I let my guard down with Shibata at first, thinking there was nothing worth seeing

zohshunkaku
shibata town walking (3)
shibata town walking (3)

This town is home to one of Japan’s three great iris gardens and features castle ruins at its center, with the town itself laid out in concentric circles around them; as for the feudal lord’s garden—Shimizu-en—it struck me as familiar, and indeed, it bears a striking resemblance to Kyoto’s Koke-dera (Saiho-ji).    Whether the town’s promotional efforts were lacking or I simply failed to spot them myself, a little research revealed that there were plenty of other highlights to see.

Zoshunkaku, a building originally constructed in Tokyo’s Shitamachi (i.e.downtown) district by the prominent industrialist Kihachiro Okura—a native of this town—has been relocated here.    Mr. Okura was the founder of numerous major corporations that endure to this day, including what is now known as Taisei Construction  Corporation.     This construction company was responsible for building a palace for Emperor Meiji; Zoshunkaku was constructed using the same techniques to serve as a state guest house for entertaining figures from the political and business worlds.    It features a blend of Japanese and Western styles, yet the design of the second-story roof—reminiscent of a festival float—exudes a sense of grandeur.     The interior is also exquisitely crafted, so captivating that one loses all track of time.    Cakes and drinks are served inside.     I made a special stop at the shop providing the same cakes—a long-established store near the castle called Yamanobe Confectionery—and found a wide array of options, particularly rolled cakes, which made choosing quite a dilemma.

Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town.     Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing.     The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.

Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town. Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing. The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.

My expectations for the town of Shibata were completely—and pleasantly—surpassed.

asahi mountain range with rice field (2)
go back to itinerary

 

Hokoji, the family temple of the Yasuda clan, the true driving force behind the Genpei War

houkoji (1) gate
houkoji (2) left UN state
houkoji (2) left UN state

Before the Takeda family ruled Kai, the Yasuda family, which was descended from the Genji clan, ruled Kai.    He fought as the main force of the Genji clan in the Genpei War at the end of Heian period, and built Hokoji Temple to celebrate the victory at Ichinotani, where Minamoto no Yoshitsune was said to be the most active person to victory against Heike clan.    The Yasuda clan had ambitions to open a Buddhist city in Kai, following the example of Hiraizumi in Oshu(Tohoku region), and for this reason, there is still a wealth of cultural assets such as Buddhist statues.

houkoji (3)right A statue
houkoji (3)right A statue

The Bishamonten statue, which depicts the face of Yoshisada Yasuda at his peak, has a war helmet(Kabuto) on his head.    The statue of Aizen Myoo holding a bow is said to be the oldest in Japan.    The similar one at Jindoji Temple in Kyoto has some rough edges, but this one has a neat form.    Later, the Yasuda family was suspected of rebellion by Minamoto no Yoritomo, who was highly suspicious, and the Yasuda family was destroyed.    The Kamakura period was a history of slaughter between allies.

 

houkoji (4)
Hojo at houkoji temple

Detour

Delicious lunch using sake lees provided by a sake brewery “Kai”

sake brewery kai (4)
lunch menu at sake brewery “kai”

The word “kai” in the name of the sake brewery has the same pronunciation as the name of the region, but it also refers to the important tool used to mix ingredients in sake brewing.    The restaurant is full of women who are looking for delicious food, probably anywhere in the world.

There is Kubo-Hachiman Shrine nearby, and the torii gate here is made of wood and is the oldest in Japan.    However, it was surprising to see a normal road passing under it, and a large number of cars passing through it.    It was solicited from Usa Jingu Shrine in Oita Prefecture, and since it is Hachiman Shrine, it is the god of military fortune and is also the guardian deity of the Takeda family.

erinji (10) letters written on military flag
Go back to itinerary