I let my guard down with Shibata at first, thinking there was nothing worth seeing

zohshunkaku
shibata town walking (3)
shibata town walking (3)

This town is home to one of Japan’s three great iris gardens and features castle ruins at its center, with the town itself laid out in concentric circles around them; as for the feudal lord’s garden—Shimizu-en—it struck me as familiar, and indeed, it bears a striking resemblance to Kyoto’s Koke-dera (Saiho-ji).    Whether the town’s promotional efforts were lacking or I simply failed to spot them myself, a little research revealed that there were plenty of other highlights to see.

Zoshunkaku, a building originally constructed in Tokyo’s Shitamachi (i.e.downtown) district by the prominent industrialist Kihachiro Okura—a native of this town—has been relocated here.    Mr. Okura was the founder of numerous major corporations that endure to this day, including what is now known as Taisei Construction  Corporation.     This construction company was responsible for building a palace for Emperor Meiji; Zoshunkaku was constructed using the same techniques to serve as a state guest house for entertaining figures from the political and business worlds.    It features a blend of Japanese and Western styles, yet the design of the second-story roof—reminiscent of a festival float—exudes a sense of grandeur.     The interior is also exquisitely crafted, so captivating that one loses all track of time.    Cakes and drinks are served inside.     I made a special stop at the shop providing the same cakes—a long-established store near the castle called Yamanobe Confectionery—and found a wide array of options, particularly rolled cakes, which made choosing quite a dilemma.

Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town.     Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing.     The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.

Returning to the town, one finds an area where temples are clustered together—likely for defensive purposes—and a walking path has been laid out along the waterways that run through this section of town. Hokoji is a temple of historical significance housing the graves of the lords of the Shibata Domain; its main gate is remarkably imposing. The temple grounds feature a cloister-style layout typical of the Soto sect, allowing visitors to stroll freely.

My expectations for the town of Shibata were completely—and pleasantly—surpassed.

asahi mountain range with rice field (2)
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Japanese hotel that makes you feel like you’re in a Kyoto garden

yakakutei2 welcome

I have rarely stayed in such a luxurious inn, Yakakutei.    I would definitely recommend this place to foreign visitors who are taking advantage of the weak yen.   The garden, surrounded by a cloister and covered with shrubs and moss, is beautifully maintained.    A gazebo for viewing the garden faces the courtyard, but it is carved into a lower level than the courtyard, so that the moss garden can be viewed at eye level.

The rock bath hot spring is also located on a vast site, with rocks arranged like a garden, and the hot water is filled to the brim.    Of particular note is the ingenious and creative menu for dinner.   The plates on which the dishes are served are also excellent.    Unusually, the appetizers (similar to an assorted antipasto in Italian cuisine) that usually precede the main dish are served last.    Perhaps this is to avoid eating the appetizer too slowly and being too full by the time the main dish is served?    The waiter was a man dressed as a butler in a crested hakama, which reminded me a bit of a male version of a maid cafe in Akihabara, and that was the only thing that felt a bit strange.

Detour

If you climb the outer rim of the caldera behind the inn, you will soon arrive at Kagoshima Airport, but before checking in, it is worth stopping by Kareigawa Station, with its nostalgic wooden station building, Inukai Falls carved into the cliff, and Shiohitashi Onsen, where Sakamoto Ryoma and his wife, Oryo, were invited by the Satsuma clan to heal the wounds he received when he was nearly assassinated in Kyoto, and where he stopped on his honeymoon.

former shrine2
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