Since the era of the Murakami Domain in the Edo period, salmon resource management has been practiced with a focus on the fish’s homing behavior. Salmon were also utilized as preserved food and reportedly helped support the domain’s finances. Consequently, there is a culture of fully enjoying the entire salmon, leaving no part to waste. At the long-established shop “Kikkawa,” various parts of the fish are prepared and sold; additionally, at their separate restaurant, lunches can savor a full-course salmon meal while learning about the different preparation methods.
It is surprising to discover such a wide variety of ways to enjoy salmon—a fish that, until now, I had only ever seen served as a slice grilled salmon right in the center of a traditional ryokan(Japaese inn) breakfast tray.
Located at the northern edge of Niigata Prefecture, Murakami City is cut off from neighboring Yamagata Prefecture by steep coastal mountains; consequently, its townscape retains a strong atmosphere of the Edo period, featuring merchant houses and samurai residences from its days as a castle town. The “Black Wall Street” along Anzen-koji Lane is a particularly charming place for a stroll—an activity best enjoyed after savoring the local salmon cuisine.
In May, local merchants, temples, and private households open their prized gardens—nurtured with great care—to the public free of charge. These are not merely displays of plants left to grow wild; the very fact that these gardens are open for others to view implies a significant investment of time, effort, and money in their maintenance. City dwellers who grow plants only in pots likely cannot fully appreciate the magnitude of that undertaking.
Detour (Fusaiji temple Garden)
Fusai-ji Temple is located more or less than a ten-minute drive north of downtown Murakami. A magnificent garden has been created by incorporating the steep slope behind the temple grounds. While there is a special period in May when the garden is fully open to the public, it remains accessible year-round.
Panoramic View of garden
Visitors can also hike up the hill behind the temple, which offers a splendid view of the surrounding rural landscape.
No specific fee is set on the entrance, so please offer a donation based on what you feel is appropriate. I consider maintaining this garden to be a form of spiritual practice, in a sense.
