Introduction
What exactly is a *gata* (lagoon) in Niigata? I found an old map at the inn where I stayed, showing that most of the Niigata Plain was once underwater. Sea reclamation left lagoons as remnants of lakes and marshes, a feat that required effort to expand arable land. Today, they serve as excellent spots for birdwatching.
True to its reputation as a major rice-producing region, beautiful rice paddies stretch out endlessly wherever you go. While Niigata City has served as the administrative hub since the Meiji era, historically, the name “Echigo” was synonymous with Uesugi Kenshin—whose power base was centered in Joetsu City, located at the far western edge of the prefecture. This trip takes me to the Ka-etsu region—located east or north of Niigata City—where I will visit the territories of the Shibata and Murakami domains, both of which date back to the Edo period.

Once you return to Niigata City, try going up to the observation deck on the top floor of Toki Messe, a high-rise building next to the port. You can enjoy a free 360-degree view of the Niigata Plain. After leaving Toki Messe, why not have some sushi at “Minato no Marche Pia Bandai,” which features a food court? The prices are comparable to standard conveyor-belt sushi restaurants, but the quality is so high that you simply won’t find the same level at famous nationwide sushi chains.

Detail (under construction)
1st day (Shibata domain)
I let my guard down with Shibata at first, thinking there was nothing worth seeing

The Fox’s Wedding

2nd day (Murakami domain)
The wisdom of the Murakami Domain in managing the salmon returning to the river

A massive wooden house built to withstand the snow

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