who traveled through Japan’s remote interior during the early Meiji era, also noted their existence in her travelogue.

She reportedly described the Agano River—which widens significantly starting at Tsugawa—as resembling the Rhine.     Perhaps she likened the sheer cliffs of Mount Kirin in Tsugawa to the Lorelei Rock; then again, one might easily sail right past the actual Lorelei Rock without even noticing it, were it not for the announcements made on board.    Indeed, so many tourists look around restlessly when the announcement is made.     The Lorelei Rock is counted among the world’s “three major disappointments“; the other two include the Little Mermaid statue in Copenhagen—where an industrial zone is visible on the opposite shore—and the Manneken Pis in Brussels, which, despite being right next to the central Grand Place, is so small that one might easily walk right past it without noticing.    If the Manneken Pis were huge, it would just look like an adult urinating while standing, so perhaps it couldn’t be helped.

Detour 1 (Huge ceder)

Near the town of Tsugawa stands the Shogun Sugi, a cedar certified by the Ministry of the Environment as the largest in Japan—surpassing even the famous Jomon Sugi of Yakushima.     Its trunk circumference is said to be approximately 20 meters, though it is unclear exactly where that measurement is taken.    On the other hand, people cheat on where they measure to make their waists look slimmer.     Although the main trunk has fallen, multiple branched trunks surrounding it rise up together, towering high toward the sky.     With an estimated age of 1,400 years, it dates back to the time when Prince Shotoku was alive.     Incidentally, the name “Shogun” (General) is derived from the military commander who subjugated the Tohoku region during the Heian period.

Detour 2 (Roof tiles)

While tourist destinations showcasing pottery-producing regions can be found all over Japan, it is rare to find a place like Aga City that promotes factories manufacturing roof tiles as a tourism asset.     These factories are clustered where the Agano River emerges onto the plains, forming a walking path known as “Kawara Road” (Tile Road).    While there are facilities like a bus stop house and restrooms made entirely of roof tiles, as well as a cafeteria featuring tile-based plates, the display that allows visitors to take photos of themselves appearing to sit atop a tiled roof is sure to be a hit on Instagram.    However, since roof tiles aren’t exactly the sort of thing people buy as souvenirs, a bit of creative ingenuity is required.

Because the region experiences heavy snowfall, the roof tiles used there must offer excellent thermal insulation and cold resistance; made from iron-rich clay, they fire into a distinctive lead-gray color.     In recent years, however, modern Japanese homes have shifted toward lighter structural materials to reduce construction costs, leading to a move away from traditional tiles in favor of slate roofing—making beautiful tiled roofs an increasingly rare sight in urban areas.     A factory belonging to Yasuda Yogurt—famous for its dairy products—is located right next to the tile factory.

Today’s INN (Seiko-kan)

Despite being located in an area with such heavy snowfall, the building is a three-story wooden structure and itself Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property, so the masterful skills of the carpenters remain in many places.     It is a long-established inn featuring a radon hot spring—a rarity even on a national scale.     Breathe in the radon-rich air and revitalize yourself.     The meals are delicious, too, featuring primarily local ingredients.

 

 

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I let my guard down with Shibata at first, thinking there was nothing worth seeing

zohshunkaku
shibata town walking (3)
shibata town walking (3)

This town is home to one of Japan’s three great iris gardens and features castle ruins at its center, with the town itself laid out in concentric circles around them; as for the feudal lord’s garden—Shimizu-en—it struck me as familiar, and indeed, it bears a striking resemblance to Kyoto’s Koke-dera (Saiho-ji).    Whether the town’s promotional efforts were lacking or I simply failed to spot them myself, a little research revealed that there were plenty of other highlights to see.

Zoshunkaku, a building originally constructed in Tokyo’s Shitamachi (i.e.downtown) district by the prominent industrialist Kihachiro Okura—a native of this town—has been relocated here.    Mr. Okura was the founder of numerous major corporations that endure to this day, including what is now known as Taisei Construction  Corporation.     This construction company was responsible for building a palace for Emperor Meiji; Zoshunkaku was constructed using the same techniques to serve as a state guest house for entertaining figures from the political and business worlds.    It features a blend of Japanese and Western styles, yet the design of the second-story roof—reminiscent of a festival float—exudes a sense of grandeur.     The interior is also exquisitely crafted, so captivating that one loses all track of time.    Cakes and drinks are served inside.     I made a special stop at the shop providing the same cakes—a long-established store near the castle called Yamanobe Confectionery—and found a wide array of options, particularly rolled cakes, which made choosing quite a dilemma.

Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town.     Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing.     The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.

Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town. Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing. The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.

My expectations for the town of Shibata were completely—and pleasantly—surpassed.

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